Book Read Free

Save the Deli

Page 31

by David Sax


  DeMille, Cecil B., 132

  Denver, 113–18, 274

  Dershowitz, Alan, 12

  Detroit: deli history and future, 80–81, 85, 274; inner city, 80–82; Jewish immigration and emigration, 77; rye breads, 83

  Diamond, Hy, 200

  DiMaggio, Joe, 31

  Dimitri, Panzer, 244–45

  Dion, Celine, 201

  Dr. Brown’s sodas, 26–27

  Dragoon, Ronnie, 40, 44, 187

  Drapkin’s, San Francisco, 126

  Driver, Minnie, 237

  Duke Zeibert’s, Washington, D.C., 271–72

  Duncan, Nate, 98

  Dunn’s, Montreal, 215

  Dunn’s, Toronto, 215

  Dworkin, Arnold, 99–100

  Dworkin, Judy, 99–100

  E

  East Side Kosher Deli, Denver, 113

  Eat This Deli, Rogers, Arkansas, 114

  Economy Deli, Atlanta, 169

  Eggers, Jarrett “Jimmy,” 118–20

  Eisen, Harry, 218

  Eisenberg, Chicago, 95

  Eisland brothers, 8

  El and Lee Deli, St. Louis, 109

  Eleven City Diner, Chicago, 101–6

  Eli’s, St. Louis, 109

  Eli’s Cheesecake, Chicago, 95

  Elway, John, 115

  Empire National, 56–59, 268, 277

  Encino, California, 183

  England, 229–33, 237–38, 274

  Entratter, Jack, 148

  Ephron, Nora, 141

  Epicure Market, South Beach, Florida, 182, 183

  Esquire Deli, Detroit, 77

  Essex On Coney, New York, 52–53

  Everest Restaurant, Chicago, 105

  F

  Factor, Al, 143

  Factor’s Deli, Los Angeles, 133–34, 135, 140

  Famous Deli, Philadelphia, 75

  Farber, Christopher, 40

  Fashion Luncheonette, New York, 114

  Faye (waitress at 2nd Ave), 268

  Feingold’s, Los Angeles, 135

  Fernandez, Alfredo (Freddo), 12–13

  Ferris, Marcie Cohen, 166

  Fingerhut, Herb, 99–101

  Finkel, Fyvush, 63–64

  Finkelsztajn, Sacha, 245

  Firestone, Sam, 221

  Fishman’s, St. Louis, 109

  Flamingo, Las Vegas, 148

  Florida: deli history and future, 178–80, 274; Jewish community, 175, 176–78; numbers of delis, 175–76

