Beyond NJ 9842

by Nitin A Gokhale

  Following SOPs (standard operating procedures) is the only trick that works.

  Col (retd) Danvir Singh concurs. He remembers when his battalion, 9 Sikh Light Infantry, was told that it would be going to the glacier, started training and preparing the soldiers both physically and mentally.

  “We started psychologically training a year in advance. Lots of photographs and video films were shown to the troops. We got officers and men who had previously been deployed on Siachen to come and speak to our boys. All their fears were addressed. Fear of crevasses, fear of frost bites. It was drilled into their minds that only training, training and training will keep them alive. When I went to the glacier as an advance liaison officer, I saw at first hand and narrated the experience to the boys. So by the time we were inducted, most of our troops were well aware of what they were getting into.”

  Driving a snow scooter across a crevasse

  Danvir said any battalion which can imbibe training requirements fully, survives and performs the best. “I was personally afraid of falling into a crevasse and sure enough I did while walking to Indira Col. But since all four of us were properly roped up and were following the SOPs, I came out safely,” he told me in Delhi one afternoon.

  The range of experiences that soldiers undergo is mind boggling. Capt Bharat, a young officer of 2 Bihar, narrating his experience in walking up to a post called Pehalwan, reputedly the closest post to a Pakistani post on the central glacier, recalled how the 20-member patrol party has to walk according to everybody’s convenience. “People realise that individually no one can survive the glacier. It is team work that matters.”

  “One incident I cannot forget is that during my stay there was an accident on the Pakistani post just about 350 metres away from our post. Their tent caught fire and was reduced to ashes in a matter of minutes. Since we were so close, we shouted across to check if we could help. They declined. Of course, help fetched up for them but I must say, unlike in our case where helicopters fly to every post almost daily, in their case, I saw helicopters coming to their post only twice during my 110 day stay at Pehelwan. When you compare their facilities with ours, one feels proud of our system and our Army,” the young, barely in his mid-twenties, Captain tells me at the Base Camp.

  Col Danvir Singh Chauhan

  But no matter how many attempts are made to increase comfort levels, there are some posts where lack of space creates its own problems. Gen Hasnain recalls: “At the the Bana listening post, located on the peak of the Bana saddle, the bunker used to be wide enough to have an ice bed as wide as a 3-tier berth in Indian railways. So an officer and a soldier who form the total strength of that post, slept with their legs over one another. The officer would get the first turn to put his legs over the jawan’s. After a while the jawan would tell the officer, ‘sahab bahut ho gaya, ab jyada weight ho raha hai. Ab thodi der ke liye mein paon upar rakhta hoon (Sir, it is unbearable. Now my legs will rest on yours for a while)!”

  Many such tales remain to be shared but one thing is clear, that over the past three decades the bond between the Saltoro and the Soldier has deepened. The inhospitable terrain of Siachen brings the best out of the Indian military. All that the soldier asks for is that the nation keeps faith in him. And give him the respect and dignity he deserves.

  MY SIACHEN DIARY

  Brig. Abhijit Bapat

  In July 2007, me and a cameraperson colleague from NDTV, Manoj Thakur had travelled to Siachen Base Camp to make a film on Siachen. Later that year, the first civilian trek on Siachen in many years was being permitted by the Army. We spent four days on the Base Camp, living with the 5/9 Gorkha Rifles unit, then commanded by Col. Abhijit Bapat and his merry men. We ate meals with them, looked at their routine, spoke with the soldiers and officers alike, trying to absorb what it takes to be on Siachen. The film can be viewed here: A 20 minute film obviously cannot capture the range of experiences and emotions that the soldiers go through on Siachen. I therefore requested Abhijit, now a Brigadier again posted in Ladakh, to pen down his most memorable experience. Read what he chose to focus on!

