Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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SAINTE JEANNE D’ARC CHURCH
11 rue Grammont
CHURCH
A modern wonder in its day, this church was built in the 1930s entirely out of concrete, then painted white to resemble some blend of sci-fi and Middle Eastern architecture. The domed Byzantine ceiling is laden with symbolism: pat yourself on the back if you can figure out the numerical significance of the seven mini domes supporting the church’s three larger domes. Alright, well it has to do with a certain number of virtues supporting a trinity. The church is named after the small chapel to the side, which is dedicated to France’s favorite 17-year-old saint (or witch, if you ask the English).
Take the T37 or bus 22 to Église Jean d’Arc. Open 8am-4:30pm.
MONT ALBAN FORT
av. du Mont-Alban
FORT
Once a 16th-century fort, this massive and now defunct hilltop bastion boasts a stunning view of Nice, the nearby Cap d’Ail, and even Antibes. The brochure says that on a clear day you can see Corsica, but we sadly didn’t. If you’re yearning for a long uphill hike in hot weather, this fort’s for you. Nice plans to convert the fort into a contemporary art museum in the near future, but for now you’ll have to settle for a stroll around the battlements, as visitors are not allowed inside.
Take bus #14 to Chemin du Fort and walk downhill to the fort. Also a footpath exists near the bus stop Escalliers de Verre (bus #81 and 100)
PLACE MASSENA
Place Massena
SQUARE
One of the main centers of the city, this large town square is patterned like a checkerboard, and unlike many areas of Nice, remained relatively untouched during both world wars. The most recent renovations incorporated the tramway into the area, in addition to seven meditating statues perched atop a collection of large poles, designed by Spanish artist Juame Plensa (they supposedly represent each of the seven continents). These figures are joined by breakdancers and street performers during the day and a grittier crowd at night. (Read: take the tram at night.)
Sea Front
The sights that line the Sea Front are largely architectural, with the exception of the villas and estates that have been converted into pretty impressive museums.
MASSENA MUSEUM
65 rue de France and 35 promenade des Anglais
MUSEUM
04 93 91 19 10
Once home to (you guessed it!) the prominent Massena family, this giant seaside estate was donated to the city at the turn of the century by Andre Massena, much to the chagrin of the eldest son who had hoped to inherit it. Exhibits include paintings and photographs of Nice’s old carnival pier and other neighborhoods, as well as a collection of elaborate dresses that would make Barbie blush. The ornate estate proves that France retained a nobility long after the Revolution. Open M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. Free.
MUSÉE BEAUX ARTS
33 av. des Baumettes
MUSEUM
04 92 15 28 28 www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org
When you first see its inconvenient location in the far corner of the city, you’ll be tempted to blow it off (we almost did). For art lovers, that would be a terrible mistake. This villa turned museum holds works by both Picasso and Rodin. One of the most maccabre collections is a gallery by Niçois artist Gustav-Adolf Mossa, whose work includes the most nightmarish, surrealist paintings imaginable, including clowns with bloody knives and harpies on the piles of dead bodies.
Open M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. Free.
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS
promenade des Anglais
PROMENADE
Once a six-feet-wide dirt path, this main artery of Nice was expanded in 1820 by a wealthy Englishman, then inaugurated in 1931 by the Duke of Connaught, one of Queen Victoria’s sons. Today it runs along the beach and connects the Sea Front to the Vieille Ville, and provides an easy footpath between private beaches.
BEACHES
promenade des Anglais
BEACH
The public and private beaches alternate along the Baie des Anges from Vieux Nice as far as the Sea Front goes. Expect to pay for the umbrellas and chairs at the private beaches, bring multiple towels for padding, or buy a cheap beach mat—the beaches here are pretty rugged, and you don’t want to end up sunbathing on jagged rocks. We recommend that you give up the search for sand and just go swimming.
HOTEL NEGRESCO
37 promenade des Anglais
HOTEL, HISTORIC BUILDING
There’s a reason we didn’t list Hotel Negresco under the accommodations—this place is over €400 a night. The classic Niçois architecture is pretty spectacular, though. The hotel has been clasified as a historical building since 2003, ensuring that its bright white walls and pink dome will be in postcards well in the future.
FOOD
Vieux Nice
Food is plentiful and cheap in this part of town. You’ll be able to find the expensive restaurants easily enough, but the charm of Vieux Nice lies in its small snack shacks, markets, and hole-in-the-wall socca joints. While heavy on the tourists, Vieux Nice still offers thriving local markets in the Marche des Fleurs and the Cours Saleya (daily 7am-1pm), where flowers are sold at slashed prices alongside candied fruits, fresh produce, olives, and Italian cannolis. There are two large Monoprix supermarkets located in on ave. Jean Medecin ( open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm) and in pl. Garibaldi ( open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm).
