Travels into the Interior of Africa

by Mungo Park

  The Ba fing is here a large river quite navigable; it is swelled at this time about two feet, and flows at the rate of three knots per hour. The people here are all thieves: they attempted to steal several of our loads, and we detected one carrying away the bundle in which was all our medicines. We could not sleep with the noise of the hippopotami, which came close to the bank and kept snorting and blowing all night.

  June 28th – Purchased an ass for four minkallis of gold, and a horse for forty-five bars. Set forwards about seven o’clock. After travelling four miles, the ass I had purchased lay down, and I found it impossible to raise him. Took off the load and left him. At ten o’clock came close to the bottom of a high rocky hill, which rises like an immense castle from the level plain: it is called Sankaree; and on enquiring about a large heap of stones near the foot of the precipice, I was told that the town of Madina, which was in the vicinity, was some years ago stormed by the Kaartans, and that the greater part of the inhabitants fled towards this hill. Some however were killed on the road, and these stones were collected over the grave of one of them. He said there were five more such near the hill, and that every person in passing, if he belongs to the same family or contong, thinks himself bound to throw a stone on the heap to perpetuate the memory of their friend. These heaps are precisely what in Scotland are called cairns. This hill is accessible only by one very narrow and difficult path. They assured me that there was abundance of water on the summit at all seasons, and that the huts built by the Madina people were still standing on the summit, though out of repair.

  At eleven o’clock crossed a stream, like a mill stream, running north. We halted on the east side of it; found that one of the asses with a load of beads had not come up. The soldier who drove it (Bloore), without acquainting any person, returned to look for it. Shortly after the ass and load were found in the woods. Sent the sergeant after Bloore on one of the horses; he rode back as far as Sankaree without seeing him, and concluded he had lost the path. He found one of the sick (Walter) who had wandered from the track (for there was no road), and had laid himself down among the bushes till some of the natives discovered him. Paid the natives ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Bloore.

  In the afternoon collected the asses for marching. Had great difficulty in finding the horses, one of which (the sergeant’s) after all our search could not be found. As it was in vain to wait for Bloore, put on the loads and departed. It is to be observed that there is no pathway in these woods, and we found much difficulty in keeping together: fired muskets frequently to give intimation of our line of march. After travelling about four miles, Shaddy Walter, the sick man before mentioned, became so exhausted that he could not sit on the ass. He was fastened on it, and held upright; he became more and more faint, and shortly after died. He was brought forwards to a place where the front of the coffle had halted, to allow the rear to come up. Here when the coffle had set forwards, two of the soldiers with their bayonets, and myself with my sword, dug his grave in the wild desert; and a few branches were the only laurels which covered the tomb of the brave.

  We did not come up to the coffle till they had halted for the night near a pool of water shaded with ground palm trees. Here I was informed that two of the soldiers were not come up: one (Baron) was seen about a mile from the halting-place; the other (Hill) was supposed to be three or four miles behind. Fired two muskets every quarter of an hour: one to call their attention, and the other about half a minute after to give the direction. At half-past seven Hill came up, being directed entirely by the sound of the muskets. At eleven o’clock saw some lights in the woods, and heard people holla: in a little time five people came, bringing with them Bloore, the man who had gone in quest of the ass. He had gone back as far as the Black river, crossed it, and made signs to the people about the ass and the load. As they did not rightly understand him, they thought that some party had fallen on the coffle, and that this soldier had run away. They therefore came with him to see if they could come in for their share, or at least receive some reward for coming along with the man. Paid them ten bars of amber, and desired them to look for Baron, and I would give them ten bars more if they found him.

