Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Shots €3. Beer €7. Cocktails €7.50. Open M-Sa noon-2am. Happy hour 6-8pm.
Massena
Massena might not be the backpacker’s first choice for nightlife, but it might tickle your fancy if you’re in town for longer than a week and in need of some serious cultural immersion. Few internationals venture beyond the realms of the Vieille Ville and the comfort of Wayne’s after all.
LA BODEGUITA DEL HAVANA
14 rue Chauvain
BAR
04 93 92 67 24
Papered with Che pics and with rum barrels as tables, this Cuban salsa bar and disco has the feel of a run-down bar in Havana. Serves up Cuban dishes and an extensive list of mojitos (€10.50).
Salsa dancing W-Th 7:30pm. Beer €3. Cocktails €10.50. Open Tu-Su 8pm-2am.
LE TONO
18 rue Clemenceau
TAPAS, WINE BAR
04 93 87 84 17
This laid-back wine bar was repeatedly recommended by locals, and serves tapas at an impressively reasonable €6. The menu is mostly vegetarian, but carnivores can find something to eat here too. The outdoor seating and relaxed jazzy vibe lure customers in for late lunches and drinks long after the sun sets.
Wine glasses €3-4. Beer €5. Vegetarian tapas €6. Open Tu-Su 3pm-midnight.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Festivals and Carnivals
Nice is known for its summer music festivals, particularly the Fête de la Music that occurs on the summer solstice. The bacchanalian Carnival takes place in February or March.
FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE
CITYWIDE
This citywide festival is as unofficial as it is awesome. A treasured Niçois tradition since the mid-’80s, this celebration gets every bar, disco, and restaurant in the city puts on free live music in the streets, cafes and alleyways of the city on the summer solstice. Nice comes alive with everything from pop rock to DJ party music. The crowds get particularly rowdy in the vieille ville, so make sure to watch out for pickpockets and those who wish to ruin the fun, drunken times. Apart from that minor setback, this is Nice at its best; many of the bars open early and stay open well after 3 or 4am, and the fast food joints take advantage of the partiers and offer socca and pizza in the early morning as well. Head to the area around Wayne’s and the cours Saleya for the best and most international bands.
Summer Solstice (June).
CARNIVAL
SEA FRONT
www.nicecarnaval.com
France might take pride in its secular society, but this annual excuse to get really drunk and dance around owes its existence to the Catholic culture of Nice. The Promenade des Anglais and the quai des Etats-Unis host two weeks of parades, fireworks, and concerts, while confetti falls like rain in Seattle. Flower processions, masked balls, and endless partying make this the liveliest time in Nice’s winter.
Tickets €10-30.
NICE JAZZ FESTIVAL
Arenes et Jardins de Cimiez
CIMIEZ
08 20 80 04 00 www.nicejazzfestival.fr
Every July, the quiet area of Cimiez and gardens outside of the Matisse Museum swell with over 55,000 spectators, who flock to the city for the eight-day festival, featuring 75 concerts and over 500 individual musicians.
Free shuttle from the pl. Massena during concerts. €29-49 per night, students €22-36; 3-day passes €96-105; 8-day €185. Concerts 7pm-midnight.
Cinema, Opera, and Theater
CINEMATHEQUE DE NICE
3 espalande de Kennedy
MASSENA
04 92 04 06 66 www.cinematheque-nice.com
The historic theater screens old black-and-white films, documentaries, and art-house staples. The prices here are an absolute steal, but don’t expect box office hits or convenient show times. Schedule changes weekly, and is available at the tourism office and local museums.
Tickets €2. Showings between 11am-8:15pm.
OPÉRA DE NICE
4-6 rue St-François de Paule
SEA FRONT
04 92 17 40 79
Produces stage performances September-May, and hosts visiting orchestras and individual soloists year round. Ballet and Opéra schedule changes and is available at the tourist office. €7-40. Box office open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Branch on ave. Thiers has hotel reservations, restaurant and sights guides as well as a city map and practical guide (Next to the train station. 08 92 70 74 07 www.nicetourisme.com Open Jun-Sept M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-7pm; Oct-May M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm.) Branches at 5 promenade des Anglais. (08 92 70 74 07 Open Jun-Sept M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-6pm; Oct-May M-Sa 9am-6pm.) Airport Location. (Terminal 1 08 92 70 74 07 Open Jun-Sept daily 8am-9pm; Oct-May M-Sa 8am-9pm.)
