Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide

by Harvard Student Agencies, Inc. ,

  SIGHTS

  MUSEUM OF PREHISTORIC THYRA

  Fira

  MUSEUM

  228 602 3217

  “A masterpiece by an avant-garde painter” which combines “restraint in color and drawing with freedom of composition, intense movement, varied poses, and a registering of the momentary.” No, that’s not a description of a modern painting—it’s the Bronze Age wall painting of monkeys that was recovered from the ruins of Akrotiri. This Minoan village was completely blanketed by lava after a volcano eruption in the 17th century BCE and wasn’t excavated until 1967. The museum exhibits many objects that were found during the excavations, offering an insight into the lives of people living here during the Minoan civilization (apparently, they had a “consumer society” back then). Among the most interesting exhibits here are a gold ibex figurine which was discovered hidden inside of a wooden box in 1999 and the miniature 3-D model of what the city looked like before the eruption. There are a few samples of Minoan jewelry as well—it is thought that since so little of it was found, people must have anticipated the eruption and collected their valuables before leaving the city.

  From the plateia, walk toward the bus station; the museum’s entrance will be to your right. €3, students free. Open in summer M 1:30-8pm, Tu-Su 8am-8pm; in winter M 1:30-3pm, Tu-Su 8am-3pm.

  PYRGOS AND ANCIENT THIRA

  Pyrgos, Kamari, Perissa

  HIKING

  If you’re a mountain goat in your heart of hearts, we know just the hike for you (and maybe the psychiatrist as well). Start in Pyrgos, a beautiful little town that used to be the capital of the island and is the site of a Venetian fortress. Wander through its labyrinthine, sloping streets and discover tiny blue-domed churches (there are over 30 of these). If you continue up past Franco’s Cafe and the large church, you’ll discover a small set of steps that leads to a rooftop offering a panoramic view of the island. From Pyrgos, it’s a 45min. walk up to Profitis Ilias Monastery (31812). The monastery was built in 1711, and for some reason, it now shares its site with a military radar station. The old monastery is open only for formal liturgies (usually between 6:00-6:30am, modest clothes required), but there’s a smaller, newer church which is easier to visit. The unmarked entrance can be found by walking to the left of the final path, and you might be greeted by a friendly, multilingual monk who will answer your questions (10am-1pm, free). From here, it’s a 1hr. hike over slippery gravel and craggy rocks which demand good footwear to the ruins of Ancient Thira ( Open Tu-Su, 8:30am-2:30pm €3, students free). Be on a lookout for stacks of rocks, red spots, and views of the path ahead to navigate the poorly marked first part of the trail. At Ancient Thira, you’ll see the ruins of an ancient theater, a church, various baths, and even a forum, most of which date back to the Hellenic period. Look out for carved dolphins and ruined columns, and don’t forget to take in the magnificent view.

  To get to Pyrgos, take a local bus going to Perissa or any bus that goes to Vlichada. If you want to reach the ruins of Ancient Thira directly, you can hike from Kamari or Perissa—the former has a paved road leading up the hill, while the latter has only a footpath. Hikes from both places should take about 1hr.

  VOLCANO, THIRASIA, AND HOT SPRINGS

  Santorini, Caldera Rim

  ISLANDS

  If you feel a burning desire to experience the volcano and other parts of Santorini’s caldera rim first-hand, you should take one of the many tours. Excursions typically go to the volcano first, where guides lead hikes up the black rocks to the active crater. After a 30min. up-close look at lava, the tours move on to the waters around Palea Kameni or Nea Kameni, where you can jump off the boat and swim to the (rather lukewarm) sulfur hot springs. Some excursions continue on to the small island of Thirasia, where tourists get a few hours to wander up to explore the towns above the port. The sleepy villages of Manolas and Potamos offer some decent views of Santorini’s western coast and have quite an authentic feel. The most complete tour packages also include a sunset dinner at Oia.

  Tours start at around €13 (just the volcano) and go up to €35 and higher. Ask around at multiple agencies to find the right tour.

