Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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HOTEL LANCASTER
V. Abbondio Sangiorgio 16
HOTEL
02 34 47 05 www.hotellancaster.it
The elegant Hotel Lancaster offers relatively enormous rooms, gigantic beds, and humongous showers.
1/2: Cardona F.N. Take tram #19 towards Ospedale Sacco and get off at P. Giovanni XXIII. Follow V. Savoia to V. Sangiorgio. Singles €65-130; doubles €90-230; triples €130-300.
Navigli and Outskirts
Outside of the centro, accommodations vary widely in both price and quality. The area east of Stazione Centrale has some of the cheapest pensione, though these are often located on seedy streets.
ZEBRA HOSTEL
Vle. Regina Margherita 9
HOSTEL
02 87 23 66 83 www.zebrahostel.it
Fortunately, the zebra theme is muted, and there are no tacky striped walls to keep you awake at night. But staying up late must be seriously fun in this new, clean hostel’s gigantic common room, which features classic arcade games.
3: Crocetta. Take V. A. Lamarmora to V. Margherita, and turn left. Hostel is up the stairs and to the left. Dorms €24-26; singles €35; doubles €30-32. €4 linen deposit.
POP HOUSE
V. Menabrea 13
HOTEL
335 80 56 883 www.pophouse-milano.com
At Pop House, a cell phone is your doorman, a computer your concierge, and you’re the room service. The three fashion industry workers who run this simple, modern spot are often off around the globe, but they’re available to open the door from a thousand miles away thanks to high-tech gadgetry. Both the two-room “loft” and three-room “house” are comfortable lounge areas with compact kitchens. Small spiral staircases connect the ground floor to the sleek, stone-walled bathrooms and bright bedrooms—plus a rooftop terrace.
3: Maciachini. Follow V. Menabrea 2 blocks. No reception; call on arrival. Singles €35-50; doubles €50-70; triples €60-75.
OSTELLO LA CORDATA
V. Burigozzo 11
HOSTEL
02 58 30 35 98 www.ostellolacordata.com
Home to a lively, international backpacking crowd headed for the disco lights of the Navigli district, Ostello La Cordata has a party-hostel reputation.
3: Missori. From P. Missori take tram #15 2 stops to Italia S. Luca; continue in the same direction for 1 block and turn right onto V. Burigozzo. Entrance around the corner on V. Aurispa. Dorms €21-25; singles €50-70; doubles €70-100; triples €90-120. Lockout 11am-2:30pm.
MISTER BEEM
V. Goldoni 84
HOSTEL
380 46 72 253
Though the doorknob may be falling off the front door, this hostel is located in a safe and quiet residential area southeast of the city center. If you have an allergy to flowers—tacky paintings of sunflowers, that is—the orange-colored common room might make you want to sneeze.
1: Porta Venezia. Take tram #5 or 33, in direction of Ortica or Limbrate, to P. Savoia. Continue walking in the same direction 4 blocks and turn right onto V. Cicognara. Make a left onto V. Goldoni. Dorms €18-23. Lockout 11am-1:30pm.
HOTEL BRASIL
V. G. Modena 20, 4th floor
HOTEL
02 70 10 22 76 www.hotelbrasilmilano.com
Descisions, decisions, decisions. Hotel Brasil offers a myriad of different room setups at varying prices. All are brightly colored with an abundance of natural light in the high-up floor of an apartment building southeast of C. Venezia. Even though bags of linens are sometimes left in the hallway, guests in every room receive the same basic hospitality from the helpful staff.
1: Palestro. From C. Venezia, turn right onto V. Salvini, which becomes V. Vitali. Make a slight left at V. de Bernardi, which becomes V. Belloti. Walk 5 blocks and turn right onto V. Modena. Small breakfast buffet €3. Singles €35-45; doubles €40-55; triples €50-65; quads €65-80.
RIPA DEL NAVIGLIO
Ripa de Porta Ticinese 71, 4th fl.
B AND B
02 89 69 33 43 www.ripadelnaviglio.it
The red blankets and cozy double beds make this bed and breakfast ripe for romance. Want to impress that cute Italian girl? Take her here—with a flowered balcony overlooking the rooftops and an airy breakfast room in sunburst colors, Ripa del Naviglio is a hidden oasis.
