Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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HOTEL AL SAN PIETRO
V. Giovanni Bettolo 43
HOTEL
06 37 00 132 www.sanpietrino.it
Small green frogs (don’t worry, they’re ceramic) and the smell of flowers greet guests at this small hotel, located only 5min. from the Vatican museums. Though the rooms aren’t particularly large, free Wi-Fi and staff that matches the upbeat decor make it a better deal than hotels advertised nearby. No breakfast, but there’s an organic grocery store down the street.
A: Ottaviano. Exit onto V. Barletta and turn left onto V. Bettolo. Singles with shared bath. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €40-50; doubles €70-89; triples €115. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL GIUGGIOLI
V. Germanico 198, 2nd fl.
HOTEL
06 36 00 53 89 www.hotelgiuggioli.it
The silver accents and geometric furniture give this top-notch hotel a distinctly modern feel. Carpeted rooms are very clean and generously sized, though a bit dimly lit. If long lines at the Vatican aren’t your thing, bike rental gives you another reason to travel elsewhere in the city. The lovely bar and kitchen area (open 1-9pm) feels more like an upscale restaurant then a hotel add-on.
A: Lepanto. Walk down V. Ezio and turn right onto V. Germanico. Breakfast included. All rooms have private bath and minibar ensuite. Wi-Fi €1 per hr. Singles €70-110; doubles €80-130. Bike rental €12 per hr. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL LADY
V. Germanico 198, 4th fl.
PENSIONE
06 32 42 112 www.hotelladyroma.it
Aesthetics trump amenities here: the old-fashioned charm of this former monastery is unfortunately accompanied by a lack of A/C and Wi-Fi. Still, the original wood-beamed ceilings and amber stained-glass windows create a comforting feel that most modern hotels can’t replicate. Fans and antique wooden furniture that looks like it’s been here for a century add to Hotel Lady’s appeal. Rooms without bathrooms may be less convenient but are significantly bigger.
A: Lepanto. Walk down V. Ezio and turn right onto V. Germanico. Singles and triples with shared bath only. Internet room available. Singles €60; doubles €75, with bath €90; triples €120. Reception 24hr., but call about arrival time.
A ROMA SAN PIETRO BAND B
V. Crescenzio 85
B AND B
06 68 78 205 www.ftraldi.it
Though it may not be quirkier than a hotel, this small bed and breakfast offers brightly colored (though somewhat blandly furnished) rooms with excellent perks: A/C, free Wi-Fi, and complimentary breakfast make it better than some hotels. Reserve in advance and schedule arrival time, as there are only five rooms and the owner might be out. Watch out for the dripping water in the courtyard.
A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano and turn left onto V. Crescenzio. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €40-50; doubles €60-110; triples €70-140. Extra bed €10-25. Call to schedule arrival time.
Termini and Northeast Rome
Termini abounds with hotels, hostels, bed and breakfasts, and pensioni. There’s a roughly one-to-one ratio of extremely cheap to extremely overpriced options, so do research beforehand and try to book at least one week in advance, especially for summer stays. Although the proximity to Termini station makes living here convenient, the area is not the safest place at night. Be wary of pickpockets and, if possible, avoid walking about in the late hours.
M AND J PLACE HOSTEL
V. Solferino 9
HOSTEL
06 44 62 802 www.mejplacehostel.com
A prime location, helpful staff, and clean rooms grace this wonderful hostel. M and J Place boasts great common spaces (kitchen, balcony, and TV lounge) as well as a calm feel enhanced by rooms that are neat and not too crowded. Private rooms are more reminiscent of a hotel with A/C, computers, TV, and towels ensuite. The reception desk posts weekly events in the city, provides laptop rentals, lends books, offers printing and photocopying services, and has public computers in case you need to get organized. If you’d rather relax, the downstairs restaurant, bar, and club provide food all day, an aperitivo hour at 6pm, and a chance to dance at 11pm.
Termini. Walk down V. Marsala away from the station, and turn right onto V. Solferino. Breakfast included in some reservations; book online and choose (€3 otherwise). Lockers outside room. Free luggage storage until 9pm. Towels €2. 1hr. free internet with booking; €2 per hr. or €5 per 4hr. thereafter. All-female dorms available. 10-bed dorms €25; 8-bed €26; 6-bed €32-35; 4-bed €35-37.50. Singles €75; doubles €80-120; triples €150; quads €180. Reception 24hr. Restaurant/bar open daily 7am-late. Kitchen open 3-10pm.
