Save the Deli
Page 30
(416) 542-9471
Reubens’ (since closed)
10 Bay St
Toronto, ON M5J 2R8
(416) 861-0175
Shopsy’s
33 Yonge St
Toronto, ON M5E 1G4
(416) 365-3333
www.shopsys.ca
Yitz’s
346 Eglinton Ave W
Toronto, ON M5N 1A2
(416) 487-4508
www.yitzs.ca
Chapter 16—London: God Save the Deli
B&K Salt Beef Bar
11 Lanson House
London HA8 6NL
+44 20 8952 8204
Bevis Marks Kosher Restaurant
4 Heneage Lane
London EC3A 5DQ
+44 20 7283 2220
www.bevismarks-therestaurant.com
Bloom’s (various)
130 Golders Green Rd
London NW11 8HB
+44 020 8455 1338
313 Hale Lane
Edgware, Middlesex HA8 7AX
+44 020 8958 2229
7 Montague St
Bloomsbury
London WC1B 5
+44 020 7323 1717
The Brass Rail Salt Beef Bar
400 Oxford St
London W1A 1AB
+44 800 123400
Brick Lane Beigel Bake
159 Brick Lane, Tower Hamlets
London E1 6SB
+44 020 7729 0616
Britain’s First and Best Beigel Shop
155 Brick Lane, Spitalfields
London E1 6SB
+44 020 7729 0826
Harry Morgan
29-31 St. Johns Wood
High Street
London NW8 7NH
+44 020 7722 1869
www.harryms.co.uk
6 Market Place
Oxford Circus
London W1W 8AF
+44 020 7580 4849
Reuben’s
79 Baker St, Marylebone
London W1U 6RG
+44 020 7486 0035
Chapter 17—The Fine Art of Jewish Delicatessen in Belgium and Paris
Chez Gilles
Rue de la Clinique 21
Anderlecht, Brussels, Belgium
+ 32 02 523 94 22
Hoffy’s
Lange Kievitstraat 52
2018 Antwerpen, Belgium
+ 32 03 234 35 35
Chez Marianne
2 rue Hospitalières St Gervais,
75004
4th Arrondissement
Paris, France
+ 33 1 42 72 18 86
Dimitri Panzer
26 rue des Rosiers, 75004
4th Arrondissement—le Marais
Paris, France
+ 33 1 40 27 82 75
Florence Finkelstajn
24 rue des Ecouffes, 75004
4th Arrondissement—le Marais
Paris, France
+33 1 48 87 12 20
Jo Goldenberg (since closed)
7 rue des Rosiers, 75004
4th Arrondissement—le Marais
Paris, France
+33 1 48 87 20 16
Maison David
6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004
4th Arrondissement—le Marais
Paris, France
+33 1 42 78 15 76
Sacha Finkelsztajn
27 rue des Rosiers, 75004
4th Arrondissement—le Marais
Paris, France
+ 33 1 42 72 78 91
www.finkelsztajn.com
Chapter 18—Krakow: Heartburn from Poland’s Tortured Past
Alef
31-071 Kraków, ul. wi tej Agnieszki 5
Krakow
+48 12 424 31 31
www.alef.pl
Ariel
31-053 Kraków, ul. Szeroka 18
Krakow
+48 12 421 79 20
www.ariel-krakow.pl
Klezmer Hois
Kazimierz, 31-053 Kraków, ul.
Szeroka 6
Krakow
+48 12 411 12 45
www.klezmer-hois.cracow.pl
Acknowledgments
It takes a lot of people to Save the Deli, so let’s start rolling the credits. Thanks to Mitch Dermer for being insane enough to write a term paper on the sociology of the Jewish delicatessen business with me, and then being sane enough to head off to law school before it was too late. Thanks as well to Professor Morton Weinfeld at McGill for giving Dermer and me such a good mark. If we’d gotten a B, I’m not so sure you’d be reading this now.
I owe a debt to Rabbi Jon Moscowitz, who put me into the hands of Canada’s premiere agent, Michael Levine, a true dynamo. Michael understood the idea right away, and within a day he had a pending deal with Doug Pepper. Pepper, a dapper deli lover at the helm of McClelland and Stewart in Toronto, deserves twelve ounces of mustard-slathered gratitude, not only for taking a chance on me by buying the book, but for seeing me through damn near three years of research and writing, and answering the endless questions of a first time author. Doug, you’re not only a great publisher, but a good friend.
