Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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2: Porta Garibaldi. Walk parallel to the tracks and under the overpass. Cross V. Farini to the cemetery parking lot. Free. Open Tu-Su 8am-6pm.
STADIO GIUSEPPE MEAZZA, SAN SIRO
V. dei Piccolomini 5
OUTSKIRTS
02 48 70 71 23 www.acmilan.com, www.inter.it
There’s just one thing that all Milanese can be said to take too seriously: soccer. With two world-renowned squads occupying the same city—and stadium—every single citizen has picked a side. Matches in this 85,000-seat complex are raucous affairs, especially when the city’s two teams, AC Milan and Inter, go head-to-head twice a year. Tickets can be hard to come by, so buy them early. You also get a tour a visit the museum, which traces the history of both clubs through displays of everything from posters to jerseys to vintage noisemakers.
1: Lotto. From P. Lotto, a long walk down Vle. Caprili, which becomes Piazzale del Spor. Tickets can be purchased at local banks—AC Milan at Intesa San Paolo and Inter at Banca Populare di Milano, both of which have many locations throughout the city. Tickets €7-135. Museum €7, under 18 and over 65 €5. Museum and tour €12.50/€10. Most games Sept-June Su afternoon. Museum open daily 10am-5pm. Sometimes varies on gamedays and during special events.
BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE AND LORENZO COLUMNS
C. di Porta Ticinese 39
CHURCH
02 89 40 41 29 www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com
Up, up, and away is the feeling as San Lorenzo’s soaring dome draws eyes to the heavens. Its gold-plated altar and organ make for another holy feast for the eyes. The columns outside the building are the most significant Roman ruin remaining in Milan and act not only as a historical reminder but as a social gathering spot. The basilica itself also has historic relevance, as its round floorplan became a symbol of the circle’s perfection during the Renaissance.
1: San Ambrogio. Follow V. de Amicis. Free. Open daily 7:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6:45pm.
TICINESE CITY GATE
P. XXIV Maggio
ARCHITECTURE
Originally part of a wall built to protect Milan in the 1100s, today this gate is wide open to the onslaught of cars, scooters, and trams that invade the city. As the only gate from the period remaining in the city, Ticinese is an impressive survivor. Today, a countercultural scene can be found making its weekend home under the gate’s arches, with impromptu concerts filling the Friday night air, bars sprouting from the back of parked VW buses, and communist rallies bringing out the carabinieri.
2: Porta Genova. Free.
PIRELLI TOWER
P. Duca d’Aosta 3
TOWER
If the Duomo is the elegant symbol of Milan’s heart and soul, the Pirelli tower is the manifestation of its industrial brawn and economic prosperity. Upon orders from Alberto Pirelli, president of the famous tire company, construction began in 1956. Soon the 30-story tower was the tallest building in Italy. It is now one of the city’s best known buildings.
2/3: Centrale F.S. Interior not open to the public. Free.
FOOD
There’s much to be had from Milan’s culinary scene, from slices of pizza enjoyed while sitting on the sidewalk to fine dining in the city’s venerable sit-down, button-up establishments. Starting the night off right is easy with happy hour aperitivo buffets offered by many bars, especially near the Navigli—all-you-can-eat spreads of breads, pasta, meats, and cheeses come included with the purchase of one drink. Sadly overlooked most everywhere except inside the city’s ring road, Milanese cuisine with its risotto and cottoletta alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet) is still served up in a number of quaint trattorias. Often hard to find in Italy, ethnic cuisines from Argentina to Eritrea and beyond take center stage in some neighborhoods, particularly around Giardini Pubblici.
Piazza Del Duomo and Fashion District
When it’s time to sit down and eat after your sightseeing, identify the touristy spots nearby...then steer clear. A better bet is to venture down a few side streets, where there are a number of great, inexpensive options.
