Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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From ATE Bank, walk down the main road for 30m; on the left you’ll see a sign pointing you to the hotel. Airport transportation available. High-season doubles €55-65; low-season €28. Triples 20% extra. Reception 9am-4pm and 7:30-9pm.
ELENI HOTEL
Adamas
HOTEL
228 702 1972 www.hoteleleni.com
A bit of a walk away from the hustle and bustle of the waterfront, this 15-room hotel is among the cheaper options, offering competent rooms with A/C and balconies and a very personable owner.
From the dock, continue down the waterfront away from the restaurants and tourist agencies. After you reach the Lagada beach, walk 50m inland, take a left turn, and walk until you see the hotel to your right. Doubles €30-70. Reception 8am-midnight.
SANTORINI CAMPING
Achivadolimni
CAMPGROUND
228 703 1410 www.miloscamping.gr
If you don’t have your own transportation, staying here can be a bit inconvenient (it’s some 6km away from Adamas, and buses run infrequently), but there are many advantages. The campground is just a few minutes away from Hivadolimni, the island’s most popular beach, and there’s a swimming pool and open-air cafeteria, both on a steep cliff overlooking the beach. You’ll also be able to use the communal kitchen, mini-mart, and cheap laundry service (€5).
Take the bus from Adamas. Free airport and port transportation. 2-person bungalows €30-98; 3-person bungalows €60-116; 4-person bungalows €70-131. Reception 8am-12am.
SIGHTS
CATACOMBS AND ROMAN THEATER
Trypiti
RUINS
228 702 1625
Among the first Christian places of worship in the world, the catacombs at Milos were used for secret religious ceremonies and burying the dead in the days when Christians had to worship in secrecy to avoid persecution. A Christian community was on the island as early as the first century, and it grew considerably in the following centuries. Carved in soft volcanic rock, the catacombs were pillaged in the 19th century, and not much remains to see today. Still, the place remains strangely fascinating. Vaults in the sides contain graves which accommodated anywhere from one to seven bodies, and it’s estimated that thousands of people were buried here. Only one of the three galleries can be accessed today, and that only on a guided tour. The guides don’t speak much English, so don’t expect thorough explanations. Notice the primitive inscriptions on the walls—no, these weren’t made by early Christians; it’s vandalism from a few years back when the catacombs didn’t have a night guard. The ancient Roman theater is a few minutes on foot away from the catacombs. It is quite well preserved and used to host musical performances. If you continue further up the hill, you’ll come across the site where Venus de Milo was found, and further up is a small hill topped by a tiny chapel—the view from here is worth the climb.
Trypiti is 1km away from the lower bus stop in Plaka. To get to the catacombs, follow the downhill road that adjoins the square above the lower bus stop. Pass the Ancient Theater sign but stay on the road, and the catacombs will be further down at the end of the winding road. To get to the theater, backtrack from the catacombs and turn left (just before the flight of steps) onto a path that will lead you there. Guided tours of catacombs every 20min. Catacombs €2, reduced ticket €1, EU students free. Open Tu-Sa 8:30am-6:30pm, Su 8:30am-3pm.
KIMOLOS
Kimolos Island, north of Milos
ISLAND
Kimolos is an island stuck in time—some say the precise date is 1955, but decide for yourself. When you arrive by ferry at the port of Psathi, you might be awaited by the island’s single bus (6973 700 033 €1.50), and bus driver, who’s allegedly the only person on Kimolos who speaks some English. The bus will take you to Chorio, the island’s capital, where you can find a number of small museums—the Folk and Maritime Museum (228 705 1118, €1) run by a friendly doctor, the Archaeological Museum where you can walk on a glass floor over tombs from the Archaic period, and a volunteer office dedicated to the monk seal (Monachus monachus), which is one of the most endangered mammals in the world and which lives on this island. Don’t forget to wander around Chorio’s kastro, the town’s castle center. The opening times of these sights vary, but if you come outside of the visiting hours, you can always try banging on the door to win a personalized visit. If you have your own transport, you can go see Skiadi, an enormous mushroom-like rock structure in the northwest of the island—it can be reached by driving down a road from Chorio and then walking for some additional 30min. on an arrow-marked path. If you don’t have a car, you can call the island’s sole taxi (228 705 1552). Finally, south of Kimolos is the uninhabited island of Polyaigos (fittingly, the name means “many goats”) which has some interesting volcanic caves. Delphini Sea Taxi (228 705 1437) organizes boat trips to this island from Psathi (these generally leave at 9am and cost €25). Since Kimolos is a small, untouristy island, things do not always run on fixed schedules—before going there, always get advice from local sources.
