Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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B: Basilica San Paolo, or bus #23 to Ostiense/LGT S. Paolo stop. Basilica free. Cloister €4. Basilica open daily 7am-6:30pm.
BASILICA DI SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO
P. San Giovanni in Laterano 4
CHURCH
06 69 88 64 33
Practically off the radar in central Rome, San Giovanni in Laterano is hardly something to be overlooked. Before St. Peter’s became such a hot spot, this massive basilica was the home of the papacy. Big windows and a white mosaic floor make the nave feel lighter than that of St. Peter’s (though the lack of huge crowds also helps). The dynamic statues of apostles glaring down from their elevated position make you feel just as small and inconsequential, however.
A: San Giovanni or bus #16 from Termini. Basilica free. Cloister €2, students €1. Museo della Basilica €1. Basilica open daily 7am-6:30pm. Cloister open daily 9am-6pm. Museo della Basilica open M-F 9:30am-6:15pm, Sa 9:30am-6pm.
CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI
V. Ostiense 106
MUSEUM
06 42 88 88 88 www.centralmontemartini.org
You might have believed that central Rome is the place for seeing old ruins juxtaposed against modern constructions, but the Eternal City is nothing compared to this museum. A relatively new addition to the Musei Capitolini family, this building—the first public electricity plant in the city—now houses an impressive collection of Roman statues, busts, and mosaics excavated during the early 1800s.
B: Ostiense. A 10min. walk down the V. Ostiense. €4.50, EU students 18-25 €2.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Combined ticket with Musei Capitolini €8.50/6.50. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm.
DOMINE QUO VADIS?
At the intersection of V. Appia Antica and V. Ardeatina.
CHURCH
06 51 20 441 www.catacombe.org
Even its questioning name reflects the speculation that surrounds this tiny church on the Appian Way. Supposedly, Christ’s footprints are set in stone up the middle aisle, though San Sebastiano down the way claims the same novelty. The church’s name (“Lord, where are you going?”) derives from the question St. Peter asked Christ when he feared the Lord was fleeing Rome. Though speculation surrounds the footprints, the tourist office’s brochures indicate that this church is winning the debate.
Bus #218. Free. Open in summer M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, Su 8:15am-7:40pm; in winter M-Sa 8am-6:30pm, Su 8:15am-6:45pm.
FOOD
If Italy is the king of fine food, then Rome is its crown jewel. The sheer number of trattorias, cafes, alimentari (local grocery stores), osterie, tavole calde (cafeterias), pizzerias, and gelaterie is enough reason to be overwhelmed without even picking up your fork. With so many options, it’s tempting to simply settle for the most convenient—but don’t. Always head away from the blocks immediately surrounding major sights: food here is overpriced and usually not well made. Avoid “tourist menus” with bright photos illustrating the plates and English translations. Restaurants with nonstop hours (no midday closing) are often those that cater to tourists rather than locals.
Ancient City
It’s a shame that eating’s necessary. Well, not really, but since everyone has to do it—and nearly everyone in Rome comes to the Ancient City—restaurants in this region are often overcrowded and overpriced. For the best deals, avoid places closest to the sights and meander down some of the quieter streets.
PIZZERIA DA MILVIO
V. dei Serpenti 7
PIZZERIA
06 48 93 01 45
A sign that reads, “40 Types of Pizze e Pane,” hangs above this pizzeria’s bright red walls, a little reminder to passersby that this is the spot for variety, convenience, and flavor. Architecture students crowd the casual stools in back for simple primi like pomodoro con riso (€5) and secondi (€6) served from hot trays. Up front, the friendly servers cut dozens of thin-crust pizzas into slices sold by the ounce. Be ready to eat on the go; lunch is the busiest hour.
From V. Cavour, turn onto V. dei Serpenti and walk 2min. Primi €5; secondi €6. Pizza €0.80-1. 40 per etto. Open daily 7am-midnight.
