Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Trastevere
Trastevere is to Rome what Brooklyn is to New York—overlooked by tourists, loved by locals, and removed from the metropolitan center while still being in the thick of things. Just across the Tiber River, this enclave of cobblestone streets and small piazze boasts some of the best nightlife Rome has to offer; it’s as popular with international students at the nearby university as it is with neighborhood residents whose families have called Trastevere home for generations. Although you likely won’t spend the night here, as there are few budget-friendly accommodations, dinner in Trastevere won’t break the bank. Restaurants that have managed to escape the tourist bubble abound—just throw away your map, get a little lost, and make your way into one of the tasty and unpretentious homegrown establishments that fill the neighborhood. If you’ve had enough of monuments and ruins, take a walk in the lush gardens leading into Monteverde (which has “green” in its name for a reason). You knew you weren’t going to get through this book without reading that old saying, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Well, if living like a true Roman means making friendly Trastevere your home as well, following that well-worn adage can’t do you wrong.
Termini And Northeast Rome
Ask people if they saw the Vatican, the Colosseum, or any other number of famed sights on their last trip to Rome, and chances are they’ll say no to at least one of them: with so much to take in, something’s got to give. Ironic, then, that everyone passes through Termini, as mundane and unromantic as it is. It seems like everyone sticks around here as well—the area around the station is home to an astonishing concentration of budget hotels. In the San Lorenzo neighborhood is Sapienza University, Rome’s largest, helping to ensure that this part of the city has a thoroughly vibrant young culture. Be aware that, though lively, this area is hardly charming, and many pickpockets work here.
For charm, head a little further north to the Villa Borghese, one of Rome’s largest parks. The surrounding neighborhoods of Parioli and Flaminio are also more chilled-out than much of Rome (especially Termini), so come here for a break. In between Termini and Villa Borghese runs the Via Nomentana, the area around which is full of good restaurants, serene streets, and a more residential feel.
Testaccio, Ostiense, and Southern Rome
Located south of the Colosseum, Testaccio and Ostiense are left off most tourist itineraries and are literally left off of Rome’s central map. Take advantage of this relative anonymity and get lost in their quiet streets by day, making sure to save energy for their pulsing clubs at night. Comprised of newer, residential housing and paved streets, these uncongested neighborhoods let you put away the guidebook for an afternoon (though studies have shown that copies of Let’s Go double their lifespan if exposed to ample sunlight, so consider keeping yours out) and just wander a bit.
As you go even further south, you’ll find more quiet residential streets, enough churches to convert you to Catholicism, and, yes, more ruins of sorts. Though it takes a while to reach the more serene stretch of the Appian Way, once you do, you’ll feel miles away from bustling Rome.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Finding lodging in Rome is not as daunting as it may seem, even though the tourist offices do not provide as extensive listings as those in other cities. Options range from cheap hostels to four-star hotels and a slew of places in between. Expect the most standard and comprehensive services at hotels, with a price to match. Better hostels have kitchens, no curfew, and services geared to students such as maps, internet access, tours, and even bars. Smaller pensione, bed and breakfasts, and alberghi (the Italian word for hotels) are often located within a larger building of apartments and thus may be harder to find without advance knowledge. Such establishments often offer fewer rooms and services but more availability during high season, even at the last minute. Disregard the rule for hotels and hostels at these lodging houses and make reservations in person. These are often more convenient for the proprieters and may get you a lower rate. Discounts are often given for longer stays and for payments made in cash.
Termini is the best place to find last-minute and conveniently-located accommodations, especially for travelers arriving by train. If you have not booked in advance, however, be wary of hotel scouts who will jump at the opportunity to advertise overpriced rooms late in the evening. Before booking, be sure to ask about services offered: some places charge for breakfast, A/C, internet, or, even worse, all three.
Ancient City
Home to some of the biggest monuments in Rome, the Ancient City is not the cheapest place to plant yourself during a visit to Italy’s capital, though if you’re willing to shell out at least €100 a night, you’ll have more than enough four-star options to choose from. Never fear, however; plenty of bed and breakfasts and pensioni offer decent services at a much lower cost.
CASA SANTA PUDENZIANA
V. Urbana 158
CONVENT
06 48 80 56
If you’re of the female persuasion and don’t mind a 10:30pm curfew (12:30am on Sa), the quiet and spatious grounds of Casa Santa Pudenziana might just provide a welcome relief from the more crowded (and somewhat pricier) hostels nearby. This convent’s six-bed dorm, double, and single make for a small community of guests—and that’s if there are no vacancies. Guests here often run into each other at breakfast, dinner, or throughout the day in the peaceful central garden. Library and chapel upstairs as well as clean common spaces with television, refrigerator, and microwave. Wi-Fi from nearby hotels floats through some parts of the convent, but Let’s Go does not recommend relying on stolen Wi-Fi. No lockers or keys, so get ready to greet the friendly staff every time you buzz to get in.