PRINCI
V. Speronari 6
BAKERY, PIZZERIA
02 87 47 97 www.princi.it
Restaurant idea lab, circa the foundation of Princi: “Hey, I’ve got an idea! Let’s put an Italian bread shop into an Egyptian tomb!” In such a manner, this dimly lit, sandstone-walled bakery might have been conceived. The hubbub of locals swarming the counter can be intimidating to tourists unfamiliar with the place, but to order a tasty pizza slice (€3.50-5) or pastry (€1-4), just be assertive and push through the throngs to reach the counter.
1/3: Duomo. Take V. Torino and make first left. Primi and secondi €5-10. Open daily 7am-8pm.
BREK
Piazzetta Giordano 1
BUFFET
02 76 02 33 79 www.brek.com
Grab and go is not the motto here. This is fast food Fashion District style, so the buttoned-up throngs take their meal on china from the buffet and walk down the wide, grand staircase to eat. Typical Italian entrees like lasagna and pizza accompany sides ranging from meat and cheese plates to chocolate cake and tiramisu.
1: San Babila. From P. San Babila, walk through Galleria San Babila arcade to Piazetta Giordano. Salads €3-4. Pizza slices €3-4. Primi €4-6. Open daily noon-3pm and 6:30-10:30pm.
PIZZA AND FRIENDS
V. F. Baracchini 9
PIZZERIA
02 87 23 81 33 www.pizzaandfriends.com
If you believe the names of its dishes, this place should cost a fortune. Luckily, it doesn’t. The “St. Tropez” (tomato, mozzarella, tuna, leek, and basil; €9) ain’t nearly as expensive as the vacation destination it’s named after, and the “Rockefeller” (mozzarella di bufala, truffles, egg yolk, arugula, and parmesan; €12) doesn’t require the bank account of America’s famous oil tycoon. The greatest part? These pizza pies taste like a million bucks.
3: Missori. From P. Missori, follow V. M. Gonzaga. At P. Diaz, turn right onto V. Baracchini. Pizzas €5.50-12. Sandwiches €5-6.50. Open daily 11:30am-1am.
GROM
V. Santa Margherita 16
GELATERIA
02 80 58 10 41 www.grom.it
This place’s gelato is so good that they have to hide it. While other establishments have mounds of the stuff on display, at Grom, only the privileged few get a chance to see the masterpiece frozen treats that servers keep covered under American-style tin lids.
1/3: Duomo. Pass through the Galleria to P. Scala. Follow V. San Margherita to the right. Gelato €2.50-3.50. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11pm.
CAFE VECCHIA BRERA
V. dell’Orso 20
CAFE
02 86 46 16 95 www.creperiavecchiabrera.it
Crepes and beer. What’s not to love? Even better, this casual establishment claims to offer an entire “world” of different and exotic brews (€3-15), and the bar has the bottles and taps to prove it. No matter which brew you choose, combine that cool golden beverage and a steaming golden crepe (€5-7).
1: Cairoli. From Largo Cairoli, follow V. Cusani until it becomes V. dell’Orso just before the cafe. Cover €1. Crepes €5-7. Sandwiches €7-8. Open M-Sa 7am-2am, Su 11am-2am.
3CAFE
C. di Porta Ticinese 1
ARGENTINE
02 45 49 60 85 www.3cafe.it
In Milan, a place of refined taste and class, it seems practically vulgar to put a picture of a big, juicy, hunking piece of meat in your window. But that’s just how 3Cafe adorns itself, and this method seems to work, as the restaurant draws people in for steaks prepared in a way that you just can’t get at most ristoranti.
2: Sant’Ambrogio. Follow V. de Amicis and turn left onto C. di Porta Ticinese. Primi €6; secondi €7.50. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm.
Giardini Pubblici
The streets surrounding Giardini Pubblici offer an (eventually welcome) respite from the Italian fare that dominates the city. Locals—who are adamant about cooking their own h
omegrown recipes—come to this neighborhood for its selection of cuisines from Asia, Africa, and even the Americas.
CASATI 19
V. F. Casati 19
RISTORANTE
02 29 40 29 94 www.ristorantepizzeriacasati19.it
This family-run establishment has gotten a reputation as Giardini Pubblici’s go-to neighborhood ristorante. Its pizzas, including the featured “Casati 19” with artichokes and cured beef (€7.50), are always filling.