LA CUCCUMA
V. Merulana 221
RISTORANTE
06 77 20 13 61
Even if you’re not sitting at their outdoor tables, La Cuccuma’s warmly colored walls, arched ceilings, and airy interior will make you feel like you’re in the warm Roman sun. The €9 fixed meal (primi, secondi, contorni, and bread) is hard-to-beat with huge portions. Still, this restaurant threatens to outdo itself, selling thin-crust pizza by the kilo to hungry students looking for a meal on the go. Generous slices loaded with toppings will set you back less than €4.
A: Vittorio Emanuele. Walk down V. d Statuto, and turn right onto V. Merulana. Pizza €8-12. 90 per kg. Open daily 11am-midnight.
ANTICA BIRRERIA PERONI
V. San Marcello 19
RISTORANTE, DELI
06 67 95 310 www.anticabirreriaperoni.net
Pizza and panini may abound in Rome, but far harder to come by are the German-Italian plates Antica Birreria Peroni has been making for over 100 years. This popular establishment’s tiny interior feels a bit like an old-fashioned candy shop—albeit, a candy shop filled with adults instead of children and beer instead of sweets. It is constantly teeming with customers ordering takeout plates like grilled pork sausage (€4) or the smoked pork with sauerkraut (€10). Four types of beer on tap go for as little as €3 to wash down the wurstel (€6.50-13). Be ready to stand or scramble for one of the few stools at the bar.
From the Vittorio Emanuele monument, turn right on V. Cesare Battisti, left into P. dei Santissimi Apostoli, and walk 2 blocks down. Primi €5-7; secondi €4-19. Buffet €3.50-6.50. Open M-Sa noon-midnight.
LA TAVERNA DA TONINO E LUCIA
V. Madonna dei Monti 79
RISTORANTE
06 47 45 325
You’ll feel like you’re in some Italian madre’s home as soon as you walk into this local favorite: mouthwatering aromas, a view into the kitchen, and a cork-lined wall full of pictures and lights give La Taverna da Tonino e Lucia its cozy feel. Tight quarters may just have you becoming amico with your neighbors at the next table by meal’s end, but that’s par for the course here where the regulars already know each other. The small menu’s limited selection is actually a blessing in disguise—the plates are so good that a bigger selection might make choosing impossible. Try the veal rolls with tomato sauce or the specially recommended paglia ai funghi.
B: Cavour. Walk down V. Cavour towards the Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. dei Serpenti and left onto V. Madonna dei Monti. Primi €8; secondi €9-13. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm.
LA CARBONARA
V. Panisperna 214
RISTORANTE
06 48 25 176 www.lacarbonara.it
The wall of handwritten comments and the massive collection of wine corks beside it should give you an idea of how long this standby has been around (try over 100 years). Despite its history and fame, La Carbonara has remained well priced and down to earth—just read some of the comments made by customers and family members as you gobble down classics like carciofio alla giulia (fried artichoke) and cacio e pepe (cheese and peppers). If you like what you get (and you surely will), don’t hesitate to scribble your own sweet nothings on the wall. Just try to compose something a bit more poetic than the graffiti on your hostel bunk bed.
From S. Maria Maggiore, walk 5min. down V. Panisperna. Primi €6-9; secondi €9-15. Open M-Sa 12:30pm-2:30pm and 7pm-11pm.
IL GELATONE
V. dei Serpenti 28
GELATERIA
06 48 20 187
Il Gelatone deserves every bit of its name: the suffix “one,” which means big, translates to plentiful scoops and an expansive selection of flavors. Twenty-eight types of sorbet, more than 30 creamier gelati, and four flavors of yogurt make ordering hard—it’s a good thing even small cones (€2) come with a choice of three flavors. To make matters better (or worse, if you have a hard time making up
your mind), you can top off your frosty delight with anything from meringue to pistachio to fresh fruit, whipped cream, and chocolate.
From the Fori Imperiali, walk up V. Cavour and make a left onto V. dei Serpenti. Cones or cups €2-4. Open daily 10am-10pm.
