Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 44
APETIT
Dlouhá 23
CAFETERIA
222 329 853 www.apetitpraha.cz
Slum it like a real Praguer at this local cafeteria chain that might serve up the cheapest grub in Stare Město. Grab a tray, some silverware and select from one of several daily Czech entrees ranging from schnitzel to fried cheese to goulash (67-78Kč). Individual entrees become a dinner with a choice of potatoes, dumplings, or vegetables, and a drink for just a few cents more (89-92Kč). These cafeteria workers are no different from those you remember from grade school—very strict; they’ve even been known to shush policemen!
C: Republicky Náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. Entrees 89-92Kč. Open M-F 9am-8pm. Sa-Su 10am-8pm.
KAVÁRNA OBECNÍ DŮM
Republicky Náměstí 5
CAFE
222 002 763
The price of a coffee and dessert (30-90Kč) or a light sandwich (120Kč) is worth 40 minutes resting under the eight hulking chandeliers in this Art Nouveau master-work. Each detail, from the design of the chairs, to the Alfons Mucha decorated menus, has been specifically chosen to fit the era, and the fountain at the side of the dining room was built specifically for the cafe by the Czech master Josef Pekárek. So sit back, relax, have an oddly affordable breakfast (90Kč).
C: Republicky Náměstí. Separate from restaurant across the hall. Breakfasts 90-200Kč. Coffee 58-79Kč. Entrees 120-470Kč. Open daily 7:30am-11pm.
LEHKÁ HLAVA
Boršov 2
VEGETARIAN
222 220 665 www.lehkahlava.cz
This cozy vegetarian joint whose name means “Clear Mind” hides on a small, quiet street. But that’s the genius of the place—its entire experience rests on relaxing its patrons, from the lightly glowing tables to the fish tank to the earthy, “paper bag” menus. And unlike most vegetarian joints whose portions are sized more for hipster toddlers than for hungry human beings, Clear Mind delivers actual quantities of food. The eggplant quesadilla (145Kč), though blasphemous by Mexican standards, has sharp, crisp flavors and loads up on the cheese. The polenta gnocchi in sheep’s milk (175Kč) takes you outside your comfort zone while comfortably filling you up. For dessert, the millet-based carrot cake is a slice of healthy heaven dipped in chocolate (70Kč). At your meal’s end, if you need a little “pep,” try Brazilian Guaron juice, with triple the caffeine of coffee (45-75Kč). Also, if you’re a monk, ordained clergyman, or “enlightened person,” you’re in luck; you’re saved for time and all eternity, and you eat free of charge.
A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Continue as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží, then make a quick left fork onto Karoliny Světlé. Continue down, them make a left onto Boršov (it’s a tiny street). Reservations recommended. Entrees 90-185Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm. Between 3:30-5pm, only drinks, cold starters, and desserts available. Brunch served 1st Su of the month 10:30am-2pm.
BOHEMIA BAGEL
Masná 2
CAFE
224 812 560 www.bohemiabagel.cz
Though it’s become something of an institution, Bohemia Bagel still delivers solid breakfast and lunch options at bargain prices. If you’ve got a youngster, unleash him or her in the playpen while you enjoy bottomless filter coffee (49Kč) or a bagel sandwich (60-90Kč). If a plump burger (125-150Kč) or American-style sandwich (95-135Kč) can’t convince you, then maybe you’ll be pleased with the ice-cream chipwich (80Kč). Incredible breakfast special of any egg sandwich served with bottomless soft drink, tea or coffee (89Kč) offered M-F before noon.
A: Staroměstského. From the station, take Kaprova away from the river and through Old Town Square. Stick to the left as you cross the square, and take Dlouhá on the opposite side. At the roundabout, take a right on Masná 2. Internet 1Kč per min. Bagels 30-50 Kč. Open daily 8am-11pm.