Infinite amounts of praise should be showered on Jenna Johnson, the editor at Harcourt (now Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) who brought this book to New York, deli’s heartland. Throughout the long editing process Jenna never shied away from her opinions (not to mention her trusty red pen), and always asked the tough questions that needed to be raised. Ultimately, this is a stronger, more enjoyable book because of her brilliant direction at every step along the way. Someone ought to name a sandwich after her.
The other editor to whom I owe an incalculable debt is Jenny Bradshaw in Toronto, whose name should adorn each and every comma-and-hyphen in these pages. Jenny bore much of the heavy lifting during the later stages of editing and design. Her attention to detail, patience, and willingness to try anything is what editors everywhere should aspire to.
Thanks to Lori Glazer and Taryn Roeder at HMH and Ashley Dunn at M&S (and the respective sales and marketing folks at both) for your work in spreading the word, to Marilyn Biderman for selling the heck out of it, to the legendary Carolyn Hessel at the Jewish Book Council for putting me onto the Jewish book circuit, and to Roger Bennett and the Reboot Crew for every link in the chain.
I cannot express enough gratitude to all the deli owners I met over the past three years who sat down with me, piled a table with food, and let me into your lives. Meeting you all was the greatest benefit that came out of this process, and I sincerely thank each and every one of you for your help and generosity. I especially want to thank Lorne Pancer, the Lebewohl family, Sy Ginsberg, Ziggy Gruber, and Michel Kalifa, for allowing me to call repeatedly and answering each and every question I had about the business. Zay gezunt to you all.
I also need to thank the readers and fans of savethedeli.com, who have sustained my passion for this beyond even what I expected. You are tireless and dedicated, and that love has brought deli back from the brink. Special praise belongs to my old friend Daniel Malen, who not only designed savethedeli.com, but also the logo that adorns this book’s cover. Purchase a “Pastrami Mommy” thong in his honor.
Whenever I was away from home, I was fortunate enough to have friends who lent me a hand. Foremost is Chris Farber, who not only let me live in his illegal matzo factory of a Brooklyn apartment (it’s true) for a month in 2006, but who also joined me on countless deli trips around New York and Europe. I’m honored that your incredible photographs adorn the pages here. Thanks also to Adam Caplan, who endured two years of my insanity with the utmost class.
And now, to all those whose couches I crashed on, or who gave me a hand during work on this book, let me give thanks: Asher Lack, Dara Zarnett, Jake and Joanne Bogoch, Jamie Lawson and Amy Anderson, David Katznelson, Marni Kinrys, Tom Miller, Eric Katz, David and Sara Wilson, Jems Peskin, Hugo Alconada, Ben Leszcz, Stephen Rothstein, Eiran Harris, Louis Berkowitz, Aaron Gilboe and Ariadne Siotis, Robert Gadek, Rachel Kaplan, and Clive Be
ttington. Your generosity made my travels an absolute pleasure. A sandwich in each of your names.
Most importantly I have to thank my family, without whom I am nothing. Mom, Dad (and Fuzz), you gave me my passion for deli from an early age, and not only taught me to love what I do, but afforded me every opportunity to do so in life with love and the utmost support.
Lauren, you and I started dating right before I ventured down this schmaltz-filled road, and you’ve somehow stuck with me every step of the way. I cannot imagine how difficult that was. You are brilliant and beautiful and a calming force. Without your love, I’m not sure I could have done this. In the sandwich of my life, you are the bread that holds me together.
