Vintage Modern Knits
Page 3
Shape Raglan
Note: Neck shaping is introduced as raglan decreases are worked; read all the way through the foll section before proceeding.
With RS facing, BO 4 sts, knit to end—31 (35, 39, 43) sts rem.
RAGLAN DEC ROW: (WS) Purl to last 5 sts, ssp (see Glossary), k1, p1, k1—1 st dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they appear.
Rep the last 2 rows 19 (21, 23, 27) more times and at the same time beg on the first (second, second, second) raglan dec row, dec for neck as foll:
NECK DEC ROW: (WS) P1, p2tog, work to end of row—1 st dec’d at neck.
Beaver
Large Leaf
Small Leaf
Triangles
Cont to work raglan decs as established, dec 1 st at neck edge in this manner every 6th row 5 (5, 7, 7) more times—5 (7, 7, 7) sts rem when all neck and raglan shaping is complete. Cont for your size as foll.
Size 36" (91.5 cm) only
NEXT ROW: (WS) P1, p3tog, p1—3 sts rem.
Knit 1 row. Place sts on holder.
Sizes 38½ (43, 47)" (98 [109, 119.5] cm)only
NEXT ROW: (WS) P1, p3tog, k1, p1, k1—5 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they appear.
NEXT ROW: P1, p3tog, p1—3 sts rem.
Knit 1 row. Place sts on holder.
Right Front
With CC1 and smaller straight needles, CO 35 (39, 43, 47) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) K3, *p2, k2; rep from *.
ROW 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.
Rep these 2 rows 9 more times—piece measures about 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO. Change to larger needles and MC. Beg with a RS row, work 4 (4, 4, 6) rows in St st.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K2 (3, 5, 7) with MC, *work 15 sts according to Row 1 of Small Leaf chart, k1 (3, 3, 3) with MC; rep from * once more, k1 (0, 2, 4) with MC.
Work as established through Row 16 of chart. Work 2 rows with MC. Beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart. Work 2 rows with CC3.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K3 (5, 7, 9) with CC3, work 30 sts according to Row 1 of Beaver chart, reading from right to left, k2 (4, 6, 8) with CC3.
Work as established through Row 27 of chart. Work 2 rows with CC3. Beg with a WS row and beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Rows 1–6 of Triangles chart, reading from top to bottom to reverse patt. Change to MC and work even in St st until piece measures same length as back to underarm, ending with a RS row.
Shape Raglan
Note: Neck shaping is introduced as raglan decreases are worked; read all the way through the foll section before proceeding.
With WS facing, BO 4 sts, purl to end—31 (35, 39, 43) sts rem.
RAGLAN DEC ROW: (RS) Knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, p1, k1, p1—1 st dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they appear.
Rep the last 2 rows 19 (21, 23, 27) more times and at the same time beg on the first (second, second, second) raglan dec row, dec for neck as foll:
NECK DEC ROW: (RS) K1, ssk, work to end of row—1 st dec’d at neck.
Cont to work raglan decs as established, dec 1 st at neck edge in this manner every 6th row 5 (5, 7, 7) more times—5 (7, 7, 7) sts rem when all neck and raglan shaping is complete. Cont for your size as foll.
Size 36" (91.5 cm) only
NEXT ROW: (RS) K1, k3tog, k1—3 sts rem.
Purl 1 row. Place sts on holder.
Sizes 38½ (43, 47)" (98 [109, 119.5] cm) only
NEXT ROW: (RS) K1, k3tog, p1, k1, p1—5 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they appear.
NEXT ROW: K1, k3tog, k1—3 sts rem.
Purl 1 row. Place sts on holder.
Sleeves
With CC1 and smaller straight needles, CO 42 (42, 42, 46) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from *.
ROW 2: P2, *k2, p2; rep from *.
Rep these 2 rows 8 more times—18 rows total. Change to larger needles and MC. Beg with a knit row, work 6 rows in St st.
INC ROW: (RS) K1f&b (see Glossary), knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Work 5 rows even in St st. Rep the last 6 rows 8 (11, 14, 14) more times—60 (66, 72, 76) sts. Work even in St st until piece measures 17 (17, 17½, 18)" (43 [43, 44.5, 45.5] cm) from CO or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows—52 (58, 64, 68) sts rem.
DEC ROW: (RS) P1, k1, p1, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, p1, k1, p1—2 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW: Work sts as they appear.
Rep the last 2 rows 20 (23, 26, 28) more times—10 sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use the mattress st (see Glossary) to sew sleeve tops to front and back, aligning raglan decs and easing along raglan line. Sew sleeve and side seams.