2: Porta Genova. Walk down V. Casale. Cross the footbridge and turn right. Only 3 rooms. Doubles €110, can sometimes be negotiated lower for stays over 3 days.
HOTEL CALAIS
V. Washington 26
HOTEL
02 46 94 760 www.hotelcalaismilano.com
Even given the two world clocks set to Havana and Moscow in the hotel’s lobby, we won’t pass judgment on the owner’s political leanings.What we can say is that he (and his little dog, too!) is helpful and runs a quirky establishment—guestroom walls painted with turquoise waves to mimic the breaking surf of La Manche and all.
1: Wagner. From the large traffic circle, follow V. Washington to the south. Singles €50-65; doubles €65-80; triples €85-100.
OSTELLO A.I.G. PIERO ROTTA (HI)
Vle. Salmoiraghi at V. Calliano
HOSTEL
02 39 26 70 95 ostellomilano.it
Comparing this hostel to an aging supermodel probably gives it a little too much credit—or too much insult to supermodels—but it’s certainly ready for some plastic surgery. Built in the 1950s, this large, 400-bed hostel has dark hallways and aging bathrooms, but recently began a major renovation.
1: QT8. When facing park after exiting station, follow V. Salmoirghi to the right. 6-bed dorms €22; private rooms €25. €5 cash key deposit required. Lockout 10am-2pm.
SIGHTS
Is this a city without a history? An Italian city without a history, at that? Of course not, though compared to Rome, Venice, and Florence, Milan can sometimes seem rather without roots. With a city center that’s grown up around the 14th-century Duomo, Milan does indeed have a robust past of politics, art, and culture that is revealed in its sights.
Piazza Del Duomo and Fashion District
DUOMO
P. del Duomo
CHURCH
02 72 02 33 75 www.duomomilano.it
The second-largest Catholic cathedral in the world, the Duomo takes up the largest spot in the hearts of Milan’s residents. With a construction spanning from 1386 to the 1900s, the building juxtaposes an Italian Gothic style with Baroque architectural elements added at the order of Archbishop Borromeo, who sought to show solidarity with Rome during the Protestant Revolution. The rooftop, accessible by elevator or stairs, offers one of Milan’s best vistas. The nearby Museo del Duomo remains closed for renovation but normally houses paintings, tapestries, and artifacts dating back to the cathedral’s construction.
1: Duomo. Modest dress code strictly enforced. Free. Rooftop elevator €8. Stairs €5. Open daily 7am-7pm. Roof open daily Feb 16-Nov 14 9am-10pm.
TEATRO ALLA SCALA
P. della Scala
OPERA
02 88 79 24 73 www.teatroallascala.org
They say it’s not over until the fat lady sings. Similarly, no opera can be complete without having been performed at La Scala, the world’s preeminent venue. Opera season runs from December to July and September to November, overlapping the ballet season. The theater also has a museum that lets you trace its history through a series of small, lavishly designed rooms on an upper floor of the building. You can also get a slimpse into the main hall, which even if you don’t care for opera can still be absolutely stunning.
1/3: Duomo. Pass through the Galleria to P. della Scala. Dress code: jacket and tie for men, appropriate attire for women. Ticket prices vary widely depending on performance. Any remaining tickets sold at a 25% discount 2hr. before the performance; student discounts available. Museum €5. Box office open daily noon-6pm in 1: Duomo, and at theater 2hr. before performances. Theater closed Aug. Museum open daily 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.
PINACOTECA AMBROSIANA
; P. Pio XI 2
MUSEUM
02 80 69 21 www.ambrosiana.it
When a gallery’s halls themselves count as art, how much more spectacular does that make the works they house? It’s a fair question at this museum just blocks from the Duomo. The palatial rooms of the Ambrosiana feature walls of vibrant colors and molded ceilings in gold leaf. The masterworks on the walls include the first Italian still-life, Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit. Raphael’s expansive sketch of the School of Athens fills an entire wall in a room darkened for preservation.