A: Cavour. From V. Cavour, turn onto V. Urbana. Women only. Breakfast included 7-9am; dinner 8pm, €10. Dorms €22; singles €40; doubles €52. Inquire about discounts for longer stays. Strict curfew M-F 10:30pm, Sa 12:30am, Su 10:30pm.
STUDENT HOUSE
V. Merulana 117
HOSTEL
www.hostelworld.com
This small hostel does indeed feel like a house—the central reception area is more like a living room complete with bookshelves, photos, TV, and colorful furniture than a place to check in and out. Student House’s rooms consist of two six-bed co-ed dorms, so don’t plan on making it your private getaway. The living spaces are sunny and equipped with bunks and mirrors. The hall bathrooms might not be convenient, but the small communal kitchen and free Wi-Fi are. Brush up on your Italian before you get here—the owner speaks no English.
A: Manzoni. From V. Emanuele Filberto, walk straight on V. Manzoni and make a right onto V. Merulana. Reserve your space at hostelworld.com. Set up check-in time in advance to avoid arriving when the owner is out. Towels €1. Dorms €20.
HOTEL SAN DANIELE BUNDÌ
V. Cavour 295
HOTEL
06 48 75 295 www.hotelsandanielebundi.it
Neighboring establishments recommend Hotel Bundì for its simple rooms and accommodating staff. Although the hotel is small, its central location, competitive prices, and surprising tranquillity make it a good bet. Rooms have Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, private bathrooms, and TVs. Complimentary breakfast is an added perk.
A: Colosseum. From V. dei Fori Imperiali, make a right onto V. Cavour. Buzz at the doors and take Scale B to the 3rd fl. Singles €65; doubles €85. Reception closes at 8pm.
PENSIONE ROSETTA
V. Cavour 295
PENSIONE
06 47 82 3069 www.rosettahotel.com
A friendly staff and clean, though spartan, rooms make Pensione Rosetta a convenient option for those who hope to roll out of bed and check out the Colosseum in their pajamas. Each of Rosetta’s 20 rooms have a private bathroom, a telephone, a TV, and air-conditioning; free Wi-Fi is available in public areas. The central courtyard provides a welcome respite from the busy V. Cavour.
A: Colosseum.
From V. dei Fori Imperiali, make a right onto V. Cavour. Buzz at the doors and take Scala B to the 1st fl. Singles €65; doubles €90; triples €105; quads €120.
CESARE BALBO INN
V. Cesare Balbo 43
HOTEL
06 98 38 60 81
Conveniently located entirely on the first floor, Cesare Balbo Inn is the perfect choice for those too lazy to climb a flight of stairs or walk more than a mile to Rome’s ancient sights. Rooms here are big, colorful, and sunny. The staff is friendly, but they might get a little confused if you ask questions about topics as complicated as how much a room costs. Free internet, private bathrooms, in-room breakfast, and air-conditioning round out this small establishment.
A: Cavour: From V. Cavour, make a right on V. Panisperna; walk 2 blocks and make a right on V. Cesare Balbo. Doubles €90; triples €100; quads €110. Reception 24hr.
SANDY HOSTEL
V. Cavour 136
HOSTEL
06 48 84 585 www.sandyhostel.com
If all of Termini’s more popular hostels are full, this spot offers a very cheap, if barely passable, alternative. While the sound of music (not the von Trapp family kind) coming from neighbors in the building can make for a less-than-peaceful experience, and the strong cigarette smell permeating the rooms may gross you out, the sunny rooms will help appease at least one of your five senses. The staff hardly strives to deliver great service, but that’s to be expected at this no-frills establishment.
A: Cavour. Walk up Cavour. Buzz and walk to the 5th fl. Computer with ethernet provided. Reserve online. Co-ed 4- to 6-bed dorms €20-30. Reception 7am-midnight. 2-week max. stay.
Centro Storico
The Centro Storico is not the cheapest place to stay, but hotels here often have a lot more character and offer better services than those found elsewhere. Reserve rooms well in advance and don’t expect them to be cheap.
ALBERGO DEL SOLE
V. del Biscione 76
HOTEL
06 68 80 68 73 www.solealbiscione.it
Especially well-furnished rooms with antique furniture, paintings, and curtains make this place feel more like a home than a hotel. Great common spaces, including a garden terrace and sitting rooms on each floor, give Alberge del Sole a lived-in quality. Knowledgable staff are welcoming and straight-forward.
Exit P. di Fiori onto V. del Biscione. Most rooms with A/C, otherwise with fan. Wi-Fi €1.50 per hr. Singles €70, with bath €110-125; doubles €100-105/€120-160. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL SMERALDO
Vicolo dei Chiodaroli 9
HOTEL
06 68 75 929 www.hotelsmeraldoroma.com
Somewhat tight rooms are clean and bright, sporting well-coordinated decor. The gracious reception staff inspires confidence in guests by happily giving advice to travelers. There are no surprises here—rooms are well-equipped and neatly kept.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari, turn left onto V. dei Chiavari and right onto Vicolo dei Chiodaroli. Breakfast included. All rooms have private bath. Wi-Fi €5 per hr. in common areas; public computer available. Singles €70-110; doubles €90-145. Reception 24hr.
