Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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B: Hradčanksý. From the station, walk to the other side of the building, and head anywhere in the general south eastern direction—Levetské sady is the enormous park you’ll run into. Open daily dawn-dusk.
PRAGUE EXHIBITION GROUND
PARK
Built on the easternmost section of Stromovka for the 1891 Jubilee Exhibition, this park offers some unique wonders of modern Prague. Coolest among them is the Křižík’s Fountain (U Výstaviště ½0, 170 05 723 665 6941 www.krizikovafontana.cz/en ), a Bellagio-style fountain and lights show that during the summer months is accompanied by live ballet, singers, and musicians (200Kč). Great for a date; if you’re single, the fountain will take your mind off of that—sorry, btw. Other stops include the still-used-but-now-ghostly Industrial Palace, whose Art Nouveau exterior provides a phantom glimpse at the industrial “newness” of the past. There are also several beer gardens, skate rental shops, an enormous pyramid-shaped performance hall, and the Lapidary of the National Museum, which holds major statue structures in their collection—including the original statues on the Charles Bridge. Finally, check out Marold’s Panorama, an impressive circular mural depicting the Czech Battle of Lipany.
C: Nádraží Holešovice. From the station, don’t cross the street; instead, take Tram #5, 12, or 15 to the next stop, Výstaviště.
PRAGUE MARKET
Bubenské nábřeží, 170 00 Praha 7
MARKET
22 080 0592 www.holesovickatrznice.cz
A hundred or more street vendors, food peddlers, furniture salesman, and general bargain-gents call Pražská Tržnice (Prague Market), the city’s largest market, their home. Sprawled out over an enormous campus of once-abandoned warehouses on the banks of the Vlatava river, flea market junkies, or heck, regular junkies can find hot deals on a variety of mainly manufactured goods. Deals won’t walk into your lap, though: bargain hunters need haggling skills in English, Chinese, or Czech. Here’s some advice for haggling: decide the honest price at which you value an item before approaching a vendor; then, stick to it. Don’t be unreasonable, but don’t let yourself get pushed around. Insist on your price, and if you don’t get it, no loss. You can still enjoy the haggle-free bargains like ice cream and pastries (10 Kč). Typical merchandise includes clothes, bags, and toys. Check out the smokeless cigarettes, full-sized swords, and the cheapest porno DVDs you’ll ever find (40Kč). If you object to pornography, these stands will be the perfect place to try out your jeering skills.
C: Vltavská. From the station, walk to the left along the river. Be careful crossing large lanes of traffic. The market is on your left. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm (prime time 9am-2pm).
Dejvice
BRONZE HORSE FOUNTAIN
Between Kafkova and Wuchterlova Streets
Three bronze horses, created by Czech sculptor Michal Gabriel, wade in the waters of the fountain. It’s a sight (and bath) for sore eyes on a boiling summer day, and the 24 trees surrounding the fountain will gladly offer shade.
A: Dejvická. Keep right after the round about and turn right at Kafkova.
Smichov
STAROPRAMEN BREWERY
Nadrazni 84
BREWERY
257 191 402
Staropramen is the second largest beer producer in the Czech Republic and this venue alone pumps out half a million bottles per day. The tour guides you through a few of the giant copper vats that process malt and provides information on the brewing process, closing with a tasting of the liquid you’ve drooled over for the past hour. While it might be worth a trek if you’ve exhausted your options in Prague, the tour itself is quite small for the price.
B: Andel. Tour takes 1hr. Tour and tasting 120Kč. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm.
VYŠEHRAD CASTLE
V Pevnosti 159/5b
CASTLE
241 410 348
A 10th-century castle overlooking the Vltava river and adorned by beautiful black Gothic spires, at Vyšehrad one can find the Basilica of Saint Peter and Paul and a cemetery containing the remains of several Czech notables. The castle was once a royal home, as well as a training center for the Austrian army after the 30 Years’ War. The castle itself is quite beautiful and goes under the radar of most tourists, giving it a serenely untouched feel. Its location high above the city provides a prime angle to capture Prague Castle in the distance.