  Foer, Franklin, 171

  Fox, Abe, 149

  Foxy’s Delicatessen, Las Vegas, 149

  France: deli history and future, 244, 249–50, 274; Jewish community, 243–44

  Freedland, Jonathan, 232

  French Canadians and delis, 201–2, 210

  Friedman, Barry, 68

  Friedman, Kenny, 164

  Friedman, Kinky, 161

  Friedman’s, New York, 68

  Frisco’s, Washington, D.C., 171

  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida, 175, 180

  G

  Gadek, Robert, 256, 259

  Gelberman, Dave, 219, 221

  Gellis, Isaac, 23–24, 26

  Georgiou, Bambos, 227

  Georgiou, John, 227–28

  Georgiou, Katarina, 227

  Georgiou, Michael, 227

  Gerwitz’s, Chicago, 98

  Gino (counterman at Manny’s), 94

  Ginsberg, Sy, 76–82, 89, 91–92, 96, 162, 274

  Ginsburg, Art, 133, 140

  Ginzburg, Leo, 143

  Giuliani, Rudy, 35

  Godrej, India, 97

  Goldberg, Harriet, 83

  Goldberg, Jack, 82–83

  Goldberg, Steve, 83–84, 87

  Goldenberg, Albert, 244

  Goldenberg, Jo, 242–43, 244

  Goldenberg, Joseph, 244

  Goldenberg’s, Toronto, 214

  Goldman, Anat, 159–60

  Goldman, Gregory, 159–60

  Goldman, Rozalia, 159

  Goldman, Sam, 159

  Goldman’s Deli, Scottsdale, Arizona, 159–60

  Gold’s, Atlanta, 169

  Gold’s, Chicago, 98

  Goldstein, Gene, 143

  Goldstein, Joyce, 124

  Goldstein’s, Memphis, 169

  Goldwyn, Samuel, 132

  Goncalves, Joao “Johnny,” 197–98

  goose necks, stuffed, 258

  Goren, Drew, 40

  Gottlieb, Joseph, 21

  Gottlieb, Menashe, 21–22

  Gottlieb’s, New York, 21–22, 274

  Gottlieb’s, Savannah, Georgia, 169

  Gourmet Shop, Miami Beach, 177

  Greenberg’s Deli, Las Vegas, 152–53

  Greenblatt’s, Los Angeles, 134, 139–40

  Greenwald’s, Los Angeles, 135

  gribenes, 269

  Gruber, Ziggy, 162–65, 274

  Guggenheim Deli, Houston, Texas, 164

  Gulden’s Spicy Brown Mustard, 26, 58

  Guns N’ Roses, 146

  Guttman, Irving, 85

  Guttman, Rose, 84–87, 165, 264

  H

  H. Weinberg and Sons, New York, 56

  Haberman, Ron, 114

  Haim, Abie, 208–9

  Harmenstein, Joe, 143

  Harold’s, New Jersey, 75

  Harris, Eiran, 195

  Harry Morgan’s, London, England, 235–37

  Hassan, Tam, 234

  Hassan, Az, 234

  The Hat, Los Angeles, 132

  Havana, Cuba, 192

  Hebrew National Kosher Sausage Factory Inc., New York, 58–59, 96

  Heidi’s Brooklyn Deli, Denver, 116–18

  Helmreich, William, 45–46

  Henderson, Nevada, 150–51, 157, 274

  Hendrix, Jimi, 146

  Henry’s, New York, 8

  Hernandez, Carrie, 138–39

  Hernandez, Marc, 138–39

  Hersh’s, Detroit, 77

  Highley, Peter, 222–23

  Hirsch, Herb, 126

  Hirsh, David, 137

  Hispanics, as deli workers, 159–60

  Hoffa, Jimmy, 172

  Hoffberg’s, Washington, D.C., 171

  Hoffman, Moishe, 241–42

  Hoffy’s, Antwerp, Belgium, 241–42, 274

  Hollywood, Florida, 175

  Holzmark, Jim, 111–13

  Hong Kong, 192

  Hoover, J. Edgar, 172

  Houston, Texas, 160–61, 162–65

  I

  I Love New York Deli, Seattle, 74

  Icyk, Bryan, 216

  Icyk, Henry, 216

  Indianapolis, Indiana, 3, 74

  Irving’s Deli, Detroit, 85

  Israel: ancient Jewish history, 22; lack of delis, 192; mid-1900s to late, 33, 244, 255

  Itzkovitz Delicatessen, Chicago, 99

  J

  Jackie’s Deli, Las Vegas, 149

  Jackson, Mississippi, 169

  Jacob Bronfman’s, New York, 26

  Jacobs, Jeff, 279

  Jacobson, Nate, 148

  Jaffe, Max, 161

  Jake’s, Milwaukee, 74

  Jerry’s Famous Deli, Encino, California, 183

  Jerry’s Famous Deli, Los Angeles, 140

  Jerry’s Famous Deli, South Beach, Florida, 183–84

  Jerry’s Famous Deli Inc., 176, 182–84, 188–89, 222

  Jewish community: Belgium, 242; Boulder, Colorado, 118; Buenos Aires, 191; Chicago, 95, 98–99; Colorado, 108, 118; Dallas, 161; Deep South, 169; Denver, 113; Detroit, 77; England, 229–30; Florida, 175, 176–78; France, 243–44; Havana, Cuba, 192; Hong Kong, 192; Houston, 16061, 164; Kansas City, 111–12; Krakow, 252, 253–64; Las Vegas, 148; London, England, 232–33; Los Angeles, 132, 136; Missouri, 108; Montreal, 195, 203–4, 2089; New Orleans, 166–67, 168; New York, 23–24, 27, 33, 46–48; Poland, 252, 253–60; San Francisco, 122, 124; Scottsdale, 159; St. Louis, 109–10; Texas, 160–61; Toronto, 204, 213–15; Utah, 108, 121; Washington, D.C., 170–73; Wyoming, 108