KLUB ARCHITEKTŮ
Betlémské náměstí 169/5A
CZECH, ROMANTIC
224 248 878 www.klubarchitektu.com
Surprisingly sophisticated and reasonably cheap for Old Town, this little place makes good grounds for a classy evening. Low-vaulted ceilings and the lowest hanging lamps you’ve ever seen (ask and they’ll raise them up for you) will make you feel out of place in shorts or flip flops, but nobody will tell you you can’t be there. Don’t stop by if you’re in a hurry; the fractured and separated serving areas means you can go 10 minutes at a time without seeing heads or tails of a waiter. Food is Czech chic, but if you’re not here mostly for the ambience, you’ll be disappointed.
B: Národní třída. From the station, head north on Spálená continuing as it turns into Na Perštýně. When it forks, take the left fork. Restaurant is down a somewhat unmarked staircase through a courtyard on your left. Entrees 130-280Kč. Desserts 80-105Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.
LA CASA BLU
Kozi 15
MEXICAN
221 818 270 www.lacasablu.cz
A favorite among locals, La Casa Blu provides a meeting place for Latin culture in this city so often lacking thereof; the walls serve as gallery space and Latin musical artists regularly perform. Though it’s hidden down a sketchball alley, the scene inside this casa is bright and happening as locals sip cervezas in this smoke-free environment. Suprisingly big for the small cafe vibe it maintains, the food here is not to be underestimated, with dishes like Prague’s only non-embarrassing selection of nachos (100-200Kč) and loaded quesadillas (128-148Kč). La Casa Blu also stays hip late with tequila (69-139Kč).
C: Republicky Náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. At the roundabout, take a right on Kozí. Entrees 150-290Kč. M-F 10am-late, Sa 11am-late, Su 2pm-late.
U RUDOLFINA
Křížovnická 10
CZECH
222 328 758
You might have a bit of a struggle ordering here, but you’ve gotta give up something to eat at the cheapest, most authentic pun in Old Town. This locals-only favorite seems small on the first floor, but opens up downstairs to an impressively large restaurant, with antique photos and street lamps selling the 1930s effect. The staff speaks a wee bit of English, which should be enough to land you a polévky (soup; 22Kč) or a plate of guláš (goulash; 98Kč). Even more elaborate dishes like uzené koleno (smoked pork neck; 149Kč) or pečené koleno (sliced roast pork knee; 199Kč) are incredible deals.
A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Entrees 65-199Kč. Beer 18-35Kč. Open daily 10:30am-11pm.
CHOCO CAFE
Liliová 4/250
CHOCOLATE BAR
222 222 519 www.choco-cafe.cz
Let’s Go highly reccommends a series of fantastic desserts in Choco Cafe’s case. The tiramisu (80Kč) comes in loaf form and will make your stomach smile. The various hot chocolates might be a little overpriced (59-95Kč), but the espresso (35Kč) is actually more of a bargain than you’ll find elsewhere in Old Town, especially coming from Choco’s ravishing waitresses.
A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. At the bridge, head away from the river down Karlovo and take a left at Liliová. The cafe will be on your left. Toasts 85-93Kč. Desserts 50-100Kč. Open M-F 9am-8pm Sa-Su 10am-8pm.
Josefov
LA VERANDA
Elišky Krásnohorské 2/10
INTERNATIONAL
224 814 733 laveranda.cz
While its pastel, flowery decor might make La Veranda appear a place for old, lunching ladies, the ingredients used are just as applicable to any man. The tagliolini with tiger prawns and sun-dried tomatoes will surprise both your tongue and your wallet (295Kč).
Tram #17: Právnická fakulta. Soup 145Kč. Pasta 225-295Kč. Entrees 430-495Kč. Open M-Sa noon-11:30pm.
LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO
Kaprova 19/5
CUBAN
224 813 922
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br /> It’s always a party at this Cuban restaurant where Latin music flows almost as freely as the mojitos. While there are a few vegetarian options (gorgonzola cheese and raspberry salad 180Kč), this is the place to go for beef with beef. Don’t leave without trying the Mojo—grilled beef fillet served with Cuban baked potatoes (485Kč). While most of the meatier entrees are a little pricey, it’s certainly possible to keep within budget with an equally hearty appetizer paired with a delicious soup (85Kč).