LA FERME SALEYA
8 rue Jules Gilly
TRADITIONAL
06 71 84 07 32
This traditional French restaurant will make you think that you’re in the rural countryside of Bretagne or Angers. Cute pottery farm animals hint at the largely carnivorous meal that you’re about to eat. Call ahead for a group, and the chef will prepare a personalized menu at prices that are comparable to the house formule.
Formule €15-22. Open Tu-Su 12-2:30pm and 7-10pm.
FENOCCHIO
2 pl. Rossetti
ICE CREAM
04 93 80 72 52
Serving the best ice cream in France, Fenocchio offers 96 flavors of Italian gelatto, including more eccentric flavors such as beer, avocado, and rose. Traditional flavors like vanilla and pistachio are delicious here too. Let’s Go recommends one of their decadent sundaes for €10-20.
1 scoop €2, 2 scoops €3.50. Open daily 10am-midnight.
RENE SOCCA
2 rue Miralheti
SOCCA
04 93 92 05 73
Forget the tourist-frequented socca joints—this is the only authentic one you’ll find. The lines around the block indicate that this place serves some of the best quality fried Niçois dishes in whole city. Terrace seating with one drink minimum under signs that strongly advise against the use of silverware.
Socca €2.50. Plats €5-10. Open daily noon-9pm.
FLORIAN
14 quai Papacino
CANDY SHOP
04 93 55 43 50 www.confiserieflorian.com
Every sweet tooth’s dream come true, this confectionery offers tours of its factory, where you learn how to make candied fruit, crystalized flowers, and candied orange peels. While the tour might make your mouth water, remain in control of you wallet, since you’ll want to splurge (understandably so) in the pricey yet delicious boutique after being teased with samples.
In the New Port. Tours of factory on demand with video in English or French. Candied flowers €6. Candied fruit assortment €36. Open M-Sa 11am-8pm.
LA MERANDA
4 rue de la Terrasse
PROVENÇAL
08 92 68 06 89
A small 12-table gem on the edge of Vieux Nice, Le Meranda’s chef Dominique le Stanc produces an outstanding menu that changes daily based on the local market fare. Ratatouille and pizza are regularly served here, in addition to traditional Provençal dishes.
Plats €9-13. Reserve in person for lunch and dinner. Open M-F noon-1:30pm and 7-9pm.
Massena
Massena might not offer the backpacker staples of socca and cheap fast food, but i
f you have a little extra to spend on one night out, this is where you want to go. Classy, local, and cheap(er than Vieille Ville), Massena is not as infested with tourists as the rest of the city, and has the traditional cuisine you came to France for.
MANGEZ-MOI
9 rue Blacas
FRENCH
04 93 87 54 71 www.restaurantmangezmoi.com
Adorable French/seafood blend restaurant that has all the kitschy decorations octogenarians go crazy for. Cozy garden seating on ivy-covered terrace. Come for the taster menu of changing daily specials. €15 menu. €25 3-course. Open Tu-Th 9am-8:30pm, F-Sa 8:30-10pm.
SPEAKEASY
7 rue Lamartine
VEGAN
04 93 85 59 50
A throwback to the Haight-Ashbury circa 1967, this vegan restaurant is run by a friendly American expat hippie. Strangers share the small tables when it gets crowded. The menu changes frequently; cross your fingers and hope that Jane whips up her vegan pie.
€14 2-course menu. Specials €9-11. Open M-F noon-2:15pm and 7-9:15pm, Sa noon-2: 15pm.
LE NOLITA
8 av. Durant
CRÊPERIE
06 23 74 66 67
The small, New York-themed crêpe cafe serves lunch and breakfast specials on the small outdoor patio. Pasta specials accompany dessert du jour such as Mousse au Chocolat and sweet crêpes.
Midi menu €11. Crêpes €7-8. Open daily 8am-8pm.
GRAND CAFE DE LYON
33 av. Jean Medecin
BRASSERIE
04 93 88 13 17 www.cafedelyon.fr
One of the oldest brasseries in Nice, this centrally located giant of a bar dominates the shopping area, and is a must for those craving the most elaborate sundae or people-watching combos. Crowds escape the heat by lounging in wicker chairs under rotating fans.
Ice cream €5-11. Cocktails €5.30-7.70. Open daily 7am-11pm.
Sea Front
Most of the restaurants in this neighborhood are small cafes or more upscale brasseries. While eating out here along the promenade might be out of your reach, any of the small alleys that run perpendicular to the beach have cheap gyro stands and pizza places that sell by the slice. If you do happen to sit down at one of the pricey bistros, go for any of the fruit/ice cream cocktails that are frequently served up.
CAFE DE LA PROMENADE
3 promenade des Anglais
BRASSERIE
04 93 82 54 55
If you’re aching for a real American or English breakfast (as real as France can provide, anyway), come to this cabana-esque diner, which features the plush vinyl booths of your local Denny’s and the calorie intake to match. Sandwiches and salads €7-12. Sundaes €7.70-9.70. American breakfast €13.50. Open daily 7:30am-2am.