• CONSULATES: Canada. (10 rue Lamartine 04 93 92 93 22 Open M-F 9am-noon.) UK. (Embassy in Monaco, 33 bld. Princesse Charlotte 377 93 50 99 54) US. (7 ave. Gustave V 04 93 88 89 55 Open M-F 9-11:30am and 1:30-4:30pm.)
• YOUTH CENTER: Centre Regional d’Information Jeaunesse (CRIJ) Posts summer jobs for students and provides info on long term housing, sudy, and recreation. (19 rue Gioffredo, near the Museum of Contemproary Art. 04 93 80 93 93 www.crijca.fr Free internet with Student ID. Open M-F 10am-6pm.)
• LAUNDROMATS: These are plentiful in Nice, so check to make sure you’re not around the corner from one already before going to. (7 rue d’Italie 04 93 85 88 14 Wash €3.50, dry €1 per 18min.) (11 rue de Pont Vieux 04 93 85 88 14 Wash €2.50-6.50. dry €.50 per 8 min. Open daily 7am-9pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Internet access is available on almost every street corner in Nice, usually marked by neon signs in Arabic. Free internet at the CRIJ and Wi-Fi at selected Cafes and bars. Closest Internet from the train station is on rue Theirs across from the Thiers tram stop.
• POST OFFICE: (23 ave. Thiers 04 93 82 65 22 www.lapost.fr Open M-F 8am-7pm. Sa 8am-noon.) Additional branches everywhere in the city.
• POSTAL CODE: 06033.
Emergency!
• POLICE: (1 ave. amrechal Foch 04 92 17 22 22)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACY: Check Nice Matin for rotating Pharmacie de Garde (24 hour pharmacy). Late-night service available by phone.(7 rue Massena 04 93 87 78 94).
• HOSPITAL: (5 rue Pierre Devoluy 04 92 03 33 75).
Getting There
By Plane
Aeroport Nice-Côte d’Azur (NCE; 08 20 42 33 33). Municipal Ligne d’Azur Buses leave ever 30 min for the airport from the train station (#98 direct bus; 8am-9pm, €4). Before 8am, bus #23 (every 15-25min. €1) Makes several stops, including train station. EasyJet flies to London, Vueling to Barcelona and Air France to Paris and other domestic and international destinations.
By Train
There are two train stations in Nice, although the SNCF is far more useful and centrally located.
Gare SNCF Nice-Ville: ave. Thiers (04 93 14 82 12 www.sncf.com) Cannes (40min., every 20min. 5:15am-12am, €6); Marseille (2.5hr., 15 per day, €29-70); Monaco (15min., every 20min. €3.30); Paris (5hr. 6 per day, €94).
Gare de Nice CP. (04 97 03 80 80 www.trainprovence.com), is located at 4bis rue Alfred Binet, 800 m from Nice-Ville. Chemins de Fer de Provence runs to Digne-les-Bains (3.5hr., 5 per day, 6:25am-6:15pm, €18) and Plan du Var (40min., 10 per day, 6:07am-6:15pm. €3.40).
By Bus
Gare Routiere: 5 bld. Jean Juares. (04 92 00 42 93). Buses to national and international destinations. Info booth open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-4pm. Bus #100 runs between Nice and Menton via Monaco. Leaves to Monaco every 10-30min. 6am-8pm, Su every 20min. 1hr., puchrchase tickets onbaord for €1. Leaves for Cannes (40min., every 20min. €1).
By Ferry
Corsica Ferries (04 92 00 42 93 www.corsicaferries.com) and SNCM (04 93 13 66 66) send high-speed ferries from the new port. Reduced rates for those under 25 and over 60. Take bus #1 or 2 to the port. To Corsica (5-6hr., €15-45; bikes €10; small cars €45-75.) The two terminals are on opposite sides of the port, so check sc
hedule ahead of time.
