Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2
Page 63
sliced, baked (gratin, normande; clafouti)
soufflés, individual, in apples (soufflées, Calvados)
other ideas
stuffing, with sausage, I: 275
tart (tarte aux; tarte normande aux), I: 635, 637–8
in puff pastry (tarte aux)
applesauce caramel mold (pommes normande en belle vue), I: 624
apricot(s) (abricots)
general information, I: 593, 654
glaze (glaçage à l’), I: 593, 670; 7.1
mousse
molded with sherbet or ice cream (bombe glacée)
with whipped cream (Chantilly)
sauce or filling (confit d’, en sirop), 7.1, 7.2, 7.3
sherbet and ice cream (mousse, glacée)
in stuffing (suckling pig)
tart (tarte aux), I: 639
arroser (to baste), I: 11
arrowroot thickening
for brown sauce, I: 70
for orange sauce, I: 276
artichoke(s) (artichauts), I: 423–34
general information, I: 423–6
boiled whole (au naturel), I: 424
cold, I: 577
braised, I: 426–7
sauces for, I: 426
artichoke hearts and bottoms, I: 298, 428–34, 478
general information, I: 428–30
cold, I: 577; 6.1
to cook, I: 430–4
gratinéed, I: 433
à la grecque, I: 538
stuffed, I: 433
en surprise (cold)
asparagus (asperges), I: 434–41
general information, I: 434–8
boiled (nature), I: 436
cold, I: 437
custard mold (timbale), I: 440
froze I: 439; 1.1
soup
cream of green (crème d’, vertes)
frozen, for
white European, for
tips (pointes), I: 438
aspics and molds (aspics), I: 544–57
general information, I: 544–6
decorative elements for, I: 546, 559
jellied stocks for, I: 112–14
to line a mold with aspic, I: 558
for pâtés and terrines, I: 565; 5.1
sauce chaud-froid for, I: 551, 563; 4.1
to unmold, I: 559
apple aspic (de pommes), I: 627
braised beef in aspic (boeuf mode en gelée), I: 556
chicken (volaille; poulet)
breasts in chaud-froid (suprêmes de), I: 551–3
fowl, I: 554; 4.1
livers in aspic (foies de), I: 548
poached in white wine, in aspic (en gelée), 4.1, 4.2
Provençal, cold in aspic (bouillabaisse de)
in tarragon aspic (en gelée à l’estragon), I: 549; 4.1
crab (crabe)
in aspic, I: 549
in chaud-froid, I: 553
eggs in aspic (oeufs en), I: 547
fowl, I: 554; 4.1
in lemon jelly (escabèche), I: 554
stewed in pieces
ham, parslied, mold of, in aspic (jambon persillé)
lobster (homard)
in aspic, I: 549
in chaud-froid, I: 553
mousses, I: 558–64
for pâté en brioche, cold
for pâté en croûte
shrimp in aspic (crevettes en), I: 549
aubergines: see eggplant
B
babas, I: 658–61
bacon, I: 15, 21
blanching, I: 15
with broccoli (brocoli sautées à la niçoise)
for larding beef, 3.1, 3.2
in quiche Lorraine, I: 147
baked Alaska flambée
baker’s oven, 2.1, 2.2
baking dishes: see kitchen equipment
bananas in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)
barde de lard (pork fat), I: 564
baste, to (definition of), I: 11
batter
for cookies (pâté à langues de chats)
for dessert crêpes, I: 649–50
for entrée crêpes, I: 191
for ladyfingers, I: 666
batterie de cuisine, I: 3–10; app1.1
see also kitchen equipment
bavarian creams (bavarois), I: 596–603
almond (praliné), I: 599
chocolate (au chocolat), I: 599
orange (à l’orange), I: 596
with rice and fruits (riz à l’Impératrice), I: 601
strawberry, raspberry, and other fruits (aux fruits), I: 600
bay leaves (American, French), I: 18
beans
dry white, I: 399–404
baked (cassoulet), I: 401–4
variations, I: 404
to boil, I: 401
with lamb, I: 338
to pressure-cook, I: 400
with purée of pumpkin (gratin de potiron d’Arpajon)
soup, with eggplant (soupe à la Victorine)
green or string (haricots verts), I: 442–7
general information, I: 442–3, 449
buttered (à l’anglaise; à la maître d’hôtel), I: 444
cold in salade niçoise, I: 542
creamed (à la crème; sauce crème), I: 445
gratinéed with cheese (gratinés, à la mornay), I: 446
with tomatoes (à la provençale), I: 447
wax or yellow pod, I: 448–9
béarnaise sauce, I: 84, 85
beating
definition of, I: 11
of egg whites, I: 159–60; app1.1
hand-held electric beater
of egg yolks and sugar, I: 579
of eggs for omelettes, I: 127
of sugar and butter, I: 581
béchamel sauce, I: 55–64; 6.1
beef (boeuf), I: 288–328; 3.1
general information, I: 288–9
cuts for
boiling, I: 307
braising, I: 310; 3.1
filet steaks, I: 290–1; 3.1
hamburger, I: 301
paupiettes, roulades
steaks, I: 289–91, 293; 3.1
stews, I: 314; 3.1
grades of, I: 288–9
marinades
for braised beef, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2
discussion of
for filet, I: 306