  “Yeh Labz – E – Mohabbat, Bas Itna Sa Fasana Hai,

  Simte Toh Dil – E – Aashiq, Nahi Toh Zamana Hai,”

  This couplet comes to mind, as one slowly makes one’s way on the Siachen glacier, panting and gasping for breath. The icy and subzero weather conditions along with the huge mass of pure ‘white’ for as long as one can see, beckons the MAN in every individual. It brings out certain emotions and a sense of sacrifice which cannot be described in words. For every man who serves there, breathes the pristine and pure Himalayan air, it is an episode to remember for a lifetime.

  It is an extremely humbling experience as one gets to see the immense power of Nature, and, the manner in which it is able to overwhelm whatever the puny ‘human mind and body’ is able to put across. It is also the ultimate test for both – man and machine, in their quest for survival.

  My story is about a soldier and his sacrifice and courage under extreme stress and duress, that, one feels during a tour of duty on the Siachen glacier.

  Abhijit Bapat with the then Army Chief Gen J.J. Singh

  It highlights the true glory and the bedrock of an Indian Soldier’s fighting efficiency – regimentation. It is a word from which a soldier fighting for his country derives true inspiration and strength, the will to make the requisite sacrifices, and, the courage of conviction to do the Harder Right than the Easier Wrong. The Siachen glacier projects a radiant aura, and, also has a certain glamour associated with it. But all that would lose sheen, had it not been for the courage and indomitable spirit of our valiant soldiers who man it, protect it and make the supreme sacrifice in order to defend it.

  The Saga of Havildar Man Bahadur

  Man Bahadur was recruited in the Army in 1993 and was an able and sincere soldier. This hardy mountain boy belonged to a remote area bordering Sikkim and West Bengal. The natural hardships had toughened him physically and mentally. He was extremely meticulous and hardworking, and soon gained the confidence and respect of his subordinates, peers and seniors alike. His abilities made him stand out, and he was always at the helm of most of the responsibilities meted out to a person of his age and service bracket. As is generally the case, his mother found him a suitable bride after he had completed five years of service. Soon, Man Bahadur was blessed with twins. Having lost his father at an early age, Man Bahadur was very close to his family, especially to his mother. He slowly rose up the ranks, and was rewarded for his professionalism when he was made a Havildar in 2006.

  Man Bahadur’s unit was inducted onto the icy Himalayan heights of Eastern Ladakh in September 2006. With his customary enthusiasm, Man Bahadur quickly learnt the method of operating in the hostile climate and terrain of the Karakoram Ranges. He was the guiding beacon for his subordinates and a source of inspiration for his peers. He volunteered to serve in a location that is probably the highest conflict location on this globe – Bana Post. The tenure was for a period of four months including time taken for induction and de-induction. Meticulous preparations are made by every individual, as it was an onerous responsibility. Daily sustenance is done through previously stocked rations. Otherwise individually, a very systematic plan has to be made, as all personal requirements for the entire period have to be catered for. These include personal clothing, reading and writing material, hygiene and sanitation arrangements, and the mandatory medical, as well as, insurance formalities.

  The complete load has to be packed and balanced in such a manner, that the trek on the glacier until the final destination, is smooth and without a hitch. Depending upon the weather and climatic conditions, such treks can take anything up to 10 to 12 days or more.

  The Tragedy

  A day prior to the date of induction, the unit received a telegram. It was meant for Havildar Man Bahadur. It stated that a serious epidemic had struck his village. It had claimed the life of his beloved Mother. His wife and twins were also seriously ill, with bo
th the children in particular, being critical. The entire unit and its hierarchy were shocked with the sudden tragic turn of events. He was advised and permitted to proceed on leave by all his superiors.

  Abhijit Bapat (centre) with Gen J.J. Singh and

  Defence Minister A.K. Antony

  Havildar Man Bahadur did not utter a word on hearing the news. There was not a flicker of emotion on his face!! Nobody realized that he was made of sterner stuff!! In the evening, his superiors asked him to fill up his leave dates so that he could proceed on leave the next day. But, Havildar Man Bahadur refused to do so. Everybody was surprised and also worried. Havildar Man Bahadur was then taken to his superior officers, as it was felt that he probably wanted to share something personal with them. Or, probably he wanted some financial assistance which he was too embarrassed to talk about openly.