Getting Around
By Bus and Tram
Ligne d’Azur, 3 pl. Massena (04 93 13 53 13 www.ligneazur.com), is the public bus company in Nice. Office open M-F 7:45am-6:30pm. Sa 8:30am-6pm. Buses operate daily 6am-9pm. Tourist office gives out bus schedule and posted times are on bus stops. ( Individual passes €1, day pass €4, week-long pass €15. Night bus runs 9:10pm-1:10am. Tram line runs through Jean Medecin and pl. Massena. Stops every 5 min, 6am-2am along its 9 km route.)
By Taxi
Central Taxi Riviera (04 93 13 78 78) company runs throughout the city ( €20-40 from the airport to the centre-ville) Be sure to ask for the price before boarding and make sure the meter is turned on. Night fares charged from 7pm-7am.
By Bike
Velo Blue (www.velobleu.org) is Nice’s bike rental company. They require that you call or have a French credit card to rent the bike from bike stands. Stands are located all around the city. ( 30min. free, €1 per hr.)
monaco
377
Not every country’s synonymous with flashy cars, yachts, gambling, and income taxes; Monaco’s a pretty special place. Evading taxes turned out to be such a popular idea that the mega-rich flocked here for centuries, hoping to partake in material excess without being pestered by the IRS. While Monaco’s fiscal policies have changed recently, the allure of this tiny principality still revolves around its unparalleled and shameless sense of wealth. Every year, the world stops spinning for the Monaco Grand Prix, where automotive companies and drivers compete to win the world’s most difficult course, then party it up in the glamorous clubs near the first place finish. One step off of the train, and you’ll realize why Grace Kelly was so quick to ditch US citizenship for a life of luxury in this oasis of old world royalty, jammed in the middle of a modern and jetsetting life.
ORIENTATION
Monaco-Ville
Monaco-Ville sits atop the rocher de Monaco, which François Grimaldi climbed and conquered while dressed as a monk (or monaco, in Italian) in 1297. Today, it overlooks the Port of Hercules, and houses the Royal Palace and everything else royal within the city limits. The principality’s royal aquarium, palace, car collection, and church are all located atop this neighborhood, which is barely larger than 5x9 blocks. There’s a reason that this is the area of Monaco that’s most densely packed with tourists. Take some pics, see the sights, then hurry back down the mountain before you feel the need to push past that old lady with a walker who’s keeping that extremely slow cruise ship group from moving on.
Monte Carlo
OK, we’ve all heard of this place. Centered around the Carre d’Or and the Monte Carlo casino, Monte Carlo boasts the fanciest cars, fastest women, and opulent clubs in Monaco. It might cost you a fortune just to step foot in this part of town, but if you don’t mind being Monte Carlo’s token pleibian you should put on your best and go people watch. Who knows—you might even find a rich sugar daddy. Keep going past the casino and you’ll reach the only beach in the principality, as well as the Forum and Sporting Complex.
La Condamine
This neighborhood boasts the cheapest shops, bars, and general cost of living in Monaco. It’s also refreshingly clear of tourists during the day, who are off on excursions to the rocher; at night, it hosts a series of laid-back bars that are seriously lacking in the other parts of Monaco. Located below Monaco-Ville, La Condamine is also where the port’s affordable hotels are, but keep in mind that “affordable” in Monaco requires a slight price adjustment, even from the already expensive Riviera.
Fontvieille
This neighborhood is the quiet western side of Monaco. Home to private apartments and yacht clubs, the parties here happen behind close doors, and there isn’t much left for the common folk, unless you’re looking for a job in the industrial sector. The area is also home to a large shopping complex and Monaco’s soccer stadium, in case you were planning to see the home team.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Oddly enough, the cheapest place to stay in Monaco is in France; the best deals in the area are located in Beausoleil, a small town that overlooks Monte Carlo. If you’re a purist and want to stay within the principality, La Condamine is your best bet for hotels under €100.
Monaco-Ville
There aren’t any. Sorry. The Royal Palace and the private apartments of the uber-rich are located here, and they don’t want anyone renting a room with a sniper rifle and getting a shot at the prince (thats Let’s Go’s guess, anyway).
Monte Carlo
Actually, these hotels aren’t even in Monaco. They’re in France, but don’t worry about it—Monaco’s literally right across the street.
