Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2

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Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 Page 69

by Julia Child


  for nests or mounds (duchesse)

  with turnips (navets parmentier), I: 487

  molded, with cheese (galette de, au fromage)

  pancakes (crêpes de), I: 521

  filled (galettes de, farcies)

  made from leftover mashed (galettes de, duchesse)

  pie with herbs and cream (tourte limousine)

  salads (salade de)

  with beans, etc. (niçoise), I: 542

  with beef (boeuf à la parisienne), I: 543

  with beets (à la d’Argenson), I: 543

  French (à l’huile), I: 541

  sautéed

  balls (parisiennes), I: 528

  in butter (sautées; pour garniture; château), I: 526–8

  diced (en dés), I: 528

  with lemon and garlic (sautées, calabraise)

  scalloped

  with carrots and cream (gratin de, Crécy), I: 525

  in cream (gratin jurassien), I: 524

  with meat stock and cheese (gratin savoyard), I: 524

  with milk and cheese (gratin dauphinois), I: 523

  with onions and tomatoes (gratin de, provençal), I: 525, 578

  soups

  garlic with (soupe à l’ail aux), I: 48

  with leeks

  and celery (potage Célestine)

  or onion (potage Parmentier), I: 37

  vichyssoise, I: 39

  and watercress (potage au cresson), I: 38–9

  with stews

  beef with olives

  veal (printanier)

  with truffles (sarladaise)

  with veal chops or steaks

  potiron: see pumpkins and winter squashes

  poularde: see chicken

  poulet: see chicken

  poultry, I: 234–87; 4.1

  to disjoint

  to half-bone

  preserved

  stock, I: 109, 236, 237

  to truss, I: 237–9; 4.1

  see also chicken; duck; goose; etc.

  pound cake (le quatre quarts)

  pralin (caramelized ground nuts)

  almonds (aux amandes), I: 583; 7.1

  walnuts (aux noix)

  precooking: symbol (*) in recipes

  preserved goose (confit d’oie): see goose, preserved

  preserves

  fillings for crêpes, I: 654

  sauces and glazes, I: 593–4

  pressure cooker

  for dried beans, I: 400

  for soups, I: 37, 40

  for stocks, I: 107

  Progrès, le

  prune(s) (pruneaux)

  and foie gras stuffing for goose, I: 284

  tart with cream cheese, I: 648

  puff pastry (feuilletée): see pastry, puff

  puff shells; puffs (pâte à choux), I: 177–81

  pumpkins and winter squashes (potiron)

  general information, 6.1

  purée with white beans (gratin de, d’Arpajon)

  soup (potage au)

  stuffed (tout rond)

  purée, to (definition of), I: 13

  purée(s) (purées)

  apple (soufflé base)

  cauliflower and watercress (choufleur en verdure), I: 460

  chestnut (de marrons), I: 518

  garlic and basil (pistou), 3.1, 6.1, 6.2

  jam, preserves, or jelly, for sauce, I: 593

  mushroom, to stuff artichoke bottoms

  pumpkin with white beans (gratin de potiron d’Arpajon)

  raspberry, for sauce, I: 592, 630

  rice and turnip (Freneuse)

  rutabagas (la, châteaux en Suède)

  spinach (d’épinards simple), I: 469

  strawberry, for sauce, I: 592

  tomato with garlic and herbs (coulis de tomates à la provençale), I: 78

  turnip and potato (de navets Parmentier), I: 487

  white bean soup with garnish (soupe à la Victorine)

  see also potatoes, mashed

  puréeing, I: 13

  electric blender for soups, I: 37; 1.1

  food mill, I: 9; 3, 535

  Q

  quail, roast (caille rôtie), I: 246

  quatre épices, for charcuterie

  quatre quarts, le (pound cake)

  quenelle(s), I: 184–90

  beef (de boeuf provençales)

  in chicken filling for vol-au-vent (garniture de volaille, financière)

  of fish (de poisson), I: 185

  fish for, I: 185

  gratin of, I: 188

  with oysters (aux huîtres), I: 188

  of salmon (de saumon), I: 189

  of shellfish (de crustacés), I: 189

  of poultry or veal (de volailles ou de veau), I: 189

  stuffing for fish filets, I: 216

  in sweetbread filling for vol-au-vent (ris de veau à la financière)

