Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 105
MARAGAS CAMPING
At Agia Anna beach
CAMPGROUND
228 50 42 552 www.maragascamping.gr
If you came to Naxos to go to the beach, Maragas Camping is the place to stay. The road between the campground and the beach across the street sees so much foot traffic from the water to the campground and back that sand has been dragged across the pavement. Kids walk around the site barefoot, and four-wheelers sit under their cover ready for rental. The place is not fancy—the towels in the bathroom come frayed—but all is clean and family-friendly.
From the port, take the bus headed to Agios Prokopios and get off at Maragas Camping 12km away. 30min. bus ride from town. Bus comes every 30min. Free Wi-Fi in the taverna. Motorbike and 4-wheeler rental. Safe box if requested. On-site supermarket. Doubles €20-45; studios and apartments €30-90. Reception 8am-10pm.
GLARONISSI 1
Past Maragas Camping along Agia Anna beach
HOTEL
228 50 41 201 www.glaronissi1.com
Somehow those who run Glaronissi 1 have coerced grass into growing from sand in front of their small establishment, which holds a few clean rooms decorated with shimmery blue bedspreads and metallic bunk-bed ladders. Located next door to Maragas Camping, Glaronissi 1 is just steps away from the mellow waves of the beach.
From the port, take the bus headed to Agios Prokopios and get off at Maragas Camping, which is about 12km from town. Glaronissi 1 is just past Maragas; look for the grass on the ground out front. Refrigerator, coffee stovetop, and silverware in every room. High-season doubles €75; quads €90. Low-season doubles €30; quads €40.
NAXOS CAMPING
Middle of Agios Georgios beach
CAMPGROUND
228 50 23 500 www.naxos-camping.gr
Naxos Camping’s biggest appeal is its proximity to town. Though still 2km from the port, the public bus runs by the campground’s entrance every 20min., and it’s easy to walk from town to the site by following Ag. Giorgios all the way to where the windsurfers gather in the wide cove. Unfortunately, the premises lack all creature comforts. The shower faucet is so high that bathing is like shampooing in the rain, some mattresses have cigarette holes, beds come without sheets, and, when we visited, the bathrooms did not stock toilet paper.
From the port, take the bus to Agios Prokopios and get off at Naxos Camping. By foot, walk along the main taverna row street by the waterfront, which leads to Agios Georgios beach. Walk along the beach past the main stretch of sand and around to the cove where windsurfers gather. At the back of that cove the highway is visible; cross the street and into the campground. It is 1.5km from town to the campground. Mini-mart, self-serve restaurant, pool, and refrigerators for communal use. €7 per person. Huts €2 extra.
SIGHTS
Kastro is the area of town set back behind the first streets you see when stepping off the ferry. The area has winding, twisting, and confusing streets that date back to when the Venetians settled Naxos. The area used to house around 400 people in giant mansions. Now, some of the structures remain, but the luster of the place—which throughout the century has enticed guests like the Kennedys and Rockefellers—has somewhat diminished.
PORTARA
RUINS
This archway, visible from basically anywhere along the waterfront, is a gem of a sight. Dedicated to Apollo, the remains now lay scattered around the archway from their original construction in the fifth century BCE. On the far right of the waterfront when looking out on the water, the Portara is at the end of the island and looks out at an incredible view of ocean, mountains, and sky.
On the far right of the waterfront when looking at the water. Up the steps. Free.
VENETIAN MUSEUM
MUSEUM
228 50 22 387
When as a boy the owner of the museum saw his neighborhood, the Kastro area, becoming commercialized and the old mansions being turned into shops and domatia, he decided he wanted to preserve his home in its original state. He opened his doors to the public, and now all can wander through the rooms where he grew up to see the French couches where he sat with his parents and entertained movie stars and politicians decades ago. Make sure to find the piano which Leonard Bernstein once played.
Pass the Byzantine Museum and walk under the archway. The Venetian Museum is under the arch. Nighttime concerts during the summer. €5, students and over 65 €3. Open daily in summer 10am-3pm and 7-10pm.
