Mallmann on Fire
Page 17
Mint-Chile Salmuera
Serve with lamb or chicken. MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
1 cup water
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
3 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 small red or green chile pepper, seeded and chopped
1 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the salt and stir until it dissolves. Remove from the heat and let cool until tepid.
Meanwhile, wrap the peppercorns in a kitchen towel and pound with mallet until cracked. Place in a mortar, along with the garlic, lemon zest, juice, chopped chile, mint, parsley, and red pepper flakes and pound together to a rough paste. Whisk in the vinegar, half the salted water, and the olive oil. Taste for seasoning and stir in more salted water if desired. Let stand for 30 minutes to blend the flavors before serving.
Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera
Serve with pork. MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
1 cup water
1 tablespoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1 navel orange
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
¼ cup fresh rosemary leaves, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the salt and stir until it dissolves. Remove from the heat.
Strip the zest from the orange, chop it, and set it aside in a mortar. Trim all the pith from the orange with a sharp paring knife and discard. Working over a small bowl to catch the juice, cut between the membranes to release the segments, letting them drop into the bowl. Then transfer the segments to a plate and reserve them separately.
Wrap the peppercorns in a kitchen towel and pound with a mallet until cracked. Add to the mortar, along with the garlic and rosemary, and pound together to a coarse paste.
Stir the rosemary mixture into the orange juice, then whisk in ¼ cup of the salted water, the lemon juice, and the olive oil. Transfer to a serving bowl, add the reserved orange segments, and season with salt to taste.
Rich Vegetable Stock
Vegetable stock can often be so shy that you hardly taste it. By increasing the proportion of vegetables to water, you create much more intensity of flavor.
MAKES ABOUT 4 QUARTS
2 medium onions, quartered
1 head garlic, cut horizontally in half
2 large leeks, split, thoroughly washed, and cut into 2-inch pieces
6 celery stalks with leaves, cut into chunks
3 medium carrots, peeled and quartered
2 bay leaves
12 black peppercorns
5 quarts water
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put all the ingredients except the salt and pepper in a large stockpot and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cook, partially covered, for about 1 hour. Add salt, tasting carefully, and some pepper if you think it needs it.
Strain the stock through a sieve set over a large bowl, pressing down hard on the vegetables with a wooden spoon to extract all the flavor. Taste again and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Refrigerate for several days or freeze for up to 2 months.
Rich Brown Pork Stock
When you buy a quarter pig for a parrillada or other large meal, you are going to end up with a lot of meat trimmings and bones. The bones are the foundation of one of my favorite stocks. Carefully browning them before making the stock and deglazing the roasting pan with red wine ensure deep color and flavor. The marrow from a piece of beef shin adds extra body.
MAKES ABOUT 5 QUARTS
4 pounds meaty pork bones and trimmings
One 1-pound beef shin, with marrow
2 medium onions, quartered
2 heads garlic, cut horizontally in half
2 large leeks, split, thoroughly washed, and cut into 2-inch pieces
6 celery stalks with leaves, cut into chunks
3 carrots, scrubbed and cut into chunks
4 bay leaves, preferably fresh
4 fresh rosemary sprigs
12 black peppercorns
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups medium-bodied red wine, such as Uruguayan Tannat
About 6 quarts water
Heat an horno or the oven to 400°F.
Combine the bones, beef shin, vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns in one or two large roasting pans and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, turning the bones and vegetables occasionally, until well browned.
Transfer the contents of the roasting pan to a large stockpot. Pour off any fat from the roasting pan, set over medium-low heat, and deglaze with the red wine, scraping up all the browned flavorful bits stuck to the bottom (or do this with both pans). Add this liquid to the stockpot, along with enough water to cover the solids by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium heat, skimming off the foam as it rises to the top. When foam no longer rises, reduce the heat, add 1 tablespoon salt, and simmer gently for 3 hours, or until most of the meat has fallen off the bones and the liquid is very flavorful. Season with salt and pepper and turn off the heat.
When the bones are cool enough to handle, remove them from the pot. Pull off any remaining attached meat and return it to the stock. Set a large fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl and pour the stock through in batches, pressing down hard on the vegetables and meat with a wooden spoon to extract all the flavor. Taste for seasoning and refrigerate. When the stock is cool, skim off the fat. Refrigerate for several days or freeze for up to 2 months.