HOSTARIA I BUONI AMICI
V. Aleardo Aleardi
RISTORANTE
06 70 49 19 93
Hand-decorated plates, countless bottles of wine, and quirky paintings line the walls of this tightly-packed, locally loved spot where buoni amici do indeed come to dine and drink. The plaid-covered tables are small, but the servings are large; pasta plates like bucatini with bacon, cheese, and chili are hot in more ways than one (€7).
B: Colosseo. From the Colosseum, take V. Labicana; then take a right on V. Merulana and a left on V. Aleardo Aleardi. Primi €7-8; secondi €7-12. Open M-Sa 12:30-4pm and 7:15pm-midnight.
Centro Storico
Catering to hungry tourists, food in the Centro Storico tends to be overpriced. Your best bet for a quick meal is to head to a panificio, pasticerria, or pizzeria and eat your grub in a nearby piazza. For a sit-down meal, try to wander down narrow and out-of-the way streets rather than stay in more central regions.
DAR FILETTARO A SANTA BARBARA
Largo dei Librari 88
FISH
06 68 64 018
We’re glad that some places never change. Despite its fame and hordes of customers—families and fancily clad couples alike—Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara has remained reliably excellent. The piazza fills with the sound of chatter from those who dine and those in line. It won’t be hard to make an order: the one-sheet menu features only salad, antipasti, and the classic fried cod fillet. Plus, nearly everything is €5, so feel free to leave your calculator at home.
From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto the tiny Largo dei Librari. Salads, antipasti, and fried fish €5. Desserts €0.50-3.50. Beer €2.50-4.50. Open M-Sa 5:30-11:30pm.
FORNO MARCO ROSCIOLI
V. dei Chiavari
BAKERY
06 68 64 045 www.anticofornoroscioli.com
If you can find a stool at this bakery, grocery, and fresh food “deli,” grab it or else you’ll be forced to eat standing at one of the beer barrel tables outside (which frankly, isn’t too bad of an option). Most people grab a slice of something to go—a strip of thin-crust pizza or kranz, a flaky, twisted roll with almonds and raisins. But the best deals are Forno’s fresh plates of primi, like its cold rice salad and hot tomato gnocchi, which customers order at the counter according to portion size as they stealthily nab one of the coveted stools. At only €5-7 a plate, this Forno’s prices beat those of any restaurant around.
From Campo di Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto V. dei Chiavari. Primi €5-7. Pizza €9.50-18 per kg. Strudel €1.80 per etto. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.
GELATERIA DEL TEATRO
V. di San Simone 70
GELATERIA
06 45 47 880
Ever wondered what makes Italian gelato so darn good? Well, much like Willy Wonka, the friendly owners here offer customers a peek into the magic makings of their product—and it really is a teatro-tastic experience watching fruit and milk get churned into creamy perfection. The result of Gelateria Del Teatro’s alchemy? Over 40 flavors of truly unique gelato, and the owners pride themselves on individually developing each one.
From P. Navona, turn left onto V. dei Coronari and look for the tiny V. di San Simone on the left. Free tours offered for groups; call (or unwrap a golden ticket) to reserve a spot. Credit cards €20 min. purchase. Cones and cups €2-8. Open daily noon-midnight.
PIZZERIA DA BAFFETTO
V. del Governo Vecchio 114
PIZZERIA
06 68 61 617
At Pizzeria da Baffetto, the doors stay sealed and the menu stays hidden until the server lets you in. When the doors do open, a cloud of warm, pizza-infused air slips out to tempt the many eager patrons waiting in line. The service here may be brusque, but that’s because they need a Soup-Nazi demeanor to control the crowds waiting for a table. This pizzeria cooks up some of the best pizza in the city, served in a no-frills, packed dining room.
From P. Navona, exit onto P. Pasquina and continue as it becomes V. del Governo Vecchio. Long waits and no reservations; arrive early if you want a table. Pizza €5-9. Open M-W 6:30pm-12:30am, Th-Su 6:30pm-12:30am.
