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The Mountain

Page 32

by Ed Viesturs


  Rugo, Barry, 137

  Rupal Face, 274

  Russia, 30

  Rutkiewicz, Wanda, 64

  Sagarmatha, 29

  Saint Elias, Mount, 61, 63

  Saint Elias Range, 79

  Salisbury, Richard, xv

  Sang, Gui, 97

  Sayle, Murray, 235

  Schauer, Robert, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212–13, 214, 215, 216, 217, 221–22, 224, 228, 295, 311

  Schmuck, Marcus, 181

  Schoene, Robert “Brownie,” xiii

  Schoening, Pete, 44, 86, 178

  Schwartzberg, Jan, 69–70, 71, 74–75

  Scott, Doug, 201, 237, 241–48, 311

  Scott, Robert Falcon, 109, 111

  Second Step, 56–58, 84, 93–94, 99, 173–74, 176, 278

  ladder on, 93, 176

  Segarra, Araceli, 208–9, 210, 212–13, 217

  Seitzl, Helmut, 151–57

  Sella, Vittorio, 101

  serac collapses, 72, 118

  Seventh Grade, The (Messner), 274

  Shackleton, Ernest, 109

  Sharp, David, 25

  Shatayev, Vladimir, 85, 86, 90

  Sherpas, 7, 34, 38, 41–42, 46–47, 50–51, 52, 54, 104, 107, 115, 152, 254, 300, 307

  Shih Chan-chun, 172, 173

  Shipton, Eric, 101–2, 103, 104–5, 106–7, 108, 111, 112, 114–16, 117, 121–22, 311

  Shishapangma, xv, 102, 149, 157, 206, 276, 293

  shoulder stand, 174

  Sierra Club Books, 184

  Siffredi, Marco, 300

  Sikhdar, Radhanath, 28–29

  Simonson, Eric, 2–3, 5, 6, 7, 12, 15–20, 22, 55, 61, 138, 158, 199

  Siri, Will, 179, 181, 188, 195

  Smolich, John, 63–64

  Smythe, Frank, 100, 101, 104–5, 106–7

  Somervell, Howard, 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 52–53, 99, 278

  Sonam Dendu, 133

  South Col (Noyce), 205

  Soviet Union, 80, 169–71

  Spirig, Bruno, 179

  State Department, U.S., 182

  Strutt, Edward, 40

  “summit fever,” 155

  Sunday Times, The, 235

  Sungdare Sherpa, 1

  Super Direct, 2

  supplemental oxygen, xii–xiii, 4–5, 11, 13, 21, 41, 45, 52, 53, 69, 89, 90, 106, 136, 155, 220, 273–74, 275, 308

  Swaim, Steve, 4

  Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 117

  Szafirski, Ryszard, 269

  Tabin, Geoff, 255

  Tamding (Sherpa), 142, 144, 148

  Tashi (Sherpa), 183

  Tatras, 265

  Taylor, Dave, 151–57

  Tejada-Flores, Lito, xii

  Terray, Lionel, 179

  That Untravelled World (Shipton), 122–23

  Thompson, Warren, 83, 86

  thrombophlebitis, 85–86, 87

  Tibet, 30, 31, 33, 73, 80–81, 111–12, 121

  Chinese invasion of, 111–12, 169

  Tichy, Herbert, 121

  Tiger of the Snows (Ullman), 124

  Tilman, H. W. “Bill,” 101–2, 103–4, 105, 106, 108, 111, 112, 113–14, 116, 123, 178

  Tingri Dzong, 34

  Tobin, Carl, 256

  Troillet, Jean, 70, 140, 280–81, 283, 286–87, 288, 289, 290, 291, 299

  Tselinshchev, Andrei, 90–91, 92, 93, 95, 96

  Tsering, Ila, 198

  Tsuzuki, Sumiyo, 209, 210, 212, 217

  Tucker, Mark, 97

  Tyrrell, Richard, 69–70, 71, 74, 75, 76

  Uemura, Naomi, 234, 235

  Uli Biaho, 11

  Ullman, James Ramsey, 124, 180, 182, 184, 188, 192, 193

  University of Washington, 77

  Unsoeld, Willi, xii, xv, 20, 26, 63, 179, 183, 185, 188, 189, 195, 196, 198, 199, 200–201, 233, 245, 289

