Vintage Modern Knits
Page 4
Hand and Thumb
Download the charts for this project here.
Purl Cuff
Hand
RND 2: Beg with MC, work as for Rnd 1, but cross the next strand to be worked under the strand just worked.
Work Rnds 1–13 of Purl Cuff chart. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of Braid.
Hem
With RS facing and using MC only, fold work along picot rnd, remove waste yarn from provisional CO and transfer exposed sts to spare needle (see Technique Tips in this project), *[knit first st on needle tog with first exposed CO st] 14 times, k1; rep from *.
Hand
Alternating 1 st from each ball for stranded knitting as shown on hand chart, work Rnds 1–44 of Hand and Thumb chart—88 sts. Place 29 thumb sts on waste yarn holder. Using the backward-loop method (see Glossary), CO 1 st with MC (counts as first st of rnd)—60 sts. Work Rnds 1–43 of Hand chart—4 sts rem. Cut yarns, leaving 6" (15 cm) tails. Thread tails on tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, pull tight to close hole and secure on WS.
Thumb
Distribute 29 held thumb sts evenly on 3 or 4 dpn. Join 2 balls of yarn and pick up and knit 1 st in the gap between the thumb and hand—30 sts. Pm and join for working in rnds. Work in St st stranded knitting until thumb measures about 1¼" (3.2 cm), or ¾" (2 cm) less than desired finished length.
DEC RND 1: *K4, k2tog; rep from *—25 sts rem.
DEC RND 2: *K3, k2tog; rep from *—20 sts rem.
DEC RND 3: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—15 sts rem.
DEC RND 4: *K1, k2tog; rep from *—10 sts rem.
DEC RND 5: *K2tog; rep from *—5 sts rem.
Cut yarns, leaving 6" (15 cm) tails. Thread tails on tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, pull tight to close hole and secure on WS.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Sew three buttons on each cuff as desired. Block to measurements.
Margarethe Lace Shawl
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
There are two characteristics that distinguish Faroese shawls from other triangular lace shawls—a center gore that divides two triangular sides and shoulder shaping that provides a unique butterfly-wing shape for a better fit. Typically, Faroese shawls are knitted in domestic sheep’s wool in natural colors, employing garter stitch for the main portion of the body. This updated take on tradition is knitted in a luxurious and drapey blend of alpaca, silk, camel, and cashmere for next-to-the-skin softness and incredible warmth. It begins with a garter edge, transitioning into a classic lace pattern that flanks a center lace panel. The body is worked in stockinette stitch with garter edges and the shoulders are shaped with double decreases integrated along the neck edge, rather than across the main body portion.
Materials
yarn
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 159 yd [145 m]/50 g): carnelian, 5 (7) skeins.
needles
body: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): 36" (90 cm) circular (cir).
border: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): 36" (90 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle.
gauge
22 stitches and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle, after blocking.
finished size
About 56 (66)" (142 [167.5] cm) wide at top and 27 (32)" (68.5 [81.5] cm) long, after blocking. Shawl shown in larger size.
Note
•The shawl is shaped by working additional decreases (not paired with yarnover increases) at the beginning, at each side of the center panel, and at the end of every right-side row (4 decreases total). Note that the stitch count in the main pattern repeat is always 17 stitches.
Reading Lace Charts
At first glance, many knitters find charts to be a daunting—even project-stopping—task. But charts provide a succinct way to tell the knitter what to do, and better yet, in contrast to written instructions, provide a map for exactly how the knitting should look.
Once you’ve mastered a basic understanding of the symbols, you’ll find charts to be an easy way to read lace patterns. In general, charts are always read in the same direction as you knit. Right-side rows are read from right to left; wrong-side rows are read from left to right. The symbols represent the action made on that row, as viewed from the right side of the knitting, not what is already on the needles.
The chart below is a simple 3-stitch pattern repeat that is worked over 4 rows. Written out, the instructions would read:
ROW 1: (RS) *K1, yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
ROW 2: (WS) Purl.
ROWS 3 AND 4: Rep Rows 1 and 2.
Broken down into motifs, the “yo, k2tog” pairings are aligned vertically. Although k2tog is actually worked over two stitches, the symbol only occupies one box because this action results in one stitch decreased, leaving just one stitch on the needle. Similarly, a yarnover occupies one box because it produces one new stitch. When the number of yarnovers matches the number of decreases, there is no change to the stitch count. If, as you knit this pattern, the yarnovers don’t align vertically or the number of stitches changes from row to row, you’ll know you’ve made a mistake.
Shawl
With larger needle, CO 347 (411) sts. Do not join.
Change to smaller needle and knit 8 rows, beg with a WS row—4 garter ridges.
Border
SET-UP ROW: (WS) K5, place marker (pm), k160 (192), pm, k17, pm, k160 (192), pm, k5.
Slipping markers every row and working the sts in the red rep boxes 8 (10) times, work Rows 1–46 of Lace Border chart—287 (351) sts rem; piece measures about 6¼" (16 cm) from CO.
Body
Change to larger needle.
Note: Beg with Row 7 of Center Lace Panel chart.