HOTEL VILLA BOERI
29 bld. Leclerc
BUDGET HOTEL
04 93 78 38 10 www.www.hotelboeri.com
It may look sketchy and overgrown from the outside, and the decorative mirrors may date back to the ’70s, but this hotel is clean, simple, and cheap for the area. Small rooms with large beds and bath.
Take either the #4 or #1 bus to Église St. Charles. With the church on your left, walk along rue bl. des Moulins until coming to a stairwell on your left. Walk up the stairwell and turn right. Walk another 60m. Hotel is on your left. Free Wi-Fi and computer. Singles and doubles €58-81; 3rd person €8; 4th person €12.
HOTEL DIANA
17 bld. Leclerc
HOTEL
04 93 78 47 58 www.monte-carlo.mc/hotel-diana-beausoleil
Large comfortable rooms in a classy hotel overlooking the Église St. Charles.
Take either the #4 or #1 bus to Église St. Charles. With the church on your left, walk along rue bl. des Moulins until coming to a stairwell on your left. Walk up the stairwell and turn left. Hotel is on your right. Parking and free Wi-Fi. Singles €45-60, doubles €45-72. Prices vary with inside/port view.
La Condamine
NI HOTEL
1 rue Grimaldi
HOTEL
97 97 51 51 www.nihotel.com
This zany hotel is a cross between a fun house and a madhouse. Crooked bright orange walls and oddly placed mirrors make Ni Hotel a challenge for the epileptic or criminally insane. Suites and apartments available.
From the train station, exit to La Condamine, making a right as you exit the tunnel rue Grimaldi. Continue while the road curves to the left. Hotel on your right. Singles €90-140; doubles from €170.
SIGHTS
Monaco-Ville
THE PRINCE’S PALACE
Monaco-Ville
PALACE
93 25 18 31 www.palais.mc
The lavish palace is open to tourists when the flag is lowered and the prince is away, which, it turns out, is quite often. The free audio tour is offered in 11 languages, and will walk you past the silk tapestries, Royal Courtyard, and chambers that combine the opulence of Versailles with the shock of knowing that a monarch still lives here. Judging by the crowds, you could easily mistake the official portrait of Princess Grace as nothing short of the Madonna, herself. Handicapped access not available. €8, students €3.50. Open Apr 2-Oct 31 daily 10am-6:15pm.
MUSÉE OCÉANGRAPHIQUE
av. St. Martin, Monaco-Ville
AQUARIUM
93 15 36 00 www.oceano.mc
Originally a hobby of Prince Albert I, the monarchy’s extensive collection of exotic Mediterranean fish is publicly displayed in a palatial, five-story aquarium. The aquarium’s main attraction is the shark lagoon and naturalized marine mammals, both alive and stuffed as models. The permanent exhibit on the poles has an impressive section dedicated to global climate change, and each of the aquarium’s 90 tanks manages to recycle 100% of the 250,000 gallons of water that the institution funnels from the marina every day; considering the 80ft. cliff that houses the museum and its restaurant, it’s quite a feat of engineering.
Adults €13, students €6.50. Open Apr-Jun daily 9:30am-7pm, July-Aug daily 9:30am-7:30pm, Sept daily 9:30am-7pm, Oct-Mar daily 10am-6pm.
For detai
ls on Monaco and Monte Carlo map, click here
NAPOLEONIC HISTORY MUSEUM
Place du Palais
MUSEUM
93 25 18 31 www.palais.mc
Containing over 1,000 items from France’s First Empire, this museum was a gift to Albert II from his grandfather. Exhibits display letters of correspondence written by the megalomaniacal general concerning his conquest of Europe and even after his imprisonment on St. Helena. Not straying too far from Monegasque history, the museum also contains the charter granting Monaco’s independence by Louis XII.
Adults €4, students €2. Open Jan-Apr 1 (no joke) daily 10:30am-5pm, Apr 2- Oct 10am-6:15pm, Dec daily 10:30am-5pm.
Monte Carlo
Let’s be honest: you came to Monte Carlo for the casino, and we don’t blame you. Let’s Go won’t advise you on how to play, but we can tell you that citizens of Monaco are banned from gambling—why take money from the rich?