To get to Kimolos, drive or take a bus from Adamas to Pollonia, and then take one of the ferries to Kimolos (there are 2 per day in winter, 4 per day in fall and spring, 5-6 per day in July and August. Check the current schedules at a travel agency. The ferry can carry road vehicles as well. Tickets cost €2). There are ferries from Adamas as well, but these are more expensive and run only about once a week.
KLEFTIKO AND GLARONISSIA
Milos shores
ROCK FORMATIONS
Some of the best-known structures on Milos can’t be accessed without a boat. One of these is Kleftiko, an impressive rock formation on the southwest shore of the island. It is said that the Ottoman pirate Barbarossa used to hide his boats in the marine caves of Kleftiko to avoid his pursuers. If you’re lucky, you might glimpse an old cannon still lying on the seafloor. Glaronissia islands are home to 20m basalt blocks protruding out of the water. Composed of small crystals, they are shaped like hexagons and are often compared to organ pipes. To get to either of these rock formations, you’ll have to join in on one of the many cruises organized around the Milos shoreline (€20-60), take part in a kayaking excursion, or do some rather audacious long-distance swimming.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
MILOS KAYAKING
Triovasalos
KAYAKING
228 702 3597 www.seakayakgreece.com
If you feel like having a firsthand experience of the caves, arches, and cliffs that line the uneven shoreline of Milos, you’ll be interested in some of the five different beginner-friendly kayak routes offered by Milos Kayaking. Among the major draws are the daytrips to Kleftiko and Glaronisia, but Klima, Gerakas, and the sulfur mines are interesting as well. The price includes a picnic lunch, snorkeling equipment, and transport to and from the paddle site.
For information about trips and bookings, go to a travel agency in Adamas or contact the company directly. Availability of trips depends on weather. €65 per person. Trips are usually 10am-5pm and involve 3hr. (7½-10 mi.) of paddling.
MILOS DIVING CENTER
Pollonia
DIVING
228 702 8077 www.milosdiving.gr
For fans of sea anemones and shipwrecks from WWII, the Pollonia-based Milos Diving Center organizes diving trips and awards diving certificates (CMAS, PADI, IAHD). Southwest Aegean Milos Sea Club (6977 288 847) based in Adamas offers diving trips as well.
For information about trips and bookings, go to a travel agency in Adamas or contact the companies directly. Self-equipped dive €35; dive with equipment provided €50; 10 dives €400.
FOOD
ARTEMIS
Adamas
BAKERY
228 702 2998
Artemis has an unbelievable selection of freshly baked croissants, cookies, breads, and pies, all very suitable for a fast breakfast or a picnic at a secluded beach. Try the big slice of watermelon pie (€2), or supply yourself with the traditional Milos dessert, koufeto, made of pumpkin, h
oney, and almonds (€3-8). Pizza, cheese buns, and other savory baked goods are also available.
The bakery is on the fork opposite ATE Bank and the bus stop. Bread €1 per kg. Croissants €2. Cookies €9 per kg. Open daily 5am-midnight.