DEC ROW: (RS) K5, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, work 17 sts according to Center Lace Panel chart, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, k5—4 sts dec’d.
Lace Border
Downolad the chart for this project here.
Center Lace Panel
NEXT ROW: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Rep the last 2 rows 30 (37) more times—163 (199) sts rem; piece measures about 16¾ (19¼)" (42.5 [49] cm) from CO.
Decrease for Shoulders
ROW 1: K5, k3tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, work 17 sts according to Center Lace Panel chart as established, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next m, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, k5—6 sts dec’d.
ROW 2: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
ROWS 3, 5, AND 7: K5, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, work 17 sts according to Center Lace Panel chart, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, k5—4 sts dec’d each row.
ROWS 4, 6, AND 8: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Rep these 8 rows 6 (8) more times—37 sts rem; piece measures about 25½ (30½)" (65 [77.5] cm) from CO.
Shape Neck
ROW 1: K5, k2tog, k1, ssk, work 17 sts in patt as established, k2tog, k1, ssk, k5—33 sts rem.
ROW 2: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
ROW 3: K5, remove m, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, remove m, work 17 sts in patt as established, remove m, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, remove m, k5—29 sts rem.
ROW 4: K5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Join Garter-Stitch Edging To Top of Lace Panel
Work short-rows as foll:
ROW 1: (RS) K4, ssk, turn work—1 st dec’d.
ROW 2: (WS) K5, turn work.
Rep these 2 rows 16 more times—12 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: (RS) K4, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, turn work—10 sts rem.
NEXT ROW: (WS) K5.
Finishing
Place 5 sts each on 2 needles and hold the needles with RS facing tog. Use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO the sts tog. Weave in loose ends.
Soak in warm water and wool wash. Squeeze out excess water, pin flat to measurem
ents, and allow to air-dry completely.
Vintage Feminine
AS WINTER NEARS AN END, sunny afternoons begin and end with cool mornings and evenings. Tulips and daffodils slowly arise from their winter hibernation and wash the once bare landscape with bright greens, pinks, and purples to announce the arrival of spring. Outdoor activities commence—long walks to town, bike rides to the open-air market to purchase early harvests, and evening visits with friends. Heavy winter coats are stored away and lighter layers take their place to be easily removed as the sun warms the earth and then gratefully replaced as it sets.
All of the garments and accessories in this collection incorporate vintage-inspired soft hues, flowery motifs, and feminine elements to express the feeling of renewal brought by spring. Lace, embroidery, cables, and Fair Isle patterns demonstrate attention to details and vintage touches. Functional elements designed to flatter are the main focus of these projects.
Designed to look like heirlooms passed down from generations—or the best thrift store finds of the decade—these pieces require just a bit of the knitter’s concentration and effort. The tailored quality and delicate stitches pay homage to an age when all craftsmen took care to create well-made lasting items. The end result—a fitted lightweight cardigan or a fully fashioned beret, for example—is well worth every stitch.
Ginger Lace Cardigan
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
I love the look of vintage allover lace cardigans from the 1950s and 1960s, but the instructions often seem so vague. In those days, many patterns provided just a stitch repeat and instructions to “keep in pattern” while working armhole, neck, and sleeve shaping instead of writing out row-by-row instructions. It struck me one day that if I charted the increases and decreases just as I would for a shawl, I’d be able to visualize how the shaping affects the lace pattern. Suddenly, all those lace cardigans became a lot less daunting. Once you’re accustomed to following the charts, you’ll find the simple style of this pretty cardigan to be a wardrobe staple.
Materials
yarn
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% cashmere, 10% camel; 159 yd [145 m]/50 g): autumn jasper (tan), 9 (11, 12) skeins.
needles
body and sleeves: size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" (80 cm) circular (cir).
hems and cuffs: size 3 (3.25 mm): 24" (60 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle; ten (eleven, eleven) ⅝" (1.5 cm) buttons.
gauge
24 stitches and 36 rows = 4" (10 cm) in lace pattern on larger needle, lightly steamed.
finished size
About 36½ (43, 49½)" (92.5 [109, 125.5] cm) bust circumference. Sweater shown measures 36½" (92.5 cm), buttoned.
Note
•When working raglan shaping on the fronts for the first size, if there are not enough stitches to work the “knit 2,” knit either 1 or 0 stitch instead.
Stitch Guide
Seed Stitch (multiple of 2 sts + 1)
ALL ROWS: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Shaping in Lace Patterns
It took me years of knitting lace shawls before I began to think of garments as good candidates for lace patterns. Many sweaters with allover lace patterns have drop-shoulder construction, which certainly makes the knitting easy, but it doesn’t have the flattering fit I like. Some garments are worked with a vertical band of stockinette stitch at the side seams positioned so that it doesn’t interfere with the armhole shaping. Recently, as I designed a lace shawl by decreasing every other row to create a triangular shape, I realized that the same method could be used to shape the armhole of a raglan sweater.