Index
A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z
2nd Ave Deli (new), New York, 267–73, 275–79
2nd Ave Deli (original), New York: atmosphere, 66–67; closure, 58, 62–64, 67–71; history, 64–66; inspiration for other restaurants, 49; staff, 44
3G’s Deli, Delray Beach, Florida, 175
4th Street Deli, Philadelphia, 75
A
A&W, 220
Abfelbaum, Nusia, 126–27
Abie’s Delicatessen, Montreal, 208–9
Abramoff, Jack, 172–73
Abramovich, Roman, 237
Abrams, Hyman, 148
Abu Nidal, 244
Acme Bakery, San Francisco, 123
Adelman’s, New York, 274
African-Americans: in Detroit, 77, 81–82, 87; in Missouri, 112; in the Deep South, 169
Agelopoulos, John, 209–10
Agelopoulos, Sam, 209, 216–17
Alban’s, Detroit, 77
Alef (restaurant), Krakow, 261–62
Ali, Muhammed, 172
Allen, Gracie, 31
Amsterdam, Morey, 31
Ann Arbor, Michigan, 80, 88–92, 274
Antwerp, Belgium, 241–42, 274
Anzman, Fred, 115–17
Apfelbaum, David, 126–30, 140, 264
Arabs, as deli workers, 159
Archie B’s, Hong Kong, 192
Arfin, Kenneth, 235
Arfin, Susan, 235
Argentina, 191
Ariel (art gallery and restaurant), Krakow, 256–58, 261
Arizona, 274
Arnie and Richie’s, Miami Beach, 178
Artie’s Delicatessen, New York, 39
Art’s, Los Angeles, 133, 140
Ashkenazi Jews: food history, 22–23, 25; in Chicago, 95; in Europe, 22; in Poland, 252, 253, 264; outside United States, 192, 229
Asians, as deli workers, 159
Asnas, Max, 31
Atlanta, Georgia, 169–70
Attman’s, Baltimore, 74–75, 171
Auerbach, Steve, 54–55, 60–61, 153
Auschwitz, Poland, 254, 262–63
Austin, Fred, 8–10, 14, 17–18
Austin, Texas, 160–62
Avalon Deli, Detroit, 77
Aventura, Florida, 175, 179
B
B&K Salt Beef Bar, London, England, 227–28
baby beef, 218
Bagel Cove, Aventura, Florida, 179
Bagel Deli, Denver, 113, 118
bagels: in England, 230–31; in Florida, 179–80
Ball, Lucille, 146
Baltimore, Maryland, 74
Baltimore Deli, Washington, D.C., 171
Barney’s, Toronto, 215
Barnum and Bagel Restaurant, Chicago, 99–100
Baylos, Gene, 31
Beatles, 146
Beauchemin, Robert, 201
Bebovitz, Art, 143
Beck, Charise, 221
Beck, Hy, 221
Becker, Esther, 111
Becker, Isadore, 111
Becker’s, Toronto, 214
Beitel, Gary, 196
Belgium, 240–42, 274
Belsky, Al, 114–15
Belsky, Victoria, 114
Benigier, Janusz, 261
Benisti, Gilles, 240
Benisti, Nadia, 239–40
Benny, Jack, 31
Ben’s Best, New York, 44
Ben’s Deli, New York, 40, 44
Ben’s Delicatessen, Montreal, 195, 204–6
Ben’s Kosher Deli, Boca Raton, Florida, 187
Berenholc, Billy, 203–4
Berenholc, Eddie, 203
Berger, Ida, 44, 67, 268
Berger’s, New York, 44, 163
Berle, Milton, 31, 172
Bernstein’s on Essex, New York, 26, 52
Bessin Corporation, 97
Best Deli, Palm Beach, Florida, 186
Best’s Kosher, Chicago, 77, 95, 97
Bette (co-owner of Kaufman’s), 99–100
Betty (author’s cousin), 226
Bevis Marks, London, England, 235
Big Mamma, Buenos Aires, 191
Birkenau, Poland, 262–64
Blintzes Inn, Chicago, 98
Bloom, Morris, 229
Bloom, Rebecca, 229
Bloom’s Delicatessen, London, England, 226, 229–30
Boca Raton, Florida, 175, 183, 187
Boston, Massachusetts, 74
Boulder, Colorado, 118–20, 151, 274
Boulud, Daniel, 37
Boynton Beach, Florida, 175
The Brass Rail, London, England, 231, 234
Braverman (man with corned beef recipe), 110
Braverman’s, Chicago, 99
Bread Basket, Michigan, 81–82
Brick Lane Beigel Bake, London, England, 230–31
brisket: costs, 56–57; production process, 77–79, 112; sales, 58
British American Delicatessen Store, Montreal, 195