  see also mousses, entrée

  quiche(s), I: 146–53

  Camembert, I: 148

  cheese (au fromage), I: 147–8

  cream and bacon (Lorraine), I: 147

  endive (aux endives), I: 152

  leek (aux poireaux; flamiche), I: 151

  Lorraine, I: 147

  mushroom (aux champignons), I: 152

  onion (aux oignons), I: 150

  pastry shells for

  described, I: 143; 2.1

  dough, I: 139–43; 2.1, 2.2

  forming and baking, I: 143–6; 2.1

  Roquefort, I: 148

  seafood (aux fruits de mer), I: 149

  spinach (aux épinards), I: 153

  Swiss cheese), I: 147

  tomato (à la tomate, niçoise), I: 148

  R

  rabbit (lapin)

  general information, 3.1

  buying and preparing for cooking

  thawing frozen

  pâté, I: 568

  stewed in red wine (au Saupiquet)

  rafraîchir (to refresh), I: 13

  ragoûts: see beef, stew; veal, stew; etc.

  raised batters and doughs (pâtes levées)

  babas and savarins, I: 658

  crêpes, I: 649, 650

  French breads, brioches, croissants

  raisin(s) (raisins)

  with braised onions

  bread, 2.1, 2.2

  brioche with (kougloff)

  in sauce for beef tongue

  raspberry(ies) (framboises)

  bavarian cream (bavarois), I: 600

  in brioche cake (le Marly; la Riposte)

  Chantilly, I: 608

  cream plombières, I: 595

  malakoff, I: 607

  sauce, fresh, I: 592

  on peaches, I: 630

  sherbet and ice cream (mousse aux)

  ratatouille, I: 503, 577

  ravigote sauce, I: 95

  reduce, to (definition of), I: 13

  reduire (to reduce), I: 13

  en purée (to purée), I: 13

  refresh, to (definition of), I: 13

  Reine de Saba, I: 677

  rémoulade sauce, I: 91

  ribbon, to form the, I: 579

  rice (riz), I: 528–35

  and beet salad (à la d’Argenson), I: 543

  boiled, for salads (au blanc), I: 532

  braised (risotto; pilaf, pilau), I: 532

  buttered (I, II, III) (à l’anglaise; au beurre; étuvé au beurre), I: 530–1

  mold, orange-flavored with cherries (des Hespérides)

  with mushrooms (duxelles), I: 531

  with mussels (pilaf de moules), I: 231

  and onions (soubise), I: 355, 485

  packaged precooked, I: 534–5

  panade for pâtés

  pudding (à l’Impératrice), I: 601

  ring of (en couronne), I: 534

  steamed (à l’indienne; à la vapeur), I: 529

  in stuffings: see list of stuffings, app.1

  and turnips, purée (purée Freneuse)

  wild, I: 535

  and zucchini, gratin of (tian)

  Ripo
ste, la

  ris de veau: see sweetbreads

  risotto, I: 532

  riz: see rice

  rognons: see kidneys

  rognures (leftover puff pastry)

  rolls

  beef: see beef, rolls

  brioches, small

  cream (rouleaux), 2.1, 7.1

  croissants

  French bread, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  rooster, I: 235

  rouille, sauce for fish soup, I: 51–2

  roulades: see beef, rolls

  rouleaux (cream rolls)

  as appetizer with cheese filling

  as dessert with cream filling

  roux

  for braising sauce

  for brown sauce, I: 68; 3.1

  for cheese sauce

  for white sauce, I: 56

  rum (rhum)

  in apple aspic, I: 627

  babas, I: 660–1

  in butter creams, I: 681–4

  cake, caramel custard, flambée (charlotte Jamaïque en flammes)

  for cooking, I: 32

  soufflé, with macaroons (soufflé démoulé aux macaroons), I: 620

  syrup for babas, I: 660

  rutabagas, I: 485–6

  purée (la purée, châteaux en Suède)

  rye flour, in spice cake (pain d’épices)