I began the Ginger Lace Cardigan by charting multiple repeats of the lace pattern on a large sheet of graph paper and outlining the pattern repeat in a contrasting color. Based on my stitch and row gauge, I calculated the number of stitches that needed to be decreased over the number of rows in the armhole. Then, with my eraser handy, I began to “cut” into the pattern in a stairstep fashion—remove one stitch at each edge, work one row plain, remove one stitch, work one row plain, and so on until I removed the necessary number of stitches (Figure 1). In order to ensure that I hadn’t removed a decrease without removing its accompanying increase (and vice versa), I erased all of the symbols that represented partial lace pattern repeats. This left only whole repeats and the knowledge that the shaping wouldn’t interfere with the lace pattern. Then, I carefully replaced lace symbols to create partial motifs at the edges, always including a decrease for every increase (and vice versa), so that the partial motifs were mirror images on each side of the piece, just as if I were designing a triangular shawl with a center row of decreases. The same method can be used to add the lace pattern into new stitches that are increased, to shape a sleeve, for example (Figure 2). After that, I identified the repeat of the decreases so that I could follow just that part of the chart. I approach shaping this way from a purely visual standpoint—if I plot all the knitting on paper before I cast on stitches, I’m confident the project will be a success. Experiment! It’s all worth the effort, even if it’s only on pencil and paper.
Sidebar Raglan Decreases (Figure 1)
Sidebar Sleeve Increases (Figure 2)
Body
With smaller needle, CO 223 (263, 303) sts. Do not join. Work in seed st (see Stitch Guide) for 9 rows.
BUTTONHOLE ROW: (RS) K1, p1, k2tog, yo, work in seed st as established to end of row.
Work 14 more rows in seed st. Change to larger needle.
SET-UP ROW 1: (WS) Work 6 sts in seed st as established, place marker (pm), purl to last 6 sts, pm, work to end in seed st as established.
SET-UP ROW 2: (RS) Work 6 sts in seed st, slip marker (sl m), work Row 1 of Diamond Trellis chart to last 6 sts, sl m, work to end in seed st.
Cont in patt as established, work Rows 1–20 of chart 6 times, then work Rows 1–7 once more—piece measures about 16¼" (41.5 cm) from CO. At the same time work buttonhole on first 6 sts of every Row 9 of chart 8 (9, 9) times as foll: K1, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, work to end as established.
Note: Yoke beg before buttonholes end.
Divide for Yoke
(WS: Row 8 of chart) Work 6 sts in seed st for buttonband, p46 (56, 66) for left front, BO 10 sts for left armhole, purl until there are 99 (119, 139) sts on needle for back, BO 10 sts for right armhole, purl until there are 46 (56, 66) sts for right front, work 6 sts in seed st for buttonhole band—52 (62, 72) sts rem for each front, 99 (119, 139) sts rem for back. Place all sts on holders.
Sleeves
With smaller needle, CO 53 (63, 73) sts. Do not join. Work in seed st for 18 rows. Change to larger needle. Purl 1 (WS) row.
SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1, work Row 1 of Diamond Trellis chart to last st, k1.
Work 7 more rows in patt, working the first and last st of every row in St st (knit on RS; purl on WS).
INC ROW: (RS; Row 9 of chart) K1, M1R (see Mirrored Increases), work in patt to last st, M1L (see Mirrored Increases), k1—2 sts inc’d.
Diamond Trellis
Rep inc row every 10th row (Rows 19 and 9 of chart) 13 more times, working new sts into patt—81 (91, 101) sts. Work through Row 7 of chart.
NEXT ROW: (WS; Row 8 of chart) BO 5 sts, work in patt to last 5 sts, BO 5 sts—71 (81, 91) sts rem. Place sts on holder.
Yoke
With larger cir needle, join body and sleeves as foll:
JOINING RND: (Row 9 of chart) For right front, work buttonhole over 6 seed sts, yo, ssk, k2, yo, [sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo] 3 (4, 5) times, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, pm; for right sleeve, k5, yo, ssk, k2, yo, [sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo] 5 (6, 7) times, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, pm; for back, k4, yo, ssk, k2, yo, [sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo] 8 (10, 12) times, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ss
k, k3, pm; for left sleeve, k5, yo, ssk, k2, yo, [sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo] 5 (6, 7) times, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, pm; for left front, k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, [sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2, yo] 3 (4, 5) times, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, work rem 6 sts in seed st—345 (405, 465) sts total; 52 (62, 72) sts for each front, 99 (119, 139) sts for back, 71 (81, 91) sts for each sleeve.
Keeping 4 sts each side of each m in St st, work 1 (WS) row.
RAGLAN DEC ROW: (RS) *Work in patt to 5 sts before m (see Notes), k2, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk, k2; rep from * 3 more times, work in patt to end—8 sts dec’d.
Rep the last 2 rows 29 (34, 39) more times, working buttonholes as established, and at the same time beg on 19th (26th, 29th) dec row of yoke, shape neck as foll.
Neck
Place 6 band sts at each end of needle on holders; break yarn and rejoin at beg of RS row (after held sts). Cont with raglan shaping, BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll 2 (4, 4) rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 6 (2, 2) rows.