CUL DE SAC
P. Pasquino 73
RISTORANTE
06 68 80 10 94
When it’s so close to Rome’s most famous piazza (P. Navona, if you weren’t sure), it’s surprising that Cul de Sac’s fresh mix of international flavors is the only touristy thing about the place. Though Roman classics abound, the “international thing” seems to be catching: try the escargots alla bourguignonne (€6.60), an order of babaghanuush (€6.20), or a cup of hot chocolate made with cocoa from Ghana, Ecuador, Venezuela, and Trinidad. The cool marble bar up front is surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles to pair with the dishes on the diverse menu (written in four languages). Wooden benches and the vine-decorated walls and floors create a laid-back, picnic feel.
From P. Navona, walk onto P. Pasquino. Primi €7.10-8.90; secondi €6.70-9.80. Desserts €4.30. Open daily noon-4pm and 6pm-12:30am.
Piazza Di Spagna
Between Prada, the Spanish Steps, and the teems of tourists frequenting both, it might be hard to find a tasty and economical bite midday. For lunch, try heading to panifici (bakeries) or pizzerias and eating on the piazze. For dinner, veer onto smaller streets for better quality and service, even if it will cost you a bit more.
GUSTO
V. della Frezza 23 and P. Augusto Imperatore 9
RISTORANTE, BAR
06 32 26 273 www.gusto.it
The difference between good taste and bad is as clear as black and white—and by taste we mean flavor and style. Black-clad waiters whisk around Gusto’s white, brick interior that’s divided between a wine lounge and a sit-down restaurant opening onto P. Augusto Imperatore. Tall mirrors make the place feel even bigger than it is, but petite tables near the bar bring it back to life-size for you and your date. On the piazza side of things, your best bet is one of the stellar pizzas cranked out of their open brick oven. The real action (and the best deal), however, is to be found at the bar during nightly happy hours: Gusto’s buffet of gourmet treats like vegetable couscous and curious black-bread tramezzini is better than a sit-down meal. If it weren’t for the accompanying cocktails, you’d swear your mom was feeding you right out of her kitchen.
Directly across from Mausoleo Augusto on the piazza or, from P. del Popolo, exit onto V. di Ripetta and turn left onto V. della Frezza. Happy hour buffet with drink €10. Primi €10; secondi €10-18.50. Pizza €6-9.50. Beer €3-5.50. Wine €4.50-12. Cocktails €9. Open daily 10am-2am. Happy hour daily 6-9pm.
FRASCHETTERIA BRUNETTI
V. Angelo Brunetti 25b
RISTORANTE
06 32 14 103 www.fraschetteriabrunetti.it
Save your messiness for a melting gelato after dinner—there’ll be no greasy pizza fingers or spaghetti mishaps here. Instead, Fraschetteria Brunetti focuses primarily on baked pasta dishes, including 11 types of lasagna in varieties that you won’t find anywhere else: try the rich gorgonzola and walnut. Covered in handwritten notes from loyal patrons, this place is legit, managing to avoid jacked-up prices and watered-down cuisine despite its proximity to the sights.
A: Flaminio. From P. del Popolo, exit onto V. di Ripetta and turn right onto V. Angelo Brunetti. Fixed lunch of entree, coffee, and drink €7.50. Primi €8. Panini €3.50. Cocktails €4. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, but may close earlier or later depending on the crowd.
CAMBI
V. del Leoncino 30
PIZZERIA, BAKERY
06 68 78 081
Better than a cheapo pizzeria and cheaper than a sit-down restaurant. The mix of salty and sweet scents perfuming the area has most folks starting wi
th a loaded slice of pizza and following it up with a €1 fruit torte. But don’t overlook their real specialties: unleavened bread (hard bread lightly doused in oil) and crostata (cookies filled with chocolate or fruit). When you see tourists paying three times the price down the street, your meal will taste even better.
From Ara Pacis/Mausoleo Augusto, walk down V. Tomacelli and turn right onto V. Leoncino. No seating. Only vegetable oil used. Also sells basic groceries. Cookies €0.80, €33 per kg. Panini €3.50. Pizza €7.50-15 per kg. Crostatine €11. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.