FORAS
Plaka
TAVERNA
228 702 3954
This traditional taverna in Plaka serves cheap, fresh food in generous portions. In fact, if you ask the boss Nikolas about which menu items are good, he’ll pat his well-nourished belly and tell you that everything is good. Try their tasty rabbit with bread and onions (€8) or the swordfish (€8)—the more exotic meals come at good prices. Foras also serves white wine produced in Milos, so order half a carafe (€2.50) and get your drink on.
From the upper bus stop in Plaka, head downhill on the main road; it will be on your right. Salads €2.50-5.50. Entrees €4.50-8. Beer €2.20-2.50. Open daily 8am-1am.
PITSOUNAKIA
Adamas
GRILL
228 702 1739
Less expensive than most restaurants down on the waterfront, Pitsounakia is especially good for a quick gyro or souvlaki. Coming later in the day seems to be more common than coming here for lunch. If you want a proper meal, go linger in the asphalt garden in the back of the restaurant. The gyros line gets quite long sometimes, so if you’re running for a ferry or something, you may have to hit up somewhere with a higher price but shorter line.
Pitsounakia is some 20m from ATE bank down the main road, on the left. Souvlaki €1.80. Entrees €5.50-7. Beer €2.50. Open daily 1pm-1am.
NIGHTLIFE
AKRI
Adamas
BAR
228 702 2604
Akri (“edge”) has a more laid-back feel and a nicer view than its neighbors down the hill. The sprawling terraces have many tables and stools from which you can observe the green-lit waters of Adamos harbor. The two levels of slick interiors are suitable for dancing, but Akri is also a good place to come for an evening coffee. This is not a place for you if you hoped to listen to Greek music, but they play just about everything else.
Continue up the hill beyond Vipera Lebetina and Aragosta cafe, Akri will be to your left. Coffee €2-3.5. Small beer €5-6. Cocktails €8-9. Open daily 8pm-4am.
ARAGOSTA
Adamas
BAR
22292 www.aragosta.gr
One of the few nightlife establishments in Adamas, Aragosta gets very lively at night. The laid-back, white-and-red terrace overlooks the pedestrian zone of the waterfront, so this is the place to go if you want to be seen partying it up. A few meters up the hill, Aragosta has a small open-air cafe that has an excellent view of the harbor that serves as a refuge from the loud music inside the bar.
Climb up the stairs near Milos Travel, it’s the bar on the right. Small beer €5-5.50. Cocktails €10. Desserts €5-7. Open daily 7pm-5:30am. Cafe open daily 9am-2pm and 7pm-3am.
VIPERA LEBETINA
Adamas
BAR
This bar is named after the island’s famous venomous snake, but let’s hope none of that stuff made its way into their drinks. With a dock-facing terrace outside and a small dance floor inside, Vipera is one of the more compact bars here, but that doesn’t make its charisma any smaller at night when rock music is playing at full volume.
Find it a few meters above Aragosta. Shots €3. Beer €5-6. Cocktails €9. Open daily 9pm-5:30am
BEACHES
Beaches in Milos are a cut above any other beach—they are natural works of art. After years of volcanic eruptions, mineral deposits, and aquatic erosion, the shoreline of Milos is a wonderland of multicolored sand, steep cliffs, and fascinating caves and arches. One of the most remarkable beaches is Sarakiniko, a shallow pool of water in the middle of white volcanic moonscape. Papafragas, close to the ruins of Fylakopi, is a long, water-filled canyon ending in a small sandy beach. Hivadolimni is the longest beach on the island, named after the small saltwater lake behind it, while Paliochori is known for its colorful cliffs and turquoise water. Out of the 60-something beaches on Milos, around 30 are accessible only by car, while the best-known ones have infrequent bus connections running from Adamas. Boats will take you to beaches that are hard to access by road, including the sea cavern of Sykia. For more information about individual beaches, ask for a brochure at the tourist office.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourist Information provides maps, brochures, ferry and bus timetables, and has a complete list of the island’s hotels. (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 2445 www.milos.gr Open M 8:30am-midnight, Tu-Sa 8:30am-11pm.)
