Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 115
By Budapest Public Transit
The subways and trams run every few minutes. Buses are generally on time and some run 24hr.; schedules are posted at stops. Budapest Public Transport (BKV; 3680 40 66 86 www.bkv.hu) has information in Hungarian and an English website. Single-fare tickets for public transport (one-way on 1 line 320Ft) are sold in Metro stations, Trafik shops, and by sidewalk vendors at tram stops. Punch them in the orange boxes at the gate of the Metro or on buses and trams; punch a new ticket when you change lines, or face a fine of 6000Ft from the undercover ticket inspectors. ( Day pass 1550Ft, 3-day 3850Ft, 1-week 4600Ft, 2-week 6200Ft, 1-month 9400Ft.)
The Metro has three lines: M1 (yellow), M2 (red), and M3 (blue). M1 runs west to east from downtown Pest past City Park along Andrássy út. M2 runs west to east and connects Deli Train Station in Buda with Keleti Train Station in Pest along Rákóczi út. M3 runs north to south through Pest and provides a transfer bus to the airport from the southern terminus (Kőbánya-Kispest). A fourth Metro line is currently under construction that will connect southern Buda to northeastern Pest, though it is not expected to open until 2012. The Metro runs 4:30am-11:30pm.
Most buses and trams stop running at 11pm. After you’ve missed the last tram, transportation is available in the form of night (É) buses which run midnight-5am along major routes: #7É and 78É follow the 2 route; #6É follows the #4/6 tram line; #14É and 50É follow the #3 route.
szentendre
06
This tiny town of 20,000 is home to many Budapest businessmen and their families seeking refuge from the commotion of the big city. Its cobblestone streets and tiny little nooks under lush greenery give it something of a romantic character. A small trek up to the top of Church Hill will give you the perfect pictures to send home, and the tiny art galleries and museums are great for any troubled genius.
ORIENTATION
Boats (484 40 00) leave from the pier below Vigadó tér ( 2000Ft. 1½hr., 2 per day.). The train and bus stations are 10min. from Fő tér; descend the stairs past the HÉV tracks and through the underpass up Kossuth utca. At the fork, bear right on Dumtsa Jenő utca. From the ferry station, turn left on Czóbel sétány and left on Dunakorzó utca.
SIGHTS
CHURCH HILL (TEMPLOMDOMB)
VIEW
The best place to capture panorama photos of old houses, tons of church spires and a majestic Danube below.
Walk up the hill from the Town Hall.
HUNGARIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Sztaravodai út
MUSEUM 0626 502 500
This museum is a 3km preservation of traditional Hungarian country towns and villages from the end of the 18th century to the beginning of the 20th. Traditional feasts, everyday tasks, and craft-making are also represented to teach foreigners about Hungarian pastoral life.
600Ft, students 400Ft, family 1600Ft. Open daily 9am-4pm.
SZAMOS MARZIPAN MUSEUM AND CONFECTIONERY
Dumtsa Jenő utca 12
MUSEUM
0626 412 626 www.szamosmarcipan.hu
Have you ever seen a life-sized replica of the Hungarian crown jewels, scenes from the Wizard of Oz, and a 160cm long replica of the Hungarian parliament—all made from marzipan? If that won’t get you to make the trip, maybe the 80kg white-chocolate statue of Michael Jackson will be a draw—a thriller even. On your way out, it’s hard to resist getting at least a little something from the confectionery or the adjoining cafe.
2 blocks down the street from Tour Inform. 400Ft. Open daily May-Oct 10am-7pm, Nov-Apr 10am-6pm.
CZÓBEL MUSEUM
Templom tér 1
MUSEUM
06 26 310 244
The Czóbel Museum exhibits work by noted artist Béla Czóbel, including his bikini-clad “Venus of Szentendre.” Admission includes access to the adjoining exhibit of works by the Szentendre Artists’ Colony, which are either hit-or-miss.
Head west from Fő tér. English captions. 500Ft, students 300Ft. Open W-Su 10am-6pm.
PARISH CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN
Church Hill
CHURCH
One of the few surviving medieval churches in Hungary that was rebuilt after Ottoman occupation in the 18th century. The holy ghosts have put a curse on all those hoping to snap a photo from inside the church, which costs 100Ft to evade.
