97 Orchard
Page 29
spaghetti, early description, 218-219
spaghetti, adoption by Americans, 223-225
spaghetti and meat balls, recipe, 224-225
Spewack, Bella, 154-155
St. Patrick’s Day, 80, 82
Staats-Zeitung (New York), 36, 131
stale bread, 210
steamship companies, and immigrant food, 127
steerage, steamships:
conditions, 48-50, 134
food in, 49-50
health risks in, 49
poverty of passengers in, 50
regulation of conditions, 50
stewed fish, recipe, 86-87
stews:
German, 8-12
hasenpfeffer, recipe, 10-11
veal with dried pear, recipe, 11-12
“stirabout” (Irish porridge), 56
strudel, cranberry, recipe, 159
stuffed cabbage, recipe, 140
sugar, and Irish immigrants, 63
sugar industry, New York, 201
supper, German, 8
sweatshops, 2
Sweeny, Daniel, 72
Sweeny’s (restaurant), 72, 76
“Table Tidbits Prepared Under Revolting Conditions,” 203-204
Taft, President, 136
tailors, German, 4
taverns, Jewish, 93-94
tchotchkes (cheap decorations), 158
tea:
at Russian Jewish cafés, 175-176
Irish and, 63
Telsh, Lithuania, 125
Temple Emanuel (synagogue), 99
tenement buildings, description, 1
tenement candy factories, 201-204
tenement candy, as health risk, 202-204
tenement courtyards, 1-2
tenement poultry farms, 114-117
“tenement problem,” 23
tenement sweatshops, 2
tenements:
and immigration, 5
communal nature, 153-154
early history, xii, 5, 6
food sharing in, 152-157
lack of privacy, 152-153
noisiness, 152-153
rear, 20
Text Book for Cooking and Baking (Hinde Amchanitzki), 158-159
Thanksgiving banquet, Ellis Island, 130-131
Tompkins Square, 20
“trefa banquet,” 100
treyf (“impure”), 98, 101
triticum durum (wheat type), 207
Trow’s New York Business Directory, 166
tuberculosis, 142, 204
Turkeltaub family (fictional), dinner, 104-105
Turnverein, 43-45
United States:
as land of bread and work, 208
demand for immigrant servants, 53
immigrant names for, 207
Irish boardinghouses in, 68
vegetables:
Italian, 214-215
pushcart market, 145, 147
vegetarian chopped liver, recipe, 179-180
vegetarian dishes, Jewish, 179-180
vegetarian restaurants, Jewish, 177-180
vegetarianism, United States, 178
Vereine (German social clubs), 42-45, 80
vermicelli, 89
Vienna Bakery, 29-30
Vienna bread, 29-30
vinegar, spiced, recipe, 10
Vineland, New Jersey, 216
violence, attributed to Italians, 188
Volkfest (German festival), 43-45
voyages, Irish immigrant, 48-50
Wage-Earner’s Budgets (Louise More), 62-63
waiters:
dialect, 74
Irish, 55, 72, 74
Wald, Lillian, 154, 163
A Walker in the City, 169
Wallis, Frederick, 132
Walton mansion, 68-69
Walton, William, 68-69
wards, Lower East Side, 21
Washington Market, 14, 15, 17-18
water, 97 Orchard Street, 7-8
watermelons, 18
West Indies, 77
wheat, Sicily, 207
“When Does Mama Eat?” 108-109
whiskey, 13, 59
Whitman, Walt, 38
Wilde, William, 59
Wise, Rabbi Isaac, 98, 100-101
Wolf, Rebekka, 112
women, Irish, as immigrants, 51-55
Wood, Bertha, 149-151
working class food, American, 129
World War I, and anti-German bias, 191-192
Yezierska, Anzia, 119-120, 161, 181
Yiddish theater district, 176
Yoke of the Thorah (Henry Harland), 121-122
Yonah Schimmel, 177
Yourself and the Neighbours (Seamus MacManus), 60
Zimmerman, Moses, 169
zucchini frittata, recipe, 210-211
Acknowledgments
This book would have no reason to exist if not for the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, the present-day 97 Orchard Street. I am forever indebted to Ruth Abram, founder of the museum and the woman who granted this project the spark of life. I also need to thank Morris Vogel and Helene Silver for their steadfast support, and David Favaloro and Derya Golpinar for sharing their time and their knowledge.
In the course of researching this book I have benefited from the guidance of a small army of food authorities, genealogists, historians, and librarians. I would like to thank Karen Franklin, Roger Lustig, Joel Hecker, Lori Lefkowitz, Vivian Ehrlich, Anne Mendelson, Joan Nathan, Lorie Conway, Roberta Saltzman, Eleanor Yadin, Amanda Siegel, Bonnie Slotnik, Barry Moreno, and Janet Levine. I am likewise grateful to the immigrants, their children, and grandchildren who shared their stories and their recipes. Among them are Barbara Levasseur, Flora Frank, Brian Biller, Josef Griliches, Hannah and Walter Hess, Maria Capio, Francine Herbitter, Lillian Chanales, Betsy Chanales, Frieda Schwartz, and Edy Geikert. And of course, I must thank my incredibly patient editor, Elisabeth Dyssegaard, and my agent, Jason Yarn. Finally, I would like to thank Marjorie and Aaron Ziegelman, Michael Coe, and my friends Stephen Treffinger, Steve Miller, and Joshua Patner for being such perceptive and tireless readers.
About the Author
JANE ZIEGELMAN is the director of the forthcoming culinary program at New York City’s Tenement Museum. The founder and director of Kids Cook!, a multiethnic cooking program for children, she has presented food-related talks and cooking classes in libraries and schools across New York City. Her writing on food has appeared in a number of newspapers, magazines, and books, including The New Cook’s Catalog, and she is the coauthor of Foie Gras: A Passion. She lives in Brooklyn, New York.
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ALSO BY JANE ZIEGELMAN
Foie Gras: A Passion
Credits
Jacket photograph © Bettmann/Corbis, 1890, Probably Lower East Side, New York City
Jacket design by Christine Van Bree
Copyright
97 ORCHARD. Copyright © 2010 by Jane Ziegelman. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins e-books.
FIRST EDITION
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ziegelman, Jane.
97 Orchard: an edible history of five immigrant families in one New York tenement
/ by Jane Ziegelman.—1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-06-128850-0 (hardback)
1. Food habits—New York (State)—New York—History—19th centur
y. 2. Immigrants—Nutrition—New York (State)—New York—History—19th century. 3. Lower East Side (New York, N.Y.)—History—19th century. 4. Lower East Side (New York, N.Y.)—Social life and customs. I. Title.
GT2853.U5Z54 2010
394. 1'20974741—dc22
2009049637
EPub Edition © April 2010 ISBN: 978-0-06-199790-7
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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