1: Duomo. Follow V. Spadari off V. Torino, and turn left onto V. Cantu. €8, under 18 or over 65 €5. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI
V. Gesu 5
MUSEUM
02 76 00 61 32 www.museobagattivalzecchi.org
This stunningly preserved 19th-century palazzo has no business calling itself a museum—it’s more like a time machine. Built to appear several centuries older than it actually is, this former home of brothers Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi is full of Renaissance artwork and artifacts, including paintings by Giovanni Bellini.
3: Montenapoleone. Walk down V. Monte Napoleone and turn left onto V. Gesu. €8, students and over 65 €4. €4 for all on W. Open Tu-Sa 1-5:45pm.
MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI
V. Manzoni 12
MUSEUM
02 78 08 72 www.museopoldipezzoli.it
Enter the home of one of Milan’s most storied collectors, Gian Giacomo Poldi Pezzoli. His broad collection includes a number of famous Italian works, including Botticelli’s Madonna and Pollaiuolo’s Portait of a Young Woman. Works by some Flemish and Northern European painters, including Brueghel the younger, are on display as well. Jewelry, furniture, and timepieces round out this palazzo’s marvelous trove of objets d’art.
1/3: Duomo. Follow V. Manzoni past La Scala. €8, students and seniors €5.50, under 10 free. Open M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm.
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II
P. del Duomo
ARCHITECTURE
Welcome to what may be the world’s first shopping mall. But as they say, oft-imitated, never duplicated, and no suburban teen hangout can match the Galleria in intricacy and expense. Light streams in through the 48m glass and iron cupola, making this five-story arcade of offices, restaurants, and overpriced shops a marvelous sight.
1/3: Duomo. To the left when facing the Duomo. Free (entry at least).
Giardini Pubblici
If you feel as if you’re running low on oxygen in Milan’s treeless concrete jungle, here’s your neighborhood.
GIARDINI PUBBLICI
C. Venezia at Bastioni di Porta Vinezia
GARDENS
02 67 06 093
More than just a park and namesake to the neighborhood, the Giardini Publicci brings a swath of green to a city in which all streets feel walled-in by buildings and most foliage is confined to private interior courtyards. Milan’s main park is a popular spot among the city’s residents who come here to walk their dogs, lie in the sun, or simply wander amidst the garden’s shady ponds, open lawns, and mossy cliffside trails.
1: Porta Venezia or Palestro. Free. Open June-Aug 6:30am-11:30pm, Sept 6:30am-11pm, Oct 6:30am-9pm, Nov-Dec 6:30am-8pm, Jan-Feb 6:30am-8pm, March-April 6:30am-9pm, May 6:30am-10pm.
GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA
V. Palestro 16
MUSEUM
02 88 44 59 47 www.gam-milano.com
Located in the historic Villa Reale—whose ornate ballrooms-turned-galleries are nearly a sight unto themselves—this gallery on the fringe of the Giardini Pubblici features a vast array of modern Italian art focusing on the 18th and 19th centuries. Among the best-known artists represented here are the Post-Impressionist Paul Gauguin and the Futurist Giacomo Balla.
1: Porta Venezia. Free. Tu-Su 9am-1pm and 2pm-5:30pm.
Castello Sforzesco
Welcome to Milan’s tourist district, part two. The Castello is a hub for many visitors, hawkers, and museums, but the surrounding area, with less trodden ground, hides a few extraordinary gems.
CASTELLO SFORZESCO
P. Castello
CASTLE, MUSEUM
02 88 46 37 00 www.milanocastello.it
Visiting Castello Sforzesco is just like being in a toy shop: A castle! With a moat! And gates that crash down! And knights in shining armor! And princesses! And museums of ancient art and Egypt and prehistory and decorative arts and musical instruments! (OK, so maybe not all of us had ancient art museums at our local toy store.) Really, Milan’s dominant fortress, constructed in 1368 to defend the city, is way better than a toy box. Leonardo’s studio could once be found within the castle which today pays tribute to him and many other artists in its Museum of Ancient Art, where Leonardo’s frescoes cover the ceiling.