  June 29th – At daybreak fired muskets for Baron; and as it was evident he must have wandered from the track made by the asses, and it was in vain to look for him in so extensive a wilderness, at half-past six o’clock loaded the asses and set out. Two more of the soldiers affected with the fever. Route in the morning rocky. Travelled twelve miles without halting, in order to reach a watering-place. About two miles before we came to the watering-place, Bloore, the soldier who had come up during the night, sat down under the shade of a tree; and when I desired him to proceed, he said he was rather fatigued, and when he had cooled himself, he would follow. I assured him that the halting-place was only a very little way off, and advised him by all means not to fall asleep. We halted on an elevated table land: the water was only rain collected in the hollow places of the rock. At half-past four o’clock, as Bloore had not come up, I sent the sergeant on one of the horses to bring him forward; he returned at sunset, having seen nothing of him, and having rode several miles past the place. I suspected that the sergeant might have rode past him asleep under the tree; I therefore got three volunteers to go with me, and look for him. It was now quite dark. We collected a large bundle of dry grass, and taking out a handful at a time, kept up a constant light, in order to frighten the lions which are very numerous in these woods. When we reached the tree under which he lay down, we made a fire. Saw the place where he had pressed down the grass, and the marks of his feet; went to the west along the pathway, and examined for the marks of his feet, thinking he might possibly have mistaken the direction. Found none; fired several muskets. Hollowed, and set fire to the grass. Returned to the tree and examined all round; saw no blood nor the footmarks of any wild beasts. Fired six muskets more. As any further search was likely to be fruitless (for we did not dare to walk far from the track for fear of losing ourselves), we returned to the tents. One of Isaaco’s people shot an antelope in the evening, which more than supplied us all with meat. Much troubled in the night with wolves.

  June 30th – Early in the morning set forwards, and descended from the table land into a more fertile plain. Vast numbers of monkies on the rocks. Reached Kandy after a march of ten miles, all very much fatigued. This is but a small town; the large town having been taken and burnt by Daisy’s son about two years ago, and all the people carried away. Mr Anderson and Mr Scott sick of the fever.

  July 1st – Covered a load of beads with the skin of the antelope. One of the bundles containing all our small seed beads stolen during the night; made all the search I could, but in vain: I could not recover it. As we were short of rice, and none could be purchased here, determined to push on as quick as possible; but the men were so very sickly, that I judged it imprudent to trust the baggage and asses without proper drivers. Employed in dividing the asses amongst the healthy men.

  July 2nd – Set forwards. Two more of the soldiers sick of the fever. When we had travelled about three miles, one of the soldiers (Roger M’Millan) became so delirious, that it was found impossible to carry him forwards. Left him at a village called Sanjeekotta. I regretted much being under the necessity of leaving in the hour of sickness and distress, a man who had grown old in the service of his country. He had been thirty-one years a soldier, twelve times a corporal, nine times a sergeant; but an unfortunate attachment to the bottle always returned him into the ranks.

  We reached Koeena about three o’clock, all very much fatigued. I felt myself very sickly, having lifted up and reloaded a great many asses on the road. The village of Koeena is walled round, and it is surrounded on three sides with rocky precipices. Had a severe tornado at seven o’clock, which put out the watch-fire and made us all crowd into the tents. When the violence of the squall was over, we heard a particular sort of roaring or growling, not unlike the noise of a wild boar; there seemed to be more than one of the
m, and they went all round our cattle. Fired two muskets to make them keep at a distance; but as they still kept prowling round us, we collected a bunch of withered grass, and went with Lieutenant Martyn in search of the animals, suspecting them to be wild boars. We got near one of them, and fired several shots into the bush, and one at him as he went off among the long grass. When we returned to the tents, I learned by enquiring of the natives that the animals we had been in search of were not boars, but young lions; and they assured me that unless we kept a very good look out they would probably kill some of our cattle during the night. About midnight these young lions attempted to seize one of the asses, which so much alarmed the rest that they broke their ropes, and came at full gallop in amongst the tent ropes. Two of the lions followed them, and came so close to us that the sentry cut at one of them with his sword, but did not dare to fire for fear of killing the asses. Neglected to wind up the watch.

