97 Orchard

by Jane Ziegelman

  Notes

  CHAPTER ONE: THE GLOCKNER FAMILY

  1. Henriette Davidis, Practical Cook Book: German National Cookery for American Kitchens (Milwaukee, 1904), 131.

  2. Davidis, Practical, 11.

  3. Gesine Lemcke, “Cooking Correspondence,” Brooklyn Eagle, January 1, 1899, 23.

  4. Author’s recipe, adapted from Davidis.

  5. Davidis, Practical, 318.

  6. Gesine Lemcke, “Cooking Correspondence,” Brooklyn Eagle, March 26, 1899, 20.

  7. “Uncleanly Markets,” New York Times, May 22, 1854, 4.

  8. “Market Reform,” New York Times, March 29, 1872, 4.

  9. “Local Intelligence,” New York Times, December 19, 1865, 2.

  10. Junius Henri Browne, The Great Metropolis (Hartford, 1869), 408.

  11. Thomas F. De Voe, The Market Assistant (New York, 1862), title page.

  12. “How New York Is Fed,” Scribner’s Monthly, October 1877, 730.

  13. Mrs. Emma Ewing, Salad and Salad Making (Chicago, 1883), 37.

  14. “Our City’s Condition,” New York Times, June 12, 1865, 1.

  15. “Sauerkraut Statistics,” Chicago Tribune (reprinted from the Philadelphia News), December 29, 1885, 5.

  16. “The Sauerkraut Peddler,” Washington Post (reprinted from the New York Evening Post), August 24, 1902, 10.

  17. Charles Dawson Shanley, “Signs and Show-Cases of New York,” Atlantic Monthly, May 1870, 528.

  18. “Vienna Bread,” New York Times, January 28, 1877, 6. (“Mackerelville” is a nineteenth-century term for the neighborhood that became the East Village.)

  19. “The Household,” New York Times, January 30, 1876, 9.

  20. “Toothsome German Dishes,” New York Times, July 11, 1897, 10.

  21. “The Million’s Beverage,” New York Times, May 20, 1877, 10.

  22. Browne, Great Metropolis, 161.

  23. “History of Beer,” United States Magazine, August 15, 1854, 180.

  24. Jacob A. Riis, How the Other Half Lives (New York, 1890), 215.

  25. “German Restaurants,” New York Times, January 19, 1873, 5.

  26. “Where Men May Dine Well,” New York Sun, April 5, 1891, 23.

  27. Emory Holloway, ed., The Uncollected Poetry and Prose of Walt Whitman, 2 vols. (Garden City, New York, 1921), II: 92.

  28. Gesine Lemcke, European and American Cuisine (New York, 1933), 543.

  29. “Luchow’s,” Benjamin DeCasseres, American Mercury, December 1931, 447.

  30. “Germany in New York,” Atlantic Monthly, May 1867, 557.

  31. “The Yearly Turn-Fest,” New York Times, August 26, 1862, 8.

  32. “Jovial Souls,” Brooklyn Eagle, July 14, 1891, 2.

  33. “Sixth Plattdeustche Festival,” New York Times, September 7, 1880, 8.

  34. “New-York City. Germans in America,” New York Times, June 27, 1855, 1.

  CHAPTER TWO: THE MOORE FAMILY

  1. Andrew Carpenter, ed., Verse from Eighteenth-Century Ireland (Cork, Ireland, 1998), 248.

  2. Nancy F. Cott, Root of Bitterness: Documents of the Social History of American Women (Lebanon, New Hampshire, 1996), 154.

  3. Letter from P. Burdan, 1894. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.

  4. Letter from Cathy Greene, 1884. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.

  5. “Those Servant Girls,” Brooklyn Daily Eagle, March 12, 1897, 3.

  6. Johann Georg Kohl, Ireland (New York, 1844), 13.

  7. Kohl, Ireland, 45.

  8. Charles Loring Brace, The Dangerous Classes of New York (New York, 1872), 168.

  9. Seamus MacManus, Yourself and the Neighbours (New York, 1914), 70.

  10. Letter from Alice McDonald, 1868. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.

  11. Charles Fanning, The Irish Voice in America (Lexington, 2000), 127.

  12. Louise Bolard More, Wage-Earners’ Budgets (New York, 1907), 173.

  13. “Cheap Pudding,” Irish Times, February 1, 1879.