On Church Hill. Free. 100Ft to take pictures. Open Tu-Su 10am-4pm. Services Su 7am.
NEMZETI BORMÚZEUM (NATIONAL WINE MUSEUM)
Bogdányi utca 10
MUSEUM
www.bor-kor.hu
The grandiose National Wine Museum consists of little more than a cellar with some displays set up to elaborate on Hungary’s various wine regions. The museum tour is available with a wine-tasting course, which features eight Hungarian wines as well as Hungarian appetizers. During the hot, sticky summer, the mercifully cool wine cellar is worth the trip alone, even if you wine connoisseurs might be less than impressed.
Exhibit 200Ft. Tasting and English-language tour 2200Ft. Open daily 10am-10pm.
FOOD
CAFE CHRISTINE
Görög utca 6
HUNGARIAN
0626 369 7008 www.cafechristine.hu
Enjoy reasonably priced tourist food right by the Danube. In the summer, the small cafe opens up onto the sidewalk with plenty of seating and shade with a mix of umbrellas and trees. Those with little regard for their arteries will spring for the traditional Hungarian beef stew with ewe cheese gnocchi (2100Ft).
From Fő tér walk towards the river; the restaurant is on your right. Entrees 900-4100Ft. Open daily 8am-11:30pm.
LÁNGOS
Dumsta Jenő utca
FRIED DOUGH
For some delicious fried dough, stop at this little lunch counter on your way to the tourist office.
Next to Tourinform. Lángos 165-250Ft. Open daily 10am-8pm.
ART CAFÉ
Fő tér 11
CAFE
0626 311 285
The best pastries in town, as well as gigantic, out-of-this-world ice cream sundaes. Much less assuming than the other places in the main square.
On the right as your heading to the main square. Sundaes from 800Ft. Sandwiches from 650Ft. Open daily 10am-10pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• POST OFFICE: on Fő tér. (06 26 310 011 Open M-F 8am-5pm, Sa 8am-noon.)
• POLICE: (2000 Szentendre Dunakorzó 06 26 310 233). In the neighboring city of Dunakeszi (Tábor utca 2 06 27 341 055).
• HOSPITAL: (Kanonok utca 1 06 26 501 440).
• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourinform is between the center and the stations. Open from mid-Mar to Oct daily 9:30am-1pm and 1:30-4:30pm; from Nov to mid-Mar M-F 9:30am-1pm and 1:30-4:30pm.(Dumtsa Jenő út. 22, 06 02 631 79 65)
Getting There
HÉV trains go to Szentendre ( 480Ft. 45min. 3 per hr.) depart from Budapest’s Batthyány tér station. Buses run from Szentendre to Budapest’s Árpád híd Metro station ( 280Ft. 30min., 1-3 per hr.), Esztergom ( 660Ft. 1hr., 1 per hr.), and Visegrád ( 375Ft. 45min., 1 per hr.). Boats (484 4000) leave from the pier below Vigadó tér ( 2000Ft. 1½hr., 2 per day.).
esztergom
033
Atop the Esztergom Basilica, as the breeze of a thousand years cools your face, looking out at the hills in the distance and the domed bridge that whisks travelers effortlessly across the border into Slovakia, you might feel a bit light-headed. The city of Esztergom produces a kind of ethereal haze, giving it a glow that extends far beyond its historical significance as the birthplace of King St. Stephen. It’s the perfect “city upon a hill,” nestled in the Danube Bend, where the awe-struck traveler will be surprised when he or she runs into locals who live day-to-day in the magical land; many will scramble to share their town and the stories of their great past.
ORIENTATION
Just down the street from the train station is St. Anne Church (Szent Anna Templom), a domed yellow church with a lovely green-lined walkway. On the way from th
e station to the Basilica you can take a detour to the left at Árok utca and check out the Prímás island for a view of the river. Just a little ways down from Árok you’ll find Lőrinc utca, which will take you to Párkányl híd, the bridge that crosses the border to Slovakia. If you continue down Kiss János altábornagy út from the station, past Hősök Tere, you should keep left towards Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Endre utca to hike up to the fortress and Basilica.
