Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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CAPELLA CAFE
V, Belgrád rakpart 23
GAY CLUB
70 328 6775 www.capellacafe.hu
Budapest’s first gay discotheque draws a crowd of all orientations to its three levels even during the week. Themed dance rooms, a variety of music and occasional drag nights promise an evening unlike any other in the city. Upstairs you’ll find a laid-back bar with a balcony surrounding the dance floors for those wallflower types.
Trams #2 and 2a: Március 15 tér. Follow the river towards the castle. Cover W-Sa usually 1000ft. Beer and wine 600Ft. Shots from 800Ft. Open daily M-a 10am-5am.
scrub pub
Ruin pubs—the number one trend in nightlife in Budapest these days—are installed in the courtyards and gardens of empty, crumbling old communist-era residential buildings. You won’t see anything from the outside (except people drifting in and out with their plastic beer glasses, or perhaps a beefy guard controlling the noise levels of these residential party pads), but the inner courtyard is decorated with a hodgepodge of hipster-eque furniture: bathtubs for sofas, a table with eight different chairs, etc. Concerts, DJs, films, and alternative exhibits provide the entertainment at these hot hangouts.
Lipótváros
BECKETT’S IRISH PUB
V, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 72
PUB
01 311 1035 www.becketts.hu
The only Irish pub in Budapest that is owned and operated by an actual Irish-man, it’s mostly expats with hearty laughs and iron livers here. Get a kick out of Irish culture juxtaposed with Hungarian locals debating politics or soccer. Fall and winter months bring live concerts in the form of Oasis cover bands.
M3: Nyugati. From the Metro walk south. The pub is on the right. Sandwiches 950-1950Ft. Beer from 600Ft. Shots from 445Ft. 10% discount with student ID. Open M-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am, Su noon-midnight. Kitchen open until midnight.
Erzsébetváros
SZIMPLA KERT
Kazinczy utca
RUIN PUB
01 352 41 98 www.szimpla.hu
Graffiti designs adorn the crumbling walls, a hodgepodge of furniture ranging from your grandmother’s Victorian love-seat to the old beach lounger you threw in the garage, colorful lighting, a movie screen, and concert stage make for a chilled out night in hipster glory at Budapest’s original ruin pub. Smoke in the courtyard, eat crepes by the bar, or make out upstairs in the bathtub. Mind-blowing films screened almost every night nicely compliment the dream-like atmosphere.
M2: Astoria. Head east on Rákóczi út and turn left on Kazinczy. Check the website for event listings. Beer from 350Ft. Shots from 600Ft. Mixed drinks 1400-2500Ft. Open daily noon-3am.
MUMUS
Dob utca 18
RUIN PUB
If you can figure out how to keep mellow at this laid-back bar where the booze runs cheaper than penny candy, shoot us an email. Local students and artists along with the occasional with-it backpacker haunt the place with an off-the-grid atmosphere: non-sloppy, all-night boozing. A classy ruin pub with a simple decor that invites an intelligent clientele to sip, chat, and listen to floaty music.
M2: Astoria. Head north on Károly krt and turn right on Dob utca. Beer from 240Ft. Shots 250-500Ft. Wine from 200Ft. Open M-Sa 3pm-3am, Su 4pm-midnight.
MOST
Zichy Jenő utca 17
RUIN PUB
www.szilvuple.hu
A new take on the ruin pub, Most offers a diverse array of styles; classic grunge furniture to sleeker decor on the terrace means a good night for everyone. Three venues, each with its own personality, guarantee to serve a clientele base just as unique. Head upstairs to the balcony for a romantic drink, chill indoors on the first floor amidst the books and odds-and-ends to get your hipster on, or never leave the unassuming garden where you entered—a plot of land transformed into a quiet oasis of happy conversation and cheap drinking.
M1: Opera. East on Andrássy, left on Nagymező and left on Zichy Jenő. Beer 550Ft. Wine 450Ft. Open daily 11am-3am.
