97 Orchard
Page 26
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Academy of Arts, 40, 41
Age of Migration, xi
Ainsworth’s Magazine, 78
alcohol consumption, in New York, 31-32
alcohol production, in United States, 31-32
ale, English, 32
Aleichem, Sholem, 174-175
Allaire Iron Works, 6
Allaire, James, 6
Amchanitzki, Hinde, 158-159
America, abundance of, 191
American food traditions, and Irish servants, 54-55
Americanization:
of immigrants, 165-166
and school lunchrooms, 165-166
Americans:
as pie-eaters, xiv attitude toward alcohol, 34
attitude toward Italian immigrants, 187-188
attraction to German foods, 41
dislike for Italian food, 217-218
introduction of immigrants foods, xiv
love of spaghetti, 223-225
Ansche Chesed (synagogue), 95
anti-Semitism, 133
apartments, at 97 Orchard, 7
arancini (rice balls), 210
The Art of Jewish Cooking, 151-152
Ashkenazi Jews, culinary traditions, 88-91
Astor, John Jacob, as tenement investor, 5-6
Atlantic Gardens beer hall, 35-36
“Aunt Babette” (Bertha Kramer), 101, 110, 111
Aunt Babette’s Cook Book (Bertha Kramer), 97-98, 122
The Auxiliary Cook Book (Hebrew Sheltering Guardian Society), 101
baccala (salt codfish), recipe, 226
bacon, and Jews, 98
bakeries, German, description, 27-28
bakers, German, 27-31
Baldizzi family:
and bread, 210
and Depression, 199
Christmas dinner, 226-227
life, xi, 184, 197-200, 212
meals, 199-200
move to Brooklyn, 225-226
Baldizzi, Adolfo, 197-198, 212-213, 225
Baldizzi, John, 199
Baldizzi, Josephine, 199, 212
Baldizzi, Rosaria, 197-200, 212-213, 225-227
bananas, 127
banquets:
German, 43, 80
German-Jewish, 121-122
Irish-American, 80
medieval, 91
messianic, 91-92
Thanksgiving, 130-131
Beecher, Miss, 70
“beef an” (corned beef and beans), 73
beer halls:
food served at, 36
German, xiv, 34-36, 42
Signs, 27
beer production, New York, 31-32
beer, German:
as family drink, 34-36,
at picnics, 44-45
bock, 25
Germany, 22, 31-36
lager, 33, 44-45
Bennet, James Gordon, 73
berches (Jewish ritual bread), 91
Beyer, Annie, 141
Beyer, Joseph, 141
“beygals” (bagels), xiv
Black Hand, 188
blintzes, 106, 156
Bloch Printing, 98
Bloch, Edward, 98
Blood of My Blood (Richard Gambino), 195
boarders, 142
boardinghouse dwellers, as “hash eaters,” 70-71
boardinghouses:
cuisine of, 70-71
food supplies of, 17
immigrant, 66-70
Irish, 67-70
Italian, 186
kitchens, 69
landladies, 69-70
New York, 1, 221
Bohemians, New York, 37-39
bondes (potato dish), 109
book vendors, pushcart market, 158
borscht, 147
The Boston Cooking School Cook Book, 224
bouillon cubes, 187
Bowery, the, 20-21, 35-36
boycott, meat, 178-179
bread crumbs, 210-212
bread peddlers, 208-209
bread:
German, 28
importance to Sicilians, 207-212
Sicilian, 209-210
symbolism, 208
traditions in New York, 28
Vienna, 29-30
Breakstone & Levine, 152
breweries, 32-33
brewers, German, 32-33
A Brief Account of the Author’s Interview with His Countrymen (Jeremiah O’Donovan), 67-68
Brieneh, Hannah (fictional character), 181
“Bringing Up Father,” 81
Brooklyn Eagle, 10
Brooklyn:
Baldizzi family in, 225-226
Sicilians in, 195, 208
brothels, 52-53
Brown, Mary, 52
Browne, Junius Henri, 15
burial societies, German, 22
butchers, signs, 26-27
butter, Irish and, 58, 63
