Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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06 48 74 624 www.mcmab.net
Businessmen may take home a big paycheck, but that doesn’t mean they don’t like bargains when they see them: midday, this tiny pizzeria is full of men in suits, munching some of the best-priced and freshest pizza in the neighborhood. Though this pizzeria offers the same standard fare that infiltrates all of Rome (thin crust pizza sold by weight), watching the workers cut, weigh, and serve up fresh pies like a science (or whip out an individual one in less than 10min.) is a real pleasure—and you haven’t even taken your first bite. Once you do, you’ll be ready to join the businessmen every day.
From P. della Repubblica, walk down V. V. E. Orlando and turn right onto V. XX Settembre. Proceed 7min. Individual pizzas €2.20-5.50, €0.70-2 per etto. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.
PASTICCERIA STRABBIONI ROMA
V. Servio Tullio 2a-2b
CAFE, BAKERY
06 48 73 965
Not much has changed at Strabbioni since it opened in 1888: not the hand-painted flowers gracing the ceiling or the old-fashioned lamps, and definitely not the good service and food. (While Let’s Go might not have been around in 1888, we’re pretty sure this place would have merited a listing in Let’s Go Grand Tour 1889.) The second-oldest bar of its type still in Rome, this is the place where locals come for a cheap lunch (primi classics are written daily on a chalkboard outside), a freshly baked pastry, or even an afternoon mixed drink. At only €3.50-4 a drink, how can you resist?
From Porta Pia, walk down V. XX Settembre and make a right onto V. Servio Tullio. Primi €6-7; secondi €8. Pastries €0.80-3. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.
STAROCIA LUNCH BAR
V. Sicilia 121
FOOD BAR
06 48 84 986
Pop into this bustling, modern cafe after a stroll in the Villa Borghese. Chic white decor and a small patio out front distinguish it from other bars offering the same, standard fare. Fresh (and huge) panini, pasta, cocktails, and coffee are surprisingly well priced given Starocia’s hip vibe. Especially popular with the lunch crowd, though its evening happy hour buffet for only €4 (with wine €6) means you’ll probably make it your dinner spot.
Walking south on V. Po (away from the Villa Borghese), make a right onto V. Sicilia. Pasta and secondi €4-7. Tramezzini and panini €1.80-3. Coffee €0.80-1.80. Cocktails €4.50-5.50. Open M-Sa 5:15am-9:30pm. Happy hour M-Sa 6pm.
FASSINO
V. Bergamo 24
CAFE, GELATERIA
06 85 49 117
The folks at Fassino will have you know gelato isn’t just a summer thing. Their famous Brivido Caldo reinvents the favorite frozen treat, sticking a cookie in its middle and turning it into a hot delight topped off with whipped cream. After the sugar rush (or before, if you’re one of those people who’s been brainwashed into the dessert-after-dinner rule), settle down for a savory crepe, which the Sicilian owner makes with no butter fat—only extra virgin olive oil—for a lighter taste. Though their fixed lunch meal (a crepe, drink, dessert, and coffee; €8.50) is a steal, consider coming in the evening when a classical pianist plays until the customers leave.
From the end of V. XX Settembre, turn left onto V. Piave and walk until you hit P. Fiume. Turn right onto V. Bergamo. Gelato €1.50-3. Brivido Caldo €3 (winter only). Cocktails €4.50-5. Open M-F 9:30am-1am, Sa 3:30pm-1am, Su 9:30am-1:30pm and 3:30pm-1am.
RISTORANTE DA GIOVANNI
V. A Salandra 1
RISTORANTE
06 48 59 50
A hand-written menu, shelf of old typewriters, and even a hanging carcass greet customers at this subterranean trattoria. Don’t worry: the meat is dangling in the kitchen, ensuring that your entree will be that much fresher. With only a few windows near the ceiling and a wood-lined interior, this family-run Roman restaurant oozes with dark warmth that matches its classic dishes. You’ve seen it written dozens of times at numerous establishments, but you’ll never get tired of Da Giovanni’s cacio e pepe, which they’ve been making for over 50 years.
From P. della Repubblica, walk up V. V. E. Orlando and turn right onto V. XX Settembre. Walk 5min. and turn left onto V. M Pagano; veer left onto V. A. Salandra. Primi €5.50-6.50; secondi €4.50-12. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-10:30pm.
