SPIAGGE DI VENEZIA
Piazzale Ravà
BEACH
041 52 61 249 www.veneziaspiagge.it
With hotels limiting access to a lot of the prime stretches of beach in Lido, just spending a day on the shore can end up costing over €50 per person simply for chairs, umbrellas, and towels. Spiagge di Venezia—which manages two popular stretches of beach in Lido—is the more budget-conscious option if you want to soak up the sun without spending too much cash. You could certainly rack up the charges with food, drinks, a changing room, and umbrella and chair, but none of these are necessary to enjoy Lido’s magnificent sandy expanses and pristine waters.
From dock Lido San Nicolò, go east on V. Giannantonio Selva for 6-8min. and you’ll reach the Spiagge. Beach free. Umbrella and chair €12. Private changing room €23. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Giudecca
Giudecca, technically a part of Dorsoduro but separated from the neighborhood by the Giudecca Canal, is the most easily accessible of the lagoon islands, as the vaporetto #2 line zigzags the Giudecca Canal and makes several stops on the island. A €2 ticket for crossing the Giudecca canal supposedly exists, but the vaporetto operators Let’s Go spoke with said they didn’t care if we hopped on for one stop free of charge. Thanks, guys! In recent years there has been talk of constructing a tunnel between Dorsoduro and Giudecca, but it appears no such plans will be implemented in the foreseeable future. Giudecca seems to have a rather cyclical history. It was first inhabited by wealthy families who claimed a preference for large estates with gardens but were really being pressured to leave the city due to political controversy. The lack of large-scale residential development on the island later made Giudecca the center of the city’s early 20th-century industrial boom, and for a time, the island produced the vast majority of commercial boats used in the city. After WWII, Giudecca lacked viable industry and fell into disrepair but is completing the cycle again with the development of upscale housing and hotels. Though Giudecca is coming back into fashion, its industrial history remains an influence: the island’s most prominent landmark and one of Venice’s most prestigious hotels, The Molino Stucky Hilton, is located in a former granary and flourmill which retains a sternly industrial exterior despite its interior’s refinement and elegance.
IL REDENTORE
Campo S.S. Redentore 195
CHURCH
041 27 50 462 www.chorusvenezia.org
One of Venice’s most celebrated churches, Il Redentore is by far the biggest attraction on Giudecca. The church, which was constructed to give thanks for divine deliverance from the plague (perhaps a bit prematurely) in 1577, is considered one of Andrea Palladio’s greatest works, displaying his acute awareness of proportion in architectural design. Inside the church, paintings from some of the city’s greatest artists, including Saraceni, Veronese, and Tintoretto hang, underscoring the prominence of the church in Venetian society. So highly regarded was Palladio’s masterpiece that it gave rise to its own festival, the Festa del Redentore, which began as an annual political procession from the Doge’s Palace to the church and, though now largely devoid of religious sentiment, continues to be celebrated every third weekend in July.
Take vaporetto line #2 to Redentore; the church is immediately ahead. €2.50, with Chorus Pass free. Elevator to campanile €4. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm. Last entry 15min. before close.
Murano
Known colloquially as “The Glass Island,” Murano is one of the largest lagoon islands and has been the center of Venice’s glass industry since the 13th century, when concerns about the possibility of fires in the city center led politicans to ban glass production. Of course, safety concerns never stopped enterprising Venetians from selling the glass anywhere, and buyers of the stuff are everywhere. Nevertheless, Murano remains the glass headquarters of Venice. Though the large brick buildings, open kilns, and occasional abandoned workshops give the island a slightly gritty industrial feel, it also features a few beautiful tree-shaded streets with glass shops displaying the work of the island’s top artisans. If you spend more than a few minutes exploring Murano, you’re almost certain to find a fornace in operation where you can see some of the world’s most talented artisans practicing their craft. If you’re lucky, you might even find a studio that lets visitors try their hand at glass blowing. Travel times to Murano vary, but expect to spend at least 30min. getting there by vaporetto lines #41, 42, or LN, which are generally the most accessible options.