  AKROTIRI RUINS

  Akrotiri

  RUINS

  The famous fate of Pompeii is just an imitation of an earlier disaster—in the 17th century BCE, a volcanic eruption destroyed Santorini and covered the maritime Minoan city of Akrotiri with lava. As a result, Akrotiri was preserved in time better than almost any other Minoan site. Only around three to five percent of the entire city has been excavated so far, but what’s been found has been enough to show the sophistication of this Bronze Age culture. Akrotiri had multi-story houses and extensive sanitation, drainage, and sewage systems. Each house had at least one room decorated with wall paintings (which are now exhibited in Athens and Fira). No skeletons were found in the ruins, one more piece of evidence suggesting that the inhabitants escaped before the eruption. The site has been closed for a while now due to reconstruction and “technical reasons” involving a lawsuit, but ask around whether it’s open when you come to Santorini. A (non-) visit to the ruins can be conveniently combined with a visit to the Red Beach, which is a 15min. walk away.

  Take a bus from Fira to Akrotiri. The ruins are a 15min. walk from the village of Akrotiri, down the main road that continues toward the Red Beach. Temporarily closed.

  BEACHES

  The best-known beach on Santorini is Red Beach, a small strip of pebbles and black sand under towering red-brick cliffs. You’ll have to climb a small ridge to get here, but the beach, overflowing with umbrellas and beach chairs, is worth the 15min. walk from the Akrotiri ruins bus stop or the 30min. walk from Akrotiri village.

  The island’s most popular beach is Kamari, a large expanse of fine black sand with hordes of sunbathers, but locals love the festive beach towns of Perissa and Perivolos, which lie on a 9km stretch of black sand just south from the Ancient Thira mountain. In fact, beaches in Kamari and Perissa were awarded a Blue Flag for their beauty. While beach chair and umbrella rentals can be expensive (from €7), some restaurants in Perissa will let you stay on their beach beds without charge if you buy a drink.

  To get away from the crowds, try Vlihada, a pleasant, medium-sized beach near some impressive white cliffs. There are only a few buses per day to Vlihada from Fira, so either come with your own transport, or carefully check the bus schedule before your trip. When you’re in Oia, don’t miss the Ammoudi Beach, a small, rocky affair that’s more of a dock than anything else. The cheap, infrequent boats for Thirasia leave from here as well. The closest beach to Fira is Monolithos, with thin, yellow sand and shallow water. All of these harder-to-find beaches can be reached by bus from Fira (€1.40-2), but some of the best and most peaceful beaches on the island are only accessible by car.

  FOOD

  CAFE NRG

  Ethnikis Stavrou, Fira

  CREPES

  24997

  NRG (read: energy) has got some of the biggest and best crepes around. The menu items are more like suggestions than anything binding, so feel free to build your own monster crepe from the listed ingredients. Our suggestion: go for the simple but unbeatable combination of Nutella, chopped bananas, and Chantilly cream (€4.50). NRG has long opening hours, so it’s a good place for late-night takeout.

  Located on the bar street, right next to the Koo Club. From Pelican Tours on the plateia’s corner, walk uphill, take the 1st right, and walk until you see it on your left. Crepes €3.20-6.60. Open daily 9:30am-4am.

  POLSKI LOKAL

  Oia

  POLISH, GREEK

  228 607 2083

  This is the go-to place in Oia if you’re a budget-conscious traveler (assuming that a budget-conscious traveler goes to Oia at all). Run by good-natured Polish immigrants and seasonal migrants, it offers some traditional Polish dishes (goulash, pirogi, bigos) paired with a Zywiec beer. If you’re not feeling like Polish food, go for their gyros, which harbor a delectable special sauc
e.

  From the plateia, walk down the main street in the direction of Ammoudi until you reach public toilets. Turn left, walk under the archway, and head downhill. Pass the parking lot and continue until you see the restaurant to your left. Free Wi-Fi. Pitas €2.50-2.70. Greek dishes €7.50-9.50. Polish dishes €6.50-9. Beer €2.80-4.50. Open M-Sa 1-11pm, Su 5-11pm.

  DOLPHINS FISH TAVERN

  Akrotiri

  FISH

  228 608 1151

  Customers can sit on one of the two piers that extend onto the sea and eat amongst dolphins—hence the name. If you’re feeling audacious, try the fresh swordfish—just remember that each fish is sold by the kilogram and can get outrageously expensive if you aren’t paying attention. What you don’t finish should be thrown to Paki, the restaurant’s small but fierce-looking dog.