Crunchy Bread Crumbs
I prefer to make my own bread crumbs. Store-bought bread crumbs often contain flavorings I don’t want, and even the plain ones are never as good as those made from scratch with good olive oil. The uneven size of these crumbs makes for a much more interesting crunch. MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
8 ounces day-old bread, crust removed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Crumble the bread into a bowl with your fingers, making small, uneven crumbs. Moisten with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Turn the crumbs out onto a baking sheet and toast in the oven, tossing occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden and crunchy. Let cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
Ember-Toasted Bread
By now you know that I love fire and I love toast. This toast brings the taste of fire directly into your mouth.
SERVES 4 TO 8
1 round country bread, such as a sourdough boule, sliced horizontally in half
Prepare a bed of coals. When the coals have turned completely white, place the bread crust side down on them. Watch carefully as it toasts—a matter of seconds—and once the crust side is toasted, turn it with tongs to toast the cut side.
When both sides are toasted, tear or cut each half into quarters. Top with ham or lardo while still warm.
SOME IMPORTANT TOOLS
The following items will make both cooking and grilling from this book much easier and more pleasant.
■ Long heavy-duty heatproof gloves.
■ Long-handled fireplace tongs, shovel, poker, and hoe, for moving and adjusting logs and live coals.
■ Cast-iron and enameled cast-iron Dutch ovens (with lids), for deep-frying as well as for stews and baked dishes.
■ Earthenware baking dishes, for casseroles, beans, and serving. I collect these on my travels. If properly cured, some earthenware can be used directly over low heat or adjacent to bur
ning embers, as long as there are no abrupt temperature changes. Always ask the seller for instructions. A variety of cazuelas from Spain are available at www.tienda.com.
■ A reversible large wooden carving board, with a well on one side for meat juices.
■ A digital instant-read thermometer with a long wire probe will become your new best friend if you are not proficient at recognizing the look and feel of “doneness.”
■ Heavy-duty long-handled spring-action kitchen tongs.
■ Griddle scrapers (at least 3 inches wide): These look like putty knives but are food-safe and great for flipping, turning, and removing food from the grill or chapa.
■ A toolbox: I use wrenches, wire cutters, and food-safe stainless steel wire for securing grill racks, trussing large cuts, or even suspending them from branches under which you have built a fire (see Leg of Lamb on Strings, page 109).
Some Ready-Made Parrillas
Once you have a fire, you need a grate. You can improvise your own or use a conventional kettle grill. Or, for ease of setup and the ability to add coals easily, here are some parrillas you can buy readymade.
■ A 36-inch over-fire camp grill provides a large surface area for use over a fire pit or a bed of coals on the ground.
■ A Tuscan grill, for setting over a bed of coals on the ground, can also be used in a fireplace.
■ For a big event, a free-standing commercial charcoal grill, which can be rented or bought, provides 10 square feet of grilling space.
For Grilling Indoors
■ Cast-iron grill pan: For those without access to an outdoor grill, a ridged cast-iron grill pan is an excellent alternative in a well-ventilated kitchen. The ridges should be deep enough to keep the food well above the fat that drains off into the grooves. The sides of the pan will keep the melted fat inside. A thick marbled steak will need a deeper pan with deeper ridges than, for example, sliced vegetables. The thickness of the ridges and the spacing between them determine the amount of char flavor and the look of the grill marks.
■ A double-burner grill pan, which can be set over two burners, offers more space for foods such as a butterflied leg of lamb or for cooking larger quantities.
For Grilling Fish or Vegetables on a Parrilla
■ Grill baskets: A hinged grill basket clamps around a fish, allowing it to be turned without sticking or breaking. An open metal grill basket, which sits on top of the grill grate, will keep smaller items from falling into the fire.
■ Jerky racks: The wire racks from a smoker, such as a Camp Chef Smoke Vault, can be purchased separately from www.CampChef.com and used to help turn large fish that are too big for a regular grill basket. Set the fish between two oiled racks and secure them with wire.
Makeshift Planchas and Chapas
■ Cast-iron griddles: A large cast-iron griddle can serve as a chapa both outdoors on a grill grate over a wood or charcoal fire or indoors over a conventional gas or electric burner. Indoors, use the largest size that will comfortably fit your burner; a 12-inch square griddle is a good size, and round ones (like old-fashioned pancake griddles) are also fine. Outdoors, a chapa can be set over just a portion of your grill space, allowing for two different cooking methods.