  Jimmy and
Drew’s 28th Street Deli, Boulder, Colorado, 118–20, 151, 274

  Jo Goldenberg’s, Paris, 244–45, 249

  Jo (manager at Brick Lane Beigel Bake), 230

  Joe Pierce Deli, Chicago, 99

  Joe’s Stone Crab, Chicago, 105

  John (cutter at Katz’s), 6–8

  Johnny’s Pastrami, Los Angeles, 132

  Jones, Tom, 149

  Junior’s Deli, Los Angeles, 136–37, 139

  Junior’s Deli, New York, 30

  Junior’s, Miami Beach, 177

  K

  Kahn & Botsman, London, England, 229

  Kalifa, Michel, 246–50, 274

  Kansas City, Missouri, 111–13

  Kansas Deli and Bakery, New Orleans, 167

  kasha varnishkes, 151

  Kassner, Diane, 268

  Kathy (waitress at 2nd Ave), 268

  Katz, Benny, 8

  Katz, Eric, 181

  Katz, Harry, 8

  Katz, Marc, 161–62

  Katzenberg, Mark Jay, 185

  Katzinger’s, Columbus, Ohio, 90

  Katznelson, David, 125, 128

  Katz’s Deli, Austin, Texas, 160–62

  Katz’s Delicatessen, New York: as restorer of health, 39–40; author’s stint at, 6–8, 10–13, 15–16, 1819; clientele, 9, 16–17; fame, 170; history and future, 3, 8–9, 17–18, 26, 273; non-kosher, 30; owners and staff, 8–9, 11, 13–15, 18, 44; pastrami, 12–13, *98; sends salamis to U.S. troops, 32; and young Jews today, 47–48

  Kaufman’s Bagel & Deli, Chicago, 99–101

  Kavin, Jeff, 134, 140

  Kennedy, Robert, 45, 172

  Kenny & Zuke’s, Portland, 74

  Kenny and Ziggy’s, Houston, Texas, 162–65

  Kensington Kosher Deli, Long Island, 45

  King Kold, Chicago, 95, 97

  King, Larry, 132–33, 136

  kishke, 138–39

  Klein, Freddy, 55, 164

  Kleinman, Morris, 148

  Klezmer Hois, Krakow, 252, 256, 259, 262

  Koch, Ed, 45, 48

  Koch’s, Philadelphia, 75

  Kofman, Jeffrey, 188–89

  Kohn, Kenny, 14

  Koppel’s, Chicago, 99

  Korenbaum, Bill, 185–87

  Kosher Cajun New York Deli and Grocery, New Orleans, 166–68

  kosher foods: authenticity, 28–29; early history, 22–23; history in America, 23–30; in supermarkets, 33–34; pastrami as, 56; today, 34

  Kosher on the Go, Salt Lake City, 121

  Kosher Zion, Chicago, 97

  Krakow, Poland, 252, 253–61, 262–65

  Kranin, Theodore, 26

  Kravitz, Al, 205

  Kravitz, Ben, 195, 204–5

  Kravitz, Brian, 205

  Kravitz, Elliot, 205

  Kravitz, Fanny, 195

  Kravitz, Irving, 205

  Kravitz, Jean, 205

  Kravitz, Murray, 205

  Kravitz, Sollie, 205

  Krupin, Mel, 172

  L

  Lack, Asher, 269

  Lack, Stephen, 269

  Langer, Al, 141–45

  Langer, Jean, 141

  Langer, Jeanette, 144

  Langer, Norm, 141–45

  Langer, Trisha, 144

  Langer’s Delicatessen, Los Angeles, 141–45, 198

  Las Vegas, 148–57, 274

  Lasky, Jesse, 132

  LaVazza, Italy, 97

  Leavitt’s, Chicago, 98

  Lebedin, Charles, 169

  Lebewohl, Abe: inspires Jeremy, 271–72, 276; murder of, 66, 277–78; opens and runs 2nd Ave Deli, 62–66, 67–68, 70