CATHOLIC CHURCH
At the top of the hill
CHURCH
228 50 22 725
A flood in 1915 destroyed the decorative tombstones of the ancient families of the Kastro area, but the tall white dome is still impressive inside. Behind the altar is supposedly one of the oldest examples of the Virgin Mary standing alone, without Jesus in her arms. Unless Catholic churches are your passion, this is just as well enjoyed in passing from outside as when stepping into the silent dome.
At the top of the hill by the Archaeology Museum in Kastro. To get there, turn from the main waterfront road aroud the corner of OTE; walk uphill along the street until it branches 3 ways at the top of the hill. A pharmacy will be on the corner. Turn onto the left most street and follow it until you reach another fork; bear left and follow the street as it winds. Pass Taverna Kastro on your right and continue following the main street as it winds up. Modest dress required. Free. Open daily 10am-7pm.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Beaches
Naxos is chock-full of beaches: if there are two things the island is not short on, it’s sand and sun. For the beach nearest to town, walk along the waterfront past OTE and the post-office playground to the far right of the port (when facing inland) to reach Agios Giorgios, where people play actively with paddle balls, toddlers splash in the shallow water, and European men rock swimsuits close to Speedos. Expect crowds and convenience. For a little more space on the sand, head to Agios Prokopios, Agioa Anna, and the nude beach Plaka just north of Maragas Camping. On this stretch of sand you will find gentle waves and a crew with fewer kids. All can be accessed by bus from Naxos Town. Check a map for more secluded beaches farther from town. Cabs are ready to take beachgoers nearly anywhere. For waterskiing, windsurfing, tubing, wakeboarding, and basically any watersport you can think of, head to Plaka beach for Plaka Watersports (694 46 33 194 www.plaka-watersports.com Cash only.
€15-40. Open daily 10am-7pm.), located right across the highway from the beach a few minutes walk from Maragas Camping.
FOOD
Beware of bland, touristy tavernas here; there are plenty of them. A key to identifying a more touristy establishment from a less touristy one is how prevalent English is in the menu. If dishes are listed in English second and the translation seems to have been made from a menu originally written in Greek, the restaurant is a go. If the menu is only or predominantly in English, steer clear.
BOSSA
On the waterfront
BAR, CAFE
The light fixtures here hang like giant, white dandelions about to blow away with a puff of wind from the sea. Many tables and chairs fill the extensive outdoor seating area, and even more chairs fill the modern, inside space as well. Popular with a crew of younger, more stylish foreigners, Bossa has both great views and great people-watching.
Follow the waterfront street to the end and turn right when you reach OTE. Walk toward the water past the cluster of cafes, and Bossa will be there on the left. Look for the light fixtures. At night it becomes a happening bar. Coffee €3.50. Beer €4. Cocktails €7. Open daily 9am-2am.
TAVERNA KASTRO
In Kastro
TAVERNA
228 50 22 005
A traditional eatery with dishes like rabbit stew (€9.50) and choriatiko, veal baked in a clay pot with cheese and vegetables (€12), this taverna is the place to go to experience the culinary culture of Kastro. The stone patio seating area awards diners here with views of the sea from the heights of the old, Venetian part of the city.
&
nbsp; Turn from the main waterfront road aroud the corner of OTE; walk uphill along the street until it branches 3 ways at the top of the hill. Turn onto the leftmost street and follow it until you reach another fork; bear left and follow the street as it winds. The taverna will be on your right. Salads €3.50-5. Entrees €7-15. Coffee €1.50-2.50. Beer €2.50. Open daily 6:30pm-1am.
MANOLIS’ GARDEN TAVERNA
End of Market St.
TAVERNA
228 50 25 168
This taverna is about as far from the main tourist stretch as you can get within Naxos, and its food is equally far from the competition. Try the fresh fish served with lemon to remember the best thing about being on an island.