NISS’TANBUL
4 bld. Gambetta
GREEK
06 23 12 66 32
A budget traveler’s dream. Renowned for its cheap gyros and Turkish fast food, Niss’tanbul whips up hot kebabs and baklava and pours out cheap Greek and Turkish wine.
Gyro €5. Plats €9-10. Open daily 11am-midnight.
POMODORISSIMO
2 rue Gambetta
PIZZA
04 93 02 43 67
Enabling the beach bums of the world one slice at a time, this hole-in-the-wall fast-food joint is ideally located for sunbathers. There’s also a small seating area, if you aren’t in a hurry to get back to the sand.
Pizza slice €2.50. Open daily 11am-8:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Vieux Nice
BULLDOG PUB POMPEII
14, 16 rue de l’Abbaye
BAR, LIVE MUSIC
04 93 85 04 06 www.bulldogpub.com
One of Nice’s best-kept secrets for locals and intrepid backpackers, this ’60s and ’70s rock-themed pub hosts live music every night. The house is regularly packed with young people, who resort to barstools and tablestops for standing room.
Live music, smoking lounge upstairs. Beer €6. Cocktails €8. 6 shots €18. Open daily 8am-4am. Live music starts at 10pm.
WAYNE’S BAR
15 rue de la Prefecture
PUB
04 93 13 46 99
Wayne’s is a late-night institution in Nice, with an English-speaking staff that caters to rowdy, spitting crowds of unwashed backpackers. Huge crowds at night gather for pop-rock music and drunk, travel story swapping (sounds like a Let’s Go office party).
Tourist bookings for bungee jumping, sailing, day trips to towns. Happy hour pints €3.90. Beer €6.20. Cocktails €7.50. Open daily noon-2am. Kitchen open noon-11pm. Happy hour 5-8pm.
MA NOLANS
2 rue François
PUB
04 93 81 46 90
Upscale and fun Irish pub that offers karaoke and trivia (with prizes for the winners). House speciality here is pear cider, if you happeneed to be debating a splurge on a pint or whiskey cocktail.
Trivia night on M 8pm. Karaoke F 10pm-close. Beer €3.90. Cocktails €7.50. Open M-Sa noon-2am. Happy hour 5-8pm.
LE SIX
6 rue Raoul Bosio
GAY BAR
04 93 62 66 64
One of the most opulent and creative gay bars in the Riviera. The large space dates back to the Belle Époque, with a room displaying the shower for its nightly shower show. Telephones scattered throughout bar randomly connect to each other for secret chatting with anonymous patrons.
Beer €7. Cocktails €10. Open daily 10pm-5am.
3 DIABLES
2 cours Saleya
BAR
04 93 62 47 00 www.les3diables.com
This bar has become a hopping youth hangout thanks to its Thursday night student prices; just flash your student ID for a dramatic reduction in prices. The two-story bar regularly serves both locals and backpackers. After midnight, DJs turn the bar upstairs into more of a club.
Karaoke W night. Student night Th, pints €4.. Liquor €3.50. Pints €6.80. Cocktails €8. Open daily 5pm-3am. Happy hour 5-9pm.
NOCY-BÈ
4,6 rue Jules Gilly
HOOKAH
04 93 16 93 20
Traditional Maghreb hookah bar with low lighting, low couches, and no alcohol consumption. Bright cushions, Moroccan lamps, and arched doorways allow you to take a trip across the Mediterranean without the 24hr boat ride.
No alcohol served. 1-drink min. (as in soda or tea). Hookah €10. Tea €4. Open M-Sa 3:30pm-12:30am.
PUB OXFORD
4 rue Mascoïnat
PUB
04 93 92 24 54
The cheapest booze in town is served at this new English pub in the center of the old city. Walk through the red telephone booth in the doorway and enjoy the delightfully tacky atmosphere and good company.
Happy hour shooters €1.50; cocktails €4; pints €3. Liquor €6.40. Beer €6.50. Open daily 7pm-5am. Happy hour 7-11pm.
THE PLEASURE
27 rue Benoît Bunico
BAR, SEX SHOP
06 83 81 61 63
For the truly adventurous or hedonistic, this sex shop/bar should take you well past your limits, with its pink feathery decor and extensive drink list of suggestive cocktails such as “Sensual” and “Desire.” Friendly owner has experience calming down visibly uncomfortable customers, and regularly reassures patrons that this is a “normal bar.”
Cocktails €6-10. Open Tu-Su 6pm-12:30am.
LES DISTILLERIES
24 rue de la Prefecture
BAR
04 93 62 10 66
Classy bar reminiscent of a turn-of-the-century brasserie. Belt-driven fans and antiquated radios complement the veteran adjoining brewery, reminding us that the Niçois have always drank like sailors, even in the classy Belle Époche.