A: Staroměstská. About 25m east on Kaprova from the Metro. Latin music and dancing most nights. Salads 155-190Kč. Entrees 98-485Kč. Open daily 9am-2am.
Malá Strana
BAR BAR
Všehrdova 17
PUB
257 312 246 www.bar-bar.cz
Discovering Bar Bar anywhere would be an accomplishment, with its saturation of local flavor, infusion of exotic influences, and balance of excitement and hominess. However, this gem hides just off the main street in touristy Malá Strana. The pub’s dishes resemble Mom’s home cooking. If the thought of Mom’s home cooking is too traumatizing, you can cook your own food on a stone grill (490Kč). Be warned: this vegetarian-friendly cellar restaurant is becoming more popular; come on the early side, because they don’t accept reservations.
A: Malostranská. From the station, take the Tram #to Újezd, walk north on Újezd, then turn right on Všehrdova. Entrees 139-325Kč. Tapas 175Kč. Beer 23-49Kč. Mixed drinks 90-160Kč. Open Su-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am.
spread ’em
Spread your cheeses.
Czech-side, the story is sweeter and softer, unlike what we’re used to: cheese that rhymes with macho made from 1 part milk and 3 parts industrial plastic. For starters, Praguers spread soft cheese on rolls or toasted bread, not just corn tortilla chips; what’s more, soft cheese can comprise a meal in its own right, or be a featured component of a successful larger meal.
Soft, spreadable cheese usually comes as a wheel or as individually-wrapped wedges. If you’re thinking, “I’ve SEEN cheese like this,” it’s because fortunately, one brand of spreadable cheese has found its way to the colonies. Copyright disputes prevent me from naming the brand, but the image of a “chuckling bovine” may come to mind.
But any Czech would laugh at the idea that this brand could cover the spectrum of soft cheese. Czechs spread the love by adding flavors to the basic creamy base. Se žampiony adds mushrooms to the mix, se šunko ups the stakes with ham, and other styles add herbs, spices and just about anything else your heart can dream up.
RESTAURANT SOVOVY MLÝNY
U Sovových Mlýnů 503/2
CAFE
257 220 121 www.restauracemlyny.cz
If you make it here by 4pm, you’re in for an unforgettable treat—a classy, riverside feast for the price of a non-feast thanks to Sovovy Mlýny’s ultra cheap “daily menu.” Specials like beef over mushrooms and potato gnocchi (124Kč) change daily, but are always delicious and filling. To keep things even cheaper, come for the daily dessert menu (20-85Kč) for traditional Czech sweets like cottage cake (75Kč) or apple strudel (60Kč). But be warned, after 4pm this place comes to its senses and starts charging what it ought to. Sculptures from the attached modern art museum, like the enormous row of plastic yellow penguins, are great conversation pieces.
A: Malostranská. From the station, head south past the Charles Bridge, sticking to the side of the river. When you reach the park, the restaurant will be in the middle, right long the water, behind the freaky baby statues and the art museum. Daily menu 100-150Kč. Entrees 255-455Kč. Open daily 10am-11pm.
DOBŘÁ TRAFIKA
Újezd 37/400
CAFE, WINE BAR
257 320 188 www.dobratrafika.cz
An excellent little cafe and wine bar popular with artists, musicians, and other tea-drinking types. Speaking of tea, this place has a four-page menu dedicated to it, and—the rarest sight in all of Prague—a selection of different coffees. Food pickings might be a little meager, but who can complain when there are seven different types of mead (20Kč).
A: Malostranská. From the station, take the Tram #to Újezd, walk north on Újezd. Cafe is through the specialty store in front. Pitas 13-50Kč. Coffee 30-50Kč. Open M-F 7:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 9am-11pm.