• TOURIST AGENCIES: Brau Kat Travel has very helpful staff and sells ferry tickets, rents cars, and arranges tours. (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 3000 www.milosisland.gr Open daily 8:30am-1am.) Sophia Travels provides similar services. (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 1994 www.milosferries.gr Open daily 8:30am-1am.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: National Bank provides currency exchange. (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 2332 Open M-Th 8:30am-2pm, F 8:30am-1:30pm.)
• ATM: ATE Bank (228 702 2330, near the bus stop)
• LAUNDROMAT: Smart and Fast Clean (Adamas, main road 228 702 3271 €8 for 5-6kg of laundry. Open M-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 11am-10pm.)
• INTERNET: The municipality of Adamas has a free Wi-Fi hotspot on the waterfront. Internet Info. (Adamas, main road €3 per hr., €0.50 per 5min. Open daily 9am-3pm and 4pm-12:30am.)
• POST OFFICE: Hellenic Post provides Poste Restante and express mail services. (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 2345 Open M-F 9am-1pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 84800.
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 166. Local Emergency: 228 702 2700. Police: 100. Local Port Police: 228 702 3360. Local Tourist Police: 228 702 1378.
• POLICE: Police Station. (Plaka, main road 228 702 1378 Open 24hr.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Pharmacy (Adamas, main road 228 702 2178 Open daily 8:30am-3pm and 6pm-midnight.)
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Health Center in Plaka provides 24hr. emergency care. (Plaka, lower square 228 702 2700 Open 24hr.)
Getting There
By Plane
About twice a day there are government-subsidized flights between Athens and Milos Airport (MLO) (228 702 2381) operated by Olympic Airways (Adamas, waterfront 228 702 2380). Flights are cheap ( €45-50) and get sold out easily, so book in advance. There is no public transportation from the airport, so you’ll have to take a taxi or arrange it with your hotel.
By Ferry
Ferry and fast ferry schedules change very often (three or four times just in June), but at the time of writing, the following connections were available: Piraeus (4-7 per day, 2½-7hr.), Amorgos, Anafi, Folegandros, Heraklion, Ios, Karpathos, Kimolos, Kithnos, Koufonisi, Mykonos, Naxos, Rhodos, Santorini, Serifos, Sifnos, Sikinos, Sitia, and Syros. Check the current schedules at any travel agency. Ferries travel to and from Adamas.
Getting Around
By Bus
Local transportation is provided by buses ( €1.50-1.70) which run from Adamas to different parts of the island. Among the destinations are Plaka (via Triovassalos and Tripiti Every hr. 7:30am-12:30am.), Pollonia (via Pahena and Filakopi 9 per day 6:45am-10:15pm.), Paleochori (via Zefiria 7 per day 10:30am-7:15pm.), Achivadolimni and Provata ( 8 per day 10:15am-6:20pm.), Milos Camping ( 11 per day 8am-11:15pm.), and Sarakiniko. ( 11am, 1pm, 3pm.)
By Taxi
Taxis line up by the waterfront in Adamas (228 702 2219 for Adamas; 228 702 1306 for Triovassalos). Check the taxi price list at the tourist office. The best way to explore the island is with your own transport, since many beaches aren’t accessible by bus.
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for citizens of all countries. Must be valid for 90 days after the period of intended stay.
• VISA: Not required for citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the UK, and the US.
• WORK
PERMIT: Required for all foreigners planning to work in Greece.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Greece is 2hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that it is 7hr. ahead of New York City, 10hr. ahead Los Angeles, 2hr. ahead of the British Isles, 7hr. behind Sydney, and 9hr. behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
In Greece, law requires that restaurant and cafe prices include a 13% gratuity. Additional tipping is unnecessary, unless you are particularly pleased with the service, in which case leave 5%.