  14. “A Day in Castle Garden,” Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, March 1871, 554.

  15. John F. Maguire, The Irish in America (London, 1868), 190.

  16. Jeremiah O’Donovan, A Brief Account of the Author’s Interview with His Countrymen (Pittsburgh, 1864), 367.

  17. “Saturday Night at Washington Market,” New York Times, March 17, 1872, 5.

  18. Maria Parloa, First Principles of Household Management and Cookery (Boston, 1879), 87.

  19. “Restaurant Calls,” Brooklyn Daily Eagle, July 3, 1887, 13.

  20. J. C. Croly, Jennie June’s American Cookery Book (New York, 1870), 76.

  21. George Foster, New York in Slices (New York, 1850), 70.

  22. William Ellis, The Country Housewife’s Family Companion (Totnes, Devon, 2000), 97.

  23. Kathleen Mathew, “New York Newsboys,” Frank Leslie’s Popular Monthly, April 1895, 458.

  24. “Tempting Hotel Menus,” New York Times, December 26, 1890, 8.

  CHAPTER THREE: THE GUMPERTZ FAMILY

  1. “Hester Street Market,” New York Times, July 27, 1895, 12.

  2. Ladies of Congregation Emanuel, The Fair Cook Book (Denver, 1888), 7. (Reproduced courtesy of the Beck Archives, Penrose Library, Special Collections, University of Denver.)

  3. Leah W. Leonard, Jewish Cookery, in Accordance with Jewish Dietary Laws (New York, 1949), 166.

  4. John Cooper, Eat and Be Satisfied: a Social History of Jewish Food (Northvale, New Jersey, 1993), 80.

  5. Marx Rumpolt, Ein new Kochbuch (Frankfurt am Main, 1581), 120. Translated by the author.

  6. Florence K. Greenbaum, International Jewish Cookbook (New York, 1919), 84.

  7. “Where Strict Jews Eat,” Current Literature, March 1881, 408.

  8. Bertha Kramer, “Aunt Babette’s” Cook Book (New York, 1914), 513.

  9. Matthew Hale Smith, Sunshine and Shadow in New York (Hartford, 1869), 456.

  10. National Council of Jewish Women, Council Cook Book (San Francisco, 1909), 48.

  11. Fannie Hurst, The Vertical City (New York, 1922), 262.

  12. Albert Waldinger, ed., Shining and Shadow: An Anthology of Early Yiddish Stories from the Lower East Side (Cranbury, New Jersey, 2006), 142.

  13. Michael Ginor et al., Foie Gras, a Passion (New York: 1999), 41.

  14. Albert H. Buck, ed., A Treatise of Hygiene and Health (New York, 1977), 400.

  15. During the early decades of the twentieth century, ethnically based food rackets were common in New York City. Taking advantage of their fellow immigrants’ fear and insularity, Jewish gangsters at various times took control of the kosher poultry industry, soda-fountain syrup manufacturing, and wholesale bakeries. Italian racketeers controlled artichokes, grapes, and pasta manufacture. All these rackets raised food prices mostly for that part of the population that could least afford it. Most food rackets were eliminated during the late 1930s, thanks to a concerted effort by the La Guardia administration.

  16. “Some Queer East Side Vocations,” Current Opinion (reprinted from the New York Post), August 1903, 202.

  17. Greenbaum, International Jewish Cookbook, 12.

  18. Author’s family recipe.

  19. Anya Yezierska, Hungry Hearts (New York, 1997), 116.

  20. Henry Harlan, The Yoke of the Thorah (New York, 1896), 205.

  21. Kramer, “Aunt Babette’s,” 24.

  22. Kela Nussbaum family recipe, contributed by Betsy Chanales.

  CHAPTER FOUR: THE ROGARSHEVSKY FAMILY

  1. “Humanity and Efficiency,” The Outlook, March 28, 1908, 627.

  2. Menu, Ellis Island archive.

  3. “Their First Thanksgiving,” The Sun (New York), December 1, 1905, 2.

  4. Frederick A. Wallis, “Treating Incoming Aliens as Human Beings,” Current History, April–September 1921, 443.

  5. “Feast of the Passover Celebrated,” New York Times, March 26, 1899. 6.

