Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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BAR SAN MARCELLO
V. D. San Marcello 37-8
CAFE
06 69 92 33 15
Don’t let the curt service turn you off from this small tavola calda, a lunchtime favorite among local workers. The ratio of Italians to tourists means you won’t hear much English as you munch on fresh pasta salads, grilled fish, or panini. Take advantage of the linguistic discrepancy: with the Trevi Fountain right around the corner, you can easily get your full share of English chatter for the day just a short walk away.
From Palazzo Venezia, take V. del Corso; turn right onto V. S.S. Apostoli and left onto V. D. San Marcello. Takeout available. Limited seating in back. Panini €3.50-4. Primi €4-5. Open daily 6am-5:30pm.
FIASCHETTERIA BELTRAMME
V. della Croce 39
RISTORANTE
When a restaurant has managed to limit its menu to one page and survive for over 100 years without a phone, you know it’s doing something right. Don’t expect creative culinary concoctions but classic dishes made with family love. Their cacio e pepe might be some of the best in the neighborhood, and locals will let you know it when you end up sitting next to them in the restaurant’s close quarters. We’re glad that despite the modern fashion flash surrounding it, this traditional standby hasn’t changed.
A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, take V. Condotti; turn right onto V. Belsiana and right onto V. delle Croce. Primi €10; secondi €15-18; verdure and contorni €6-10. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
NATURIST CLUB
V. della Vita 14, 4th fl.
RISTORANTE, VEGETARIAN
06 67 92 509
Like its street name, this restaurant is all about “la vita”—that is, saving a few vite by serving up an entirely macrobiotic menu. Climb up four well worn flights of stairs (which might be part of the health kick) to enjoy totally atypical Roman fare like ravioli stuffed with creamy tofu and pesto (€8) or seitan escalope with grilled vegetables (€9). Despite their exotic twists, dishes here taste like they might have been made at any one of the trattorias down the street. Those skeptical of macrobiotic food might find that this place changes their mind.
Directly off V. del Corso around P. San Lorenzo in Lucina; turn right onto V. della Vita from V. del Corso and look for #14. Buzz and walk to 4th fl. 90% organic and totally macrobiotic; fish is the only non-vegetarian option. Primi €8-9; secondi €9-11. Fixed vegetarian meal €14; lunch/dinner combo €8-10/€20-25. Organic wine €12-16 per bottle. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7-10:30pm.
Jewish Ghetto
Though the Jewish Ghetto is one of the smaller neighborhoods in Rome, it is rich in fine cuisine and character. Most restaurants are on V. del Portico d’Ottavia, and while not exactly cheap, they are a great alternative to classic Italian fare if that’s all you’ve been eating. Most are kosher and closed early Friday through Saturday.
ANTICO FORNO DEL GHETTO
P. Costaguti 31
BAKERY, GROCERY
06 68 80 30 12
You don’t have to resort to a slice of pizza in order to avoid the overpriced plates of a sit-down restaurant: grab a loaf of to-die-for bread, a few slices of smoked meat, and a hunk of cheese at this family-run neighborhood staple instead. Locals flock to the small store to buy anything from fresh pasta to cookies and milk to a hot slice of flatbread or focaccia topped with veggies.
From Ponte Garibaldi, walk down V. Arenula, turn right onto V. S. Maria d. Pianto and into P. Costaguti. Only pizza and bread guaranteed kosher. Cheese, bread, cookies, and meat sold by lb. Pizza and focaccia €1.20-2 per piece, €7.70-9.70 per kg. Open M-F 7:45am-2:30pm and 5-8pm, Sa-Su 7:45am-1pm.
LA TAVERNA DEL GHETTO
V. del Portico d’Ottavia 7/b-8
KOSHER
06 68 80 97 71 www.latavernadelghetto.com
The small dining area out front might have you thinking that this is an intimate cafe with Middle Eastern music and delicious food to match. But head around the block, and you’ll see that this popular spot opens up into an expansive dining space that can play host to bigger parties and more festive dining. The first kosher restaurant in Rome, La Taverna del Ghetto is an expert in the classics: bacala (fried catfish), fiori di zucca, and any variation of artichoke. Soy-based desserts are dairy-free and pleasantly mild after an otherwise heavy meal.