  S

  sabayon sauce, for pears

  Saint-André, le, 7.1, 7.2

  Saint-Cyr, le, glacé

  Saint-Jacques en bouillabaisse, les

  Saint-Jacques, velouté de

  salad(s) (salades), I: 541–4

  combination (niçoise), I: 542

  mussel (de moules), I: 229

  potato (de pommes de terre), I: 541–4

  rice for (riz au blanc), I: 532

  rice and beet (à la d’Argenson), I: 543

  sweet pepper (de poivrons, provençale)

  salmon (saumon)

  gratin (aux fruits de mer), I: 156

  mousse, I: 562

  quenelles, I: 189

  soufflé, I: 166

  variations, I: 167

  in stuffing for lamb (farce mentonnaise), I: 338

  timbales, I: 175

  salt

  general information, I: 23

  cure of goose

  cure of pork

  to remove excess, I: 23

  spiced, for charcuterie (sel épicé)

  sauce(s), I: 54–105

  note: sauces for desserts listed separately

  general information, I: 54–5

  aïoli, I: 92; 1.1

  for chicken (bouillabaisse)

  for fish stew (bourride)

  alsacienne; de Sorges, I: 93

  anchovy (aux anchois), I: 66

  with garlic for beef stew (provençale), I: 324

  aurore, I: 62

  bâtarde, I: 64

  béarnaise, I: 84

  with meat-glaze flavoring (Colbert), I: 85

  with tomato flavoring (Choron), I: 85

  béchamel, I: 55–64

  with eggplant

  bercy

  with fish filets, I: 210

  with steak, I: 294

  bonne femme, I: 216

  bordelaise, I: 76, 295, 419

  bourguignonne, I: 76

  brandy, I: 296

  brown (brunes), I: 66–76

  butter (beurre)

  brown (noir; noisette), I: 98–9

  for calf’s brains, I: 413

  for chicken breasts (noisette), I: 270

  cold flavored, I: 99–105

  lemon (au citron), I: 98

  white (blanc; nantais), I: 96

  caper (aux câpres), I: 65

  Chantilly, I: 83

  chasseur, I: 75, 368

  chaud-froid

  blanche neige, I: 105

  for chicken

  cheese with wine and garlic (fondue de fromage), I: 105, 118

  chivry, I: 62

  choron, I: 85

  Colbert, I: 85

  cream (crème; suprême), I: 59, 60, 268, 458

  and mushroom, for ham, I: 392

  and mustard, for liver, I: 406

  sour (vinaigrette à la crème), with dill, I: 95

  and white wine, for chicken fricassee, I: 260

  curry

  brown (brune au cari), I: 73

  white (au cari), I: 63, 261; 3.1

  deglazing, I: 76, 255–6, 271

  diable, I: 71

  dieppoise, I: 214

  dill, I: 95

  duxelles, I: 74

  egg yolk

  (parisienne; allemande), I: 60

  see also below hollandaise; mayonnaise

  espagnole (sauce base), I: 66

  game (poivrade), I: 70

  garlic (à l’ail)

  and anchovy for beef stew, I: 324

  and basil (pistou), I: 45; 3.1, 6.1, 6.2

  and egg yolks for chicken, I: 257

  for lamb, I: 334

  mayonnaise (aïoli), I: 92; 1.1, 4.1

  and pepper (rouille) for fish soup, I: 52

  herbal

  brown (aux fines herbes), I: 73

  hollandaise, I: 82

  mayonnaise, I: 89–90, 93

  white wine (Chivry), I: 62

  hollandaise, I: 79–85

  electric blender, I: 81

  handmade, I: 79

  mock (bâtarde; au beurre), I: 64

  variations, I: 82–5

  italienne, I: 76, 411

  jus lié, I: 70

  Madeira (madère), I: 75, 298, 300

  brown, with truffles (Périgueux), I: 75

  with mushrooms, I: 515

  for tongue

  maltaise, I: 83

  marchand de vins, I: 295

  marrow (moelle), I: 76, 294–5, 419

  matelote, I: 415

  mayonnaise, I: 86–93

  electric blender, I: 88

  handmade, I: 87

  remedy for turned, I: 88

  variations, I: 89–93

  mornay, I: 61, 193

  for broccoli

  for poached chicken

  mousseline, I: 83

  sabayon, I: 84, 169

  mushroom (duxelles), I: 74

  brown (à l’italienne), I: 76, 411

  and cream, I: 392

  with tomatoes (chasseur), I: 75, 368

  mustard (moutarde), I: 66, 95

  brown (Robert), I: 72

  with cream (à la normande), I: 382

  for liver, I: 406

  with pearl onions and raisins, for tongue (à l’aigre—douce)

