Travels into the Interior of Africa

by Mungo Park

  June 13th – Early in the morning departed from Dindikoo. The sick occupied all the horses and spare asses; and as the number of drivers was thus diminished, we had very hard work to get on. Ten of the loaded asses and drivers went a different road. Mr Anderson and Mr Scott being with them, fired their muskets as soon as they observed that the guide was leading them in a road where were no asses’ foot-marks. Answered them; and sent the sergeant to their assistance. In half an hour they came up, having gone about three miles too much to the right. Reached a village almost deserted about one o’clock, and found the coffle halted by a stream to the east of it. Very uneasy about our situation: half of the people being either sick of the fever or unable to use great exertion, and fatigued in driving the asses. Found, to my great mortification, that the ass which carried the telescope and several other things was not come up. Mr Anderson, the sergeant, and our guide rode back about five miles in search of it; but returned at half-past three o’clock, without being able to find it. Presented the Dooty of the village with five bars of amber; requesting him, if he heard of it, to send it forward, and I would reward him for it. Put on the loads; and part of the coffle had departed, when one of the Dooty’s sons came and told us that he had seen the ass, and brought it to the village. Went to the village, and paid the person who found it twenty bars, and the Dooty ten bars. Mounted the load on my horse, and drove it before me. I did not reach Fankia till seven o’clock; having to walk slow, in order to coax on three sick soldiers who had fallen behind, and were for lying down under every tree they passed. Fankia is a small village, four miles north-west from Binlingalla. Here we departed from my former route, and did not touch on it again till we reached the Niger.

  Chapter 3

  Departure from Fankia – Tambaura mountains, and difficulties in ascending the pass – Toombin – Great embarrassments on the road – Serimanna – Fajemmia – Increase of the sick – Nealakalla – Ba lee river – Boontoonkooran – Dooggikotta – Falifing – Losses on the road – Gimbia; inhospitable treatment – Sullo – Face of the country – Secoba – Kronkromo – Passage of the Ba fing – Mode of smelting and working gold – Fatal accident in crossing the Ba fing – Hippopotami – Deaths and losses on the route – Increase of sickness – Reach Viandry – Koeena – Danger from young lions – Koombandi – Great embarrassments on the road – Fonilla – Ba woolima river; difficulties in crossing it – Isaaco seized by a crocodile – Boolinkoonbo – Distressing situation of the whole of the party – Reach Serrababoo – Saboseera.

  JUNE 14TH – I halted at Fankia, in order to give the sick a little rest, knowing there was a steep hill to ascend near this place. Found myself very sick, having been feverish all night.

  Bought corn for the asses, and plenty of fowls for the sick.

  June 15th – Left Fankia: men still very sickly, and some of them slightly delirious. About a mile north-east of this village is the passage in the Tambaura mountains, called Toombinjeena. The ascent is very steep and rocky: the perpendicular of the steepest place would not much exceed three hundred feet. The asses being heavily loaded, in order to spare as many as possible for the sick, we had much difficulty in getting our loads up this steep. The number of asses exceeding the drivers, presented a dreadful scene of confusion in this rocky staircase; loaded asses tumbling over the rocks, sick soldiers unable to walk, black fellows stealing; in fact it certainly was uphill work with us at this place. Having got up all the loads and asses, set forwards; and about two miles from the steep came to the delightful village of Toombin. On collecting our loads, found that the natives had stolen from us seven pistols, two greatcoats, and one knapsack, besides other small articles. Sent back the horses for two sick soldiers, who were unable to ride on the horses, and were left at the steep. Pitched the tent, and secured the baggage from the rain.