  The ‘Real’ Man Bahadur

  On being asked as to why he had refused to proceed on leave, the reply that was given by Havildar Man Bahadur stunned everybody present there – senior and junior alike. He said, “Sahib, my mother is already dead and gone ten days back. The telegram has taken so long to reach. It will take me a minimum of seven days to reach home from here after I start tomorrow. By the time I am able to reach home, even the rituals which are to be done 13 days after the demise, will be over. As far as my wife and children are concerned Sahib, God gave them to me. I am sure that he will keep them safe for me. Today, the unit has entrusted me with a responsibility. How can I let my seniors and juniors down? Life and death are two sides of the same coin. I too could fall in a crevasse during my tour of duty and die. So are we going to stop doing what we are supposed to do? Sahib, I would like to be inducted as has been planned. There will be no effect on my performance, I wish to assure you. My only request is that I be permitted to go on my full authorized leave on completion of my tenure on the Siachen glacier.”

  Everybody present in the room was stunned and too shocked to speak. In today’s materialistic world, where anybody and everybody, looks for quick success and an easy life, here was a rare human being. The sincerity and devotion to duty displayed by Havildar Man Bahadur on that day was something that would be cherished by the unit. Havildar Man Bahadur completed his tour of duty in the most gallant and sincere manner. He was also decorated for his outstanding achievements.

  As I said earlier, the Siachen glacier witnesses such tales of sacrifice and courage, almost on a daily basis. Some do get reported and publicized, but most of them remain under wraps. This was one such tale which has not got the deserved publicity. You could not have found a better person than I, to narrate this story, as I was blessed to have commanded soldiers like Havildar Man Bahadur on the highest, coldest and I dare say, the toughest battlefield on this planet. It has been an exhilarating and humbling experience serving on the Siachen glacier, as well as narrating this tale.

  It changed my outlook to life in general, and, increased my respect for the profession of soldiering. Sometimes, as I look back at the years gone by, and I wonder to myself – Do I really know the men I command today, or have already had the privilege to command. I close with a couplet from a well-known poet:

  Hamne Mohabbat karna Nahi Sikha,

  Aapne Mohabbat ke Alawa kuch Nahi Seekha,

  Zindagi jeene ke Sirf Do hi Pahalu hai Ghalib

  Ek Aapne nahi Seekha, Ek Hamne Nahi Seekha

  THE LEGEND OF OP BABA

  During the making of the film on the life of soldiers before they head to the glacier, Manoj and I were looking for, what Manoj called an ‘opening shot,’ a scene which would show the human side of tough soldiers. In the first 24 hours, we could find nothing unusual. The soldiers were of course training at the Siachen Base Camp in the day, playing basketball in the evening, writing letters and generally carrying out daily chores even as helicopters came and went, either emptying a load or lifting essentials for the higher posts. That night just before hitting bed, Manoj in fact sounded worried: “Sir, ek killer sequence abhi mila nahi hein!” My reply was: “Tum dhund hi loge, Manoj.”

  The OP Baba shrine

  Myth? Reality? No one knows

  Call it luck, or call it OP Baba’s benevolence, next day, a column of the Gorkha unit we were staying with, was descending from the Northern glacier after the three month mandatory stay. As the soldiers trudged down in single file, their white snow clothing now almost black, faces tanned and framed by unkempt beards, Manoj started shooting their return. Silhouetted against the imposing mountains, the single file of soldiers looked absolutely tiny. That is when Abhijit Bapat, then commanding the unit—now a Brigadier—told me about a ritual his soldiers were about to complete. “They will now head to the temple there,” he said pointing to the complex at some distance “and report to OP Baba before coming and giving me the debrief,” Abhijit said. I was intrigued. Which other army does this, I wondered, as Manoj and I headed to what looked like a temple, as we neared the area.