  with tomatoes and cream (Nénette), I: 387

  Nantua, I: 216

  Nénette, I: 387

  normande, I: 215

  onion (soubise), I: 64, 355, 485

  orange, I: 76, 276

  paprika (au paprika), I: 262, 268

  parisienne, I: 60, 212, 214–16

  Périgueux, I: 75

  pimento, for chicken (suprême pimentée)

  piquante, I: 72

  poivrade, I: 70

  port wine (au porto), I: 75

  ragoût, I: 69

  ravigote, I: 95

  rémoulade, I: 91

  Riviera, I: 90

  Robert, I: 72

  roux

  for brown sauce, I: 68; 3.1

  for braising sauce

  for cheese sauce

  for white sauce, I: 56

  Saupiquet, for braising rabbit

  soubise, I: 64, 355, 485

  suprême, I: 59, 188

  tarragon (estragon)

  béarnaise, I: 84

  brown (brune à l’), I: 73, 251

  for chicken, I: 262; 4.1

  white (Chivry), I: 62

  tartare, I: 90

  thermidor, I: 221

  tomato (tomate)

  with canned tomatoes

  classic, I: 76

  fresh tomatoes (coulis), I: 78, 388

  truffle (Périgueux), I: 75, 271

  velouté, I: 55–64, 356–7,
363

  venison (venaison), I: 70

  vinaigrette, I: 94–5

  Walewska, I: 215

  white

  béchamels and veloutés, I: 55–66

  butter (beurre blanc; beurre nantais), I: 96

  wine, I: 62, 84, 217, 294–5

  sauce(s) for desserts, I: 588–93

  apricot (confit d’abricots en sirop)

  chocolate

  custard

  crème anglaise, I: 588, 683; 7.1, 7.2

  sabayon

  jam or jelly, I: 593

  raspberry (aux framboises), I: 592, 630

  sabayon, for pears

  strawberry (aux fraises), I: 592

  saucisse, saucisson: see sausage

  sauerkraut (choucroute), I: 280, 385

  braised (braisée à l’alsacienne), I: 498

  with meat garnish (garnie), I: 499

  sausage(s) (saucisses et saucissons)

  general information, 5.1

  casings

  buying and preparing

  filling

  substitutes for

  caul fat

  cheesecloth

  to cure, to hang (saucisson à cuire)

  cuts for

  fat for

  making links

  salt and spices (épices fines)

  with beans (cassoulet), I: 401

  with boiled beef (pot-au-feu), I: 306

  boudin blanc, 4.1, 5.1

  breakfast (chair à saucisse)

  in brioche (en brioche)

  with aspic

  formed in a loaf pan

  free-form

  braised beef and greens (les tous nus; quenelles de boeuf provençales)

  cakes, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  French type, homemade, I: 403

  casings: see above, general information, casings

  chard or spinach

  with beef (tous nus)

  pork and liver (caillettes)

  chicken liver in brioche (de foies de volaille)

  chipolatas, 5.1, 5.2

  goose-neck, stuffed (cou d’oie farcie)

  gratin, with potatoes, I: 155

  large, fresh, to cook (à cuire)

  other suggestions

  links

  liver, chicken (de foies de volaille)

  liver, pork, and greens (caillettes; gayettes)

  meat loaf, 5.1, 5.2

  panade for, 5.1, 5.2

  plain pork (chair à)

  in plain or puff pastry (en croûte)

  Polish, I: 404

  pork and liver with greens (caillettes; gayettes)

  pork and veal with truffles and foie gras (truffé au foie gras)

  Provençal, braised beef and greens (les tous nus; quenelles de boeuf)

  in stuffings, I: 275, 286; 3.1, 3.2, 5.1, 6.1

  white-meat (boudin blanc), 4.1, 5.1

  sauté, general information, I: 13

  sauter (to sauté), I: 13

  savarins, I: 662–5

  fillings for, I: 664

  mold for, I: 662

  small (petits), I: 665

  syrup for, I: 663

  with whipped cream (Chantilly), I: 664

  scallop(s) (coquilles Saint-Jacques)

  bouillabaisse of (les Saint-Jacques en bouillabaisse)

  variations

 

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