  July 3rd – Departed from Koeena, and halted during the heat of the day at Koombandi, distant six miles. Here the guides that I had hired from Kandy were to return; and I had agreed with them to carry back M‘Millan’s knapsack, and some amber and beads to purchase provisions for him; but three people came up to us with two asses for sale, and they informed me that they left Sanjeekotta early in the morning; that the soldier who was left there had died during the night, and the natives had buried him in a cornfield near the town. Purchased the asses in order to carry forwards the sick.

  About three o’clock left Koombandi. Mr Anderson and Mr Scott were so sick, that they wished to remain here for the night; with much entreating, persuaded them to mount their horses and go on. Three miles east of the village, William Alston, one of the seamen whom I received from His Majesty’s ship Squirrel, became so faint that he fell from his ass, and allowed the ass to run away. Set him on my horse, but found he could not sit without holding him. Replaced him on the ass, but he still tumbled off; put him again on the horse, and made one man keep him upright, while I led the horse. But as he made no exertion to keep himself erect, it was impossible to hold him on the horse, and after repeated tumbles he begged to be left in the woods till morning. I left a loaded pistol with him, and put some cartridges into the crown of his hat. At sunset reached Fonilla, a small walled village on the banks of the Wonda, which is here called Ba woolima (Red river), and towards its source it has the name of Ba qui (White river), the middle part of its course being called Wonda. It had swelled two feet perpendicular by the rains which had fallen to the southward, and was very muddy; but cannot even in its present state be reckoned a large river.

  July 4th – Agreed with the canoe people to carry over our baggage and cattle for sixty bars. There being but one canoe, it was near noon before all the bundles were carried over. The transporting of the asses was very difficult. The river being shallow and rocky, whenever their feet touched the bottom they generally stood still. Our guide, Isaaco, was very active in pushing the asses into the water, and shoving along the canoe; but as he was afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course of the day, he attempted to drive six of the asses across the river farther down where the water was shallower. When he had reached the middle of the river, a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly seizing him by the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful presence of mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger into its eye; on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the farther shore, calling out for a knife. But the crocodile returned and seized him by the other thigh, and again pulled him under water; he had recourse to the same expedient, and thrust his fingers into its eyes with such violence that it again quitted him; and when it rose, flounced about on the surface of the water as if stupid, and then swam down the middle of the river. Isaaco proceeded to the other side, bleeding very much. As soon as the canoe returned I went over, and found him very much lacerated. The wound on the left thigh was four inches in length; that on the right not quite so large, but very deep; besides several single teeth wounds on his back. Drew the lips of the wounds together with slips of adhesive plaster secured with a roller; and as we were not far from a village, he thought it best for him to go forwards before his wounds had become very painful. He accordingly rode forwards to the village of Boolinkoomboo on one of our horses. Found myself very sick, and unable to stand erect without feeling a tendency to faint; the people so sickly that it was with some difficulty we got the loads put into the tents, though it threatened rain. To my great astonishment, Ashton,* the sailor whom I had left in the woods the evening before, came up quite naked, having been stripped of his clothes by three of the natives during the night. Found his fever much abated.

  July 5th – With great difficulty got the asses loaded, but had not a sufficient number of spare asses for the sick. Set one of them on my horse, and walked, feeling a remission of the fever, though still very giddy and unwell. We soon reached Boolinkoomboo, it being only two miles from the landing-place. This village is sometimes called Moiaharra: it does not contain above one hundred people. On collecting the asses, found that three were missing, besides a sickly one, which was too weak to cross the river, and was eaten by the people of Fonilla. All this diminished our means of carrying forward the sick.

  I now found my situation very perplexing. To go forward without Isaaco to Keminoom, I knew, would involve us in difficulties; as Keminoom’s sons are reckoned the greatest thieves and blackguards on the whole route. To stop till Isaaco recovered (an event which seemed very doubtful), would throw us into the violence of the rains. There was no other person that I could trust; and, what was worst of all, we had only two days’ rice, and a great scarcity prevailed in the country. I determined to wait three days, to see how Isaaco’s wounds looked, and in the meantime sent two of his people away to Serracorra with an ass and three strings of No. 5 amber to purchase rice.