From Teatro Marcello, walk down V. del Piscaro and veer right as it becomes V. del Portico d’Ottavia. Strictly kosher. Primi €11.50; secondi €15.90-19.50. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F noon-4pm, Sa 9-11pm, Su noon-11pm.
PASTICCERIA BOCCIONE LIMENTANI
V. Portico D’Ottavio 1
BAKERY
06 68 78 637
This tiny, unadorned pasticceria doesn’t need the cuteness factor to promote itself: its small assortment of baked goods is strong enough to bring customers running, no advertisements needed. Only about four products are made here—freshly baked tortes and a range of biscottini with nuts and fruits—so all you have to do is know what you want, order, and enjoy.
Right on the corner of V. Portico D’Ottavio; look for numbers, as it’s practically unmarked. Cookies around €18 per kg. Tortes €18-22 each. Open M-Th 7:30am-7:30pm, F 7:30am-3:30pm, Su 7:30am-7:30pm.
KOHSER BISTROT CAFE
V. Santa Maria del Pianto 68/69
CAFE, KOSHER
06 68 64 398
This cheerful and brightly lit cafe doubles as an early evening spot for cocktails and an anytime spot for delicious kosher food. Picnic-like wooden tables on the street are often full of locals munching on finger food with their wine or enjoying fuller plates like curry chicken with artichokes. The modern interior has a full bar and a few shelves with packaged food items for sale.
From Ponte Garibaldi, walk up V. Arenula and turn right onto V. Santa Maria del Pianto. Primi €9-11; secondi €8-9. Beer and wine €6-7. Cocktails €7-8. Open M-Th 9am-9pm, F 9am-sundown, Su 9am-9pm. Aperitivo happy hour 5-9pm.
Vatican City
The longest line in Rome eventually becomes a hungry crowd. The selection of neighborhood trattorias and small stores that lines the quieter streets outside the Vatican walls won’t disappoint, but the bright English menus and beckoning waiters closer to the museums will.
CACIO E PEPE
V. Avezzana 11
RISTORANTE
06 32 17 268 www.cacioepeperistorante.com
If you’re in the area (and by that, we mean as far as 1 mi. away), it will be well worth your time to trek to this true trattoria. Welcoming owner Gianni will personally seat you and make sure your cacio e pepe (fresh egg pasta topped with oil, grated cheese, and black pepper) is everything it should be: big, flavorful, and perfectly al dente. Its popularity with locals instead of tourists has kept the vibe casual and the service as good as the food...and that’s saying a lot.
A: Lepanto. From Metro, walk up V. Lepanto (away from the Vatican), turn right on Vle. delle Millizie and left onto V. Avezzana, a 5min. walk. Primi €8; secondi €9-10. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm, Sa 12:30-3pm.
OLD BRIDGE GELATERIA
V. Bastioni di Michelangelo 3/5
GELATERIA
06 38 72 30 26 www.gelateriaoldbridge.com
Gelato so sinfully good you might need to visit the Vatican just to confess it. Despite being practically on the doorstep of the most touristed sight in the city, this hole-in-the wall gelateria has thankfully remained just that. It’s tiny and unadorned yet amazingly good. Beware: lines may rival those of the Vatican, but the size of your order (huge) will make the wait worthwhile.
Off P. Risorgimento and across the street from the line to the Vatican Museums. Cones €1.50-3; cups €3-4. Open M 3pm-2am, Tu-Su 9am-2am.
FA BIO
V. Germanico 43
CAFE, ORGANIC
06 64 52 58 10 www.fa-bio.com
If you’re going to pay €4 for a panini, it might as well be organic, right? And if all that pizza and gelato have you craving something green, then Fa Bio will be your Eden. Jus
t walking in, you’ll be refreshed by the smell of blended smoothies and fresh salads alone. Organic pie (€1.50), hearty tofu salads (€4.50), and bread that is, for once, not white are enough to sustain you for a heavy afternoon of sightseeing. If you still need a pick-me-up after the 4hr. waits, re-energize with “L’energizzante,” a potent shake of milk, pear, ginger, and cacao.