■ Cast-iron skillet: A cast-iron skillet can be used indoors or outdoors as an extra chapa. It can also be used in an horno or a conventional oven as a roasting pan or as a substitute for a Brazilian iron box (see page 203). Get the largest size that will comfortably fit on your burner, as well as a smaller one for Spanish tortillas and for roasting potatoes. It is a very practical tool that allows you to sear or brown on the stovetop and then transfer to the oven for roasting.
My Portable Grill
My portable grill goes everywhere with me as I travel the world in search of inspiration. After a terrific fire cookout in Berkeley, California, I decided to make it a gift to my hostess, also a chef. When I got home to Argentina, it was back to the drawing board for another grill, pictured here. This time I elongated it to create more cooking surface. One oval functions as a chapa (aka plancha), the other as a parrilla, a simple grill. It suits me very well. Perhaps you know an iron maker who could make one for you. Or if I ever get down to the hard work of fabricating them myself, perhaps I’ll be able to make them available.
Peter, Donna, and me grilling in Peter’s Brooklyn backyard.
OUR THANKS TO:
Mike Anthony and Danny Meyer of Gramercy Tavern
Noah and Rae Bernamoff of Mile End
Ann Bramson
Alejandro Bulgheroni of Wines of Garzón and Colinas de Garzón olive oil
CampChef.com
Vanina Chimeno
Jan Derevjanik
Ben Eisendrath of Grillworks
Josh Feigenbaum
Bruce Frankel of Spitjack
Mark Kelly of Lodge Manufacturing
Carlos Mallmann
Patrick Martins of Heritage Foods USA
Marta Matos
Richard and Barbara Moore
Buzzy O’Keefe of The River Café
Lisa Queen
Josefina Saubidet
Robert Service
Michael Silverstone
Pilar Soria
Andy Tarlow and Sean Rembold of Wythe Hotel and Reynard
Alice Waters
And the deepest gratitude to Peter Workman.
INDEX
A ⃒B ⃒C ⃒D ⃒E ⃒
F ⃒G ⃒H ⃒I ⃒J ⃒
K ⃒L ⃒M ⃒N ⃒O ⃒
P ⃒Q ⃒R ⃒S ⃒T ⃒
U ⃒VW ⃒Y ⃒Z
A
aioli, basil, 75
Albondigas with Lentils, 94
almonds, Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181
amaretto:
Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243
Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244
anchovies:
Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213
Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196
apples, Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa, 115
Artagaveytia, Guzmán, 181
artichokes, Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39
Artichokes and Fingerling Potatoes a la Plancha, 229
arugula:
Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30
Smashed Chicken Breast in a Potato Crust with Tomato and Arugula Salad, 148
asado, 9, 36
asparagus, Duck Breast with Balsamic Vinegar and Asparagus, 158
Asparagus Bundles Wrapped in Bacon with Fried Eggs, 72
avocadoes:
Tomato and Avocado Salad, 33
Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69
Tuna Churrasco and Avocado Sandwich, 78
B
Baby Turnips a la Plancha with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 208
bacon:
Asparagus Bundles Wrapped in Bacon with Fried Eggs, 72
Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228
balsamic vinegar, Duck Breast with Balsamic Vinegar and Asparagus, 158
Bariloche, 8, 22
basil, Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30
Basil Aioli, 75
bass:
Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181
Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193
beans:
Braised Beans with Red Wine and Tomato, 215
Braised Black Beans, 216
Creamy Polenta with Fresh Favas and Peas, 220
Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174
see also green beans
beef:
Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98
Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 113
Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30
beets, Red and Golden Beet Salad with Radishes and Soft-Boiled Eggs, 26
berries:
Broiled Sabayon with Berries, 251
Pears with Malbec, Cream, and Berries, 251
see also specific berries
Bizcochuelo, Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244
Black Bread with Nuts, 267
Blistered Peppers with Charred Onions and Lemon Zest, 45
blue cheese, Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52
Braised Beans with Red Wine and Tomato, 215
Braised Black Beans, 216
Braised Carrots, 208
Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125
branzino, 193
Brazil, 235–36
bread:
Black Bread with Nuts, 267
Chapa Bread, 268
Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22
Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97
Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 290
Ember-Toasted Bread, 290
Ensalada de Sopa Paraguaya, 44
Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25
Huevos Escrachados with Pancetta, Zucchini Ribbons, and Green Peas, 64
Pan de Molde, 266
Tuna Tartare with Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 47
Broiled Sabayon with Berries, 251
Brooklyn, N.Y., 142