Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 104
TEMPLE OF ISIS
RUIN
Reaching this Egyptian temple involves embarking on a beautiful 10min. hike on a path that leads to the highest point on Delos. The temple itself is fairly intact; a Doric-style marble structure with still-standing columns of impressive but not daunting height or breadth. It was erected in the beginning of the Roman period in honor of Isis, the Egyptian goddess of maternity.
Facing the museum, go right and follow the path. The temple will be on the left side and is marked Temple D’Isis.
DELOS MUSEUM
MUSEUM
Holding the real Lions of the Naxians in a room to the back right, a number of pots and engravings, and a mosaic from the floor of a mansion from the town, this museum is absolutely worth a few minutes of your time. The labels are short and generally provide nothing more than a name and date, but the contents are self-evident.
On the right side of the island, inland from where the boat docks, behind the agora. Photos permitted. Included in €5 admission fee to island. Open Tu-Su from when the 1st ferry arrives to 2:40pm.
TEMPLE OF APOLLO
RUIN
Constructed in the 4th century BCE, the temple is now a giant 33-ton hunk of marble on the ground. The statues of Apollo and a giant building once stood on the slab, but now the base is empty. Although the current remains of the temple are not much to see, the fact that the Greeks could move so much marble to one place is impressive in itself.
Close to the waterfront behind the agora.
HOUSE OF DIONYSUS
RUIN
Step into this semi-restored mansion from ancient times and get a sense of the splendor that has dissolved into rock and weeds. The old plumbing aqueduct is still visible, as is the mosaic on the floor of the courtyard next to the giant columns. The house was initially for more than one family—think along the lines of a modern co-op—but no sign explains how many. On the right of the entrance are the beginnings of a flight of stairs that once led to upper levels of the house but now lead to the sky.
In the back of the winding paths through the houses, on the left side of that part of the island.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
Delos is a World Heritage Site, so everything has been done to preserve the island as it stands. Therefore, the island allows no hotels, only one shop behind the ticket booth, and one restaurant. If you’re a picky eater or really looking to scrimp on funds, bag a lunch. While food in the restaurant beside the museum is not exorbitantly priced, it’s also not the cheapest. Make sure to wear shoes that can provide stability on a rocky terrain, and bring any medications necessary for your trip as there is no pharmacy.
Getting There
Delos is accessible by ferry from Mykonos. Ferries dock at a port located on the far left side of the waterfront, and tickets can be purchased from the booth at the base of the dock or from a travel agency. Ferries ( €15 round trip. 40min.) depart for the island at 9am, 10am, and 11am, and ferries return to Mykonos from Delos at 12:15pm, 1:30pm, and 3pm. No one is permitted to stay on the island past the last ferry.
Getting Around
Delos is geographically small, but there is much to take in from that small patch of land. All moving about the island is done on foot. There are no roads on the island. It is best to grab a map from the booth you pass by when entering the island and where you pay the €5 entrance fee. In a stack to the right of the plexiglass window are maps that suggest different paths through the island’s sights, each based on how much time the visitor will be on the island. Pressed for time? The blue arrows lead to a shorter path than the red arrows.
batsi
22820
Batsi is a small town where tourists are welcomed with a smile. A former fisherman’s base snuggled into a cove at the base of Andros Island’s mountainous terrain, Batsi is peaceful and tiny enough that sometimes the old men sitting in the shop doorways nod kalimera, which means hello. Chances are the person whose domatia you stay in will be cousins with the shop owner who sold you a T-shirt yesterday or with your waiter from dinner the night before. Local kids run around the harbor’s sand beach nude, burying things in the slightly silt-spoiled ground. Local businesses close for an afternoon siesta and any of the tavernas lining the harbor is great for an extended cup of coffee. The most central beach in Batsi is in the middle of the harbor. While this sandy area might not resemble the lavish beaches of other islands, it is still a great place to lounge and pick up some rays.
ORIENTATION
Batsi is set along a harbor, and everything fans out from the crescent of the waterfront. The harbor has two arcs and is shaped like a W when seen from the land looking toward the water. The left concave of the W is the warf side. Boats dock here, and the bank and tourist agency are along the main road near the water. The right concave of the W is a string of shops and buildings. The middle of the W is a row of tavernas and coffee shops, all fairly priced. Other roads lead away from the town up the hill. When facing the waterfront, the main road, if followed to the right, leads to Gavria and Golden Beach. From the same perspective, the main road, if followed to the left, leads to Chora, also known as Andros Town.
The entirety of Batsi is not ideal for handicapped visitors. While it can be explored via car, most of the town is set up along a series of step risers to compensate for the enormous grade in the land that slopes down to the waterfront, making getting around in a wheelchair difficult. The main waterfront level would be passable but the next level of shops might be difficult to access.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Batsi is bursting at the seams with domatia, or rooms to let. Even if you show up to the town without sleeping arrangements, chances are you will be able to find somewhere to sleep with little difficulty. Though there are no cheap hostels to soften the blow to your budget, most domatia are worth the few extra euro. For a listing of domatia in the town, call Andros Information (228 20 41 575).