Collar and Buttonband
With CC1, smaller cir needle, and RS facing, pick up and knit 70 (74, 79, 84) sts along center right front to neck shaping, place marker (pm), 30 (31, 35, 40) sts along neck shaping, k3 held right front sts, k10 held right sleeve sts, k33 (35, 41, 42) held back sts and at the same time dec 1 (1, 1, 2) st(s) evenly spaced, k10 held left sleeve sts, k3 held left front sts, pick up and knit 30 (31, 35, 40) sts along left neck shaping, pm, and 70 (74, 79, 84) sts along center left front—258 (270, 294, 314) sts total. Slip markers when you come to them.
ROW 1: (WS) *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
ROWS 2 AND 3: Work in rib as established.
Work short-rows for collar as foll:
SHORT-ROW 1: (RS) Work in rib as established to 4 sts before 2nd m, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 2: (WS) Work in rib as established to 4 sts before next m, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 3: Work in rib to 6 sts before last wrapped st, wrap next st, turn work.
Rep the last row 7 more times—5 wrapped sts each side.
NEXT 2 ROWS: Work to end of row, working wraps tog with wrapped sts.
Work 4 more rows in rib as established.
NEXT ROW: (RS; buttonhole row) K2, p2, *BO 2 sts, work 18 sts in patt; rep from * 3 more times, work to end in rib as established.
NEXT ROW: (WS; complete buttonholes) Work in rib as established and use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts over each BO gap on the previous row.
Work 6 more rows in rib as established.
With larger needle, loosely BO all sts in patt.
Sew buttons to left front opposite buttonholes. Weave in loose ends.
Whitby Stockings
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
Named for a fishing village located on the north Yorkshire coast of England, these stockings remind me of paintings of “flither pickers” or “flithergirls” who sold limpets (small shellfish) to fishermen for bait near the turn of the twentieth century. Doubtless these young women wore their own knitted stockings, and while their stockings may have been knitted in undyed homespun, these Whitby Stockings feature stripes and small peerie patterns inspired by the Fair Isle sweaters of the northern islands. Knitted in earthy, muted colors similar to those attained through natural dyes, these extra-long stockings are designed to be shown off with a skirt or pair of cropped pants—just right for a cold wet day on the coast.
Materials
yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): laguna (green; MC), 2 skeins; wild ginger (tan; CC1) and acai (coral; CC2), 1 skein each.
needles
leg and foot: size U.S. 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
ribbing: size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle.
gauge
34 stitches and 40 rounds
= 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 8" (20.5 cm) foot circumference and 10" (25.5 cm) foot length from back of heel to tip of toe. To fit woman’s U.S. shoe sizes 8–9.
Note
•Except for the ribbing and one purl stitch, the socks are knitted in stockinette stitch. The purl stitch, which marks the beginning of the round, is at the center back of the leg.
Jogless Stripes
A downfall of knitting stripes in the round in that there is a jog in the color bands when one round transitions to the next. You can create a more even transition from one color to the next by working the first stitch together with the stitch in the row below on the second round of each new color.
STEP 1. Knit 1 round with the new color.
STEP 2. At the beginning of the next round, insert the right needle tip into the right leg (Figure 1) of the stitch in the row below the first stitch of the round (the old color) and place this stitch on the left-hand needle (Figure 2).
STEP 3. Knit this lifted stitch together with the first stitch of the round to raise the color of the previous round to the height of the new round.
figure 1
figure 2
Leg
With MC and smaller dpn, CO 96 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work in p1, k1 rib until piece measures 2½" (6.5 cm) from CO. Change to larger dpn.
INC RND: Slip marker (sl m), p1, pm, M1 (see Mirrored Increases), knit to end of rnd—97 sts.
Always purling the first st of the rnd, work rem 96 sts in St st for 12 rnds.
Working the purl st in the background color, cont as foll:
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart A between m. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds.
DEC RND: P1, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Knit 4 rnds. Rep dec rnd—93 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds—piece measures about 6" (15 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart B between m as before. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds. Rep dec rnd—91 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds.
Rep dec rnd—89 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds. Rep dec rnd—87 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds—piece measures about 8½" (21.5 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart C between m as before. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds. Rep dec rnd—85 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds. Rep dec rnd—83 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds. Rep dec rnd—81 sts rem. Knit 2 rnds—piece measures about 10¾" (27.5 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart D between m as before. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds. Rep dec rnd—79 sts rem. Knit 4 rnds. Rep dec rnd—77 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds—piece measures about 13" (33 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart E between m as before. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds. Rep dec rnd—75 sts rem. Knit 4 rnds. Rep dec rnd—73 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds—piece measures about 15¼" (38.5 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart F between m as before. Change to MC and knit 3 rnds. Rep dec rnd—71 sts rem. Knit 4 rnds. Rep dec rnd—69 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds—piece measures about 17½" (44.5 cm) from CO.