for stews, I: 323; 3.1
wine marinades, I: 310; 3.1
arm and shoulder steak
for braising
for paupiettes
boiled (pot-au-feu; potée normande), I: 306
bottom round
boiled, I: 306
braised, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2
for braising and stewing
for paupiettes
in stews, I: 315
bourguignon, I: 315
brains: see brains
braised (pot roast)
general information, I: 309–10; 3.1, 3.2
cold, in aspic (mode en gelée), I: 556
hollowed out and stuffed (en caisse, surprise)
minced, in beef shell (pièce de, à la cuillère), I: 313
in red wine (à la mode), I: 309
in salad (salade de, à la parisienne), I: 543
with wine and tomatoes (en daube à la provençale)
brioché, Wellington (filet de, en croûte)
brisket
boiled, I: 307
braised
for braising
chuck
boiled, I: 307
braised, I: 310; 3.1
for braising and stewing
in stews, I: 315
cold, I: 322, 324, 543, 556, 576
daubes: see beef, braised; beef, stews
eye of round
braised, I: 310; 3.1
described
filet of (filet de), I: 290–1, 303–6, 325–8; 3.1; see also beef, tenderloin
filet steaks (tournedos), I: 290–1, 296–300
with artichoke hearts
&nb
sp; and béarnaise sauce (Henry IV), I: 298
and foie gras (Rossini), I: 299
with mushrooms and Madeira sauce (chasseur), I: 297
flank, for braising
fricassees, I: 314–25
ground (hamburgers), I: 300–3
heel of round, for stewing
knuckle: see beef, sirloin tip
larding of, 3.1, 3.2
leftover
braised
cold, in aspic (mode en gelée), I: 556
in Provençal sausages or meat loaf (tous nus)
in salad (en salade), I: 543
liver, in pâtés
marrow (moelle)
preparation of, I: 19
sauces with, I: 76, 294–5, 419
plate, for stewing and braising
ragoûts: see beef, stews
rolls, stuffed (paupiettes de; roulades de; petites ballotines de), I: 318; 3.1
cuts for
giant (la paupiette de Gargantua)
with peppers, onions, and mustard bread (paupiettes de, à la catalane)
stuffings for, I: 319, 565; 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, app.1
round, for stewing and braising
rump
boiled, I: 307
braised, I: 310; 3.1
for paupiettes
in stews, I: 315
salad, with potatoes (salade de, à la parisienne), I: 543
sautés (filet), I: 325–8
short ribs, for stewing
shoulder: see beef, chuck
sirloin tip, or knuckle
boiled, I: 307
braised, I: 310; 3.1
for stewing
in stews, I: 315
steaks, I: 289–300
pan-broiled (bifteck sauté), I: 292–6
pepper (au poivre), I: 296
tenderloin (tournedos, etc.), I: 290–1, 296–300
stews (ragoûts de), I: 314–25
cuts for, I: 314; 3.1
daubes, I: 322–5; 3.1
with garlic and anchovy (à la provençale)
with ginger, capers, and herbs (au gingembre)
with herbs, cheese, and garlic (au pistou)
with olives and potatoes (aux olives)
with onions and beer (carbonnades à la flamande), I: 317
with onions and red wine (aux oignons)
with peppers and tomatoes (en pipérade)
in red wine (bourguignon), I: 315
with rice and tomatoes (à la catalane), I: 321
stuffed rolls (paupiettes de; roulades de; petites ballotines de), I: 318; 3.1
with vegetables (daubes), I: 322–5, 576
stocks, I: 107–10
Stroganoff (beef sauté), I: 325
stuffed, I: 313; 3.1
paupiettes, I: 318; 3.1
in stuffing with ham, for cabbage leaves
suet, for larding, 3.1, 3.2
tenderloin (filet)
general information, I: 290–1; 3.1
trimming, tying, and larding
baked in mushroom duxelles or matignon vegetables
baked in pastry, Wellington (en croûte)
casserole-roasted, with aromatic vegetables (poêlé)
with onions, mushrooms, and olives (à la bourgeoise)
sautés of, I: 325–8
sliced, roasted, with mushroom stuffing (en feuilletons, duxelles)
steaks (châteaubriands; tournedos; filets), I: 290–1, 296–300
stuffed, foie gras, truffles (Prince Albert), I: 303
tongue: see tongues, beef
top roast: see beef, braised
top round
braised, I: 310; 3.1, 3.2
for braising and stewing
for paupiettes
in stews, I: 315
tournedos: see beef, tenderloin
tripe
Wellington, brioché (en croûte)
beet and rice salad (à la d’Argenson), I: 543
Bercy sauce, I: 210, 294
beurre: see butter, butters
biscuits, cheese (bouchées; galettes; baguettes), I: 196–8
bisque(s)
crab (de crabes)
crayfish (d’écrevisses)
lobster (de homard à l’américaine)
shrimp (de crevettes)
blackberry flan (clafouti aux mûres), I: 657
blanc, for artichoke bottoms, I: 430
blanch, to, I: 11
bacon, I: 15
brains and sweetbreads, I: 409
broccoli, I: 455; 6.1
cauliflower, I: 457
eggplant, 6.1, 6.2
green vegetables, I: 421, 443, 450, 468