  The restaurant is a 10min. walk from the Akrotiri ruins bus stop in the direction of the Red Beach. Seafood €6.50-13. Fish dishes with salad and potatoes €20-22 per person. Open daily 11am-midnight.

  NIGHTLIFE

  There’s a reason Ethnikis Stavrou in Fira is also known as simply the “bar street.” You’re not likely to find nightlife anywhere else.

  KOO CLUB

  Ethnikis Stavrou, Fira

  CLUB

  228 602 2025 www.kooclub.gr

  There’s both an indoor bar and a luxurious, open-air garden, which together provide plenty of space for both talking and dancing. Head to the crowded dance floor for some loud music and flashing lights, just make sure to keep your sandals in your room—the bouncers are quite serious about the dress code.

  On the bar street next to NRG Cafe. No beachwear. Cover €10; includes 1 drink. Beer from €6. Cocktails €10. Open daily 11pm-6am.

  MURPHY’S

  Ethnikis Stavrou, Fira

  IRISH BAR

  228 602 2248 www.murphys-bar.eu

  Supposedly the first Irish bar in Greece, Murphy’s is a reliable spot to do some social mingling. The traditional bar decoration is rather invisible in the nighttime hours, but you won’t care much. There are a few very similar competitors on and around bar street like Highlander and 2 Brothers, so pick based on your aesthetic preferences.

  It’s on the bar street next to Enigma. Cover charge F-Sa €10; includes 1 drink and 1 shot. Beer from €5. Cocktails €9. Open daily noon-6am. Happy hour 9:30-10:30pm.

  ESSENTIALS

  Practicalities

  • TOURIST OFFICE: Tourist Information Booth provides maps and general information. (Fira, in the plateia 228 602 5940 Open 8am-10pm.)

  • TOURS: Pelican Tours sells ferry tickets and organizes boat trips to the volcano, hot springs, and Thirasia. Assists with airline tickets, helicopter or plane chartering, and currency exchange. (Fira, in the plateia. 228 602 2220 www.pelican.gr Open daily 8am-11pm.) In Oia, similar services are provided by Ecorama Holidays. (At the bus station 2286071508 Free internet for customers. Open 8am-10pm.)

  • CURRENCY EXCHANGE: National Bank exchanges currency, traveler cheques, and has a 24hr.ATM (Fira, near the plateia. 228 602 3318 www.nbg.gr. Open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm.) In Oia, there’s a 24hr. ATM on the main road, near the plateia.

  • LAUNDROMAT: AD Laundry Station in Fira does washing, drying, and folding. (Below the plateia. 228 602 3533 €10 per basket. Open M-Sa 9am-2pm and 5-8pm.)

  • INTERNET ACCESS: PC World. (Fira, in the plateia. 228 60 5551 Internet €2.50 per hr., Wi-Fi €4 per hr. Open M-Sa 10am-10pm, Su 11am-7pm.)

  • POST OFFICE: Post Office (Fira, main road 228 602 2238 Open M-F 7:30am-2pm.)

  • POSTAL CODE: 84700.

  Emergency!

  • EMERGENCY NUMBERS: Medical Emergency: 166. Local Medical Emergency: 228 636 0300. Police: 100. Local Police: 228 602 2649. Port Police: 228 602 2239.

  • POLICE: The local police station is in the nearby village of Karterados. It can be reached at 228 602 2659 or 228 602 2649.

  • LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: (Fira, plateia 228 602 3444 Open 8am-11pm.)

  • MEDICAL SERVICES: Santorini Hospital in Fira provides 24hr. emergency care. (228 632 2863 Note that the phone code for the hospital is “22863” and not “22860” like the rest of the island. Open 24hr.)

  Getting There

  By Air

  Flights ( From €80. 1hr., 8 per day.) between Athens and Santorini National Airport (JTR) (228 602 8405) are operated by Olympic Airways (228 602 8400), Aegean Airlines (228 602 8500), and Athens Airways (228 603 2020). There are also flights from Thessaloniki. ( From €120. 1hr., 1-2 per day.) From the airport there are public buses to Fira ( €1.40.), but hotels and pensions often provide free transport.