  July 6th – All the people either sick, or in a state of great debility, except one. Bought all the milk I could find, and boiled a camp kettle full of strong decoction of barks every day.

  July 7th – Dressed Isaaco’s wounds: they looked remarkably well.

  July 8th – Waiting very anxiously for the return of Isaaco’s people with the rice, being now on very short allowance.

  July 9th – In the afternoon Isaaco’s people returned, bringing with them 123 lb. of clean rice; Isaaco’s wounds looking well, and beginning to discharge good pus.

  July 10th – Departed from Boolinkoomboo, and eight miles north-east passed the village of Serrababoo; close to which is a stream called Kinyaco, about knee deep, running to the north-west. It was very difficult to cross, on account of the fissures in the rocks which form its bed. Several of the asses fell, and their loads were of course wet. From this we travelled due north, over a ridge of rocks, which formed the only passage across a chain of hills. When we had crossed this, we travelled six miles on a rocky and almost impassable road, and a little before sunset, to our great joy, reached Sabooseera (Dooty Matta). This is a scattered unwalled village. Latitude by mer. alt. of moon 13° 50’.

  *The name is thus written in Mr Park’s manuscript; but it seems to be a mistake for Alston.

  Chapter 4

  Arrival at Keminoom, or Manniakorro, on the Ba lee river – Visit to the chief – Depredations upon the coffle by the inhabitants – Continued attacks from banditti as far as the Ba woolima river – Difficulties in passing it – Temporary bridge made by the natives – Arrival at Mareena; inhospitable conduct of its inhabitants – Bangassi; interview with the king – Continued sickness, and deaths among the soldiers – Arrival at Nummasoolo – Obliged to leave five of the sick behind – Reach Surtaboo – Sobee – Affray between Isaaco and two soldiers – Balanding – Balandoo – More of the soldiers fall behind – Koolihori – Greatly annoyed by wolves.

  JULY 11TH – From Sabooseera, or Mallaboo, we travelled towards the west and north-west till noon, when we arrived at Keminoom, or Maniakorro. This is a walled town fortified in the strongest manner
I have yet seen in Africa.

  Pitched our tents under a tree near the Ba lee, which runs here with great velocity, and breaks into small cataracts.

  July 12th – Went in the morning with Isaaco and waited on Keminoom, or Mansa Numma, as he is commonly called.

  In the evening had such of the soldiers as were most healthy dressed in their red coats; and at Numma’s request went with them to the town, where they went through some movements, and fired.

  July 13th – Very desirous to be gone, as we found the people thieves to a man; in fact we have never yet been at a place where so much theft and impudence prevails. This can only be accounted for, by considering that Mansa Numma is the reputed father of more than thirty children; and as they all consider themselves as far above the common people, they treat every person with contempt, and even steal in the most open manner. By the side of the river are a great number of human bones (more than thirty skulls). On enquiring the reason, I was informed that Mansa Numma always inflicted capital punishments himself, and that the bones I saw were those of criminals. I had reason to regret, that capital punishments seldom or never extend to the real or reputed descendants of the king.

  July 14th – As soon as day dawned, struck the tents and loaded the asses. The townspeople gathered round us in crowds. They had stolen during our stay here four greatcoats, a large bundle of beads, a musket, a pair of pistols, and several other things. Before we had advanced a musket shot from the town (though we had one of the king’s sons on horseback as a protector), one of the townspeople carried away a bag from one of the asses, containing some things belonging to one of the soldiers. The king’s son, Lieutenant Martyn, and myself rode after him, and were lucky enough to come up with him, and recover the bag; but before we could rejoin the coffle, another had run off with a musket that was fastened on one of the loads.