Józsefváros
CORVINTETŐ
Blaha Lujza tér 1-2
CLUB
01 772 29 84 www.corvinteto.hu
As you’re walking up in anticipation of what’s to come, don’t be fooled by the graffiti-stained stairs and concrete monstrosity in front of you: this dance-and-drink party place on top of a former state-owned department store is a stylish club offering one of the most breathtaking views in Budapest. Regular DJs and live acts are a popular draw in the red-lit lounge area, but head outside in the summer to the three bars and non-stop grooving.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. From the station, walk towards the Corvin building; the entrance is along Somogy Béla út, up the stairs. Beer from 320Ft. Shots 600-950Ft. Open daily 6pm-5am.
Ferencváros
RUMBA CAFÉ
Lónyay utca 27
BAR
3670 503 69 69 www.rumbacafe.hu
A super-relaxed bar that makes you feel like you’re in your best friend’s den. Worn sofas, an eclectic mix of posters, ’70s-esque armchairs, and wooden tables offer a nice flashback as you sip island drinks—the house specialty is Sex on the Rumba (rum, pineapple juice and apricot brandy; 950Ft).
M3: Ferenc körút. From the station, head west on Üllői and left on Kinizsi and right on Lonyay utca. Shots from 660Ft. Open Tu-Sa 6pm-midnight.
Várhegy, Central Buda, and the Vizivaros
ZÖLD PARDON
Goldmann György tér
ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX
01 279 1880 www.zp.hu
“Green” Pardon has gained a bit of a bad name over the past few years for catering primarily to 16-year-olds yearning to escape their parents and have a night of unrestricted smoking and paying their elders to buy them drinks. Contrary to stereotype, however, the rising number of savvy Budapestians who know what’s up would wholeheartedly recommend this expansive open-air venue to anyone young, old, short, or tall looking for a good time. The summer months bring countless DJs, rappers, hip-hop stars, and dancers, while the constantly changing drink specials at the multiple bars will have you seeing green elephants well into the morning hours.
Trams 4 or 6: Petőfi híd, budai hídfő. Check website and Facebook for event listings. Cover 300Ft. Beer from 350Ft. Mixed drinks from 1000Ft. Open Apr-Oct daily 11am-5am.
Margit-Sziget
HOLDUDVAR
Margit Sziget
OUTDOOR BAR
01 236 01 55 www.holdudvar.net
Built on 13th century ruins, this giant garden venue doles out the best tunes, tastiest fare, and wildest nights on the island. Hit up the place during the day and gorge on such tasty things as “paprika chicken breast with curded ewe cheese dumplings” (1900Ft) and come back by the midnight hours to watch a film outdoors, dance like there’s no tomorrow, and, most importantly, drink the cheapest beverages on the island until you forget what tomorrow means.
From the Margit Bridge entrance, take the main road; the garden will be on your right, across from the Hajós Alfréd Swimming Pool. Film screenings on the open-air cinema Su 9pm. Beer from 300Ft. Shots 790-1400Ft. Appetizers 1700-2500Ft. Pasta 1700-2900Ft. Entrees 1500-4500Ft. Open in summer daily 11am-5am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Music and Opera
ACADEMY OF MUSIC
Liszt Ferenc tér 8
TERÉZVÁROS
01 342 0179 www.zeneakademia.hu
Find the nation’s young musical prodigies all in one room at the prestigious Academy of Music. Pray to the music gods to make you lucky enough to catch a concert in the majestic Art Nouveau building that houses the school in Franz Liszt’s honor.
M1: Oktogon. From the station, head east on Teréz krt and turn right on Király utca; the academy will be on your right 1 block down. Check the website or call for concert listings. Schedules vary and there are rarely concerts in summer. Prices vary. Box office open daily 2-8pm.
MAGYAR ÁLLAMI OPERAHÁZ (STATE OPERA HOUSE)
Andrássy �
�t 22
TERÉZVÁROS
01 353 0170 www.opera.hu
Housed in a magnificent Neo-Rennaissance building that took nine years to construct, the Hungarian State Opera hosts some of the continent’s finest operas, ballets, and classical performances. While some tickets sell out a year in advance, rush tickets are sometimes available at a fraction of the normal price 1hr. before the performance.