  By Ferry

  Ferries ( €8-34) and Flying Dolphins ( €16-56.) connect Santorini with Piraeus and other islands—the latter are much faster and about twice as expensive. Note that ferry schedules often list Santorini as Thira. Ferries travel to: Ios ( 30min.-1½hr., 3-5 per day.); Mykonos ( 3hr., 2 per day.); Milos ( 1½-3hr., 1-3 per day.); Naxos. ( 1½-2½hr., 3-4 per day.) To check current schedules, ask at Pelican Tours or any other travel agency. If you’re arriving by ferry, you’ll be dropped off at one of the three ports (Fira, Oia, Athinios), but most likely at Athinios (even if your ticket says Thira). There are public buses from here to Fira ( €2. 20min.) meeting the ferries, but hotels often provide free transport from here as well. To get to and from Fira’s port, either walk down the 588-step footpath, take the cable car (228 602 2977 €4, children and luggage €2. Every 20min. 6:30am-10:40pm), or hire a donkey ( €5) at the red donkey station.

  Getting Around

  By Bus

  Local buses (25404 www.ktel-santorini.gr) connect most towns on Santorini. From the Fira bus station, buses head to: Akrotiri ( 30min., 10 per day. €1.70.); Athinios ( €2. 25min., 4 per day.); Kamari ( €1.40. 20min., every 30min. 7:30am-12am.); Monolithos ( €1.40. 30min., 8 per day.); Oia ( €1.40. 30min., every 30min. 6:50am-11pm.) via the airport; Perissa ( €2. 30min., every 30min. 7:10am-12am.); Vlihada ( 5 per day €1.40.). Transferring in small towns isn’t very convenient, as the waiting times can be quite long. You can get a taxi at Fira’s taxi park (228 602 2555 24hr.), just above the bus station.

  By Moped and ATV

  Many moped and ATV rental agencies can be found in the streets around Fira’s plateia. In mid-season, expect to pay around €10-20 per day for a moped and €15-25 for an ATV, with higher prices in August. Most car rental companies are open between 8am and 8pm, and you’ll need a driver’s license. Ask around for the best price, and make sure they give you a helmet.

  milos

  22870

  Milos is pretty much the opposite of a party island—it’s slow-paced and not excessively popular with foreign tourists. Instead, explore volcanic beaches amidst colorful cliffs to sea caves and strange rock formations. You can go lie down on the moon-like beach of Sarakiniko, or take a boat cruise to the pirate hideouts of Kleftiko. Even if you abandon the dramatic shoreline and head inland, you can find the remnants of early Christian catacombs, a smattering of tiny museums, and a ton of Orthodox churches. The island’s hilltop capital, Plaka, offers some great views of the island’s entirety, while the port of Adamos is where you’ll find some semblance of nightlife (there were around five bars last time we counted). There are no hostels on the island, but there are plenty of domatia and some reasonably cheap hotels to accommodate the budget traveler. Even though the island isn’t exactly a whirlwind of activity, the tourist infrastructure is very developed—Milos maintains several websites that give a good overview of the main attractions and direct you to many interesting places.

  ORIENTATION

  The best place to stay in Milos is probably Adamos, the port city with a lot of tourist-oriented infrastructure. Most activity is concentrated along the waterfront, where you’ll find many restaurants and tourist agencies. The bus stop is opposite the ATE Bank, where the Plaka-bound main road adjoins the waterfront. Plenty of cheap domatias can be found in the labyrinthine streets directly behin
d the waterfront. The island’s capital is Plaka, a hilltop city some 6km north of Adamos. Its upper part is a maze of narrow streets with many cafes that offers many unexpected scenic views, while down the hill you’ll find the Archeological Museum, the hospital, and the road that will lead you to Trypiti’s catacombs. While you’re in Plaka, don’t forget to climb the hill to Panagia Thalassitra Monastery, where you can see the entire island.

  ACCOMMODATIONS

  HOTEL SEMIRAMIS

  Adamas

  HOTEL

  228 702 2117 www.semiramishotel-milos.com

  This place may be one of the cheapest hotels on the island, but you wouldn’t be able to guess that from the cozy, clean, and spacious rooms. The genuine owner will be happy to give you local advice on what to see on the island, while the leafy backyard is an excellent place to wait through the midday sun. For the most frugal of travelers, there are two rooms that share a bathroom and go for an even lower price.