Old street can be accessed from a sidestreet on the left in the main taverna row along the waterfront by turning left where you see the sign for the secondhand bookstore. Follow this street to the end, then follow sign to Manolis’ Garden and walk through the archway. Salads €3.50-6. Seafood €6.50-17. Open daily 6pm-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
Naxos’s nightlife centers on the outer edges of the waterfront. The dancing doesn’t get started in earnest until around 1:30am, but beers and cocktails are consumed by the dozens earlier in the evening. Nightlife here ranges from the casual guitar-jamming bar to the full-on club with a bouncer, so nearly any sort of fun can be had. If you don’t want to wait until 1:30am to start dancing, bring an iPod to the beach and have a silent rager. Who cares what the others think? You’re in Naxos!
JAM BAR
The street behind taverna row
BAR
698 85 08 024
The enterprising singer, guitarist, or drummer can find an audience here, where bands set in the corner play for the lively crowd. A British flag with the Rolling Stones’ mouth emblazoned in the center flies high above the wood tables and bartop, and Red Hot Chilli Peppers and soul music croon from the speakers. Beer is the most popular drink of the somewhat older clientele, but cocktails are served up as well at this music-lovers’ bar.
Take the 1st left after Krik Cafe when walking along taverna row away from the port. It is on the right opposite Waffle House. Beer €3-5. Cocktails €7. Open Apr-Oct daily 8pm-3am.
MOJO
On the waterfront
BAR 228 50 26766
The bartender here works magic, so watch him splash liquor and fruit juices into glasses. Just as there’s no doubt that Yo-Yo Ma was born to play the cello, this man was born to make cocktails. Perhaps this art is less valued, but show your appreciation by paying the steep price of a pomegranate martini, a Hollywoodlipstick-red concoction that he creates with real pomegranate juice and serves with fresh pomegranate seeds in a martini glass. You will not regret it, even if the price means you forego lunch tomorrow.
Follow the waterfront street to the end and turn right when you reach OTE. Walk toward the water past the cluster of cafes and turn left. Pass Bossa and you will see the sign for Mojo on the left. The outdoor seating is in high demand, so get there on the early side or ask to reserve a table. Beer €5. Cocktails from €7. Open in summer daily 7pm-5am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• BUDGET TRAVEL: Zas Travel provides ferry and airplane booking services and can answer questions about the island. Find the location two doors down from the tourist center and another 50m away from the port, both on the waterfront. (228 50 23 330 www.zastravel.com Open daily 8:30am-noon.)
• TELEPHONE: OTE offers phones and calling cards as well as help with broken phones. (228 50 23 333 Open M-F 8am-2pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Citron Cafe and Cocktail Bar provides free Wi-Fi and great beverages in a super hip, clean environment. (228 50 27 055 Open daily 8am-2am.)
• POST OFFICE: (228 50 22 211 Open M-F 7:30am-2pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 84300.
Emergency!
• POLICE: Police station is located on Amortou, the main road heading toward Ag. Giorgios beach from Pl. Prodikiou, 1km out of town. (228 50 22 100, 228 5023 039 Open 24hr.)
• PORT POLICE: 228 50 22 300
• PHARMACY: It’s located right before the OTE on the far right of the waterfront street when looking inland. (228 50 24 946 Open M-Tu 8:30am-2:30pm and 6-10pm, W 8:30am-2:30pm, Th-F 8:30am-2:30pm and 6-10pm, Sa 8:30am-2:30pm.)
• MEDICAL SERVICES: For health care questions, turn inland at the fork in the road past the OTE, at the right end of the waterfront when looking inland. It is 500m farther on the left. (228 50 23 333, 228 53 60 500 Helicopter to Athens available in emergencies. Open 24hr.)
Getting There
Getting to Naxos can be done by ferry or by plane. If planning to fly from Athens, book tickets far in advance. Ferry tickets are easier to come by last-minute.
By Plane
Flights leave from Naxos Airport (JNX). Olympic Airways (228 50 23 292) has a desk in Naxos Tours (228 50 22 095 www.naxostours.gr), on the left end of the waterfront. Air tickets also sold at Zas Travel (228 50 24 330 www.zastravel.com). Flights go to Athens ( €80) and come in from Athens ( €95). Book tickets months in advance; planes seat only 40 people and fill quickly.