RISTORANTE AFRICA
V. Gaeta 26-28
AFRICAN
06 49 41 077
The area around Termini abounds with cheap, international dives, but this African restaurant distinguishes itself with better quality food and a more welcoming decor. The staff will be happy to recommend a dish to the customer ignorant of African cuisine, but English translations provide ample assistance. Vegetarians can finally feast on something other than pasta: the aliccia is a healthy dish of puréed vegetables simmered in onion and herb sauce and served with traditional African bread (€9).
Termini. Walk in the direction of P. del Cinquecento and turn right onto V. Gaeta. Appetizers €3-4; entrees €9-12. Open M-Sa 8am-midnight.
BUBI’S
V. G.V. Gravina 7-9
RISTORANTE
06 32 60 0510 www.bubis.it
The small menu and serene pistachio walls of this elegant restaurant cater to diners with refined taste. Terrace seating behind a wall of leaves is great for a more intimate meal and makes you feel far removed from the busy V. Flaminia. Though specializing in classic Roman cuisine, the restaurant serves entrees like straccetti di pollo with curry and Canadian rice as well as a range of gourmet hamburgers that add a little bit of international flare.
A: Flaminio or tram #19 to Belle Arti. Walk up V. Flaminio from the Metro for about 5min. and turn left onto V. G.V. Gravina. Primi €9-12; secondi €12-18. Panini €12-14. Open M-Sa 12:30-3pm and 8-11pm.
Testaccio, Ostiense, and Southern Rome
Testaccio is known among Roman residents as one of the best spots for high-quality, well-priced food. Its location farther from the sights means it evades the tourist crowds of the city center. Whether you want an upscale restaurant or a cheaper trattoria, you won’t have any trouble finding it here. If you’re out exploring the Appian Way, it’s best to bring food with you, since there aren’t many options around there and those that are there are seriously overpriced.
IL NOVECENTO
V. dei Conciatori 10
RISTORANTE
06 57 25 04 45 www.9cento.com
Fresh. Homemade. Family-run. You’ve heard these adjectives used all too often to describe Italian cuisine, but here, they actually come to life. Watch the owner’s son roll out pasta dough, cut it into tagliatelle, and dump it into boiling water before it ends up on your plate topped with their own pesto (€9). If pasta isn’t your thing, then how about pizza or roasted meat—again, you can see both sliced and diced minutes before you eat them. Though the wood-lined rooms up front are especially cozy, try to grab a table in the huge dining room in back so you can take in all the kitchen action.
B: Piramide. Walk down V. Ostiense and make a right onto V. dei Conciatori. Primi €8-10; secondi €12-18. Pizzas €5-9 (only at dinner). Open M-F 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30-11pm, Sa-Su 7:30-11pm.
FARINANDO
V. Lucca della Robbia 30
PIZZERIA, PANIFICIO
06 57 50 674
At Farinando, you can get top-notch pizza by the kilo or pie, huge calzones, and anything from cookies to fruit tarts without having to pay for expensive table service or retreat to a park bench. Stock up before hitting the long V. Ostiense for some sightseeing.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata; turn left onto V. Galvani and right onto V. Lucca della Robbia. Calzones €3. Whole pizza €4-7, €7-18 per kg. Open M-Th 7:30am-2pm and 4:30-8:30pm, F 7:30am-9pm, Sa 5-9pm.
LA MAISON DE L’ENTRECÔTE
P. Gazometro 1
RISTORANTE, ENOTECA
06 57 43 091 www.lamaisondelentrecote.it
You don’t need a plane ride or a time machine if you want to return to bohemian Paris: just retreat to Le Maison’s dim downstairs, where stained-glass lamps and slow music put you at ease.
The small menu lets you pair classic French dishes like cheesy onion soup (€7) with Italian staples. Try their crema gelato topped with Grand Marnier. Check out the antique mirror and the 10% discounted menu scribbled atop it, then check yourself to see if your cheeks are pink like Moulin Rouge from the wine you’ve hopefully been sipping.