islands of the lagoon
The islands in the lagoon surrounding Venice are often given short shrift by travelers on tight schedules, but they have played a vital role in Venetian history and remain fascinating to this day. If you have a couple of hours of free time and the foresight to plot a good vaporetto route from island to island, you can visit a half-dozen of them with relative ease. The one thing shared by the islands is their ability to retain distinct identities. The major islands remain strikingly different from one another and proud of their independent cultural and historical legacies. Some are strongly provincial and have generally eschewed economic diversification, while others have maintained a strong sense of local community despite being subject to change and turmoil. Many are still virtually uninhabited. Visitors tend to have mixed feeling about the islands of the Venetian Lagoon, some considering them not worth the time or trouble, others maintaining that the islands are the main reason to visit the city. If you want a complete overview of the city of Venice, get on a boat and explore the myriad opportunities the lagoon offers.
MUSEO DEL VETRO
Fondamenta Giustinian 8
MUSEUM
041 73 95 86 www.museiciviciveneziani.it
Anyone with enough interest in artisan glass to visit Murano shouldn’t leave without checking out the Museo del Vetro, which traces the development of Murano’s glass industry from its earliest stages to the present day. The museum features several exceptional pieces, both contemporary and historical, that reflect the ways in which glass has been historically used both practically and aesthetically. Though the collection is impressive, the real draw is the wing dedicated to glass production that gives an overview of how different glasses are made and the minerals that are used to give the material its different colors and textures. Don’t miss the museum garden and its fascinating artifacts.
V: Museo (accessible by lines R, 41, 42, N, and DM). Follow the signs to the museum. €6.50, students ages 15-25, ages 4-14 and over 65, and Rolling Venice Card holders €4. Admission included in Civic Museums Pass. Open daily Apr-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-Mar 10am-5pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA E SAN DONATO
Calle San Donato 11
CHURCH
041 73 90 56
A unique church, Murano’s Basilica contrasts sharply with the Renaissance architecture that you’ll find throughout Venice and Italy as a whole. With distinct Byzantine influences in its exterior, elaborate arches, and strong geometric patterns, the Basilica embodies Eastern influences that have profoundly shaped the development of Venetian culture and society. The floors within the church, comprised of thousands upon thousands of jewel-like tiles, are incredibly intricate and some of the city’s most breathtaking mosaics. The church also houses a set of bones reputed to be from a dragon.
V: Museo (accessible by lines R, 41, 42, N, and DM). Walk past the museum along the canal for about 2min.; the church is ahead on the left. Free. Open daily 8am-7pm.
Burano
Burano—about an hour away from Venice by vaporetto lines LN and N—is a relatively small island best known for its handmade lace production and fishing industry. Visitors to Burano almost inevitably stop in Murano first, since that island is on the way from Venice, and are consistently surprised at the contrast between the two. Whereas Murano is populated by brick and stone buildings and is almost as devoid of vegetation as Venice, Burano boasts several large parks, lots of open space, and famously colorful houses. Originally, at least according to legend, th
e fishermen of the island painted their homes ostentatious shades of blue, pink, red, green, yellow, and orange so that each could readily identify his home from a distance when returning to the island, and the fantastically colorful homes have evolved into a Burano trademark. While this tradition is now somewhat obsolete given technological improvements in nautical navigation, lace production in Burano continues in much the same fashion that it has for centuries. Though you can shop for Burano-style lace in Venice (see Venetian Artisan Goods), Burano itself is the best place to find a wide selection of lace goods that are guaranteed to be handmade. Be forewarned, however, that the lace production process is labor-intensive, and that labor will be reflected in the price of pretty much anything you buy. Even if you’re not shopping for lace, it’s still absolutely worth paying a visit to Burano. An hour or two of wandering will bring you to the beautiful Church of San Martino and its infamous leaning campanile; the Lace Museum (P. Galuppi 187 041 73 00 34), which is returning in 2011 after an almost year-long sabbatical; and some of the most beautiful and whimsical buildings in all of Venice.