By Ferry
All ferries from Naxos leave from Naxos Town. Two docks are at the left end of town, one for large ferries and the other for smaller ferries and daily cruises. For updated schedules and prices, consult travel agencies. To: Amorgos ( €14. 2-6hr., depending on stops; 2-5 per day.); Astypalea ( €23. 3hr., 1 per week.); Donousa ( €8.50. 1-4hr., 4 per week.); Ios ( €9.30. 1½hr., 6 per week F-Su.); Koufonisia ( €7.50. 3hr., 1-2 per day.); Paros ( €7.50. 1hr., 4 per day.); Santorini. ( €15.50. 2-6hr., 1-3 per day.)
By Boat
High-speed boats go to: los ( €20.50. 45min., 1 per week.); Mykonos ( €18.50. 45min., 1 per day.); and Santorini. ( €27.50. 30min., 1-2 per day.)
Getting Around
Getting around Naxos Town is best done on foot, and most of the streets other than the main waterfront one on the outside of the tavernas are pedestrian-only. Naxos’s streets are particularly windy and mostly unnamed, so working your way through town can be complicated. Don’t be shy about asking for directions from people in shops and on the street, particularly in Kastro. To reach distant beaches, buses or cabs are best. Buses head to Maragas Camping until 2:30am, so even those out late don’t need to spend the extra money on cabs unless it’s a really late night.
By Bus
Tickets for all buses (228 50 22 291 €1.40-5.50.) must be purchased before boarding the bus. Sometimes drivers will let you board and then purchase tickets at the next open station, but be prepared just in case. Current schedules are available at the station, located across from the largest dock and at tourist offices. Buses to Apollon ( 2 per day 9:30am-1:30pm.) and Filoti-Chalki-Sagri ( 6 per day 9:30am-3pm.) are often packed. Buses also run to: Ampram ( Tu and Th 2:30pm.); Apiranthos ( 5 per day 7:15am-3pm.); Apollon ( Tu and Th 2:30pm.) via the coast; Engares ( Tu and Th 2:30pm.); Glynado-Tripodes ( 4 per day 7:30am-3pm.); Kastraki ( 3 per day 7:30am-3pm.); Korono-Skado ( 2 per day 9:30am-1:30pm.); Melanes-Miloi ( 2 per day 12pm-3pm.); Mikri Vigla ( 3 per day 7:30am-3pm.); Pyrgaki Beach. ( 3 per day 7:30am-3pm.)
By Taxi
Taxis are located on the waterfront next to the bus depot. (228 50 22 444)
ios
22860
If you aren’t drunk when you arrive, you will be when you leave—sobriety is the antithesis of Ios’ ethos. The most bodacious, juiced-up, accented, and horny travelers find their way here, where boxed wine is passed around on the public bus and phone calls home include gems like: “We’re staying in a really beautiful place, but I don’t know how long we’re going to be there because we’ve vomited on everything.” And, “Anus? No it’s Ios.” The most intrepid game-spitters find themselves at Mylopotas beach by day and the town clubs by night. The literati can escape the broey bacchanalia by driving about 30min. to Homer’s burial site on the far side of the island, bearing down on the sea and mountains which he immortalized in his epics. Be
aches galore dot the coastline and range from the silent cove-type to the girls-seeking-ass-while-drunk type, so know where you are headed before you board the bus.
ORIENTATION
Ios is a sizable island with beaches spread along its coast, but the two main hubs of activity are the town and Mylopotas Beach. The main road from the port passes through town on its way to Mylopotas. Ios Town and Mylopotas Beach are under 10min. apart by bus and about 25min. apart by foot. To get to Mylopotas Beach from town, follow the main road to the right when looking at the big blue-roofed church in town. Town itself is set up like a piece of terraced land; streets run parallel to each other along its slope. The main nightlife stretch—most easily found by following the music and crowds at 1:30am—is three terraces in the depths of town. To get to the first terrace, walk toward the church through the big parking lot in front, and bear right.
ACCOMMODATIONS