B: Ostiense. Walk down V. Marmorata away from Piramide for 5min. and turn right onto P. Gazometro. Primi €7-10. Salads €5-7. Meats €9-14. Beer €4. Cocktails €6. Wine by the bottle €12-16. Open Tu-Th 1-3pm and 8pm-midnight, F-Sa 8pm-midnight.
OSTERIA DEGLI AMICI
V. Nicola Zabaglia 25
RISTORANTE
06 57 81 466 www.osteriadegliamici.info
Besides the excellent cheese-topped pasta dishes, there’s nothing cheesy about this place. Enjoy hot saffron risotto sprinkled with smoked Scamorza cheese and drizzled in balsamic vinegar while downing a glass of their stellar wine (whose cork might get added to the gigantic collection up front). If the relaxed setting makes you want to linger, split a spicy chocolate souffle—almost as hot as the entrees—with your amico, who’s hopefully bringing the heat as well.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata; turn right onto V. Luigi Vanvitelli and left onto V. Nicola Zabaglia. Primi €7-9; secondi €12-16. Open W-Su 12:30-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight.
L’OASI DI BIRRA
P. Testaccio 40
RISTORANTE
06 57 46 122
Most liquor menus round off their selection at a few pages, but this two-floor mecca of food and alcohol has six pages devoted to Belgian beer alone. It requires a book to catalogue the rest of their international collection, which also includes wine, grappa, rum, and whiskey. The floor-to-ceiling bottles (both upstairs and down) probably make up less than 10% of their actual collection. The best way to tackle the menu is to order a bottle for the table (some upwards of €200) and match it up with a few six- or eight-variety plates of salumi, cheese, or bruschetta which come in nearly as many combinations as the alcohol. If you’re bad at making decisions, drop in during happy hour when you can endlessly sample the goods for only €10 at the aperitivo buffet.
B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata and turn left onto P. Testaccio. Also carries a small selection of bottled food products. Bruschettas €8. Salumi and formaggi plates of 6-8 types €16-19. Draft beer €4-10. Wine €12-200+ per bottle. Open M-Sa 4:30pm-12:30am, Su 7:30pm-12:30am. Happy hour nightly 5-8:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Don’t spend all your euros and energy at the museums—Rome’s nightlife is varied and vast, giving you a whole other itinerary to attack after the guards go home and the cats come out to prowl the ruins. Generally, you’ll be able to find whatever nightlife you’re into, though each neighborhood has its own flavor and characteristic selection. The only areas where your nights might end a bit early are, unsurprisingly, Vatican City and the region near Villa Borghese.
Ancient City
Nightlife in the Ancient City is confined mostly to Irish pubs, upscale wine bars, and small cafes open until the late hours. While there’s nothing like walking down a cobblestone street after a few glasses of wine, if you’re looking for young, pumping clubs, head elsewhere.
ICE CLUB
V. Madonna dei Monti 18/19
CLUB, BAR
06 97 84 5581 www.iceclubroma.it
Gelato isn’t the only way to cool off from the hot Roman sun: enter Ice Club, the only bar in Italy made entirely of ice. For €15, you get a silver cloak, a pair of gloves, and one free drink at what may be Rome’s (literally) coolest spot, an ice tube of colored lights, pulsing music, and stellar drinks. Vodka goes down smooth as, you guessed it, ice and not only because it’s served in an ice cup: with over 40 flavors ranging from strawberries and cream to chocolate, you’ll never know you’re drinking your liquor straight. Clearly, this is how the place keeps its clientele, since after a few shots, it’s hard to tell that the temperature is below freezing.
From the Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. Madonna dei Monti. Su-M and W-F drop by between 6-9pm and get in free after 11pm. Open bar Tu €15. Buy 1 shot, get 4 free Th. Credit cards accepted for cover. Cash only at the bar (because credit cards would just be impractical in that weather). Cover €15; includes 1 drink. Shots €2.50. Straight vodka €7. Cocktails €8. Ice luge €10. Open daily 6pm-2am.
SCHOLAR’S LOUNGE
V. del Plebiscito 101/B
IRISH PUB
06 69 20 2208 www.scholarsloungerome.com
There’ll be no scholars reading here: with nine TVs (including two that are over 5 ft. wide) and over 250 kinds of whiskey (the biggest collection in Italy), they’re probably dancing on the table. Don’t bother bringing your Italian phrasebook, because the Irish bartenders, huge Irish flag hanging over the bar, and steady stream of Irish dishes (beef in Guinness stew, €9.50) make this a of Dublin on the Tiber. Although you can keep it cheap at only €3.50 for a pint of beer, those looking for a splurge should check out the whiskey list: a shot of Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve goes for a whopping €133.50. Ask to see their private collection, which might as well be at a museum.