  6. Kosher menu, Ellis Island archive.

  7. Frieda Schwartz family r
ecipe, contributed by her daughter Francine E. Herbitter.

  8. Regina Frishwasser, Jewish American Cook Book (New York, 1946), 47.

  9. Bertha M. Wood, Foods of the Foreign-Born in Relation to Health (Boston, 1922), 90.

  10. Jennie Grossinger, The Art of Jewish Cooking (New York, 1960), 147.

  11. Elsa Herzfeld, Family Monographs (New York, 1905), 33.

  12. Fannie Cohen family recipe, contributed by her granddaughter, Francine E. Herbitter.

  13. Hinde Amchanitzki, Text Book for Cooking and Baking (New York, 1901), 30.

  14. “East Siders Don’t Approve Cookbook,” Hartford Courant, January 17, 1916, 3.

  15. John C. Gebhart, “Malnutrition and School Feeding,” Bulletin, United States Bureau of Education, 1922, 14.

  16. Emma Smedley, The School Lunch (Media, Pennsylvania, 1920), 147.

  17. “Poor Meals Break Homes,” New York Times, September 16, 1920, 8.

  18. “Queer Dishes in Shops,” New York Tribune, December 12, 1897, 40.

  19. Alfred Kazin, A Walker in the City (New York, 1951), 34.

  20. “Along Second Avenue,” New York Tribune, August 31, 1919, F12.

  21. Rian James, Dining in New York (New York, 1930), 32.

  22. William Reiner, Bohemia, the East Side Cafes of New York (New York, 1903), 20.

  23. Sholem Aleichem, Wandering Star (New York, 1952), 233.

  24. “Along Second Avenue,” New York Tribune, August 31, 1919, 68.

  25. Family recipe of Lillian Chanales.

  CHAPTER FIVE: THE BALDIZZI FAMILY

  1. “Unskilled Laborer,” Washington Herald, February 2, 1908, 12.

  2. “New Recipe for Soup,” New York Times, August 19, 1900, 15.

  3. “Undesirable Immigrants,” New York Times, December 18, 1880, 4.

  4. “Phases of City Life,” New York Times, November 4, 1871, 2.

  5. “Italy’s Invading Army,” New York Sun, June 28, 1891, 23.

  6. “Found in Garbage Boxes,” New York Times, July 15, 1883, 10.

  7. “Things Little Italy Eats,” The Sun (New York), August 23, 1903, 5.

  8. Jerre Mangione, Mount Allegro (New York, 1981), 131.

  9. See Hasia Diner’s Hungering for America.

  10. “Table Tidbits Prepared Under Revolting Conditions,” New York Tribune, May 11, 1913, D4.

  11. “Quaint Italian Customs of Summer Festal Days,” New York Times, July 12, 1903, 30.

  12. Maria Gentile, The Italian Cook Book (New York, 1919), 133.

  13. Mangione, Mount Allegro, 131.

  14. Richard Gambino, Blood of My Blood: the Dilemma of the Italian American (Toronto, 1996), 92.

  15. Author’s recipe.

  16. Concetta Rizzolo’s family recipe, contributed by her grandson Stephen Treffinger.

  17. Jeannette Young Norton, “Going Marketing in ‘Little Italy,’” New York Tribune, July 23, 1916, C5.

  18. “Italian Housewives’ Dishes,” New York Times, June 7, 1903, 28.

  19. “Do Fiery Foods Cause Fiery Natures?” New York Tribune Illustrated Supplement, December 6, 1903, 5.

  20. Gentile, The Italian Cook Book, 76.

  21. “A Bit of Bohemia,” The Vassar Miscellany, February 1889, 154.

  22. “March of the Italian Chef,” The Sun (New York), December 20, 1908, 8.

  23. “Our Italians,” New York Times, November 12, 1875, 4.

  24. “A Sicilian Café in New York,” Harper’s Weekly, November 2, 1889, 875.

  25. “The Italian Cook’s Best,” The Sun (New York), June 20, 1909, 2.

  26. Sarah Tyson Rorer, Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book (Philadelphia, 1902), 301.

  27. “Spaghetti with Meat Balls,” Chicago Tribune, February 21, 1908, 9.

  28. Baldizzi family recipe.

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