M1: Opera. Call for show schedules, or check the poster at the gate. Tickets 1000-9000Ft. Box office open M-Sa 11am-7pm, Su 4-7pm. Closes at 5pm on non-performance days.
Theater
MADÁCH SZÍNHÁZ
Erzsébet körút 29
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
01 478 2041 www.madachszinhaz.hu
A local favorite, Madách Színház is one of the few theaters in the city that suits all tastes. From Cats to Monty Python to Anna Karenina, you can get your fill of culture in all its many shades.
Tram 4 or 6: Wesselényi utca. From the station, walk across the street. Check online for listings and prices. Prices vary; approximately 800-5200Ft. Box office open daily 1pm-6:30pm.
Dance
NEMZETÍ TÁNCSZÍNHÁZ (NATIONAL DANCE THEATRE)
Színház utca 1-3
THE BELVÁROS
01 201 4407 www.dancetheatre.hu
The only 18th-century theater building in Hungary that’s still a theater has been home to many key events in Hungarian cultural history. The first Hungarian-language play was performed here in 1790, and many of classical music’s luminaries, including Beethoven, played here. Today the theater is home to Budapest’s dance performances, which encompass ballet, modern dance, and folk.
Castle Hill, just north of the royal palace. Facing the castle, the theater is to the right, up the stairs. Tickets 2500Ft. Box office open M-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-5pm.
SHOPPING
Music
FERENC LISZT MUSIC SHOP
Andrássy út 45
TERÉZVÁROS
01 322 4091
Named after Hungary’s most famous composer, the store mostly carries classical music as well as musical necessities like sheet music and instructional how-to tapes.
M1: Oktogon. From the station, walk south toward the Opera. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-1pm.
WAVE MUSIC
Révay köz 1
TERÉZVÁROS
01 269 0754 www.wave.hu
A carefully selected collection of CDs, LPs, and DVDs to satisfy tastes that range from alternative punk to jazz.
M1: Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. From the station, head north on Bajcsy-Zsilinszky and turn right on Révay köz. Check out the online library coming soon. Open M-Sa 10am-8pm.
Books
PENDRAGON
Pozsonyi út 21-23
TERÉZVÁROS
01 340 4426
A diverse selection of English novels and travel guides, neatly stacked by a helpful and friendly staff.
Tram 4 or 6: Jászai Mari tér. From the station, walk up Pozsonyi út. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-2pm.
Clothes
JAJCICA
Dohány utca 94
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
01 321 2081 www.jajcica.hu
Hip, alternative clothing and an awesome selection of retro shoes and leather boots.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. From the Metro walk north on Erzsébet körút, turn right on Dohány utca, the store will be on your left. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm.
G-STAR RAW
Andrássy út 2
THE BELVÁROS
01 484 6484 www.g-star.com
Stylish denim that’s quite pricey, but the store itself is worth a gander. Gives new meaning to the word Metro-polis.
M1: Bajcsy-Zsilinszky. From the station, walk across the street. Open daily 10am-6pm.
Food
LEHEL PIAC
Lehel tér
DISTRICT XIII
The best open-air market to buy fruit and veggies for pennies or less. All local growers and the lack of a middle man makes it an authentic price.
Open M-F 6am-6pm, Sa 6am-2pm, Su 6am-1pm.
Specialty
LEKVÁRIUM
Dohány utca 39
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
01 321 6543
This place sells homemade jam almost as good as your grandmother makes. Try the strawberry jam—the older, the tastier.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. Open M-F 10am-6pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourinform arranges tours and accommodations. (V, Sütő u. 2. 01 429 97 51. incoming@vista.hu Budapest Card (Budapest Kártya) provides discounts, unlimited public transportation, and admission to most museums (2-day card 6300Ft, 3-day 7500Ft. Open M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-2:30pm.)