butter, Jews and, 111
buttermilk, 60
cabbage, 61, 78
caciocavallo (Italian cheese), 194
cafés:
as political clubs, 175-176
East Side, xiv
Hungarian Jewish, 172-174
kibitzing in, 174-175
Russian Jewish, 174-175
Sicilian, 222
cakes, German, 30-31
campanilismo (Italian love of hometown), 222
candy factories, 201-204
candy, Italian, 200, 204-207
carp, in Jewish cuisine, 83-84, 86-87
Castle Garden, 63-64
Catherine the Great, 132-133
census:
1850, 2-4
1870, 3
1880, 4
history of, 3-4
Irish, 59
pushcart, 145
Centennial Exhibition (Philadelphia), 29
challah bread, 87, 90, 91, 155, 156
challah recipe, 157-158
Chanales, Lillian, 180
charity, stigma, 154-155
Chicago Tribune, 224
chicken fat, 118
chicken market, Lower East Side, 117
chicken noodle soup, 107
children:
German, and beer, 34-35
Lower East Side, as firewood collectors, xiii
Chinese railroad workers, and food, 187
cholent, 103, 141
chop suey, farmer’s, 147
chopped liver, vegetarian, recipe, 179-180
Chotzinoff, Samuel, 170
Christmas baccala (salt codfish), recipe, 226
Christmas dinner, Italian, 226-227
Christmas traditions:
German in America, 25
New York, 79-80
Cincinnati, 97, 98, 100
Citizens’ Association, 114
Clapp, Henry, 38
“coffee and cake shops,” 71-72
coffee cake:
German, 30-31
recipe, 30-31
coffee, Hungarian Jews and, 172-173
Cohen, Fannie, 155-158
Collect pond, 5
confectioners, Italian, 204
confetti (Italian candy), 200, 204
Congregation Emanuel (synagogue), 86
contadini (Southern Italian peasants), 195
cookbooks:
German-Jewish, 91, 110
Jewish, 98, 158-159
cooking classes, settlement house, 160-165
cooks, boardinghouse, 17, 70
cooks, Ellis Island, 139-140
Cooper, John, 89
Cork, Ireland, 58, 77
corned beef, 70
corned beef and cabbage, 76-82, 129
Council Cook Book (Council of Jewish Women), 101
The Country Housewife’s Family Companion (William Elllis), 77
courtyards, tenement, 1-2, 7
credit, buyi
ng on, 14
Crisco Recipes for the Jewish Housewife (Procter & Gamble), 118
Crisco, 118
croccante (almond brittle), recipe, 206-207
Cromwell, Oliver, 56
Crusades, 89
cucuzza (Italian squash), 216
Daily Forward, 104, 146
dairy foods, Irish, 56, 57
dairy restaurants, Jewish, 177-180
dandelion-pickers, Italian, xiii dandelions, wild, 215-216
Davidis, Henrietta, 9, 12, 26
De Voe, Thomas, on markets, 15-17
DeCasseres, Benjamin, 40-41
“delicatessen habit,” 167-168
delicatessens:
and East European Jews, 169-170
aromas, 169
backlash against, 167-168
German, 19
herring dishes at, 19-20
New York, 166-171
products, 167
Delmonico’s, 37
deportees, love of Ellis Island food, 130
Deutsche Bund (“German League”), 21
Deutsche-Amerikanische Schutzengesellchaft, 43
Diner, Hasia, 59
dining room, Ellis Island, 126-131
dining rooms, German-Jewish, 99
dinner staples, nineteenth-century America, xiv
dinners, German-Jewish, 104-106, 121, 122
Dinty Moore’s, 81
Dolan, Patrick, 72-74
Dolan’s Restaurant, 72-74
domestic science movement:
and delicatessens, 167-168
and immigrant food, 163-166
and Italian immigrants, 193
United States, 160-161, 224
doughnuts, 73
dumplings:
accompaniments, 110
German 12-13, 21
green, recipe, 12-13
potato, 109-111
Dutch Reformed Presbyterian Church, 4
East European Jews, and delicatessens, 169