  June 16th – Left Toombin. Just as the people and asses were gone, the good old schoolmaster whom I mentioned in my former travels came up.* He had heard the night before that I was with the party, and had travelled all night to come and see me. As the loads were gone on, I told him I wished him to go forward with me to the place where we should halt, that I might reward him in some degree for his former kindness. Recovered three of the pistols which had been stolen, and one greatcoat. Set forwards. About a mile to the east of the village found Hinton, one of the sick who rode Mr Anderson’s horse, lying under a tree, and the horse grazing at a little distance. Some of the natives had stolen the pistols from the holsters, and robbed my coat case, which was fastened behind the saddle, of a string of coral, all the amber and beads it contained, and one barraloolo. Luckily they did not fancy my pocket sextant, and artificial horizon, which were in the same place. Put the sick man on the horse and drove it before me; and after holding him on and using every exertion to keep him on the saddle, I found that I was unable to carry him on, and having fatigued myself very much with carrying him forwards about six miles, I was forced to leave him.

  About a mile after I left Hinton, I came to two others lying in the shade of a tree. Mounted one on Mr Anderson’s horse, and the other on my own, and drove them before me. Reached the village of Serimanna about half-past twelve o’clock; sent back a horse in the cool of the evening for Hinton, and brought him to the village, being obliged to tie him on the horse.

  Gave the schoolmaster five bars of scarlet, one barraloolo, ten bars of beads, fourteen of amber, and two dollars, which made him completely happy. I likewise gave him an Arabic New Testament, which he promised to read with attention.

  June 17th – Finding that Hinton was worse, and Sparks delirious, left them to the care of the Dooty of the village; having given him amber and beads sufficient to purchase victuals for them if they lived, and to bury them if they died. If they recovered, he engaged to join them to the first coffle travelling to Gambia. From Serimanna in two hours we reached Fajemmia: this is only a small village, but fortified with a high wall. The chief, from whom the village has its name, formerly resided at Faramba, to the east of this; but has lately retired here, leaving his people and slaves at Faramba. Fajemmia is the most powerful chief of Konkodoo, and holds under his subjection all the country from Toombin to the Ba fing.

  The customs paid by travellers being always in proportion to the power and mischievous disposition of the chiefs, those paid at Fajemmia are of course very high.

  June 18th – Our palaver with Fajemmia was not finished till the morning of the 19th. During the 18th, 19th, and 20th I was very sick; and though in general I was able to sit up part of the day, yet I was very weak, and unable to attend to the marketing of corn, milk, and fowls. Mr Anderson therefore bought these articles, and attended to the cattle, etc Lieutenant Martyn, the sergeant, corporal, and half the soldiers sick of the fever. Boiled a camp kettle full of strong decoction of cinchona every day since leaving Dindikoo. Purchased three asses, and hired our guide’s people to drive four of our asses in addition to the two they already drove, making altogether six asses, for one hundred and twenty bars.

  On the 18th, Mr Anderson and one of the soldiers went back to Serimanna to see the two men left there, and ascertain if they could possibly be carried forward. Returned on the 19th, and reported that they were both alive, but not in a state to be moved, and were themselves anxious to remain where they were, as it afforded them the only chance of recovery.

  June 20th – When we had loaded the asses, found one of the soldiers (old Rowe) unable to ride. Paid ten bars of amber, and measured eighteen days’ rice for him to one of the best men in the village, who, I have no doubt, will take care of him. Shortly after leaving Fajemmia, it began to thunder, and by the time we had travelled four miles we experienced a smart tornado, which wetted many of the loads, and made the road very muddy and slippery. We reached a village nearly deserted, called Nealakalla, about noon. Here we found that the ass which carried the spare clothing was not come up; and as many of the men were very ill situated, particularly with respect to shoes, I thought it best to send back two of
the men a few miles to see if they could find it. Felt rather uneasy about the men, as they did not return at sunset. Fired several muskets, but heard no answer. The village of Nealakalla is close to the Ba lee or ‘Honey river,’ which we found discoloured, but not sensibly swelled. Saw two crocodiles, and an incredible number of large fish.