ALESSANDRO DOWNTOWN
V. C. Cattaneo, 23
HOSTEL
06 44 34 0147 www.hostelsalessandro.com
This conveniently located hostel is a bit less party-hardy than its sister, the Palace, but offers great services to backpackers and students. Large common spaces, communal kitchen, and dorms make it less cramped than nearby hostels, although bunk beds can take down the comfort level of the largest dorms. Other than the midday cleaning which prevents you from resting in your room until after 3pm, Alessandro Downtown is ready to take care of you after a long day in the city.
Termini. Take V. Giovanni Giolitti and turn left onto V. C. Cattaneo. Breakfast included. Free pasta dinners M-F 7pm. Lockers ensuite; free luggage storage before 2pm. Towel rental. Book online 1 week in advance Apr-Aug. 30 min. free Wi-Fi daily; €2 per hr. thereafter. 8-bed dorms €14-29; 6-bed €15-30; 4-bed (co-ed) with bath €19-40; doubles €50-53, with bath €55-110. Reception 24hr. Rooms must be evacuated 10am-3pm for cleaning.
prego
Prego. The word is like pizza: Italians have somehow found a way to top or dress it with anything; to have it in any context, at any time of day; and to make it hot, cold, or even lukewarm to match the occasion. Whatever the situation, it all flies:
• “PREGO?” The first thing you’ll hear as you walk into a pasticceria. Translation: “How can I help you?” or “What do you want?” And they expect you to know, immediately. (Standing around asking prices doesn’t fly too well.)
• “PREGO!” A favorite of the Sistine Chapel guards. Amid the clamor of docents shushing people and telling them not to take pictures, you hear the word muttered sternly, more like a reprimand than anything else. Translation: “Geez...thanks for being quiet after the 15th time I’ve told you to turn off your camera and shut your trap!”
• “PREGO.” The sweetest version of them all, when it’s just a simple statement, often following “grazie.” After you buy a gelato or compliment someone, the recipient of your cash or flattery will often acknowledge his or her thanks by calmly uttering the word. Translation: “You’re welcome” or “I’m honored.”
• “PREGO” (WITH OPTIONAL “!”) Actually used in its dictionary sense, this prego can mean “I pray.” Now, Italians pray for all kinds of things—in religious contexts, in which case the exclamation mark probably isn’t necessary, but also in more mundane or demanding contexts. It’s often a favorite of cleaning ladies. Walking into a room full of strewn backpack contents, you might catch a despairing “Pre-e-g-o-ooooo.”
ALESSANDRO PALACE
V. Vicenza 42
HOSTEL
06 44 61 958 www.hostelsalessando.com
A historically decorated bar (check out the “frescoed” ceiling) turned modern (check out the speakers and TV!) makes this one of the most social hostels around. While the nightly pizza giveaway (8:30pm) goes fast, great happy hours and drink specials keep guests around all evening. A/C keeps the rooms bearable in the mid-July Roman heat, though big dorm size can make restful sleep difficult. Still, this is as close as a hostel gets to being a palace.
Termini. Walk up V. Marsala away from the station and turn right onto V. Vicenza. Breakfast included; free pizza daily Apr-July 8:30pm. Lockers ensuite. Fridges in some doubles. Reserve online at least 1 week in advance during high season. 30min. free Wi-Fi daily. all dorms have private bathroom. 8-bed
dorms €15-30; 6-bed €16-36; 4-bed €18-38, with bath €21-42. Doubles €55-115, with bath €65-130; triples €75-135/€81-147. Reception 24hr. Free luggage storage before 3pm. Bar open daily 6pm-2am.
THE YELLOW
V. Palestro 44
HOSTEL
06 49 38 2682 www.the-yellow.com
This hostel isn’t called “yellow” because it’s scared, but because it’s so darn happy. The perfect place for social butterflies, this establishment boasts a full bar (customers will likely spend more time here than in their somewhat small rooms) and over five floors of dorms as well as colored lights and funky posters in the hallways. Skype headsets, locks, and even laptops are conveniently available to rent or purchase at the reception desk. Come here for fun times . . . not to wake up at 6am for a hike to the Vatican.
Termini. Take V. Milazzo away from the station and turn left onto V. Palestro. Breakfast €2-10 at the bar next door. Lockers ensuite; free luggage storage before 1:30pm. €10 towel deposit. 30min. free internet per day on public computers. No Wi-Fi. 12-bed dorms €18-24; 7-bed €20-26; 6-bed €22-34; 4-bed €24-35. Reception 24hr.
LEGENDS HOSTEL
V. Curtatone 12
HOSTEL
06 44 70 32 17 www.legendshostel.com
This cramped but well-equipped hostel close to Termini brings in a mixed crowd of backpackers and older folk. There’s little common space, and rooms are fairly distant from one other (some in a separate building). However, the small kitchen gives the place a sense of community, especially during delicious breakfasts and pasta dinners. The friendly and low-key staff is ready to assist you during your stay in Rome. Shared bathrooms can be a bit messy, but at least they come with soap.
Termini. Walk up V. Marsala away from the station; turn right onto V. Gaeta and right onto V. Curtatone. Buzz and walk to 1st fl. Breakfast included; free pasta offered M-F 7pm. Lockers ensuite. 5hr. free Wi-Fi; €1 per hr. thereafter. Public computers at reception desk. Fans in rooms. 8-bed dorms €23-33; 6-bed €25-37; 5-bed €28-41; 4-bed €30-44. Triples €48-51; doubles €41-71. Reception 24hr.
FREEDOM TRAVELLER
V. Gaeta 23
HOSTEL
06 48 91 29 10 www.freedom-traveller.it
Freedom Traveller is a friendly and slightly less crowded hostel with the same great perks as nearby spots. Its sunny reception area and common spaces (TV room, backyard, and kitchen) immediately make you feel welcome. The first-floor location and proximity to Termini make it especially convenient for weary travelers. Free Wi-Fi is luxurious compared to most hostels that charge by the hour.
Termini. Take V. Marsala away from the station and turn right onto V. Gaeta. Free pizza and beer party Tu evenings. Free luggage storage until 2.30pm. All-female dorms available. Free Wi-Fi in common spaces and some rooms. 6- and 4-bed dorms €17-32; doubles €60-110; triples €75-135; quads €80-160. Reception 24hr. Lockout 10:30am-2pm (except for private rooms). Quiet hours 11pm-8am. Communal kitchen open until 10:30pm.
MOSAIC HOSTEL
V. Carlo Cattaneo
HOSTEL
06 44 70 4592 www.hostelmosaic.com
Right below the busier Alessandro, this similar hostel’s reception boasts a comfy leather couch, warmly painted walls, and a helpful staff that immediately fosters a sense of home. Rooms that feel less utilitarian than those of your typical hostel (despite the requisite bunks) provide everything you need for a comfortable stay in Rome.
Termini. Take V. Giovanni Giolitti and turn left onto V. C. Cattaneo. On the 2nd fl. Breakfast included; free pasta dinner M-F. Lockers ensuite; free luggage storage upon arrival. Towels €2. Kitchen access M-F. Female-only dorms available. Reserve online at least a week in advance. 30min. free Wi-Fi daily; €1 per hr. thereafter. 8-bed dorms €22; 6-bed €24; 5-bed €25; 4-bed €27. Reception 24hr.
CASA OLMATA
V. dell’Olmata 36
HOSTEL
06 48 30 19 www.casaolmata.com
This quiet, well-kept, and cheerfully-run hostel finds itself in a nicer region than most. Mixed 6-bed dorms, triples, doubles, and singles are a bit cramped, but wooden bunks and homey decorations (check out the old clocks and lace curtains in some rooms) provide a comfy, lived-in feel. Many rooms come with fully-equipped ensuite kitchens, TV, fans, and private bath; others have access to a communal kitchen down the hall with microwave and fridge. Definitely not a party hostel (quiet hours after midnight), but all the better for it.
Termini. Walk toward P. Santa Maggiore and down V. Paolina. Turn left onto W. Quattro Cantoni and left onto V. Olmata. Breakfast included. Lockers in hallway and ensuite. 15min. free internet per day at public computer. Roof terrace. Free Wi-Fi. Dorms €18-20; singles €38; doubles €56-58. Inquire about discounts for longer stays. Reception 8am-2pm and 4pm-midnight.
HOTEL PAPA GERMANO
V. Calatafimi 14/A
HOTEL
06 48 69 19 www.hotelpapagermano.com
Hopefully, Hotel Papa Germano’s tacky decor will make you smile rather than judge, for if you write this place off too swiftly, you’ll be missing out on its many great services. If the wallpaper doesn’t make you grin, maybe the especially friendly reception or free Wi-Fi will. The modest rooms’ TVs, A/C, and telephones make them good deals. If you’re not looking for a private room, the dormitory is an economical alternative that remains slightly nicer than hostel options.
Termini. Take V. Marsala away from the train station, proceed straight as it becomes V. Volturno, and turn right onto the small V. Calatafimi. Breakfast included. 3 public computers available. Dorms €15-30; singles €30-60; doubles €40-95, with bath €50-120; triples €50-100 /€60-140; quads €70-130/€80-150. Reception 7am-midnight.
BED AND BREAKFAST A CASA DI ZIA SERAFINA
V. Filippo Turati 107
B AND B
06 44 66 458 www.casaserafina.it
A gracious host welcomes you to her four furnished and immaculately kept rooms off the bright central hallway of her apartment at this intimate bed and breakfast. A great deal amid most of Termini’s less-than-charming accommodations, Signora Serafina’s rooms are equipped with Wi-Fi, TVs, A/C, and cheerful decor. Chambers without bathrooms have access to a sparkling clean one in the hallway. Homemade breakfast cooked each morning by the signora herself.
Termini. Walk down V. Ratazzi and turn left onto V. Filippo Turati. Buzz and proceed to 3rd fl. Call in advance to set up arrival time; key given to enter building and room. Doubles €70, with bath €80; triples €110.
AFFITTACAMERE ARIES
V. XX Settembre 58/A
HOTEL
06 42 02 71 61 www.affittacamerearies.com
The lovely owner might be reason enough to stay here—she’ll be happy to offer you coffee upon arrival. A bit removed from the Termini cluster, this charming hotel decorated with flowers and frescoes offers six simple but spacious rooms. The stone floors and metal-framed beds might not be the warmest and fuzziest things around, but the accommodating service, friendly dog (which sometimes follows the owner around), and great amenities make up for it.
Termini. Veer left toward P. della Repubblica, proceed onto V.V.E. Orlando, and turn right onto V. X X Settembre. Buzz and take Scala B to the 2nd fl. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €50; doubles €80; triples €105. Ask about a discount for longer stays. Guests are given a key to enter, but reception essentially 24hr.
SIGHTS
Do the sights of Rome even require an introduction? Like the extrovert who will shake your hand before you take your coat off, Rome’s famous destinations have no trouble making themselves known: interrupting, side-tracking, and dragging out your itinerary before you even get started, they seem to beckon from every street corner and piazza. Don’t worry—that’s a good thing. If they were anything less than spectacular, the gargantuan number of must-sees in Rome would feel burdensome. Luckily, they are spectacular and, luckily again, fairly concentrated within the city. You’ll run into about half of them by defaul
t. On your way to get gelato, for example, you’ll come across a fountain that looks, to put it mildly, vaguely familiar. The sights you won’t stumble upon while hunting for a good pizzeria can be tackled with a good pair of walking shoes, a whole lot of ambition, and an espresso to keep you going. Our suggestion: take at least one day without the guidebook or map and simply see where you end up. Chances are you’ll hit a lot of those “must-sees” without even trying.
Ancient City
COLOSSEUM
Bordered by V. di San Gregorio, V. Cello Vibenna, and V. N. Salvi
ANCIENT ROME
06 39 96 77 00
www.pierreci.it
A walk through the Colosseum provides an interesting mix of old and new—crumbling bricks and empty “cells” evoking the unfortunate ancients who once occupied them are juxtaposed against the vision of dozens of modern-day tourists who eagerly peer into the Colosseum’s arena, a formerly sandy pit in which bloody (and sometimes not so bloody) combat took place. For the best view of the arena, climb to the upper tiers, where you can see the structure in its entirety—a massive 188m by 156m oval. Looking down, you’ll get a feel for what it was like to witness the combats that took place in this amphitheater. This is famously the place where gladiators, men who were often slaves or prisoners but whose number once included an emperor, met for battle in the frenzy of the Roman games. Trained from the age of 17 and given rankings based on the number of fights they won, these combatants were seldom actually killed as they usually begged for mercy when defeat seemed imminent. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that massacre became the norm. Check out the detailed costume and weaponry exhibits in display cases on the upper level. If you want to see the gladiator armor on something other than a stuffed mannequin, consider getting your picture taken with one of the costumed dudes accosting middle-aged women around the concession stands out front (usually €5). While the arena takes center stage for most visitors, peer around the back side for a great view of the Arch of Constantine, the tree-lined V. San Gregorio, and the Roman Forum just across the way.