• DOMESTIC OPERATOR: 190
• INFORMATION: 199
• GLBT RESOURCES: GayGuide.net Budapest posts an online guide and runs a hotline with info and a reservation service for GLBT-friendly lodgings. (01 06 30 932 33 34. www.budapest.gayguide.net Hotline open daily 4-8pm.) Na Végre! publishes an up-to-date guide to gay nightlife, available at any gay bar. ( www.navegre.hu).
• POST OFFICE: (V, Városház utca 18 01 318 4811. Poste Restante, Postán Mar, is in office around the right side of the building. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-2pm.) Alternative branches at Nyugati station, VI, Teréz körút; 105/107 Keleti Station, VIII, Baross tér 11/c; and elsewhere. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 8am-2pm.
• POSTAL CODE: Depends on the district—postal codes are 1XX2, where XX is the district number.
Emergency!
• TOURIST POLICE: (V, Sütő utca 2, inside the Tourinform office. 01 438 80 80. M1, M2, or M3: Deák tér. Beware of imposters demanding to see your passport. Open 24hr.)
• PHARMACIES: (II, Frankel Leó út 22 01 314 36 95. Generally, look for green signs labeled Apotheke, Gyógyszertár, or Pharmacie. Open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa 7:30am-2pm. Minimal after-hours service fees apply.)
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Falck (SOS) KFT. (II, Kapy út 49/b. 01 224 90 90. The US embassy maintains a list of English-speaking doctors.)
Getting There
By Plane
Ferihegy Airport (BUD; 01 235 38 88). From the airport to the center, take bus #93 ( 270Ft. 20min., every 15min. 4:55am-11:20pm), then #3 to Kőbánya-Kispest (15min. to Deák tér, in downtown Budapest). Airport Minibus (01 296 85 55) goes to hostels ( 2990Ft).
By Train
The major stations, Keleti Pályaudvar, Nyugati Pályaudvar, and Déli Pályaudvar, are also Metro stops (3640 49 49 49). Most international trains arrive at Keleti Station, but some from Prague go to Nyugati Station. For schedules, check www.mav.hu, part of which is in English. Prices change often and sometimes depend on time of day and time of year. To: Berlin ( 15,800Ft. 12-13hr., 4 per day); Bucharest, ROM ( 23,600Ft. 14hr., 5 per day); Prague, CZR ( 16,300Ft. 7-8hr., 5 per day); Vienna, AUT ( 3600Ft. 3hr., 17 per day); Warsaw, POL ( 18,500Ft. 11hr., 2 per day). The daily Orient Express stops on its way from Paris, FRA to Istanbul, TUR. Trains run to most major destinations in Hungary. Purchase tickets at an International Ticket Office ( Keleti Station open daily 8am-7pm; Nyugati Station open M-Sa 5am-9pm; info desk 24hr.). Or try MÁV Hungarian Railways, VI, Andrássy út 35. (461 55 00. Branches at all stations. Open Apr-Sept M-F 9am-6pm, Oct-Mar M-F 9am-5pm.) The HÉV Commuter Railway Station is at Batthyány tér, opposite Parliament. Trains head to Szentendre ( 460Ft. 45min., every 15min. 5am-9pm). Purchase tickets at the station for transport beyond the city limits.
By Bus
Buses to international and some domestic destinations leave from the Népliget Station, X, Üllői út 131. ( M3: Népliget. 01 329 14 50. Cashier open 6am-8pm.) Check www.volanbusz.hu for schedules.
Getting Around
By Train
The HÉV Commuter Rail Station is across the river from Parliament, one Metro stop past the Danube in Buda at Batthyány tér. On the list of stops, those within the city limits are displayed in a different color. For these stops, a regular Metro ticket w
ill suffice. Purchase tickets at the counter to travel beyond the city limits. Békásmegye is the final stop within the city limits.
hot ticket
Student discounts are NOT available for trains; you will get fined if you purchase a student ticket with your ISIC card, so beware of scams. There is typically a discount for travelers under 26 on afternoon and weekend trains. Ask at the register.