East Prussia:
culinary traditions, 102-103
history, 93-94
Jews, 94
Easter, Little Italy, 204
Eat and Be Satisfied (John Cooper), 89
eating habits, Jewish immigrant, 149-151
Educational Alliance, 160, 162
egg vendors, 107
eggplants in the oven, recipe, 217
Elizabeth Street, 198, 209
Ellis Island:
as “island of tears,” 131
as molder of future citizens, 132
deportees, 126
description, 125-132
detainees, 125-126, 132
dining room, 126-131
dormitories, 126
food contractors at, 127-128
inspection of new arrivals at, 136
kosher food at, 135-140
lunch stand, 127, 134
poor treatment of immigrants at, 131-132
reforms at, 132
employment agencies, 52-53
England, interference in Ireland, 56
English culture in New York, 48
Enlightenment, Jewish, 95-96
Ermich’s, 36
Essex Market, 19
ethnic biases, against Italians, 187-193
Europe:
Age of Migration in, xi
medieval food culture, 88
potatoes, 107-108
European immigration, peak, 125
The Fair Cook Book (Congregation Emanuel), 86-87
family supper, Italian, 195-196
famines, Ireland, 48, 59
The Famous Cook Book (Congregation Temple de Hirsch), 100, 110
Farmer, Fannie, 9, 224
farms:
Ireland, 56-57
Italian, 216
fat:
chicken, 118
hydrogenated, 118
Jewish use of, 111-113
feast foods, Italian, 196-197
feste (Italian festivals), 204-206
Fifth Avenue Hotel, 80
Fine & Schapiro, 169
First Principles of Household Management, 71
fish hash, recipe, 71
Fishel, Harry, 136-137
Fisher’s Alley, 23
Five Points (neighborhood), 5, 20, 65-66, 220
flavors, Jewish food, 149-151
Fleischmann, Louis, 29-30
Fleischmann’s Instant Yeast, 30
foie gras, 114, 116
foie gras, faux, recipe, 116
food:
customs, European, in America, xiv-xv
distribution, shadow economy, 191
expenses, Irish immigrants, 62-63
exports, Ireland, 57-58, 77
laws, Jewish, see kashruth
merchants, Lower East Side, 180-181
peddlers, Dublin, 78-79
rackets, 115, 231-232n
sharing, 152-157
stores, Lower East Side, 152
trades, ethnic, 27
sacredness of in Jewish culture, 119
food-joy, Jewish, 119-122
Foods of the Foreign-Born in Relation to Health (Bertha Wood), 149
foods, forbidden, 95-101
force-feeding, geese, 112
Foster, George, 76
14th Street, as entertainment district, 39-40
frankfurters, 22, 26, 41, 169, 170
Frederick the Great, 108
Frishwasser, Regina, 146-147
fruit, at pushcart markets, 147
Fulton Market, 14, 18
Gabel, Paul, 166-167
“Gallery of Missing Husbands,” 104
Gambino, Richard, 195, 207
gardens, home, 216
garment industry, home workers, 202
gefilte fish, 87-88, 91-93, 103, 155-156
gefilte fish recipe, 92-93
Gellis, Isaac, 169
generosity, of tenement dwellers, 154-157
Gentile, Maria, 206, 217
German foods:
in East Prussia, 103
transmission to Americans, 41
German immigrants, biases against, 191-192
German Jews,
arrival in New York, 98
delicatessens, 168-169
holiday foods, 105-106
poor, foods of, 106-107
Sabbath observances, 96
secular education, 96
use of potatoes, 107-111
Germans:
and alcohol, 34
as model immigrants, 37
bakers, 27-31
breweries, 32-33
culinary footprint in America, 55
dialects, 21
dinners, 118-119
dumplings, 12-13
food trades, 27
grocers, 13-14
lunch rooms, 36-37
markets, 2
meeting halls, 42-43
noodles, 12-13
northern, as fish eaters, 19
pancakes recipe, 39