  Unsworth, Walt, 27–28, 111, 115, 119, 170–71, 173, 177, 290

  Van Hoy, Craig, 3, 15–17, 78

  Vaucher, Michel and Yvette, 235

  Venables, Steven, 65

  Vernon, Ken, 204

  Viesturs, Anabel, 297, 312

  Viesturs, Ed, xi–xvi

  Denali expeditions of, 4

  as Everest guide, 150–57, 161–62

  and Everest International Peace Climb, 78–98

  first Everest climb of, 1–2, 4–20, 22

  Georgia Mount Everest Expedition and, 61–77

  K2 climb of, 139–40, 141

  Kangchenjunga climb of, 78

  motivations for, 27, 110–11

  physiology of, xiii–xiv, 7–8, 221

  risk aversion of, xiv–xv

  solo attempt of, 140–49

  sponsorship for, 141–42, 150

  stolen crampons of, 208

  on supplemental oxygen use, xii–xiii

  Viesturs, Ella, 294, 312

  Viesturs, Gilbert Edmund, 232, 294, 312

  Viesturs, Nina, 304, 312

  Viesturs, Paula Barton, 158–59, 163, 207, 211, 216–17, 220, 221, 225, 232, 294, 295, 297, 304–5, 306–7, 310, 312

  Wade, Ian, 90–91, 92, 97

  Wager, Lawrence, 99–100

  Wang Feng-tung, 173

  Wang Fu-chu, 174, 175

  Wang Hangbao, 56

  Warsaw Mountain Club, 265

  Washburn, Bradford, 29, 78–79, 185

  Washington State University, 77

  Watson, Dave, 301

  Weathers, Beck, 23, 203, 213, 214, 216, 295

  Webster, Ed, 65, 66

  Wendel, Amy, 128, 129, 131–32, 133–34, 135

  Wendel, Hall, 128–29, 131–32, 133–34, 135–36, 151–57, 219

  Westmacott, Michael, 125

  Wheeler, Edward, 38

  Whillans, Don, 179, 235, 236, 237, 238–39, 240

  White Tower, The (Ullman), 182

  Whittaker, Jim, 78–98, 108, 149, 181, 189–90, 191–95, 201, 242, 305

  Whittaker, Lou, 2, 10–11, 13, 62, 77, 78, 190, 305

  Whittaker, Peter, 305, 308, 309–10

  Wickersham Wall, 63

  Wickwire, Jim, 11–12, 13, 17, 143, 149, 254

  Wielicki, Krzysztof, 167, 266–68, 269, 270–71, 272–73, 311

  Wilcox, Rick, 133, 137

  Wildest Dream, The (film), 57

  Will to Climb, The (Viesturs), 26, 48, 282, 291–92

  Wilson, Greg, 3, 6, 8–9, 10–11, 13–15, 18–19

  Wilson, Ken, 236

  Wilton, Helen, 159, 207

  Wintersteller, Fritz, 181

  Wong Chu, 135

  Woodall, Ian, 204, 301

  World War I, 49–50

  World War II, 102, 107–8, 264

  Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 32, 34, 39, 47, 50

  Zawada, Andrzej, 263–64, 265, 266, 268–70, 272

  Touchstone

  A Division of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

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  Copyright © 2013 by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts

  All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever. For information address Touchstone Subsidiary Rights Department, 1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020

  First Touchstone hardcover edition October 2013

  TOUCHSTONE and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

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  Designed by Akasha Archer

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Viesturs, Ed.

  The mountain : my time on Everest / Ed Viesturs with David Roberts.

  pages cm

  1. Viesturs, Ed. 2. Mountaineers—United States—Biography. 3. Mountaineering—Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) 4. Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)—Description and travel. I. Roberts, David, da
te. II. Title.

  GV199.42.V54A3 2013

  796.522095496—dc23 2013010320

  ISBN 978-1-4516-9473-4

  ISBN 978-1-4516-9475-8 (ebook)

  Unless otherwise credited, all photographs in the first insert are courtesy of the Royal Geographic Society (with IBG) and all in the second insert courtesy of Ed Viesturs.

  JACKET DESIGN BY DAVID TER-AVANESYAN

  JACKET PHOTOGRAPH: THE UPPER SLOPES OF EVEREST AS SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF LHOTSE, 27,940’, MAY 16, 1994. PHOTO BY ED VIESTURS.

 

 

 


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