C: Vysehrad. Or Tram #7, 8, or 24: Albertov. Grounds free. Gallery 20Kč. Open daily 9:30am-6pm.
FOOD
If Czech food speaks to you, it will sing to you. Simple, hearty, rich and pork-filled, Czech meals carry weight. Must tries are the fried cheese (both hermelin or eidam), the pork knees, the goulash with dumplings and the schnitzel (think chicken fried steak). Consistent deliciousness, however, comes at the price of variety. Of the thousand or so restaurants in Prague, 800 of them easily share the exact same or nearly the exact same menu, so don’t feel bad if you’re tempted by the city’s mostly-delicious Thai food or it’s mostly awful but nevertheless omnipresent Chinese food.
The best thing about Prague, however, is the sausages. Whether you’re digging a stand at Wenceslas Square or relaxing at a pub along the river, sausages are served slightly charred in chewy rolls with hearty portions of mustard and a mug of beer. Which brings us to beer, achem, water, achem, the only liquid substance most Czech drink. It comes with every meal (even breakfast), it comes in vending machines (seriously) and it usually costs between 15-40Kč. Beer gets more treatment in Nightlife, but it’s also key for food matters since half the Czech cuisine only exists for beer. Pickled sausages, pickled cheese, head cheese (brains), deep-fried bread (which is amazing), pickled onions, pickled cabbage and toasts of cheese and ketchup all serve to supplement drinking and usually won’t cost more than 30-40Kč.
In fact, most Czech food is disproportionally cheap. Many restaurants will have a daily lunch menu which offers a lunch with soup (usually a simple garlic, noodle and beef soup) and some entree for 80-110Kč, but be warned, the menus are usually Czech only, and you’ll have to ask to see them. The Czech eat small breakfasts, usually just some cheese and hearty bread, but the abundance of tourists has made English and American breakfasts a standard option. Dinner with a mug of beer should come in at below 200Kč, though some items, steaks, pork knees, though available at these prices in some locations, will generally cost you more.
A note about cafes. Hundreds of locations across Prague describe themselves as Cafe Bars. These small-to-large establishments serve both extensive coffee options (including a favorite, Czech rum with coffee) as well as a full bar and usually a small, food menu of beer pairings.
Finally, a note about service and customs. When you enter a Czech restaurant, you are expected to seat yourself, and can even do so at a table already containing other guests. Although Czech service has a bad reputation, things have improved greatly as of late. Bread, pretzels or peanuts at the table are not free, and if you don’t want them, don’t touch them. Tipping is standard at 10%.
Nové Město New Town
PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM
Jecná 15, 120 00 Praha 2
CZECH
29 621 6666 www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum
Packed with Czech locals and a few wandering randos, this stellar microbrewery does Prague’s beer proud. Start off with an 8-beer sampler that includes flavors like coffee, sour cherry, nettle, and banana (130Kč). But make sure you finish it—you’ll need the liquid courage to tackle the football-sized roast pork knuckle with mustard and horseradish (205Kč), or the Brewmaster’s Pocket (205Kč)—deep fried pork stuffed with cheese and more pork. If beer isn’t your thing, you should probably leave Prague, but for now, try settling for some red or white wine served hot (50Kc). If pork isn’t your thing, fear not: vegetarian choices abound.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, take Ječná east away from the river; it’s on your right at the corner of Ječná and Stěpánská. Entrees 140-300Kč. Beer 25-80Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
GLOBE BOOKSTORE
&nb
sp; Pštrossova 1925/6, 110 00 Praha 1-Nové Město
AMERICAN
22 252 0236 www.globebookstore.cz
Americans craving the type of culture that doesn’t involve the Czech obsession with pasteurization will find a friend in the Globe. Great American fare like chicken wings (5Kč) during happy hour (M-W 5-7pm) and one of the best burgers you’ll have this side of the pond (180Kč) both go well with excellent refillable drip coffee (40Kč), a rarity in Prague. Don’t miss brunch (Sa-Su 9:30am-3pm) with brilliantly Western dishes like scrambled chorizo (180Kč). The cafe and attached bookstore host ex-pat book readings, movie screenings, or some kind of event most nights of the week. The bookstore itself has the largest collection of English books in the city.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, take Resslova toward the river and then turn right on Na Zderaze, which becomes Pštrossova; the cafe is on your right. Make reservations if you have a big party. Three computers have Internet access for 1Kč per min. Entrees 100-250Kč. Beer 20-35Kč. Coffee 25-50Kč. Open M-Th 9:30am-midnight, F-Sa 9:30am-1am (or later). Attached bookstore keeps the same hours.