VORONOFF’S
Main Street
DOMATIA
228 20 41 650
A powerful fan compensates for Voronoff’s lack of A/C, and Voronoff himself only adds to the rest of this domatia’s appeal with his genuine kindness. Spacious rooms, good lighting with switches right above the clean-linened bed, a stone patio outside the rooms, and speedy Wi-Fi all over are just a few of the amenities that make Voronoff’s go from a good place to stay to a great one.
Follow the main street uphill 5min. Free Wi-Fi. Voronoff’s also acts as Batsi’s post office. Singles and doubles €25. Reception 9am-3pm.
HOTEL SKOUNA
Nik. Damianos
HOTEL
237 50 71 183
For a hotel that smells like your grandmother’s attic, head to Hotel Skouna. Flower-patterned bathroom tiles and upholstered chairs straight from the ’50s decorate a hotel that has scents from the same era. There are no computers or Wi-Fi, but the rooms are spacious and clean.
On the right side of the waterfront. Prices can be negotiated. Breakfast €6 Singles €35; doubles €45. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
Batsi itself may not be the most historic of destinations, but within 45min. of the town by car or motorbike lie two old stone remains, and if possible, both are worth the trip. Beaches, of course, abound.
CASTLE OF THE OLD WOMAN
RUINS
If the difficulty of finding the parking lot didn’t make it clear, it will be evident once you arrive at this castle that you are in the wilds of Andros Island. This gorgeous remoteness is the charm of the Castle of the Old Woman, now only rubble and a few scattered stone arches left over from its construction in medieval times when the island was occupied by the Venetians. No picture can accurately capture the full panorama of seeing mountain and sea in every direction. While the ruins of this castle are historically significant, the real gem here is the view.
Roughly 1½hr. from Batsi. Follow the road to Bay of Korthi. On the roundabout at the Bay of Korthi, take the road that runs perpen
dicular to the water out of town for about 8km. Turn right at the sign for Kohilu. From that road, there is a shoddily paved windy road on the left side. Follow the road to the end, and climb the stairs and follow the path to the top. Wear comfortable shoes. No signs. Free. Open 24hr.
TOWER OF AGIOS PETROS
Off the main road to Gavrio
RUINS
In the crook of the mountain, this stone tower looks exactly like where Rapunzel let her hair down. Round and composed of grey stone, it’s a relic of the Hellenistic period and was built to function as a lookout tower. The tower is amazingly well-preserved and located about 5min. past Golden Beach by car. Though it is impossible to climb the tower now, it once stood over five stories high.
About 15min. from Batsi on motorbike. Free. Open 24hr.
GOLDEN BEACH
Along the road to Gavrio
BEACH
Golden Beach, its name apt both for the color of the sand and the color it will turn your skin after a few hours on the sand, is Batsi’s most developed beach. Although a few other sandy patches speckle the coastline, this is the first one with an accompanying beach bar and advertisements. But even with this added attention, the beach stays clean and classy.
Along the road to Gavrio about 15min. by car or motorbike; 45min. by foot. 2 chairs and an umbrella €12.
FOOD
Unlike on some of the other islands, Batsi’s food is decently priced. Eat at one of the many tavernas along the waterfront, sip coffee from cushioned benches, or grab some fresh fruit from the centrally located fruit market. Don’t expect to be amazed by the variety of food here, but chow down on the classic Greek cuisine.
TAVERNA STAMATIS
Wharf side of the harbor
TAVERNA
228 20 41 975
For lack of a better word, Taverna Stamatis, open since 1965, is perfect. The lamb falls off the bone, the beetroot salad (€5) has just enough olive oil, and the waitstaff comes over three times a meal to ask about the food. Climb the steps to this taverna, claim a navy chair, and enjoy the sunset over the Batsi harbor with some fresh calamari. This is why life is worth living.
Opposite the wharf along the left side of the waterfront, up the flight of stairs. Tzatziki €4, fried zucchini €3.50. Meatballs €5. Beetroot salad €5. Greek salad €6. Stuffed tomatoes €5.50. Fish €8-60. Open daily noon-midnight.
TOUNTA’S
To the right of Taverna Stamatis
BAKERY
228 20 41 411
Loaves of freshly baked bread line the walls of Tounta’s, while dishes of sugar-coated cookies and glimmering baklava sit along the shelf space. It is nearly impossible to leave the shop without a few calories in a bag or already in your belly. The offerings are simple—all things that are delicious and bad for you—and the woman behind the counter is generous. Even if you are not in the market for some kourampies (almond cookies with a powdered sugar coating), chances are she will give you a free taste.
On the 2nd tier of shops on the left side of the waterfront, facing the water. Past the tavernas along the steps from Taverna Stmatis. One big piece of baklava €1.50. Cookies 20 for €9. Fresh bread €1.80 per kg. Open daily 7am-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
When it comes to nightlife, Batsi is no Mykonos. During the day the clubs moonlight as coffee shops, but at night the dance floors open up to willing patrons. Enjoy a leisurely drink looking out over the harbor early in the night, as dancing does not get started until around 2am.