Torcello
Accessible by vaporetto line N and a ferry (T) from Burano, Torcello isn’t the easiest island to get to but definitely rewards those who make the effort. Though the island—the first settlement in the lagoon—was once home to over 20,000 people, from the 12th to the 15th centuries it was largely abandoned as the lagoon surrounding it became a swamp. Torcello is now home to only a few dozen people managing a couple of restaurants, a hotel, and the scant attractions that bring tourists to the island. Walking around this bit of land can be a surreal experience; it’s hard to comprehend that this largely abandoned and overgrown island once was home to the largest population center of the Venetian Republic. So few relics remain.
CATHEDRAL OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA
Isola di Torcello
CHURCH
041 27 02 464
Founded over 13 centuries ago, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta offers a strong reminder of the thriving community that once existed on Torcello. It’s definitely not worth making the trip all the way out to Torcello just for this small church, but as an example of the eclecticism in Venice’s early places of worship, its mosaics and incredible rendering of the Last Judgment are engaging. The campanile, once abandoned, is again in operation and affords the best view of the northern lagoon you’ll find anywhere. Also affiliated with the cathedral are the smaller churches of Santa Fosca and Museo di Torcello, both of which are sure to fascinate any visitors intrigued by the strange history of Venice’s abandoned island.
From the island’s only vaporetto stop, follow the path to the island’s only substantial settlement. It’s a 7-10min. walk; just look for the tower in the distance. Church €4. Campanile €4. Both €7.50. Open daily Mar-Oct 10:30am-6pm; Nov-Feb 10am-5pm.
FOOD
As you might expect in a city visited by over 20,000,000 tourists each year, Venice has no shortage of restaurants. Almost all are receptive to international travelers and offer English-language menus and service, particularly those where the tourist industry is centered.
Since visitors to Venice range from international celebrities to student backpackers, most restaurants try to accommodate all tastes and budgets. Even in the most upscale Venetian restaurants, you should typically be able to get a pizza for less than €10. That being said, a few restaurants in prime locations bank on being able to overcharge hungry tourists who don’t have the energy to look beyond the first place they see. Avoid suffering a less-than-memorable and expensive meal and do a bit of comparison shopping before settling on an eatery. Also take note of whether you should expect a service charge. These should be written on the menu of most establishments that have one. While common, the service charge can come as an unpleasant surprise.
Most restaurants in Venice serve food typical of the Veneto region, which shouldn’t offer any particular surprises for travelers familiar with the basics of Italian cuisine. Risotto, beans, and polenta are particularly popular here. Menus tend to be rather seafood-heavy, but pasta, chicken, and steak are also fairly standard offerings. Pizza, of course, is a staple of almost every dining establishment. Since the tradition of eating cat in Northern Italy has been banned, there shouldn’t be anything too troubling on the menu for English-speaking tourists, with the possible exceptions of squid-ink pasta (nero di seppia) and horse meat (cavallo), which aren’t too common. For students really looking to save time and money, sandwich shops, snack bars, kebab shops, and small pizzerias often offer decent and reasonably filling meals, including drink, for less than €6.
San Marco
Like most things in San Marco, dining tends to be expensive and upscale. You’ll find some of Venice’s best restaurants here, but they tend to be some of the priciest as well. Despite this trend, there are a surprising number of restaurants that offer great values, particularly if you’re willing to trek a couple blocks away from P. San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.
TRATTORIA PIZZERIA AI FABBRI
Calle dei Fabbri 4717
TRATTORIA, PIZZERIA
041 52 08 085
An eclectic pizzeria that cooks up more than just your conventional margherita and quatro formaggi varieties, Pizzeria Ai Fabbri is distinguished by a high degree of culinary creativity, evident in their unusual appetizers (including sumptuous duck dumplings) and wide selection of side dishes that wouldn’t find their way onto a typical Venetian menu. Though a flatscreen TV by the entrance tuned into news or soccer matches gives the restaurant a bit of a bar-ish feel, those who would prefer a quiet meal in the back dining room can enjoy the same excellent menu in a more serene setting.