Bronfman, Jacob, 26
Brooklyn Commercial Bakery, New York, 34
Brooklyn’s Acme, New York, 115
Brooks, Mel, 31, 135–36
Brother’s, Detroit, 77
Brother’s, New York, 8
Brother’s Manhattan Deli, San Francisco, 123
Brown, Jay, 185
Brown, Joel, 166–68
Brown, Natalie, 166–67
Brownstein, Bill, 196
Bruce, Lenny, 146
Brussels, Belgium, 239–40
Buenos Aires, Argentina, 191
Burlington, Vermont, 74
Burns, George, 31
Butcher’s Journal and Delicatessen Magazine, 27
C
Caesar, Sid, 31
Cafeteria Boris, Havana, Cuba, 192
California Street Delicatessen, San Francisco, 124
Cane, David Michael, 123–24
Cane, Rachel, 123–24
Canter, Ben, 145
Canter, Gary, 145–47, 156–57
Canter, Jerry, 145
Canter, Marc, 146
Canter Brothers Delicatessen, Los Angeles, 137, 145–47
Canter’s Delicatessen, Las Vegas, 147, 150, 156–57
Caplansky, Zane, 274–75
Caplansky’s Delicatessen, Toronto, 275
Carl’s Delicatessen, Chicago, 98
Carnegie Delicatessen, Las Vegas, 150, 154–57
Carnegie Delicatessen, New York: atmosphere, 44; author’s childhood trips to, 37; clientele, 31, 135; history and future, 273; non-kosher, 30; owner, 42; property costs, 54–55; sandwich size, 60; sells product to other delis, 115–16
Cel-Ray soda, 27, 136
Centre Street Deli, Toronto, 209, 216–17
Chaim’s Kosher Baker and Deli, Chicago, 99–100
Charleston, South Carolina, 169
Charlie (night manager at Katz’s), 6–7, 13, 18–19
Chernick, Jonas, 137
Chez Gilles, Brussels, 241, 242
Chez Panisse, San Francisco, 123
Chicago: deli history and future, 98–100, 103, 107, 274; downtown, 101, 103; Jewish population, 95, 97–99; meat history, 95–97
cholent, 251–52
Chris (friend of author), 241, 246
Clayton, Misso
uri, 109–11, 113
Cleveland, Ohio, 74
Climan, Sandy, 133
Clinton, Bill, 15
Cohen, Carl, 148
Cohen, Daniel, 247
Cohen, Myron, 149
Cohen, Steve, 68, 71, 267–68, 276
Cohen, Wolfie, 183
Coleman’s Deli, Toronto, 218, 225
Colgate-Palmolive, 58
Colorado, 108, 118–20, 151, 274
ConAgra Foods, Michigan and Nebraska, 58–59
Consolidated Foods Corporation, 97
Cooperativa, Havana, Cuba, 192
Corky and Lenny’s, Cleveland, 74
corned beef, production process, 77–80, 217
Corsun, Max, 149
Cosell, Howard, 35, 172
Crest Hill Kosher, New York, 163
Crosby, Bing, 146
Cutler, Irving, 97–99
Czulent (youth group in Poland), 260–61
D
Daley, Richard M., 101
Dalitz, Moe, 148
Dallas, Texas, 161
Daniel (friend of author), 246
Darby’s, Detroit, 77
David (counterman at 2nd Ave), 268
David Berg and Company, Detroit, 97
David’s Delicatessen, Los Angeles, 140
David’s Delicatessen, San Francisco, 127–30
David’s Old World Brand Pastrami, San Francisco, 123–24
Davis, Evelyn, 194
Davis, Stanley, 194
Dekel, Yuval, 42
Deli Tech, Denver, 115–16, 118, 155
Delicatessen Dealers’ Association of Greater New York, 163–64
delicatessens (see also specific deli names): as gathering places, 21, 40–41, 45–48, 136; and celebrities, 30–31, 35, 44–45, 132–37, 146, 172, 237; clientele, 30–31, 35, 44–45, 132–37, 146, 171–72, 201, 237–38; corporate, 183–89; decor and atmosphere, 41–42; economics of business, 53–61; food comforts and joys, 38–41, 137; and healthy food trends, 13, 38, 68, 107, 120, 137, 219, 222–23, 273; history and future, 5, 8, 22–36, 273–75, 279; kosher, 22–23, 27–30, 35, 52–53, 58; list of, 285–95; non-kosher, 29–30, 31–32, 36; owners and staff, 31, 42–44, 159–60; and supermarket competition, 33–34
Dell, Alan, 8–9, 14, 17–18
Delray Beach, Florida, 175