1: Cairoli. Grounds free. All-museum pass €3, students and seniors €1.50. Castle grounds open Apr-Oct daily 7am-7pm; Nov-Mar 7am-6pm. Museums open Tu-Su 9am-5:30pm.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE AND CENACOLO VINCIANO
P. Santa Maria delle Grazie 2
CHURCH
02 89 42 11 46 www.cenacolovinciano.org
Leonardo’s The Last Supper is one of the world’s most famous paintings and—unlike another famous Leo da Vinci masterpiece—it isn’t surrounded by hundreds or thousands of gawkers. Due to the fragility of the painting, which was restored and returned to public display in 1999, groups of only 25 are granted 15min. slots in which to view the painting. Still, as any economist will tell you, this limited supply creates a significant shortage of tickets, so book ahead (02 92 80 03 60).
1: Conciliazione or 3: Cardona. From P. Conciliazione, take V. Boccacio and then turn right onto V. Ruffini for 2 blocks. Many tickets for the Last Supper are bought up by tour companies months in advance, so be sure to reserve early online. Church free. Refectory €6.50, EU residents 18-25 €3.25, EU residents under 18 or over 65 free. Reservation fee €1.50. Church open daily 7am-noon and 3-7pm. Refectory open Tu-Su 8am-7:30pm; last entry 6:45pm.
PINACOTECA DI BRERA
V. Brera 28
MUSEUM
02 72 26 31 www.brera.beniculturali.it
One of the Pinacoteca di Brera’s most unique aspects is that, within a glass enclosed cube in Gallery 14, conservators work on paintings, providing a glimpse into how art museums keep their priceless works fresh. Founded for the private study of art students, this museum also includes highlights such as Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin and Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus in addition to numerous other works spanning from the 14th to 20th centuries.
2: Lanza or 3: Montenapoleone. Walk down V. Pontaccio and turn right onto V. Brera. Visitors with disabilities enter V. Fiori Oscuri 2. €5, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm.
MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLA SCIENZA “DA VINCI”
21 V. San Vittore
MUSEUM
02 48 55 51 www.museoscienza.org
No automobiles here, but there are planes, trains, ships, and a submarine—some designed by Italy’s most famous inventor and the museum’s namesake, whose sketches have been reconstructed in 3D so kids can try to make that outrageous whirlybird fly.
2: Sant’Ambrogio. €8, under 18 and students with ID €6. Open Tu-F 9:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-6:30pm.
MUSEO CIVICO ARCHEOLOGICO
C. Magenta 15
MUSEUM, ANCIENT ROME
02 86 45 00 11
Whoa—the ancient Romans had central heating? And Milan was at one point their imperial seat? You bet, as this museum of Milan’s ancient history reveals. With its collection of stonework, knives, and pottery as well as the patrician residence and Roman rampart in its backyard, the Museo Civico Archeologico offers a rare glimpse into the city’s ancient history. Don’t miss the ruins of Emperor Maximian’s residence. (V. Brisa 16 Off C. Magenta. Free.)
1/2: Cardona F.N. Follow V. Carducci and turn left onto C. Magenta. €2, students and seniors €1.
Open Tu-Su 9am-1pm and 2-5:30pm.
Navigli and Outskirts
While Milan’s monuments are concentrated in the city center, beyond this area a number of museums whose scope stretches past the classical art and history found near the Duomo await. From sports to modern sculpture and poster art, there’s much to explore beyond Milan’s ring roads.
CIMITERO MONUMENTALE
Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale
CEMETERY
02 88 46 56 00 www.monumentale.net
Imagine Arlington Cemetery in Virginia, with its rows of even, identical grave-stones. Then imagine the exact opposite. That’s Cimitero Monumentale, whose often gaudy mausoleums and sculpted headstones offer an everlasting image of the departed. Famed conductor Toscanini makes this graveyard his final resting place. Try to spot his tomb, which was designed for his son who died at the age of four. It’s pockmarked with scars left from the WWII bombs that battered Milan. When the tomb was recently restored, the holes were left as a reminder of Toscanini’s staunch resistance to Mussolini’s regime.