  Lebewohl, Ariella, 278–79

  Lebewohl, Felicia, 69

  Lebewohl, Jack: birth, 64; closes 2nd Ave Deli, 62–63, 67, 69–71, 277; and opening of new 2nd Ave Deli, 267, 268–69, 271, 277–78; runs 2nd Ave Deli after Abe’s death, 66, 68, 69, 71

  Lebewohl, Jeremy, 267–73, 276–79

  Lebewohl, Joshua, 271, 276

  Lebewohl, Sharon, 65–66, 68–71, 271, 277–78

  Lebewohl, Terry, 276

  Lebowski, Jeff “The Dude,” 125

  Leb’s Pig Alley, Atlanta, 169

  Lefler, Israel, 121

  Lefler, Miriam, 121

  Lenny’s, Baltimore, 171

  Leonard, Jack E., 30

  Leonard, Kevin, 3

  Lester’s Deli, Montreal, 203–4, 209

  Lester’s (meats; no relation to Deli), Montreal, 216

  Lettuce Entertain You, 105

  Lever Brothers, 220

  Levine, Ed, 49

  Levine, Sandy, 42, 54–55, 115, 254–55

  Levitt, Peter, 123

  Levy’s Jewish Rye, 34

  Liebman’s, New York, 42, 140

  Linda (waitress at 2nd Ave), 268

  Lindy’s, New York, 30

  Litman’s, Toronto, 214

  Livonia, Michigan, 81

  Loeser, Freddy, 43

  Loeser’s Kosher Delicatessen, New York, 43

  Loewy, Lou, 81

  London, Arnie, 178

  London, England: deli history and future, 232–33, 237–38, 274; Jewish community, 229–30, 232–33; numbers of delis, 229–30; types of delis, 231

  Long Island, New York, 33, 40, 45

  Lori (waitress at Pancer’s), 224

  Los Angeles: deli history and future, 131–32, 274; family-owned delis, 138–41; Jewish community, 132, 136

  Lou G. Siegel’s, New York, 44

  Louie (counterman at 2nd Ave), 268

  Louis’ Deli, St. Louis, 109

  Lou’s, Detroit, 77, 80–82

  Lubin, Charles, 97

  Lyons Deli, Chicago, 98–99

  M

  Mahmoud (counterman at 2nd Ave), 268

  Main Deli, Montreal, 201, 202

  Main St. Deli, Kansas City, Missouri, 111

  Main Street Deli, Hong Kong, 192

  Maison David, Paris, 245–49

  Makuch, Janusz, 255

  Mamma Batt’s, Chicago, 98

  Mann, Michael, 146

  Manny’s, Chicago, 140

  Manny’s Coffee Shop & Deli, Chicago, 93–95, 106–7

  Markowitz sisters, 140

  Markowitz, Suzee, 133

  Marx, Andrew “Drew,” 119–20

  Marx, Sarah, 120

  Mason, Jackie, 31, 62

  Max and Benny’s, Chicago, 101–3, 105

  Max C’s, Las Vegas, 149

  Max’s and Eppy’s, Chicago, 105

  Mazian’s, Atlanta, 169

  McGovern, George, 45

  Mel Krupin’s, Washington, D.C., 172

  Melman, Richard, 105

  Mel’s Montreal Delicatessen, Toronto, 215

  Memphis, Tennessee, 169

  Mendelson, Al, 139

  Mendelson, David, 139, 140, 147

  Mendelson, Mark, 139, 140

  Merlin’s, Atlanta, 169

  Merwin, Ted, 28, 35, 269

  Mexicans, as deli workers, 159–60

  Miami Beach, Florida, 176–78, 188–89

  Michael, George, 237

  Mile High Rye, Denver, 113–18

  Mill Basin, New York, 140

  Miller’s, Baltimore, 75

  Miller’s East Coast Delicatessen, San Francisco, 125–26

  Milwaukee Deli, Kansas City, Missouri, 111

  Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 74

  Miner’s, Memphis, 169

  Missouri, 108–10, 274

  Mo Pitkin’s House of Satisfaction, New York, 47, 49

  Moe Pancer’s Delicatessen, Toronto, 217, 223–25

  Mohamed (counterman at 2nd Ave), 268

  Moishe Pippic’s, Chicago, 99

  Moishe Pippic’s, Havana, Cuba, 192

  Moishes Steak House, Montreal, 201

  Monroe, Marilyn, 31

  Montefiore, Lady Judith, 233

  Montreal: author’s ties to, 193–94; deli history, 195; deli history and future, 274; francophone effect, 210; francophone effect on delis, 201–2; garment industry, effect on d
elis, 203–4, 208–9; Jewish community, 195, 203–4, 208–9

  Morantz, Abe, 209

  Morantz, Cheryl, 209, 215–17

  Morantz, Ian, 209–11

  Morantz, Joe, 209, 216

  Morantz, Tobi, 210

  Morgan, Harry, 236

  Morgan, Ray, 236

  Morgenstein, Rae, 125

  Morgenstein, Robby, 125–26, 130

  Mr. Deli, Detroit, 77

  Mr. I’s, Toronto, 215

  Mr. T (actor), 137

  Myron’s, Pompano Beach, Florida, 175

  N

  Naples, Heidi, 117

  Naples, Steve, 117

  Nate (manager of Jerry’s Famous in Miami Beach), 189

  Nate n’ Al, Los Angeles, 132–33, 139, 140

  Nate’s Deli, Chicago, 98–99

  Nate’s, Detroit, 77

  Nathan’s, Atlanta, 169

  National Foodservice, 138

  Neuman, Joshua, 47–48

  Neuman, Sid, 84

  New Jersey, 75

  New Orleans, 166–68, 274

  New York: deli costs, 53–55, 60–61, 63; deli history and future, 5, 8, 22–36, 48–50, 67, 270, 273, 279; Delicatessen Dealers’ Association, 163–64; economy postwar to today, 34–35; Jewish population, 23–24, 27, 33, 46–48; restaurant diversity, 48–49; rye breads, 83

  New York Bakery and Delicatessen, Kansas City, Missouri, 111

  New York Corned Beef Society of America, Atlanta, 153, 169–70

  New York Deli News, Denver, 114, 118

  New Yorker Deli, Toronto, 222

  Ng, Helen, 49

  Nickels (chain), 201

  Nieporent, Drew, 269

  Niman Ranch (meats), Alameda, California, 123

  O

  Okmyansky, Pyotr (Peter), 14–15

  Olde Tyme Deli, Jackson, Mississippi, 169

  Ornat, Maltgosia, 256, 262

  Oscherwitz Kosher, Chicago, 95, 97

  P

  Palm Beach, Florida, 186

  Pancer, Lorne, 223–25, 244

  Pancer, Moe, 224

  Pancer, Stan, 224

  Paris, 244–49, 274

  Park City, Utah, 121

  Parker, Milton, 154

  pastrami: best sandwiches in America, 13, 144–45, 198; costs, 56–57; history, 25–26; how to slice, 7, 10–12, 14, 142–43; production process, 12, 56–57, 79, 218; sales, 58

  Pastrami Queen, New York, 68

  Penciner, Bernice, 212

  Penciner, Yitz, 212–13, 221

  Perkovic, Tony, 85–86

  Peskin, Brent, 138–39

  Peskin, Ron, 138–39

  Peter Wellts Delicatessen, Toronto, 214

  Philadelphia, 75

  Pickle Barrel (chain), Toronto, 221–23, 224

 

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