PIZZERIA KMOTRA
V Jirchářích 12, Praha 1
AMERICAN
224 930 100 www.kmotra.cz
Tucked downstairs in a little Czech basement, Kmotra’s puts most American pizzerias to shame at a quarter of the price. Just one of their 36 pizzas (110-170Kc) will fill up two people, but main dishes like gnocchi (125-145Kč) or entree salalds (125-145 Kč) will appease the pizza skeptic. Try the popular Don Corleone—it’s literally soaking in pork fat—or get wild with the Spenatora II, which is cooked with spinach, bacon, and a cracked egg that fries as the pizza bakes. This is serious pizza.
B: Národní třída. From the Metro, head down Ostrovni towards the river. After 2 blocks, take a left at Vorsilska. Entrees 100-200Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
RESTAURACE U ZALUDO
Na Zbořenci 261/5, Praha 2,
CZECH
77 632 7118
Don’t look for this place in other guidebooks or at the top of any “Best of Prague” lists. Instead, U Zaludo is the tiniest, salt-of-the-earthiest, most authentic Prague pub experience the city has to offer. This recommendation however comes with a warning: some customers have reported that no one would speak English to them or even present them with a menu. Fear not: simply learn the Czech for a few common food items: fried cheese, smažený sýr (40Kč), smoked pork, uzená krkovice (55 Kč), beer cheese, pivní sýr (40Kč), and grilled sausage, opečená klobása (40 Kč). This will be the cheapest meal you have in Prague, or Let’s Go will eat its hat. And if no one stops to serve you, at least watch old Praguers come in at noon, down five beers and a shot, then return to work. Worth the experience, even if you chicken out.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head towards the Resslova. Take the first right, then another immediate right at Na Zbořenci. Cash only. Beer 10-30Kč. Food 40-80Kč. Open M-F 10:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm.
LEMON LEAF
Myslíkově 14 Praha 2
THAI
22 491 9656 www.lemon.cz
Besides having great Thai food at reasonable prices (lunch specials 99-129Kč), Lemon Leaf has one of the best happy hours in the city with discounts of 25% on meals (M-F 3:30-6pm). Plenty of tastes reward the daring eater, like cream of artichoke heart soup with saffron and edible flowers (49Kč), but traditional Thai staples are also well executed. Lemon Leaf is at its strongest when Czech and Thai forces work together, as in the milked corn soup with fresh horseradish (49Kč).The weekend lunch buffet is suprisingly elaborate (240Kč), as are the Thai murals and sculptures around the dining room.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From Karlovo, take Rasslova toward the river and then make a right on Na Zderaze. Although the address says Myslíkově, the entrance is on Na Zderaze. Curry 149-169Kč. Noodle dishes 150-200Kč. Wine 240-800Kč. M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-12:30am, Su 12:30pm-11pm.
CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT SLAVIA
Smetanovo nábřeží 2, Prague 1
CAFE
22 421 8493 www.cafeslavia.cz
Café Slavia’s food, which is deserving of its reputation, is only one reason to visit this historic Czech cafe. During communist rule, this bustling cafe was home base for political dissidents like Václav Havel, and, thanks to a recent renovation, you can now experience it as they did in its full 1930s Art Deco glory. The menu, though somewhat pricey, sets Czech standards like beef fillet with cream sauce (189Kč) against more revolutionary fare, like the asparagus-only menu (70-190Kč). Or, skip the meal entirely and join well-dressed pre-theater Praguers for a pre-show “ice cup” (109Kč). The Hot Love cup features vanilla ice cream, warm raspberries and mint.