Go through the St. Mark’s Clock Tower, turn left, continue to Calle dei Fabbri, and continue for 2-3min.; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €7.50-23. Open daily 11am-midnight.
BISTROT DE VENISE
Calle dei Fabbri
RISTORANTE
041 52 36 651 www.bistrotdevenise.com
With an innovative menu that features historic recipes citing origins in the 16th century (which appears to be when the restaurant won its first award, given the incredible number of honors it has since racked up), Bistrot de Venise specializes in traditional Venetian food prepared to the absolute highest standard. Though the sticker shock might dissuade some budget travelers, if you want a world-class meal in San Marco, you won’t find anything nearly this good for anything less.
Go through the St. Mark’s Clock Tower, turn left, continue to Calle dei Fabbri, and continue for about 2min.; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €18-28. Open M-Th noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight, F-Sa noon-3pm and 7pm-1am, Su noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight.
RISTORANTE NOEMI
Calle dei Fabbri 912
RISTORANTE
041 52 25 238 www.ristorantenoemi.com
For those of you craving a steak or some veal after weeks spent subsisting on a carbheavy Italian diet, Ristorante Noemi should make its way onto your radar, as it is reputed to serve up some of the best grilled food in Venice. Affiliated with the upscale Hotel Noemi but catering to a clientele that goes beyond the hotel’s guests, this restaurant offers high-quality traditional Venetian food at respectable prices, especially if you manage to avoid the temptation to order the menu’s highest-priced items.
Go through the St. Mark’s Clock Tower, turn left, continue to Calle dei Fabbri, and continue 2min.; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €8-34. Open daily 11:30am-midnight.
ACQUA PAZZA
Campo San Angelo 3808
SEAFOOD
041 27 70 688 www.veniceacquapazza.it
Acqua Pazza, roughly translated as “Crazy Waters,” is both the name and the motif of this fine restaurant near San Marco’s two modern art museums. Featuring excellent seafood and bizarre, though amusing, acquatically inspired decor—Acqua Pazza is just as sweet as it is salty—its €12 house desserts are some of the best confections Venice has to offer.
From Teatro La Fenice, continue
northwest on Calle de la Verona for less than 2min., take the 1st left after crossing a bridge, take the next right, and take the next left; the restaurant is in Campo San Angelo. Men are required to wear long pants to dinner. Entrees €18-35. Open daily noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm.
BAR MIO
Frezzeria 1176
SNACK BAR
If you’re feeling bold, try to claim a spot at Venice’s most heavily trafficked snack bar. You’ll be rewarded with a sandwich crisped to perfection—though never overheated—at a pleasantly low price. You’re unlikely to see any other tourists in Bar Mio, but that doesn’t mean the place is starving for business. The incredibly efficient employees don’t have a moment’s rest from opening to close, as locals constantly stream in for first-class coffee and sandwiches.
Exit the southwest corner of P. San Marco, opposite Basilica di San Marco, and take 1st right onto Frezzeria; the restaurant is less than 1min. ahead on the right. Sandwiches €4.50-7. Open daily 6:30am-9pm.
RISTORANTE ANIMA BELLA
Calle Fiubera 956
RISTORANTE
041 52 27 486
A quirky and small restaurant that bills itself as a combination ristorante, pizzeria, and grill, Anima Bella is more reminiscent of the dining room in a typical Italian villa than a tourist-filled restaurant in San Marco. Since Anima Bella tends to focus on relatively few dishes prepared exceptionally well, you could order anything off the menu without regretting it. However, while everything here is prepared with care, you could eat ravioli for weeks in Venice and find none that match the quality you’ll get at Anima Bella.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 142