Book Read Free

Mallmann on Fire

Page 18

by Francis Mallmann


  Bulgheroni, Alejandro, 282

  Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243

  Burnt Shredded Quince, 245

  burrata, 30

  Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30

  butter:

  Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98

  Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201

  Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149

  Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa, 115

  C

  cabbage:

  Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 223

  Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 133

  Cabral, Pedro Alvares, 235

  cachaça, 3

  cake, pie:

  Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259

  Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244

  Pionono with Dulce de Leche and Strawberries, 249

  Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 264

  Tarta de Picho, 264

  calafate, 8

  Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105

  carciofi alia giudia, 39

  carrots:

  Braised Carrots, 208

  Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125

  Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25

  Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 223

  Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw, 133

  cauldron, 2, 152

  celery, Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51

  chanterelles, Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149

  Chapa Bread, 268

  chapa (plancha), 2, 8, 13, 17, 18, 19, 36, 42, 274, 294

  Artichokes and Fingerling Potatoes a la Plancha, 229

  Baby Turnips a la Plancha with Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 208

  Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105

  Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42

  Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97

  Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213

  Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192

  Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196

  Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39

  Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174

  Sliced Kidney Strips a la Plancha with Salsa Provenzal, 104

  use of, 14

  Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93

  Chapel, Alain, 57, 61

  charcoal, 8, 19

  adding more, 17–18

  charcoal, hardwood lump, 17

  chard:

  Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71

  Coal-Roasted Zucchini and Swiss Chard, 223

  Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203

  Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196

  Charred Herb Salsa, 122

  Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22

  cheese:

  Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30

  Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214

  Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52

  Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30

  Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226

  Griddled Cheeses with Parsley, Red Onion, and Cherry Tomatoes, 36

  Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25

  Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52

  Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228

  Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39

  Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 264

  Chez Panisse, 26, 176

  chicken:

  Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149

  Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75

  Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157

  Smashed Chicken Breast in a Potato Crust with Tomato and Arugula Salad, 148

  Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42

  Chicken on Strings, 109

  chicory, Butterflied Chicken a la Parrilla with Chanterelles and Grilled Chicory, 149

  chile pepper:

  Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109

  Mint-Chile Salmuera, 287

  Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69

  Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281

  Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259

  chorizo, Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125

  Chupin de Pescado, 200

  churrasco, 78

  Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71

  coal, see charcoal

  Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, 171

  Coal-Roasted Zucchini and Swiss Chard, 223

  Comté cheese, Shaved Artichokes a la Plancha with Aged Comté Cheese, 39

  cooking stones, ix

  Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98

  Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97

  cream:

  Pears with Malbec, Cream, and Berries, 251

  Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228

  Creamy Polenta with Fresh Favas and Peas, 220

  Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75

  Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 290

  Tuna Tartare with Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 47

  Crunchy Potato Skins with Parsley, 45

  Crusty Rice, 219

  Cuartirolo cheese:

  Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214

  Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 263

  curanto, 8, 277

  D

  dates:

  Cowboy Rib Eye a la Plancha with Crispy Brioche Salad and Grilled Dates, 97

  Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52

  Duck Breast with Balsamic Vinegar and Asparagus, 158

  dulce de leche:

  Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259

  Pionono with Dulce de Leche and Strawberries, 249

  Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 258

  E

  Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213

  Eggplants Stuffed with Tomatoes and Cuartirolo Cheese, 214

  eggs:

  Asparagus Bundles Wrapped in Bacon with Fried Eggs, 72

  Huevos Escrachados with Pancetta, Zucchini Ribbons, and Green Peas, 64

  Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203

  Red and Golden Beet Salad with Radishes and Soft-Boiled Eggs, 26

  Ember-Toasted Bread, 290

  Emmental, Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226

  endives:

  Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42

  Grilled Short Ribs with Vinegar-Glazed Charred Endive, 101

  Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52

  Ensalada de Sopa Paraguaya, 44

  F

  favas, Creamy Polenta with Fresh Favas and Peas, 220

  fennel:

  Braised Chorizo with
Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta, 125

  Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77

  Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69

  feta, Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30

  figs, Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243

  Fig Salad with Burrata and Basil, 30

  fire cooking:

  in brick or clay oven (horno), 15

  cinder blocks for, 14

  coals for, 8, 17–18

  on embers and ashes (rescoldo), 15

  feeding the fire, 17

  of fish, 183

  heat as important to, 14, 15

  important tools for, 292–94

  Indians and, ix, 2–3, 8, 13, 17, 102, 141–42, 236, 274

  meat and, 18, 116, 119

  parrillada, 116–21

  safety for, 18

  in the snow, 152

  vegetables and, 18, 116, 119, 152

  wooden stakes for, 8

  see also specific cooking materials

  fish, shellfish:

  Chupin de Pescado, 200

  Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170

  Eggplant a la Plancha with Cherry Tomatoes and Anchovies, 213

  Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181

  Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188

  Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86

  Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77

  Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192

  Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201

  Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203

  Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196

  Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174

  Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193

  Split Lobster a la Parrilla with Scallops, 204

  sticks to grill, 183

  Surf and Swine, 197

  Tortilla of Prawns with Grilled Potatoes and Avocado, Chile Pepper, and Fennel Salsa, 69

  Tuna Churrasco and Avocado Sandwich, 78

  Tuna Tartare with Crunchy Bread Crumbs, 47

  flatfish:

  Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188

  Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86

  G

  garlic:

  Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22

  Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170–71

  Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192

  Skate a la Plancha with Braised White Beans, Garlic, and Parsley, 174

  Weeping Lamb, 108

  Garzón, 26, 103, 163–64

  gauchos, 15, 76, 268

  Gelb, Donna, 282

  goat cheese, Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52

  gooseberry, Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254

  Grand Véfour, 57

  grapes:

  Pork Loin Chops with Thyme Oil and Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 134

  Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 282

  Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes, 263

  Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226

  Gray, Rose, 229

  green beans:

  Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203

  Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93

  Griddled Cheeses with Parsley, Red Onion, and Cherry Tomatoes, 36

  Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157

  Griddled Red Bartlett Pears Wrapped in Iberico Ham, 33

  Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips with Amaretto and Burnt Shredded Quince, 244

  Grilled Carrots with Aged Ricotta and Oregano on Toast, 25

  Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181

  Grilled Dover Sole with Parsleyed Boiled Potatoes, 188

  Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86

  Grilled and Roasted Leg of Pork Wrapped in Rosemary with Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 129

  Grilled Short Ribs with Vinegar-Glazed Charred Endive, 101

  Grilled Skirt Steak Sandwich with Watercress, Onion, Tomato, and Mustard, 76

  Grilled Whole Fish Stuffed with Fennel, 176–77

  H

  Hake Steaks a la Plancha with Fried Potatoes and Garlic, 192

  ham:

  Gratin of Potatoes with Emmental Wrapped in Bayonne Ham, 226

  Griddled Red Bartlett Pears Wrapped in Iberico Ham, 33

  hardwood lump charcoal, 17

  hearts of celery, Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51

  heat levels, 14, 15, 17

  Hemingway, Ernest, 57

  herbs:

  Charred Herb Salsa, 122

  Griddled Chicken with Charred Herb and Tomato Salad, 157

  Grilled Giant Flatfish Stuffed with Peppers, Onions, and Herbs, 185–86

  see also specific herbs

  horno (brick or clay oven), 15, 274

  Huevos Escrachados with Pancetta, Zucchini Ribbons, and Green Peas, 64

  I

  ice cream:

  Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 258

  Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254

  infiernillo, 2, 8

  iron, 17

  cast-, 14

  cleaning of, 17

  J

  jelly:

  Open-Faced Pomegranate Jelly and Lardo Sandwich, 81

  Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly, 254

  José Ignacio, 163, 181

  K

  Kaminsky, Peter, 1, 9, 109

  kidney, Sliced Kidney Strips a la Plancha with Salsa Provenzal, 104

  L

  lamb:

  Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Rosemary and Thyme and Charred Apple Salsa, 115

  Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112

  Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109

  Weeping Lamb, 108

  lardo, Open-Faced Pomegranate Jelly and Lardo Sandwich, 81

  Ledoyen, 57

  leeks:

  Potatoes with Smoked Pancetta, Leeks, Cream, and Cheese, 228

  Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193

  Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112

  Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109

  lemon:

  Blistered Peppers with Charred Onions and Lemon Zest, 45

  Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243

  Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51

  lentils, Albondigas with Lentils, 94

  lettuce:

  Crisp Chicken Skin, Lettuce, and Heirloom Tomato Sandwich, 75

  Veal Rib Chops and French Green Beans a la Plancha with Romaine-Watercress Salad, 93

  livers:

  Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105

  Chicken Livers a la Plancha in Charred Endive, 42

  lobster, Split Lobster a la Parrilla with Scallops, 204

  López, Carlos Antonio, 44

  M

  Maître d’Hôtel Butter, Côte de Boeuf a la Parrilla with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 98

  Malbec, Pears with Malbec, Cream, and Berries, 251

  Mallmann, Carlos, 8, 251, 2
73

  Mallmann, Eloisa, 236

  Mallmann, Francis, 1, 2–3

  aesthetic of, 1, 3

  background of, 7–8

  cooking method of, 3

  custom grill of, 13, 17

  travels of, 8–9, 141–42, 163–64, 235–36

  TV show of, ix, 13, 52, 75

  Mallmann, Vanina, 2, 235

  Marcial (Mallmann’s friend), 273

  Mary’s Fish Camp, 45

  meat, fire cooking and, 18, 116, 119

  meatballs, Albondigas with Lentils, 94

  Mecha (Mallmann’s aunt), 264

  merguez, Leg of Lamb with Merguez, Coal-Roasted Delicata Squash, and Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera, 112

  milanesa, 148

  mint:

  Burnt Peaches and Figs with Amaretto, Lemon Zest, and Mint, 243

  Pear Salad with Mint, Blue Cheese, and Fresh Dates, 52

  Prawns, Sardines, and Anchovies a la Plancha with Zucchini, Swiss Chard, and Minted Yogurt, 196

  Mint-Chile Salmuera, 287

  Leg of Lamb on Strings with Mint-Chile Salmuera, 109

  mushrooms:

  Charred Mushrooms with Thyme and Garlic Toast, 22

  Shaved Hearts of Celery with Portobello Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon, 49, 51

  Slashed and Stuffed Black Sea Bass with Potatoes, Leeks, and Mushrooms, 193

  umami flavor of, 22, 49

  Mussels Steamed in Red Wine-Butter Sauce with Shallots and Parsley, 201

  mustard:

  Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52

  Grilled Skirt Steak Sandwich with Watercress, Onion, Tomato, and Mustard, 76

  N

  New York, N.Y., 141–42

  nuts:

  Black Bread with Nuts, 267

  Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche, 259

  Endive Salad with Mustard, Aged Goat Cheese, and Toasted Walnuts, 52

  Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Toasted Almond Salsa, 181

  Pork Chops with Toasted Nuts, 128

  Toasted Nuts, 283

  Toasted Nut Salsa, 283

  O

  Octopus in an Iron Box with Chard, Green Beans, Tomatoes, and Eggs, 203

  oil:

  Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105

  Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281

  Churrasco of Tuna with Coal-Burnt Pimentón Oil, Heirloom Tomato and Chard Salad, and Garlicky Potato Puree, 170

  Pimentón Oil, 171, 281

  Pork Loin Chops with Thyme Oil and Roasted Grapes on the Vine, 134

  olives, olive oil:

  Chilled Flavored Olive Oil, 281

  Potato Salad with Black Olives, 48

  olla de barro, 226

  onions:

  Beet and Orange Salad with Arugula and Feta, 30

  Blistered Peppers with Charred Onions and Lemon Zest, 45

  Calves’ Liver a la Plancha with Pimentón Oil, Onions, and Crunchy Potatoes, 105

 

‹ Prev