From P. Venezia, follow V. del Plebiscito to just where it intersects V. del Corso. Live music Th-F. Karaoke on Tu and Su. Pints €3.50-5.50. Cocktails €7.50-9.50, €5 during the day. Student specials: long drinks €4.50, shots €1. Open daily 11am-3:30am. Happy hour until 8pm.
LIBRERIA CAFÉ
V. degli Zingari 36
CAFE
06 33 97 22 4622
Libreria’s “business card” is a bookmark, just in case you want to remember the address—or perhaps the page number—where you left off. You’ll find yourself in relaxed company at this bohemian cafe, accoutered with draped cloths, antique couches, votive candles, lamps that might as well have come from a Lewis Carroll novel, and, of course, walls of books by Karl Marx, Victor Hugo, Freud, and any number of Italian authors. Smooth jazz playing in the background will feel even smoother after a glass of one of the 47 varieties of wine (€5) offered. If you do, in fact, want to read, try a cup of tea instead, hailing from Russia, Japan, or even South Africa (€5).
B: Cavour. From V. Cavour, turn right onto P. degli Zingari and left onto V. degli Zingari. Beer €3-5. Wine €5. Cocktails €5-6. Appetizers €6-10. Open M 6pm-2am and W-Su 6pm-2am. Aperitivo buffet 7-9pm, €8.
Centro Storico
The Centro Storico might be old, but it packs in a young crowd at night. One of the best places to find bars and clubs, both in terms of location and quality, this area remains fairly safe after sunset due to its bustle at most hours. If you don’t feel like heading inside, check out the Campo dei Fiori, where many spend the evening enjoying the outdoor scenery.
DRUNKEN SHIP
Campo dei Fiori 20/21
BAR, CLUB
06 68 30 05 35 www.drunkenship.com
Wait, is this the campo or the campus? Walking into Drunken Ship, you might very well think you’re back at college, as it comes complete with nightly beer pong, TVs airing sports games, a DJ spinning Top 40 tunes, and a raucous crowd of students ready to enjoy it all. Great weekly specials, including Wednesday night power hours and Pitcher Night Thursdays (€10), make this one of the most popular spots for young internationals aching for some university-style fun.
In Campo dei Fiori. M-Th half-price drinks for women until 11pm, Tu buy-1-get-1 free until 11pm; check online for more specials. Student discounts nightly. Happy hour pint of wine with free buffet €4. Shots €3-6. Long drinks €6. Cocktails €7. Open M-Th 3pm-2am, F-Sa 10am-2am, Su 3pm-2am. Happy hour M-F 4-8pm.
d-squared
Drinking and dining are two of Italy’s most famous attractions. For all the great cuisine on offer, however, sit-down meals in Italy can equal time and money. If you’re looking to save on both those fronts while indulging your stomach and liver (livers want alcohol, right?), the Italians are have something to help you out: the aperitivo happy hour. This works as follows. Anytime after 5:30pm, most places pu
t out a buffet spread containing anything from finger food to primi, into which customers are free to dive after purchasing a drink. Though you don’t get the service of a sit-down meal, the food is often extremely fresh and well-made, the vibe is casual, and the value unbeatable: as much food as you want and well-priced cocktails for under €10. The only thing to prevent you from loading up your plate with refill after refill is pride. After your fifth trip back to the food table in the course of two hours, you’ll probably realize you don’t have too much of that.
SOCIETE LUTECE
P. di Montevecchio 17
BAR
06 68 30 14 72
The total opposite of an American-college-student-ridden bar, Societe Lutece attracts an artsy late 20s to early 40s crowd. Homemade bags made from recycled material hang from the ceiling, and the menu is a fabric-covered panel of wood into which prices are etched. To complete the natural feel, all food and drinks are organic or locally produced. If you’re hunting for high-quality and low-stress nightlife, how could you look any further than this place’s nut colada (€8)?