A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano and turn left onto V. Germanico. All food organic. Panini €4. Salads €4.50. Cookies €0.50-1. Fruit juices and smoothies €3.50. Open in summer M-Sa 9am-8pm; in winter M-Sa 9am-5pm.
FABBRICA MARRONS GLACES GIULIANI
V. Paolo Emilio 67
CIOCCOLATERIA
06 32 43 548 www.marronglaces.it
This is the kind of place you visit first for yourself, second to do some gift-shopping for friends back home, and third...for yourself again. The shop’s old school ’40s feel adds to the delight of ordering your sweet confections from the family owners. Their specialties—marron glacés (candied chestnuts) and chocolate—are the perfect match of sweet and rich. Though they might not make a boxed trip home to your folks, the candied fruits are stellar—shiny and big as crown jewels.
A: Lepanto. Take Vle. Giulio Cesare toward the Vatican and turn left onto V. Paolo Emilio.
Marron Glacés €3.50 per etto (100g). Candied fruit €4.50 per etto. Chocolates €4.50 per etto. Open in summer M-Sa 8:30am-1pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; in winter M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9am-1pm.
WINE BAR DE’ PENITENZIERI
V. dei Penitenzieri 16/A
CAFE, BAR
06 68 75 350
Before hitting the inescapable nest of pizzerias surrounding the Vatican, grab a bite at this small but hugely popular lunch spot. The stand-up bar makes it easy to munch on a panino (€4-5) and sip your cappuccino (€0.90-2.50) without having to pay for table service. A rotating list of classics—mostly pastas and salads—is reserved for those who nab a seat in the adjoining room. If you don’t want real sustenance, have a cocktail instead. Hey, you’re not in St. Peter’s yet.
From St. Peter’s, take V. della Conciliazione toward the river, turn right onto V. dei Cavalieri del San Sepolcro, and keep straight as it becomes V. Penitenzieri. Primi and meat-and-cheese plates €10. Panini €4-5. Beer €3-4.50. Wine €3.50-4. Cocktails €6. Open M-Sa 6am-8:30pm.
L’ARCHETTO
V. Germanico 105
PIZZERIA
06 32 31 163
Tired of the same old pizza toppings and overpriced slices? Order one in the round from a menu that trumps the regular list. Try L’Archetto’s namesake speciality with cooked mozzarella, arugula, sausage, and peppers or, for a smaller bite, an order of bruschetta (€1.50-2.80). Though the setting might not be anything special, their lunch special—€8 primo with a choice of soup—makes the pizzeria popular with the economically minded and hungry midday crowd.
A: Ottaviano. Walk V. Ottaviano toward the Vatican and turn left onto V. Germanico. Primi served only at lunch. Bruschettas €1.50-2.80. Pizza €3.50-8. Primi with soup €8. Open daily 12:30-3pm and 7pm-midnight.
Trastevere
There are plenty of dining options in Trastevere, whether you want a luxurious sit-down meal, a bite on the go, or something in between. While the piazze are full of great choices, explore smaller side streets for some of the harder-to-find gems.
LA RENELLA
V. del Politeama 27
PIZZERIA, BAKERY
06 58 17 265
La Renella is as close to a true neighborhood eatery as you’re likely to find, with locals coming here at all hours of the day for everything from their morning bread to lunchtime pizza to after-dinner cookies. The handwritten menu looks like it hasn’t changed for years, but with Roman classics like the fiori di zucchini (huge orange petals topped with anchovies and cheese), why should it?
From P. Trilussa, walk down V. della Renella; the front entrance is here, but there’s also a back entrance on V. del Politeama. Pizza €5-12 per kg, sweet tortes and crostate €10-18 per kg, biscotti €10-16 per kg. Open daily 7am-10pm (closing time can vary).
SIVEN
V. San Francesco a Ripa 137
PIZZERIA, DELI
06 58 97 110
There’s hardly a moment of the day when someone isn’t entering or exiting this tiny spot, where cheap pizza and hot pasta primi are sold by weight. Lasagna, gnocchi, eggplant parmigiano, and calzones would make meals on their own, but most people come away with a few slices of thin-crust pizza, loaded with all the standards—think zucchini, potatoes, mushrooms, or steak. There’s nowhere to sit and the service is fast, so be ready to eat on the go. And make sure you know what you want, or you’ll just get in the way of the regulars behind you.