SIGHTS
BASILICA OF ESZTERGOM
BASILICA
033 40 23 54 www.bazilika-esztergom.hu
The nave lacks much of the ornamentation of other cathedrals, which gives it a sense of quiet stoicism. The organ, adorned with angelic statues, is one of the largest in Hungary. To one side you can find the millennia-old skull of Saint Stephen, founder of the Kingdom of Hungary. The beautiful Bakócz Chapel, to the left of the nave, is the only surviving chapel from the Middle Ages. The builders disassembled the chapel into 1600 pieces and reincorporated it into the new church while preserving its original form. The church crypt, also a worthy sight, contains the remains of Hungary’s archbishops. Perhaps the greatest attraction is the hike up to the cupola. Four hundred stairs whisk travelers up a tightly wound spiral staircase (not for the claustrophobic) to a magnificent view of the city and neighboring area. On clear days you can see the beautiful pine-covered peaks of the Slovak Low Tatras.
Chapel free. Cupola 400ft. Crypt 200ft. Open Mar-Oct Tu-Su 9am-4:30pm; Nov-Dec Tu-F 9am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-3:30pm.
CASTLE RUINS
RUINS, MUSEUM
033 41 59 86
Around the Basilica you can see the ruins of the castle where St. Stephen was born, which once dominated the same hilltop. A museum now occupies the former ruins and showcases many artifacts from the medieval and Renaissance periods. Some areas allow you to look through the glass floor into the excavation site below. 800Ft. Open Tu-Su 10am-4:45pm.
FOOD
CSÜLÖK CSÁRDA
Batthyány Lajos utca 9
HUNGARIAN
33 41 24 20 www.csulokcsarda.hu
Traditional, but somewhat over-played, here you’ll find Hungarian cuisine in a picnic-esque atmoshphere. Dishes range from the ancient recipe of smoky ox tongue (1390Ft) to aquatic treasures like the Hungarian classic, mixed fish soup (1890Ft). Don’t be turned off by the restaurant’s logo—the ghost from Ghostbusters—the restaurant is usually packed with hungry tourists and locals alike, especially during the summer.
Appetizers 790-1395Ft. Entrees 1690-3990Ft. Open July-Aug M-F 8am-5pm, Sa 9am-noon; Sept-June M-F 8am-4pm.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
Trains run from Budapest’s Nyugati station ( 750Ft. 1½hr, 22 per day). The train station is about a 15min. walk from town. Facing away from the station, go left on the main street. Follow the street around the bend to the left and turn right at Kiss János Vezérezredes út. Buses run from Szentendre ( 500Ft. 1½hr, 1 per hr.) and Visegrád ( 350Ft. 45min., 1 per hr.). From the bus station, walk by Simor János út toward the market. The most spectacular way to get there is by MAHART ferry (484 40 13 www.mahartpassnave.hu), which leaves the pier at Gőzhajó utca on Prímás Sziget for Budapest ( 2985Ft. 5hr., 6 per day).
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Hungary is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time.This means that it is six hours ahead of New York City, nine hours ahead of Los Angeles, one hour ahead of the British Isles, nine hours behind Sydney, and 10 hours behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Tipping is customary in all situations where the customers and service workers—waiters, taxi drivers, and hotel porters—come face to face. Depending upon how satisfied you are with the service, plan to tip 10-15%.
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the UK, and the US.
• VISA: Required for visitors who plan to stay in the Schengen area for more than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT: Required for all foreigners planning to work in Hungary.
Taxes
Most goods in the Schengen area are subject to a Value-Added Tax of 19% (a reduced tax of 7% is applied to books and magazines, foods, and agricultural products). Ask for a VAT return form at points of purchase to enjoy tax-free shopping. Present it at customs upon leaving the country, along with your receipts and the unused goods. Refunds can be claimed at Tax Free Shopping Offices, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail (Tax-Free Shopping Processing Center, Trubelgasse 19, 1030 Vienna Austria).