Work Rows 1–11 of Chart G between m as before. Change to MC and knit 5 rnds.
NEXT RND: Sl m, k1, remove m, k2tog, knit to last 17 sts, change to CC2, knit to end of rnd—68 sts rem; piece measures about 19¼" (49 cm) from CO. Remove m.
Chart A
Chart B
Chart C
Chart D
Chart E
Chart F
Chart G
Heel
Divide for heel as foll: K17, turn work. Place 34 CC2 sts onto one needle for heel; rem 34 sts will be worked later for instep.
Heel Flap
Work 34 heel sts back and forth in rows as foll:
ROW 1: (WS) Sl 1, p33.
ROW 2: (RS) Sl 1, k33.
Rep these 2 rows 15 more times, then work Row 1 once more—33 rows total.
Shape Heel
Work short-rows as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) Sl 1, k21, ssk, turn work.
ROW 2: (WS) Sl 1, p10, p2tog, turn work.
ROW 3: Sl 1, k10, ssk, turn work.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 nine more times, then work Row 2 once more—12 heel sts rem.
Gussets
JOINING RND: Sl 1, knit to end of heel sts with CC2, change to MC and pick up and knit 17 sts along selvedge edge of heel flap, pm, k34 held instep sts, pm, pick up and knit 17 sts along other selvedge edge of heel flap, knit the first 6 heel sts again, pm to denote beg of rnd—80 sts total.
RND 1: Knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, k34 instep sts, k1, ssk, knit to end of rnd—2 sts dec’d.
RND 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds 5 more times—68 sts rem.
Foot
With MC, work even until piece measures 7½" (19 cm) from back of heel, or 2½" (6.5 cm) less than desired finished length.
Toe
Change to CC2 and dec as foll:
RND 1: Knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to end of rnd—4 sts dec’d.
RND 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds 11 more times—20 sts rem. Knit to first m. Cut yarn, leaving a 10" (25.5 cm) tail.
Finishing
Place 10 sts between m onto one needle and 10 rem sts onto another needle. Thread tail on a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft rem sts tog. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.
Cady Twisted-Stitch Mittens
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
The two-end knitting technique, known as twined knitting or tvåändsstickning, is created when two strands of the same color are alternated stitch by stitch. Common theory is that twined knitting originated in Sweden, perhaps as far back as 1680, to produce a strong, warm fabric that could withstand hard wear during the long winters. These mittens are worked in a variation of the traditional technique in which the two strands are worked Fair Isle fashion with one yarn always carried on top of the other in the back of the work. Beginning with a lined picot cuff, these mittens are decorated with knit and purl stitches to provide subtle texture to the design.
Materials
yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): chiclet tree, 2 skeins.
needles
Size U.S. 1½ (2.5 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Smooth cotton waste yarn for provisional cast-on; markers (m); stitch holder; tapestry needle; six " (5 mm) pearl shank buttons.
gauge
38 stitches and 34 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in charted hand pattern, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 6¼" (16 cm) hand circumference and 11½" (29 cm) long from cuff to tip of finger. These mittens are designed for a snug fit for a medium-size woman’s hand.
Technique Tips
These mittens use several specific techniques, all of which can be facilitated with a few tips.
Provisional Cast-On
Use a waste yarn of comparable gauge but smooth texture. Cotton works well for this as it does not stick to the working yarn or to itself.
Single-Color Latvian Braid
When one works a Latvian braid, the yarns get twisted around one another on the first round, then untwisted on the following round. To make this easier, loosen enough yarn from each ball to work a full round before beginning.
Knitting the Provisional Cast-On Stitches Together with the Cuff
Because the provisional cast on is folded to the inside of the work, you may find it fussy to put all of the stitches on another set of needles. To avoid this, “unzip” 5 to 10 stitches at a time, place them on a spare needle, and work them together with the live stitches.
Stranded Knitting
To facilitate working stranded knitting, designate one end to be carried on top of the other. Maintain even tension on the stranded yarn at the back of the w
ork (or in the front when working stitch patterns). When working the purled cuff pattern, make sure to bring the yarn to the back of the work before bringing the next yarn to the front.
Cuff
With waste yarn (see box at left) and using a provisional method (see Glossary), CO 56 sts. Divide sts as evenly as possible on 3 or 4 dpn. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. With MC, knit 21 rnds—piece measures about 1¾" (4.5 cm) from CO.
PICOT RND: *K2tog, yo; rep from *.
Knit 3 rnds.
INC RND: *K14, M1 (see Mirrored Increases); rep from *—60 sts.
Braid
RND 1: (see box at left) Bring yarn to front of work and join second strand of MC (designated MC2) and holding yarn in front, *p1 MC, cross MC2 over MC strand just worked, p1 MC2, cross MC over MC2 strand just worked; rep from *.