RESTAURACE TLUSTÁ MYŠ
Všehrdova 19, 118 00 Praha 1
CZECH
605 282 506 www.tlustamys.cz
Tulstá Myš, “Fat Mouse” directly next door to its neighbor, Bar Bar, has a similar vibe, similarly awesome food, and similarly great prices. Adorable “fat mice” dance around the menu. Grilled sausages (55Kč) are cheaper than a street vendor’s, and the daily menu has terrific international samplings, like Mexican beans with beef (99Kč). The cozy pub is also a great place to spend an evening sipping “Fire Water,” Czech liquors like Bechorovka, plum vodka and Fernet (20-40Kč).
A: Malostranská. From the station, take the Tram #to Újezd, walk north on Újezd, and then turn right on Všehrdova. Entrees 99-150Kč. Soup 24Kč. Beer 20-34Kč. Wine 32Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10pm.
POD PETŘÍNEM
Hellichova 5
CZECH
257 224 408 www.pivnicepodpetrinem.cz
This friendly, ultra-traditional Czech pub has just a few menu items: goulash (99Kč), schnitzel (129Kč), and pork knee (139Kč) among them at medievally cheap prices. The older Czech crowd won’t be speaking English, and won’t even have an English menu for you, but the few staff members who speak English will happily translate.
A: Malostranská. From the station, take the Tram #to Hellichova and walk south to Hellichova on your left. Entrees 99-140Kč. Beer 18-26Kč. Mixed drinks 40-95Kč. Open 11am-12:30am.
KAVÁRNA ČAS
Míšenská 92/2
SNACKS
721 959 903
A delicious and cheap stop for a light lunch or dinner comprised entirely of snack food, the delights of this joint are all small, but magical. The snacks are made with recognizable ingredients, but are combined in a 100% foreign way. Toasted cheese sandwiches (45Kč) come with ketchup, and strudel pastries (40-65Kč) are filled with bologna, sausage, or cabbage. These magical bites won’t fill you up, but they won’t empty your wallet either.
A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov toward the river, turn right on U. Luzické Semináré. Take a right when you get to Míšenská. Toasts 45Kč. Beer 23-30Kč. Espresso 25Kč. Open daily 10am-8pm.
CAFE KAFÍČKE
Míšenská 10
CAFE
724 151 795
A quiet stop for expats and other locals smack in the middle of tourist town, Cafe Kafíčke also has the distinction of being the first “non-smoking” cafe in all of Prague, when the American couple running this establishment had a child. You never know who’ll be stopping by, from famous Czech film directors, to musicians to actresses. This small cafe’s customers include some big names; maybe that’s why they also accept euro.
A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov toward the river, turn right on U. Luzické Semináré. Take a right when you get to Míšenská. Espresso 38Kč. Sweets 12-52Kč. Open daily 10am-10pm.
Hradčany
U ZLATÉ HRUŠKY SAVE
Nový Svět 3
INTERNATIONAL, CZECH
220 514 778 www.restaurantuzlatehrusky.cz
Try the innovative goat cheese in a puff pastry, with arugula and bacon chips (290Kč)—and sail away to a far-off galaxy. The place has a terrace for every season, so even if you come in winter you can enjoy the crisp air and snowy landscape while noshing on beef carpaccio (290Kč). Not for the faint of wallet.
Tram #22 or 23: Brusnice. From the stop, walk across the street to the leafy pathway, down the stairs, turn left at the 1st street after the hotel and walk until you see the restaurant terrace on your right. Soup 190Kč. Entrees 290-690Kč. Dessert 190Kč. Open daily 11am-1am.
RESTAURACE NAD ÚVOZEM
Loretánská 15
CZECH
220 5
11 532
Tricky to find but worth the search—the view of Petřín Hill and the surrounding area is one of the best you can get. The atmosphere is friendly and casual, and you might even spot a real Czech person eating here on occasion. The menu majors in traditional Czech, with an emphasis in skewers (169Kč).
Tram #22 or 91: Brusnice. From the tram, take U Brusnice south and then turn left on Loretánská. Turn and go down the stairs toward Úvoz; the entrance will be on your left. Entrees 159-279Kč. Daily menu 179Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
U CÍSAŘŮ
Loretánská 5