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
You should not hestitate to contact the police in Budapest (107) if you are the victim of a crime. Be sure to carry a valid passport, as police have the right to ask for identification. Police can sometimes be unhelpful if you are the victim of a currency exchange scam; in that case, you might be better off seeking advice from your embassy or consulate.
Drugs and Alcohol
If you carry insulin, syringes, or any prescription drugs in these cities, you must carry a copy of the prescriptions and a doctor’s note. Avoid public drunkenness as it will jeopardize your safety. In Hungary, drinking is permitted at age 18. Marijuana is entirely illegal in Hungary. Carrying drugs across an international border—considered to be drug trafficking—is a serious offense that could land you in prison.
Smoking is incredibly popular in Hungary. If you are sensitive to cigarette smoke, ask for a non-smoking room in a hotel or hostel, or to be seated in the non-smoking area of a restaurant.
Specific Concerns
Pre-Departure Health
Matching a prescription to a foreign equivalent is not always easy, safe, or possible, so if you take prescription drugs, carry up-to-date prescriptions or a statement from your doctor stating the medications’ trade names, manufacturers, chemical names, and dosages. Be sure to keep all medication with you in your carry-on luggage. Some drugs—like pseudoephedrine (Sudafed) and diphenhydramine (Benadryl)—are not available in Hungary, or are only available with a perscription, so plan accordingly. Drugs such as aspirin (aszpirin), acetaminophen or Tylenol (paracetamol), ibuprofen or Advil, antihistamines (antihisztaminok), and penicillin can be found at any local Hungarian pharmacy.
hungary 101
facts and figures
• ELEVATION OF BUDAPEST: 185m/607ft.
• NUMBER OF CITIES IN BUDAPEST: 2. Separated by the Danube, Buda and Pest still have autonomy though their compound name came into use more than a century ago. Just like Minneapolisstpaul.
• NUMBER OF THEATRES IN BUDAPEST: 86
• SEATS IN BUDAPEST’S DOHÁNY STREET SYNAGOGUE: 3000.
• AGE OF THE MILLENNIUM UNDERGROUND: 114 years old in 2010.
• “TIME WHEEL” TURNOVER TIME: Exactly one year. The sand in this 8m-tall hourglass takes a full year to sift down. How they flip it over is another story.
FOOD AND DRINK
Food
Hungarians don’t take food lightly. Accordingly, traditional Hungarian fare is as heavy as it comes, usually starring meat, potatoes and paprika (the Hungarian kind, which is HOT). No city does savory stews and meaty pancakes better than Budapest, but for those adverse to eating things that once had hooves, there are definitely options. Fortunate constants among most Budapest eateries are generous portions and reasonable prices, no matter what the cuisine. Some local specialties:
• FŐZELÉK. A hearty vegetable stew. Vegetarians, rejoice! It can be flavored with bacon or sausage, though; so ask first, then rejoice.
• HORTOBÁGY PANCAKES. (Hortobágyi Palacsinta) An
ooey-gooey amalgam of fried pancakes, veal chunks, sour cream and paprika.
• GOULASH. The ubiquitous meat, potatoes and paprika stew. Hard to mess up, but beware if you’re sensitive to heat.
• KOLBÁSZ. Hungarian sausage.
• FATÁNYÉROS. A barbeque dish of mixed meat, including mutton, beef, veal, and/or pork.
• HALÁSZLÉ. This “fisherman’s soup” is a spicy showcase of river fish, heated up with (yep) a good dose of paprika.
Drinks
Hungary has become an active wine producer in recent years (especially since the fall of the Soviet Union), a point of pride among modern Budapestians—so much so that a national wine festival is celebrated in the city each September. To impress the locals or expand your palate, try ordering a Budai Zöld, Furmint, Juhfark, Hárslevelu, Kadarka, Kéknyelu, or Királyleányka (and if you successfully get one, make sure to toast your pronunciation skills). Budapest also boasts numerous czardas (old-fashioned taverns), pinces (beer/wine cellars) and sorozos (pubs) that serve as good a selection of local and international beers as anywhere on the continent. Just be careful to order what you want by name—order just sor (beer), and restaurants will often automatically bring you their expensive imported beer, instead of a cheaper Hungarian brand.