rice, I: 529
turnips, I: 486
zucchini
blanchir (to blanch), I: 11
blend, to (definition of), I: 11
blender: see electric blender
blettes: see chard
blueberry(ies) (myrtilles)
in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)
flan (clafouti aux myrtilles), I: 657
with rum babas, I: 661
boeuf: see beef
boil, to (definition of), I: 11
bombe glacée: see desserts, frozen
boning
of breast of whole chicken (half-boning or demi-désossée)
of chicken breasts, I: 267
of leg of lamb, I: 329; 3.1
of poultry, I: 570
of veal breast
bonne femme sauce, I: 216
bordelaise sauce, I: 76, 295, 419
bouchées
chicken garniture for (de volaille, financière)
potato cheese sticks (Parmentier au fromage), I: 198
puff pastry dough for
puff pastry shells for, 2.1, 2.2
seafood garniture for (dieppoise; aux fruits de mer)
sweetbread garniture for (ris de veau à la financière)
boudin blanc, 4.1, 5.1
bouillabaisse
chicken, poached in white wine
with aïoli sauce (poulet en bourride)
provençal (de poulet)
with vegetables and egg-yolk sauce (waterzooi de poulet)
fish (à la marseillaise), I: 52
scallops (Saint-Jacques)
bouilli
cheese filling for pastries
sauce base for soufflés, I: 614, 619
bouillir (to boil), I: 11
bouquet garni, I: 18
bourguignonne sauce, I: 76
bourride
of chicken
of fish
brains (calf, lamb, etc.) (cervelles), I: 408–9, 413–16
blanching of, I: 409
braised (braisées), I: 415
cold, I: 577
leftover, in gratin, I: 157
in pâté, with veal, chicken, spinach (terrine verte)
in red wine (en matelote), I: 415
sautéed, brown butter sauce (au beurre noir), I: 413
soufflé, I: 167
braise, to (definition of), I: 11
braiser (to braise), I: 11
braising: see beef; lamb; etc.
brandy
for cooking, I: 32
sauce for pepper steak, I: 296
bread(s) (pain)
general information, 2.1
dough texture, volume, temperature
equipment for making, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, app1.1, app1.2
kneading, hand vs. machine
timing
weather
yeast
brioches; see also brioches
cases (croûtes), preparation of, I: 200
croissants; see also croissants
croûtons
crumbs, I: 21, 266
in stuffings: see list of stuffings, app.1
dough(s) (pâtes)
general information, 2.1
delayed action, 2.1, 2.2
chart
to freeze
brioches
croissants, 2.1, 2.2
French
r /> sandwich
egg (brioché; brioche commune; Louis XV)
with raisins (brioché aux raisins)
freezing: see directions in each recipe
French
general information, 2.1
baker’s oven, simulated
delayed action
dough for
sour dough
equipment needed
special equipment (baker’s oven), 2.1, 2.2
flour for
forming
long loaves (ficelles)
rolls (petits pains, tire-bouchons, champignons)
round loaves (pain de ménage, miches, boules)
kneading
hand-kneading, 2.1, 2.2
machine-kneading, 2.1, 2.2
self-criticism
shapes, illustrated
slashing
long loaves, 2.1, 2.2
rolls, 2.1, 2.2
round loaves
storing of
plain (pain français)
hard-toasted (croûtes), I: 44
honey (d’épices)
for Melba toast (de mie)
pans, sizes
for white sandwich (de mie), 2.1, 2.2
raisin
egg (brioché)
kougloff (brioche)
white (de mie)
rolls
brioches, small
croissants
of French bread dough, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3
rounds (canapés), I: 199; 7.1
spice (d’épices)
white sandwich (de mie)
pans for, 2.1, 2.2
breasts of chicken: see chicken, breasts of
brioche(s)
general information
dough for
pâte à, commune
pâte à, fine
kneading
by hand
by machine
pans and molds for, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, app1.1
crust (covering)
for beef Wellington
for boned lamb (gigot farci, en croûte)
for pâté
for sausage and pâté
for stuffed veal (feuilletons de veau)
large (grosse, à tête)
with raisins (kougloff)
ring-shaped (en couronne)
shortcake (le Marly; la Riposte)
small (petites, à tête)
British
measures, I: 20–1
oven temperatures, I: 25
brittle (pralin)
almond, I: 583; 7.1
walnut
broccoli (choux brocoli), I: 455–6; 6.1
general information, 6.1
buying
cooking methods
preparing
recipes to prepare ahead
blanched, plain boiled (blanchis)
braised in butter (étuvés au beurre)
with bread crumbs and chopped egg (à la polonaise)
in brown butter (au beurre noir)
with cheese (gratinés au fromage, à la milanaise)
chopped
with cheese sauce (gratin de, mornay)
in cream (étuvés à la crème)
sautéed (sauté de)
cold
custard molds (timbales de)
with lemon (au citron)
with poached eggs
sauces for