  An officer praying to OP Baba

  And temple it indeed was.

  Temple of OP Baba.

  Capt Tarun Tiwari (who must be much senior by now) led his soldiers inside the temple, bowed in front of a bust, shouted “OP Baba ki jai,” and stood in silence for a minute. So did all the returning soldiers. They were all thanking OP Baba for their safe return from the glacier.

  So who is OP Baba?

  A board at the temple complex reads: “The true origin of the legend of OP Baba shrine remains obscured in the mist and frozen mass of the Siachen glacier. The shrine itself originated in the Malaun Post Bila complex in the northern glacier in the late 1980s. As legend goes, a soldier named Om Prakash was instrumental in single-handedly beating back an enemy attack on Malaun post, while soldiers of the post had been temporarily called to the rear headquarters. Who the soldier Om Prakash was, and what became of him is the mystery of the legend.

  A soldier’s silent prayer

  “It is the firm belief of the troops that the soldier Saint Om Prakash, fondly revered as OP Baba, is their Guardian Deity who protects them not only from the depredations of nature on the glacier, but also from the enemy by forewarning them of impending dangers by appearing in their dreams. A formal military report is given to OP Baba by the troops prior to and on accomplishment of every mission on the glaciers. So strong is the faith in OP Baba that all troops pledge to give up consumption of alcohol and tobacco during their stay on the glacier.”

  The faith in the shrine of OP Baba is almost fanatical for soldiers posted at the Base Camp of the Siachen glacier. Built near the snout of the glacier in 1996, elaborate ceremonies are performed as soon as a soldier finishes his posting of 90 days on the glacier, something allotted by rotation. Living under sub-zero conditions on a mass of ice can be fatal, or cause loss of limbs or eye-sight or even sanity even amongst the most hardened even when all precautions are taken and right training imparted. Coming back from the glacier intact is a cause for celebration.

  In the shrine complex, there are statues of deities surrounding OP Baba’s bust. There is a simple red flag with Jai OP Baba written on it. Muslims, Buddhist, Hindus, Sikhs, soldiers of all faiths come and pray here. No one thinks twice.

  Many other myths abound. Stories are passed on from one unit to the other. Posted at forbidding heights, soldiers need to keep faith in someone and something. OP Baba fulfils that need. Many believe that disobeying OP Baba brings death. In October 2013 when visiting the Base Camp, a soldier narrated the story of a Doctor who had fallen into a crevasse and could not be rescued. Two months later, his parents came visiting the Base Camp and wanted the army to search for him. A local porter volunteered to look for the doctor’s body. As he went inside the crevasse, the porter located the doctor’s body. But, as he tried to pull the doctor out, other bodies in the crevasse also suddenly came alive and whispered in the porter’s ear: “we also want to come out.” The terrified porter abandoned his mission then and there and ran for his life!

  Apparently, those who disobe
y OP Baba, suffer. Sometimes a simple act like kick starting the snow scooter, or a generator becomes difficult for a variety of reasons, but soldiers believe if they pray to OP Baba, these problems are instantly overcome!

  The army never questions the simple faith of these simple soldiers.

  The guns blazing away in 1990.

  Thankfully, they are now silent

  A gun position

  Terrifying chasm!

  Keeping weapons in working condition is a major task

  X

  The Tale of Three Battles

  ‘I don’t care what sacrifices we have to make’

  Three years after the Indian Army seized Bilafond La and Sia La and then consolidated its presence on the Gyong La, a platoon of Pakistan’s Special Services Group (SSG), the commando force, through a fine feat of mountaineering managed to occupy the southern shoulder of Bilafond La Pass, also known as the ‘left shoulder. At 21, 184 feet, the huge massif dominates the entire Bilafond La, area. An observation post on top of this feature gives a clear view right up to 20 km on either side. The Pakistanis had occupied the peak without the Indians at Bilafond La or on the Amar and Sonam posts, getting wind of the operation and named it Quaid Post, after the founder of Pakistan, Mohammad Ali Jinnah.