1: Porta Venezia. Cover €1.50. Primi and secondi €8-16. Open Tu-Su noon-3pm and 7-11pm.
RISTORANTE ASMARA
V. L. Palazzi 5
ERITREAN
02 89 07 37 98 www.ristoranteasmara.it
Prepare your taste buds before entering this African establishment that features spicy food beneath Eritrean flags and portraits of tribesmen. Use your hands to scoop up zighini with meat and vegetables into a flatbread (€10).
1: Porta Venezia. Cover €1.60. Appetizers €4-5.50; entrees €8-10. Open M-Tu 10:30am-3:30pm and 6pm-midnight, W 6pm-midnight, Th-Su 10:30am-3:30pm and 6pm-midnight.
L’OSTERIA DEL TRENO
V. San Gregorio 46/48
RISTORANTE
02 67 00 479 www.osteriadeltreno.it
Step right up to this cozy self-service restaurant, where locals gather at lunchtime to catch up with friends and meet for work dates with colleagues. The menu changes daily, but you can count on a number of pasta and meat options.
2/3: Centrale F.S. Primi €4.50; secondi €6.50. Open M-F 10am-7pm and 8:30pm-12:20am, Sa noon-7pm and 8:30pm-12:20am, Su 10am-1pm and 7pm-12:30am.
RISTORANTE INDIANO NEW DELHI
V. Tadino 1
INDIAN
02 29 53 64 48 www.ristorantenewdelhi.it
Italians turn to Ristorante Indiano New Delhi for something they don’t know how to prepare: the best Indian food in the neighborhood. If you’re feeling particularly native, join the crowd and chow down on a fresh-cooked samosa, enjoy one of New Delhi’s lunch specials (vegetarian €8, with meat €9), or sample from the Indian-style antipasti (€3.50-6).
1: Porta Venezia. Tandoori and curry dishes €11-14. Open daily 11am-4pm and 6pm-midnight.
AZZURRA GRILL
V. San Gregorio 11
SEAFOOD
02 29 40 61 15
The deep blue sea is pretty far from Milan, but fresh fish still come in daily at this grill. At Azzura, you can sample all of the ocean’s bounty in pastas, cooked as main dishes, and on pizzas. Try the thin sliced swordfish (€13) or Azurra’s signature pizza, which is topped with tomatoes and seafood (€9).
1: Porta Venezia. Primi €7-12. Seafood dishes €11-19. Open daily 7-11pm.
Castello Sforzesco
As is the case with the Duomo, restaurants within sight of the Castello Sforzesco are designed to catch tourists who don’t know where else to eat. Try Corso Magenta and some parts of the Brera district instead.
CHOCOLAT
V. Boccaccio 9
GELATERIA
02 48 00 16 35 www.chocolatmilano.it
Six different flavors of gelato, and that’s just counting those of the chocolate variety. You’ll find that this gelateria not only earns its name but goes beyond the call of duty, serving up white chocolate, coffee, nougat, and fruit flavors as well. Locals say that the unique, spicy Chilli Chocolate flavor is a must-have.
1/2: Cardona F. N. Gelato €2.50-3.50. Open M-F 7:30am-midnight, Sa 8am-midnight, Su 10am-midnight.
JAMAICA BAR
32 V. Brera
CAFE
02 87 67 23 www.jamaicabar.it
Don’t visit this Brera establishment for a serving of modesty—it’s not on the menu at this historic cafe that’s played host to a line of important artists, writers, and even Nobel prize winners. What is on sale here is Milan’s culinary classic, cottaletta alla milanese, a fried veal cutlet served with risotto (€14.50).
1: Lanza. Take V. Tivoli, which becomes V. Pantaccio. Turn right onto V. Brera. Panini €5-6. Antipasti €5-7. Pizza €7-9. Open daily 9am-2am. Closed Su for 5 weeks in July and Aug.