  June 21st – As the two men had not yet arrived, sent forward the coffle to cross the river; desired Mr Scott to fire a musket when they had all crossed. Mr Anderson and myself agreed to stop at Nealakalla till noon, in hopes of hearing something concerning the two men. They arrived about eleven o’clock, having found the ass and load so near Fajemmia, that they had gone there and slept in the same hut with old Rowe, who, they told us was recovering and very well pleased with his situation. Set forwards; and about a mile to the north-east of the village crossed the river at a place where its course is interrupted by a bed of whinstone rock, which forms the stream into a number of small cataracts. The people had to carry over all the loads on their heads, and we found them cooking on the east bank of the river, and nearly ready to set forwards. Mr Anderson and I stepped across the river from rock to rock without wetting our feet.

  As soon as the men had finished their breakfast we set forwards, and about two miles east came to a narrow and deep creek, in which was a stream of muddy water. Crossed this with so much difficulty, that some were for calling it Vinegar Creek. About four o’clock passed the village of Boontoonkooran, delightfully situated at the bottom of a steep and rocky hill. Two miles east of this we halted for the night at the village of Dooggikotta; where the cultivation is very extensive, and we had much difficulty in keeping our cattle off the corn. A tornado during the night.

  June 22nd – Halted till near ten o’clock, as there was great appearance of rain. William Roberts, one of the carpenters who had been sick since leaving Fajemmia, declared that he was unable to proceed, and signed a note that he was left by his own consent. Passed a small village about four miles to the east, and travelled on the ascent near a river course almost the whole day. We had a fine view of Kullallie, a high detached and square rocky hill, which we had seen ever since we left Fajemmia. This hill is quite inaccessible on all sides, and level and green on the top. The natives affirm that there is a lake of water on its summit, and they frequently go round the bottom of the precipices, during the rainy season, and pick up large turtles, which have tumbled over the precipice and killed themselves. Saw many very picturesque and rocky hills during the march, and in the evening halted at the village of Falifing, which is situated on the summit of the ascent which separates the Ba lee from the Ba fing. Lost one ass, and 80 lb. of balls on the march.

  June 23rd – Early in the morning resumed our journey; and after travelling two hours on a level plain, bounded with high rocky precipices on our right and left, we descended slowly towards the east, and shortly came to the village of Gimbia, or Kimbia. I chanced to be in the rear, bringing on some asses which had thrown their loads; and when I came up I found all about the village wearing a hostile appearance, the men running from the corn grounds and putting on their quivers, etc The cause of this tumult was, as usual, the love of money. The villagers had heard that the white men were to pass; that they were very sickly, and unable to make any resistance, or to defend the immense wealth in their possession. Accordingly when part of the coffle had passed the village, the people sallied out; and, under pretence that the coffle should not pass till the Dooty pleased, insisted on turning back the asses. One of them seized the sergeant’s horse by the bridle to lead it into the village; but when the sergeant cocked his pistol and presented it, he dropped the bridle; others drove away the asses with their loads, and everything seemed going into confusion. The soldiers with great coolness loaded their pieces with ball, and fixed their bayonets: on seeing this the villagers hesitated, and the soldiers drove the asses across the bed of a torrent; and then returned, leaving a sufficient number to guard the asses.

  The natives collected themselves under a tree by the gate of the village, where I found the Dooty and Isaaco at very high words. On enquiring the cause of the tumult, Isaaco informed me that the villagers had attempted to take the loads from the asses. I turned to the Dooty, and asked him who were the persons that had dared to make such an attempt. He pointed to about thirty people armed with bows; on which I fell a-laughing, and asked him if he really thought that such people could fight; adding, if he had a mind to make the experiment, they need only go up and attempt to take off one of the loads. They seemed by this time to be fully satisfied that they had made a vain attempt; and the Dooty desired me to tell the men to go forward with the asses. As I did not know but perhaps some of the sick might be under the necessity of returning this way, I thought it advisable to part on friendly terms; and therefore gave the Dooty four bars of amber, and told him that we did not come to make war; but if any person made war on us, we would defend ourselves to the last.