B: Národní třída. From the station, walk north on Spálená and then turn left on Národní. The restaurant is at the end of the street, across from the National Theater. Entrees 89-300Kč. M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 9am-midnight.
ZVONICE
Jindřišská věž 110 00 Praha 1
ROMANTIC
22 422 0009 www.restaurantzvonice.cz
Visitors to this intimate dining spot located on the seventh and eighth floors of the historic Saint Henry’s Tower will literally have to compete with tower scaffolding for dining space, but the experience is truly one of a kind. Feel the building shake as the bells in the belfry chime every half hour. Definitely a splurge; a coke will cost you what an entire meal might elsewhere (99Kč), but remember that it’s paired with an unbeatable setting. Fancy, exotic main dishes like grilled deer medallions with sour cherry sauce (730Kč) or wild boar with coriander and potatoes (790Kč) ensure you won’t soon forget your meal. There’s technically no dress code, but you’ll feel rather out of place without a tie, or at least a sweet hat!
From Wenceslas Square, walk down Jindřišská. It’s the giant tower at the end of the street. Reservations recommended. Expect to pay 1000 Kč for the full dinner experience. Open 11:30am-midnight.
U MATĚJÍČKŮ
Náplavni 5, 120 00 Praha 2
CZECH
22 491 7136
U Matějíčků does solid Czech favorites very right. Start off with the comically enormous “Big Board full of Goodies” (229Kč), which is an all-star sampling of Czech beer pairings: spicy sausage, smoked pork neck, Hermelin and Edam cheeses, Olomoucke Tvaruzky, hot peppers and pickled onions. Enjoy main dishes (90-229Kč), like old bohemian roast duck or Czech cheese wrapped in English bacon and fried in beer dough, in the dining room decorated to look like the Czech countryside. For the truly brave, try their homemade “Devils’ sauce” (20Kč) and wash it down with some dirt cheap wine (18Kč).
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head towards the Resslova. Take 2nd right (Dittrichova) and the restaurant will be on your left at the fork. Entrees 90-229Kč. Beer 34-40Kč. Open daily 11am-10pm.
CAFÉ CÉLESTE
Rasinovo Nabrezi 80, Prague 2
CAFE
22 198 4160 www.celesterestaurant.cz
Great food and a better view if you’ve got the green for it. Lunch comes in two or three courses M-F (450/550 Kč) and dinner means exotic dishes prepared exotically. If you don’t believe us, try the Moravian suckling pig with black pudding and jus with rasberries (555Kč), fresh crab meat in a seaweed jelly lagoon (405Kč), or rhubarb clafouti with jelly and dark beer milkshake (205Kč). If you just want a peek from the terrace without busting your bank, visit M-F 4-6pm when Céleste opens its roof to mere mortals who order a cocktail (100-150Kč).
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on your left. Lounge is on street level. Restaurant is through the elevator in the lounge. 500-1000 Kč Bar open M-Sa 9am-midnight. Kitchen open noon-2:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm.
Stare Město
GRAND CAFE ORIENT
Ocovný trh 19
FRENCH, CAFE
224 224 240 www.grandcafeorient.cz
In 1912, the Czech architect Gočar built the only ever “Cubis
t cafe” on the second story of the Lady of Black Madonna, the most famous “Cubist building” ever constructed. But at that time, Cubism was a fleeting trend and the cafe closed after just eight short years. After more than 80 years, the cafe was recently reopened with all of the original “Cubist” fixtures. A series of jarring angular lamp posts line the ceiling, and the little terrace out in the front is one of the cutest in the world. One doesn’t expect great food out of a place like this, but that’s where this little maverick surprises. The food, especially the galettes, savory crepes, are incredible. The spinach, ham, bacon, and cheese galette is the best experience you’ll ever have with spinach—that’s a promise.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From the station, head south to U Prašná Brány and follow it as it becomes Celetná. The cafe is on the left at the fork. The cafe is on the 2nd fl., through the museum entrance. Galletes 95-135Kč. Coffee 40-60Kč, Desserts 25-60Kč. Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm.