Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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B:Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum, 1 entrance per sight, used over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Guided tour €4; audio tour €4.50; video guide €5.50. All available in English. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset.
ARCO DI CONSTANTINE
V. San Gregorio, South of the Colosseum near the Palatine Hill entrance.
ANCIENT ROME, MONUMENT
Although most people only pass the Arch of Constantine on the way to the Colosseum or the Roman Forum across the street, its size and beauty are reason enough to seek it out. Towering an impressive 70 ft. over the V. San Gregorio, the arch stands in commemoration of Constantine’s victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312 CE. Despite the metal gates that prevent visitors from walking through the arch, those interested can take a closer look at the beautiful engravings and inscriptions depicting Constantine’s battles and victories that etch the structure. The Romans, who seem awfully good at “borrowing” things (check out the torn-away marble sections of the Colosseum), continued the tradition here, decorating the side of the arch with medallions stolen from other monuments nearby. Guess there’s something to be said for kleptomania after all.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Walk down V. San Gregorio from the Colosseum. Free.
ROMAN FORUM
ANCIENT ROME
A walk through the Roman Forum provides a pleasant (though somewhat bumpy) one-hour respite from the busy city just outside its gates, even if you don’t know a bit of its history or read a single plaque. Chances are, though, you didn’t pay €12 for a walk in the park. For that, try the Domus Aurea. To justify spending cash on ruins instead of gelato, consider picking up an audio tour that will at least clue you in to the history of a few of the sections you’ll pass. There isn’t much information posted along the way, so unless you’re enough of a Latin scholar to understand the original inscriptions, your map (provided at the ticket office) and audio tour are the only things helping you tell your templi from your basilicas.
The individual attractions are numerous, and you’ll pass them if you spend an hour or two walking around. Via Sacra, the oldest street in Rome, runs through the center of the Forum and will deliver you to most of the places you could want to go. To the right, you’ll find the remains of the Basilica Fulvia-Aemilia, originally built in 179 BCE by two Marcuses—Fulvius and Aemilius—but then renovated by the Aemilia family, perhaps as a mode of self-promotion. If you’re having trouble finding the basilica, that’s because it no longer exists—just the skeleton of a floor plan and some remains housed under a roof are still here. Step inside the Curia, originally the meeting place of the Senate, for a museum-like display of coins, columns, and recovered friezes that once decorated the basilica, including The Rape of the Sabine Women. Outside again, you’ll find the Temple of Saturn and the Basilica Julia flanking the sides of the central area. Duck into the tiny hut dedicated to Caesar, where flowers and photos add a bit of color to the dirt-covered area. Past a couple of temples, you’ll come to the Arch of Titus, built in 81 CE by Emperor Domitian to commemorate the victory over Jerusalem by his brother Titus. Although smaller than Constantine’s, Titus’ arch boasts a coffered archway and beautiful interior frieze depicting a hoard of horses, a menorah, and crowds of people after the victory that make it especially stunning. Further on, walk down the dirt paths of the Severan Horrea which are bordered by brick cell enclosures and excavation areas.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constantine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan’s column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. Entrance to the Forum is joint with that to the Palatine Hill, a neighboring site. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum, 1 entrance per sight, used over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour to the Forum €4, combined with the Palatine €6; available in English. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset.
tip!
Tickets to the Colosseum can be purchased at the Palatine Hill/Roman Forum entrance on V. San Gregorio. Head there midday, after the early morning frenzy, to avoid waiting in a 2hr. line at the Colosseum.
PALATINE HILL
ANCIENT ROME
The Palatine Hill, occupying the stretch of elevated land between V. dei Cerchi, V. di San Gregorio, and V. di San Teodoro, was once the place to live (even Cicero and Mark Antony had their homes here). Today, it consists mostly of grassy patches and ruined temples, though it still provides some of the best views of the city and the adjacent Roman Forum. At the very least, bring a camera, some water, and maybe a sandwich for a pleasant stroll through its grounds.
Entering at V. San Gregorio, you can either head right (which will lead you into the Roman Forum) or left (which will lead you to the Palatine Hill). The ascent up the hill is a bit steep and winding, but some convenient steps make getting to the top much easier and faster. On the left, you’ll find the Stadium and Severan Complex whose huge territory was once used as a riding school. Immediately onward is the Domus Augusatana. (Its lower floor is on the left, the upper on the right.) Cushioned between the domus’ remnants is the Palatine Museum, which houses a small collection of statues, tiles, busts, and other archaeological items from wealthy Roman households. (Open daily 8am-4pm, 30 people per fl., 20min. at a time. Free.) Next along your walk is the start of the Domus Flavia, a huge region which includes reception rooms, a peristyle, and the Nymphaeum, a space which houses an octagonal fountain that once covered the entire area and symbolized power but today is dried up. The Casa di Livia, sectioned between, was property of the Roman aristocracy during the first century BCE and today provides a welcome escape from the sun. Play a little “Theseus and the Minotaur” (a classic game for children circa 200 BCE), and walk through the surrounding labyrinth of dank tunnels containing placards that describe the area. The Casa di Augustus and the Casa di Romolo are immediately on the left, surrounded by tiny Romulean Huts. Most scenic of all are the Farnese Gardens, which offer an unparalleled vista of the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and Capitoline Hill. They’re also a good place to stop for a picnic (which some travelers supplement with oranges from one of the nearby trees). Descend the stairs to check out the Nymphaeum of the Rain, a small cave with running water.
B: Colosseo or Termini, then bus #75. Enter at V. San Gregorio (near the Arch of Constantine), V. dei Fori Imperiali (halfway between Trajan’s column and the Colosseum), or directly opposite the Colosseum. Next to the Roman Forum. Tickets are purchased for entrance to the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum, 1 entrance per sight, used over the course of 2 days. €12, EU students ages 18-24 €7.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour to the Palatine Hill €4, combined with the Forum €6, available in English. Open daily 8:30am until 1hr. before sunset.
FORI IMPERIALI
V. dei Fori Imperiali
ANCIENT ROME
06 67 97 702
Walking down V. dei Fori Imperiali, it’s impossible to miss—you guessed it—the Imperial Fora. Built in the 150 years after Caesar’s reign, the four fora located here marked a new period of Roman dominance that ushered in a return to Hellenistic architecture. The open area enclosed by a colonnade to sequester the center from the surrounding, urban activity was the place where the business of the forum took place. This central region used for government affairs was topped off by a small temple decorated with friezes and paintings commissioned by the day’s ruler to display his financial and political power. The first two fora were constructed by Caesar and Augustus, the next (christened the “Forum of Peace” to mark a calmer period in the empire’s history) by Vespasian, and the last (called the Forum of Nerva) by Domitian. Down the way, you’ll find the biggest forum of all, the Forum of Trajan, built bet
ween 107 and 113 CE.
In 1924, some of the land that once held the fora was paved over to make way for V. dei Fori’s modern-day, less-than-regal central thoroughfare. Although the grounds themselves have been closed to the public for years, you can still admire them from the sidewalk, pick up a map of them at the tourist office and give yourself a tour, or explore them on a guided tour.
From the Colosseum, walk down V. dei Fori Imperiali. Ruins are on the right. Call the tourist office above for more information. Free. Exhibition and info center open daily 9:30am-6:30pm.
DOMUS AUREA
Vle. della Domus Auerea 1 (Colle Oppio Gardens)
ANCIENT ROME, PARK
06 39 96 7700
The expansive grounds of Domus Aurea sit between the Colosseum and busy V. Merulana. Shallow hills, patches of grass, and small children’s playgrounds make a walk through this park a refreshing change of pace from the tourist crowds just next door. In the morning and early evening, the park is especially populated with dog walkers and joggers. Although you probably aren’t here to see any monuments (by now, you might be eager to escape them), make sure to check out the Trajan Baths, which lie near the V. delle Terme di Traiano.
From the Colosseum, walk down V. Terme di Tito. Park is on the right and continues until V. Merulana Free. Open daily 7am-9pm.
CHIESA DI SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI
P. di San Pietro in Vincoli, 4/a
CHURCH
06 97 84 49 50
Sitting atop a small hill just off V. Cavour, this fourth-century church houses Michelangelo’s famous statue of Moses. After gazing at the bigger-than-life sculpture, take some time to admire the brightly-colored fresco ceilings and meander through the clean, white colonnade.
From V. Cavour turn onto V. S. Francis di Pacia and walk down V. Eudossiana. The church is on the left. Fully covered legs and shoulders required. Free. Open daily 8am-12:30pm, 3-6pm.
CIRCUS MAXIMUS
ANCIENT ROME
It’s only logical to pay a visit to the Circus Maximus after a long tour of the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill. While only a shadow of what it used to be, the Circus Maximus rounds out the key sights of your tour through Ancient Rome. At the end of V. di San Gregorio (near the P. di Porta Capena), this grassy plot of land was once Rome’s largest stadium, home to more than 300,000 screaming Romans who came to watch the chariot races. Now, the fields only reach similar volumes during summer concerts and city celebrations, scheduled on a monthly basis.
B: Circo Massimo or bus #118. Free.
CAPITOLINE HILL
PIAZZA, MUSEUM
Rome’s small but magnificent capital sits nestled between the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II (a massive white building resembling a tiered wedding cake) and the Roman Forum. From both these sights, views of the little Capitoline Hill are hard to miss. Coming up V. Arco di Settimio at the backside of the hill, you’ll arrive at the Piazza di Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in 1536. At the center of the piazza sits an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. It’s actually a replica of the original, which you can view in a weatherproof chamber located in the Palazzo Nuovo. Still, this oft-photographed bronze statue is an impressive monument to one of Rome’s more philosophically-inclined emperors. Piazza di Campidoglio is ringed by the Capitoline Museums, which hold a treasure trove of Roman and Greek sculpture as well as the oldest public collection of ancient art in the world. If you instead arrive at the piazza from V. del Teatro Marcello, you will be forced to climb a somewhat awkwardly slanted staircase. But get ready to be greeted by two symmetrical (and seductive) stone statues of Castor and Pollux on their horses.
From V. dei Fori Imperiali, veer left towards the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II. Turn onto V. Teatro Marcello and head uphill Capitoline Museums €6.50, EU students 18-25 €4.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour €5. Available in English. Capitoline Museums open Tu-Su 9am-8pm. Ticket office closes 1hr. before museums close.
Centro Storico
The Centro Storico abounds with sights that are as quintessentially Roman as pasta is Italian. Luckily, you won’t have to pay or wait in line to see many of them, and their close proximity to one another makes it possible to visit all these sights in one rewarding afternoon.
PANTHEON
P. della Rotunda
ANCIENT ROME
06 68 30 02 30
Even without looking at your map, you’re bound to stumble upon the Pantheon as you wander through the Centro Storico: signs pointing the way and crowds hovering outside will indicate that something great is coming. Corinthian columns and the large pediment atop give the edifice, which is currently under construction, the look of a Greek temple. An impressive 20 tons each, the bronze doors (originally plated in gold) leading into the Pantheon are enough to make visitors feel miniscule. Inside, the circular building is full of people craning their necks to admire the perfect hemispherical dome (142 ft. in diameter and height) which, until Brunelleschi’s Duomo in Florence, was the largest in the world. If you ever thought concrete was a poor man’s material, think again. A mix of pumice, ash, sand, water, and chemical solidifiers, this material made the dome’s casting possible by providing a viable alternative to the heavier stone blocks typically used. The coffered ceiling looks almost modern in form—a true geometrical abstraction—especially in contrast to the more traditional frescoes around it. Consider that the Pantheon’s only source of light is the 27 ft. oculus at its center: over the course of the day, the beam of sun shining through it slowly moves along the temple’s beautiful marble floor. (The best time to come, nevertheless, is on a rainy day, when water droplets flow directly through the central ring.) Notable for the architectural accomplishment of its design alone, the Pantheon is also a significant reflection of religious tolerance, dedicated to every god (of Ancient Rome, that is).
From P. Navona, follow signs for the Pantheon toward V. della Dogana Vecchia. Free. Open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-6pm.
CAMPO DEI FIORI
Between P. Farnese and C. Vittorio Emmanuele
PIAZZA
Cushioned between stately Palazzo Farnese one block away and the busy C. Vittorio Emanuele, Campo dei Fiori is an enclosed world of its own where students, merchants, nighttime revelers, and performers make it their home. At its center, the somewhat ominous statue of a cloaked Giordano Bruno towers above the crowds. Aside from his imposing figure, street mimes clad in ridiculous garb are the only other even remotely statuesque shapes around. During the day, check out the market where merchants sell everything from fish to fresh produce to alcohol to clothes ( Open M-Sa 7am-2:30pm). At night, the Campo is literally abuzz with the chatter of diners, while the clink of wine glasses and the thumping of a few disco-like clubs add to the jocular clatter of this happening center for city life.
From P. Navona, head towards C. Vittorio Emanuele and cut straight across to Campo dei Fiori. Watch your valuables at night. Free.
PIAZZA NAVONA
Surrounded by V. di Santa Maria dell’Anima and C. del Rinascimento.
PIAZZA
One of Rome’s most picturesque piazze, Navona is right up there with the Colosseum and the Vatican in tourist popularity. Luckily for visitors, there’s neither a 4hr. line nor a hefty admission price. Rather, the oval arena, originally a stadium built by Domitian in 86 CE, is full of tourists snapping pretty pictures, mimes performing at either end, artists selling trite watercolors, and musicians playing what sounds like the soundtrack of a Frank Sinatra film. This scene makes everything you heard about “classic Italy” seem true. Weave your way through the crowds—even grab a seat if you can—to take a closer look at Bernini’s magnificent Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, a massive stone sculpture that depicts four river gods, each representing a continent. Flanking it, the less spectular Fontana di Nettuno and Fontana del Moro draw significantly smaller crowds but provide good spots to take a seat and view the scene from afar.