From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa. Pasta €0.75-0.80 per etto. Calzones €2.50. Pizza €1-1.30 per etto. Open M-Sa 9am-10pm.
LE FATE
Vle. Trastevere 130
RISTORANTE
06 58 00 971 www.lefaterestaurant.it
Inspired by the fable of Aurora, this festive restaurant has taken on the themes of love and solidarity in both its ambience and the quality of its food. The warmly lit dining area has the feel of a woodland cottage, with a bookshelf of cookbooks in the corner, twinkling star lights, and a string of vines covering the wall. All ingredients come from Lazio, so you can expect especially fresh plates; the homemade gnocchi with steak, cream, spinach, and ricotta is as rich in flavor as Princess Aurora was in gold. Students who aren’t blessed with riches like the fairytale heroine should take advantage of the €10 meal, complete with bruschetta, pasta, dessert, and a glass of wine. Just say the magic word (or show your student ID).
About 15min. down Vle. Trastevere from P. G. Belli. Free Wi-Fi. Inquire about cooking classes and apartment rentals for students. Primi €10-13; secondi €12-25. Open daily 6-11pm.
PIZZERIA DA SIMONE
V. Giacinto Carini 50
PIZZERIA, DELI
06 58 14 980
After a long trek up to Ponte Acqua Paola and the surrounding gardens, there’s no better way to replenish yourself than with a hot slice of Da Simone’s pizza. Pies topped with anything from shrimp to the more classic sundried tomatos and mozzarella di bufala go for about €1.50-4 per slice. Down the counter, you’ll find freshly-made pasta dishes, steamed vegetables (€12-16.90 per kg),and huge legs of chicken (€3) that are filling enough to be a complete dinner. If you’re hoping to grab dinner here, be ready to take your food and make a picnic of it in the park, as there’s no seating.
From the Porta San Pancrazio on Giancolo Hill, walk downhill on V. Giancinto Carini for about 7min. Pizza €6.96-16.90 per kg. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.
CASETTA DI TRASTEVERE
P. de Renzi, 31/32
RISTORANTE
06 58 00 158
Inside is like outside at this budget-friendly restaurant. A hanging clothesline, painted Italian facade, and terra-cotta rooftop transform the spatious interior of Casetta di Trastevere into just what its name implies—a casetta, or little house. Upstairs, a banquet-sized table serves especially large groups, but downstairs, smaller clusters of students consistently fill the tables. With the cheapest pizza in town (marinara pie €3), this little house is a very, very, very fine house, allowing you to save your euros for Trastevere’s teeming nightlife just down the street.
From S. Maria in Trastevere, walk down V. di Piede until you hit V. della Pelliccia. P. de Renzi is just beyond. Pizza €3-6. Primi €5-8; secondi €5-16; dessert €3-5. Open daily noon-11:30pm.
BISCOTTIFICIO ARTIGIANO
V. della Luce 21
BAKERY
06 58 03 926
With piles on piles of freshly baked cookies, this place seems more like a factory than a humble bakery. With no seats or decorations to speak of, Biscottificio Artigiano’s success rests solely on its scrumptious cookies and ever-growing reputation. (Note the wall of newspaper clippings.) Try the paper-thin stracetti—a slightly sweet c
ookie made from nuts and eggs. Family-run for over a century, this bakery cooks with recipes that are like no one else’s in Rome.
From P. Sonnino, take V. Giulio Cesare Santini and turn left on V. della Luce. Most cookies €7.5-16 per kg. Rustic and fruit tortes €15. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9:30am-2pm.
Termini and Northeast Rome
The area around Termini is dominated by restaurants representing both extremes of the price range: cheap eats and over-priced tourist menus catering to hungry travelers. Avoid restaurants immediately surrounding the station and head into some side streets for higher quality options. If you head too far from the station, though, things will get much pricier around the Villa Borghese.
ANTICA PIZZERIA DE ROMA
V. XX Settembre 41
PIZZERIA