NAMELESS
In the corner on the wharf side of the waterfront
BAR, DANCE CLUB
228 20 41 488
The last stop of the night for locals and tourists alike, Nameless has earned itself a reputation as the best place to go in Batsi. In the midst of renovations, the inside combines an ultra-modern atmosphere—think white tea-cup barstools and black-tiled bathrooms—with chandeliers and brick walls that look like they are straight out of a dungeon. Try a late-night Juliet, a mojito with gin (€8), at the bar with the cheapest cocktails in Batsi.
In the corner on the left side of the waterfront, before the road rounds to Taverna Stamatis. Newly designed garden behind the main entrance serves coffee during the day and cocktails at night. Free Wi-Fi with purchase. Cocktails €8. Coffee €2.50-3.50. Open 24hr.
CAPRICCIO
Along the wharf side of the waterfront
BAR
Taglined “The Island Bar,” Capriccio can be recognized by its white outdoor tables and the ’90s music that plays from its speakers throughout the day. Inside the chairs are low to the ground, and playful marbles decorate the windowsills. Views of the harbor from the outdoor seating are beautiful, so feel free to make a night of this place with a post-dinner coffee and then a late-night cocktail.
On the left side of the waterfront before you reach Taverna Stamatis. Coffee from €2.50. Beer €5-8. Cocktails €11. Open daily 9am-3am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Batsi has no tourist office, but Andros Information has pamphlets and contact numbers for domatia. (228 20 41 575.)
• BUDGET TRAVEL OFFICES: Greek Sun Holidays (228 20 41 771) is the only travel agency in the town.
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: National Bank has a 24hr. ATM and offers currency exchange. (228 20 41 400 Open Tu-W 9am-1pm, F 9am-1pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Nameless offers Wi-Fi. (228 20 41 488 In the corner on the left side of the waterfront, before the road rounds to Taverna Stamatis. Open 24hr.)
• POST OFFICE: Mail letters and postcards at Voronoff’s at the top of the hill above the harbor. (228 20 41 650 Open M-F 9:30am-1:45pm.) For packages, go to Gavrio (228 20 71 254) or Andros Town (228 20 22 260).
Emergency!
• POLICE: Batsi’s police station was closed, so Gavrio’s police station (228 20 71 220) is the nearest one. You can also contact the Port Police. (228 20 71 213.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: The one pharmacy on the island is behind Dino’s bike rental shop, around the block on the street that leads to Hotel Kaparesy. (228 20 41 451 Open M-Sa 9am-1:30pm and 6:30-8:30pm.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: For medical emergencies, contact the Medical Center. (228 20 22 222; 228 20 22 333.) In Andros Town, to the left of the beach, behind a playground is a small medical office. (228 20 41 326 Doctor available daily 9am-1pm.)
Getting There
Batsi can be accessed by ferries from Mykonos ( 2hr., 3 per day.), Rafina ( 2hr., 3-4 per day.), and Tinos ( 2½hrs., 3 per day.), all of which dock in Gavrio. To reach Batsi from Gavrio, board one of the minibuses that waits at the port for each incoming ferry and runs from Gavrio to Andros Town, stopping in Batsi on the way. You can also take the bus which runs from Gavrio to Andros Town and stops in Batsi on the way, or take a taxi ( €20).
Getting Around
Navigating Batsi is tricky. Walking up and down the slope of the town is not a small feat for the less athletically-inclined. Though it is possible to spend time in the town and never leave the main waterfront, the excursions to sights and distant beaches are worthwhile. To make such treks, it is hugely advantageous to rent a motorbike or car. If these aren’t options, see if the bus or minibus will stop where you want to go; if not, there are always taxis, and some drivers will be willing to negotiate the meter price.
You can rent bikes at Dino’s Bikes (228 20 41 003 €16 per day.), on the right side of the waterfront.
naxos
22850
Step off the ferry in Naxos and immediately look left to see what remains of the temple to Apollo, a beautiful marble archway that serves as a reminder of the island’s past. Next, look right and you will see what the island has become: land cultivated for maximum tourist appeal. Luckily, even what has become of Naxos is wonderful in its own way. The beaches still rinse away the troubles, the food—particularly in the nearby town Halki—makes you want to stuff your face, and the nightlife is vivacious without the grimy feel of Mykonos. For a t
ravel experience with all the resources at your disposal, head to Naxos.
ORIENTATION
Naxos centers on the waterfront. When facing inland, the port is on the left side of the waterfront. The bus station is directly in front of the port, and the Temple of Apollo is beyond the port all the way to the left. To the right is what is best referred to as taverna row. Interspersed with the tavernas are bars, cafes, and some tourist shops. Nightlife stretches all the way to the right on the waterfront and one street back from taverna row. Kastro is the area deeper into town, which can be accessed by turning left at the top of the street behind OTE, the telephone office.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Naxos is a great place to sleep on budget. More expensive housing can be found along the waterfront, but the campgrounds are the best place to stay when on a budget.