ALBERGO POMEZIO
V. dei Chiavari 13
HOTEL
06 68 61 371
This hotel’s fast-paced and assertive owner offers large and nicely decorated rooms with curtains and matching trimmings. Good services, including free Wi-Fi, for the location and price. The large breakfast room is one of the few common spaces for guests.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto V. dei Chiavari. All rooms have private bath. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €70-100; doubles €100-140. Weekends tend to be more expensive.
Piazza Di Spagna
Staying in the Piazza di Spagna area is a pricey affair, and though you might be getting newer accommodations and slightly better services, you’ll be surrounded by more crowds than are present in the Ancient City or Centro Storico. Boasting little nightlife to boot, this neighborhood is a better bet for older folks who want reliable services than for youth seeking value and fun.
HOTEL PANDA
V. della Croce 35
HOTEL
06 67 80 179 www.hotelpanda.it
Luckily (or not), there are no panda bears around, but you’ll feel as warm and fuzzy as one of these bamboo-chomping cuties while staying at this small, family-run hotel. Simply decorated rooms come with A/C, Wi-Fi, and TV at a better price than the spiffier hotels down the street. Opt for a bigger room if you can, as the small ones really are small. Though there isn’t much common space (read: narrow hallways and no breakfast room), the rooms are enough of a retreat for this shortfall to be inconsequential.
A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, take V. Condotti, turn right onto V. Belsiana and right onto V. della Croce. Hotel is on the 2nd fl. Breakfast €5 at downstairs bar. A/C €6. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €55-68, with bath €65-80; doubles €68-78/€85-108; triples €120-140. Reception 24hr.
DEPENDANCE ANAHI
V. della Penna 22
HOTEL
06 36 10 841 www.hotellocarno.com
Dependance Anahi boasts a prime location and stellar services, if less history and pomp than its sister across the street. Mostly double rooms and two singles all have TV, A/C, private bath, minibar, and free Wi-Fi, and Art Nouveau detailing gives the place more flavor than your standard rooming house. Head across the street to enjoy a buffet breakfast in the quiet, vine-covered patio or relax in the palatial lounge rooms.
A: Flaminio. From P. del Popolo, exit near V. di Ripetta and immediately turn right onto V. Penna d’Oca. Across the street from Hotel Locarno; reception at V. della Penna 22. Breakfast included. Bath, minibar, and safe ensuite. Free bike rental. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €90-120; doubles €110-190. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL DE PRETIS
V. Rasella 142
HOTEL
06 48 19 626 www.hoteldepetris.com
Not only are rooms equipped with all the basics—TV, A/C, free Wi-Fi, and minibar—but they’re especially elegant. Superior rooms have hardwood floors and modern furniture, while the standards are less luxe, though bigger than average. Expect no surprises from the reliable rooms and staff.
A: Barberini. From P. Barberini, take V. del Tritone, turn left onto V. Boccaccio and left onto V. Rasella. Breakfast included. All rooms have ensuite bath. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €94-136; doubles €113-171. Extra bed €46. Reception 24hr.
DOMUS JULIA
V. Rasella 32
HOTEL
06 47 45 765 www.domusjulia.it
The friendly dog at Domus Julia makes up for the reception staff who can be a bit short of temper at times. The hotel’s 18th-century building retains its historic look but brings itself up to the 21st century with all the expected comforts, including free internet. If you’ve gotten a bit bored of seeing Roman ruins, rent one of their bikes for free or even earn an extra euro by walking the dog. The breakfast room is a nice hang-out even in the evening.
A: Barberini. From P. Barberini, take V. del Tritone, turn left onto V. Boccaccio and left onto V. Rasella. Breakfast included. All rooms have minibar and ensuite bath. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €60-100; doubles €78-180; triples €89-210. Reception 24hr.
Vatican City
When it comes to hotels, the area immediately around the Vatican is as overpriced as the pizza and souvenirs. However, the quieter streets nearer the river and Prati offer many affordable options, mostly small hotels within residential buildings. A nice area in which to stay due to its proximity to the sights and distance from the centro’s chaos, it may only be lacking in nightlife, which is (expectedly) quiet.
COLORS
V. Boezio 31
HOTEL, HOSTEL
06 68 74 030 www.colorshotel.com
The rooms smell fresh like wood and look bright, as colors should. The boldly pigmented adornments of their 23 rooms help keep guests’ stays comfortable, while the free Wi-Fi is simply convenient (and rare for this
neighborhood). If the rainbow inside has you wanting some straight-up green, head to the rooftop terrace. One dormitory with five beds gives this hotel a hostel spirit. The room has A/C though, putting it miles beyond most hostels.
A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano; turn left onto V. Cola di Rienzo and right onto V. Terenzio; at the intersection with V. Boezio. Breakfast included at hotel; €7 in dorm. Common terrace, TV room, and mini-kitchen. Free Wi-Fi. Dorms €15-30; singles €30, with bath €50-80; doubles €70-100. Reception 24hr.