PASTICCERIA MARCHESI
V. Santa Maria alla Porta 11/A
BAKERY
02 87 67 30 www.pasticceriamarchesi.it
Ouch! Our sweet tooth is aching just looking at this place’s pastel-colored frosted cakes and chocolate delights laid out to tempt the weak of will.
1: Cairoli. Follow V. San G. Sul Moro to intersection with C. Magenta. Pastries €2-5. Open Tu-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-1pm.
Navigli and Outskirts
The best of the best in Milan’s hinterlands aren’t necessarily near one another, but the search just adds to the reward. In the Navigli, try to hit up the aperitivo buffets of the area’s countless bars.
BIG PIZZA: DA NOI 2
V. Giosue Borsi 1
PIZZERIA
02 83 95 677 www.danoi2.com
The name is no lie. These pizzas are big—bigger than the plate, bigger than a New-York-style slice, maybe bigger even than the Big Apple itself. Get your belly ready for these thin-crust puppies.
2: Porta Genova. Cover €1.50. Pizza €6.50-8.50. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7pm-midnight. Sometimes stays open later on weekends, depending on crowds.
CHOCO CULT
V. Buonarroti 7
GELATERIA, BAKERY
02 48 02 73 19 www.chococult.it
Both an early morning coffee stop and a refreshing afternoon ice cream stand, this establishment actually makes most of its revenues from the sale of hard chocolate (€50-200 per kg). Luckily, its chocolate-making skills are also put to good use in all of its other delicacies., including a lot of gelato.
1: Wagner. Gelato €2.50-3.50. Coffee and espresso €1-3. Open daily 7am-midnight.
AMERICAN DONUTS
V. Sirtori 4
CAFE, AMERICAN
02 89 05 77 79 www.americandonut.it
Oh beautiful, for sprinkle skies, and amber rings of dough! In fact, such a soundtrack might be the last touch missing from this clever diner that certainly doesn’t take itself too seriously—Old Glory graces everything from the coffee mugs to the servers’ aprons. For a breakfast on the go, grab a doughnut (€1.80), or take on a more leisurely and fattening American meal and enjoy a burger or fried chicken (€7-10).
1: Porta Venezia. From P. Romana, take V. Melzo and turn right onto V. Malpighi, then a quick left onto V. Sirtori. Cookies and muffins €1.50. Sandwiches €3-4.50. Open M-F 7:30am-7:30pm, Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-7pm. Brunch served Sa-Su 10am-4pm.
PICHANAS
Piazzale Lotto 14
BRAZILIAN
02 39 21 44 08 www.pichanas.com
If you’re on the one-meal-a-day diet but not really feeling it, here’s the place for you. One meal is all you will need after Pichana’s gigantic buffet of meat, pastas, and vegetable side dishes. The dinner buffet (€40) is accompanied by live Latin music and features 20 appetizers and 12 different meats, but the real deal is the smaller lunch (€15).
1: Lotto. On the circle in Hotel Oro Blu. Lunch €15; dinner €40. Open daily 12:30-3pm and 8pm-2am. Will sometimes stay open later than officially stated.
LA CANTINA DI MANUELA
V. Procaccini 41
RISTORANTE
02 34 52 034 www.lacantinadimanuela.it
Wine bottles for sale hang on the wall at this intimate brasserie, which claims to focus first and foremost on that most sacred art of drinking vino. Small-batch Italian vintages and well-known brands are all available from behind the bar. In the kitchen, dishes range from rissotos to fish and beef filets, and many courses feature wine-based sauces.
2: Garibaldi F.S. Walk alongside the tracks on V. Sturzo, then continue in front of the cemetery building to V. Procaccini on the other side of the piazza. Antipasti and primi €8-10; secondi €19-22. Open M-Sa 11:30am-3pm and 6:30pm-2am.
GHIRERIA GRECA
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 13
GREEK
02 58 10 70 40
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Take a quick trip across the Adriatic—or at least the Naviglio Grande—to stop at this quick and scrumptious Greek sandwich shop that provides a satisfying alternative to nighttime bar food.