  Set forwards, and half a mile to the east descended into a rocky valley: many of the asses fell in going down the steep. About noon reached Sullo, an unwalled village at the bottom of a rocky hill. Shortly after we halted Lieutenant Martyn’s horse died. This was a godsend to the people of Sullo, who cut him up as if he had been a bullock, and had almost come to blows about the division of him; so much is horseflesh esteemed at this place. Numbers of large monkies on the rocks over the town.

  June 24th – Left Sullo, and travelled through a country beautiful beyond imagination, with all the possible diversities of rock, sometimes towering up like ruined castles, spires, pyramids, etc We passed one place so like a ruined Gothic abbey, that we halted a little, before we could satisfy ourselves that the niches, windows, ruined staircase, etc, were all natural rock. A faithful description of this place would certainly be deemed a fiction.

  Passed a hill composed of one homogeneous mass of solid rock (red granite) without a detached stone or blade of grass; never saw such a hill in my life. In the course of the march saw several villages romantically situated in the crescents formed by the rocky precipices; the medium height of these precipices is from one hundred to five or six hundred feet perpendicular. The whole country between the Ba fing and Ba lee is rugged and grand beyond anything I have seen.

  We reached Secoba at noon. The Dooty of this town is Fajemmia’s younger brother. Presented him with goods to the amount of fifty bars; he was so much pleased that he said he would go with us till we had crossed the Ba fing, and see that the canoe people did not impose on us.

  June 25th – Halted at Secoba, in order to refresh the sick; bought plenty of fowls and milk for them.

  June 26th – Departed from Secoba, accompanied by the Dooty and several people. Hired three of the Dooty’s friends, as guides to Kandy, in that district of Fooladoo called Gangaran. About seven miles east of Secoba came to the village of Konkromo, where we pitched our tents by the river side. The day was too far spent before we had agreed with the canoe people, and, as we could not possibly carry all the loads over, thought it best to wait till next morning.

  June 27th – Early in the morning paid the canoe people fifty bars to carry over all our baggage and cattle, and likewise presented the Dooty of Secoba with some beads. Four canoes, sufficient to carry only an ass-load and an half at a time, were provided for this purpose. Sent over Mr Anderson and six men with their arms to receive the loads from the canoes and carry them into the tents. The asses were made to swim over, one on each side of the canoe, two boys sitting in the canoe and holding them by the ears.

  At this place I had an opportunity of seeing their mode of smelting gold. Isaaco had purchased some gold in coming through Konkodoo, and here he had it made into a large ring. The smith made a crucible of common red clay and dried it in the sun; into this he put the gold, without any flux or mixture whatever; he then put charcoal under and over it, and blowing the fire with the common double bellows of the country, soon produced such a heat as to bring the gold into a state of fusion. He then made a small furrow
in the ground, into which he poured the melted gold; when it was cold he took it up, and heating it again, soon hammered it into a square bar. Then heating it again, he twisted it by means of two pairs of pincers into a sort of screw; and lengthening out the ends, turned them up so as to form a massy and precious ring.

  When the baggage and cattle were all transported over, I sent over the men, and embarked myself in the last canoe; but as one of the soldiers in the other canoe had gone out to purchase something, I made the canoe in which I was shove off telling the men to come off the moment the man returned. I found it difficult to sit in the canoe so as to balance it, though it contained only three people besides the rower. We had just landed on the east bank, when we observed the canoe, in which were the three soldiers, pushing off from the opposite bank. It shortly after overset, and though the natives from the shore swam in to their assistance, yet J. Cartwright was unfortunately drowned. The natives dived and recovered two of the muskets, and Cartwright’s body; they put the body in the canoe and brought it over. I used the means recommended by the Humane Society, but in vain. We buried him in the evening on the bank of the river.