Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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CA’ MACANA
Dorsoduro 3172
DORSODURO
041 27 76 142 www.camacana.com
Venice is overrun with mask shops, but Ca’ Macana is one of the few places that focuses exclusively on Carnival masks and regards its work as a serious art form. Though the shop has an unmatched selection of masks, it’s Ca’ Macana’s workshops, where you can see masks being made by hand, that truly set it apart.
From Campo San Barnaba go south; the store is ahead on the left. The showroom and mask-making courses are in 2 different storefronts just north of Campo San Barnaba. Masks €15-60. Open daily 10am-7pm.
MA.RE
V. XXII Marco 2088
SAN MARCO
041 52 31 191 www.mareglass.com
MA.RE is stylish and cutting-edge without being jarringly avant-garde and offers pieces that are practical and functional rather than just glass for glass’s sake. Unlike other stores specializing in kitsch and easily mass-produced artifacts, MA.RE makes sensible yet innovatively designed products. This is particularly evident in the beautiful wine, cocktail, and drinking glasses that manifest the talent of their Murano artists.
Exit the southwest corner of P. San Marco, continue west across a bridge, and keep walking for less than 2min.; the store is ahead on the right. Prices vary depending on quality of glass and product. Open daily 10:30am-7pm.
DUE ZETA
371-368 Calle Larga San Marco
SAN MARCO
041 63 17 79 www.duezeta.net
A lot of the glass sellers around San Marco greet tourists with a smile and a 50% markup, but the manager of Due Zeta is much more likely to introduce himself with a sneer and offers of steep discounts. The expansive store—which fills its three storefronts with an incredible selection—offers everything from inexpensive glass jewelry and souvenirs to high-end glass artwork that is worth taking some time to admire, even if you’re not in the market for a €2500 chandelier.
From P. San Marco, 2nd street to the north. Earrings and other jewelry as little as €3. Chandeliers up to €2500. Open daily 9am-11pm.
P. SCARPA
Campo Frari 3007
SAN POLO
041 52 38 681
One of the few lace shops outside of Burano that sells high-quality handmade products from the island, P. Scarpa captures the atmosphere of Burano perhaps better than any other store in Venice proper.
Along the southern edge of the square. Prices vary. A lot. Open daily 10:30am-7pm.
gondolas
Probably the most recognizable (and cliché) symbol of Venice, the gondola once filled the city’s canals, serving as the city’s main mode of water transportation. They were decorated with brilliant colors and designs that rivaled the extravagance of the famed Venetian Carnevale masks, but the city put the kibosh on the artistic arms race in the 16th century and mandated black as the standard color. In the centuries that followed, the gondola eventually fell out of favor as more efficient means of aquatic transportation became available, but several hundred still remain for the enjoyment of tourists. To prevent unsanctioned price-gouging, legal standard rates (€80 for 40min. and up to 6 people, €40 for each additional 20min., 25% price increase for night tours) have been established for gondola rides. Some gondoliers manage to circumvent these by charging for add-ons such as tours, singing, or other amusements. The gondola is certainly a Venetian novelty and many travelers will feel that their trip is incomplete without a ride in one, but budget travelers unwilling to shell out more for a 40min. ride than they’re spending on the night’s accommodations can hop on the traghetti for a much abbreviated, more goal-oriented (getting from one side of the Grand Canal to the other) version of the same experience. It’s €0.50, and comes without the funny hats and singing (usually).
Markets
Though Venice has relatively few open spaces and streets, it is the setting for a number of respectable outdoor markets selling fresh fruit, vegetables, and seafood. Though the markets can be a bit intimidating to the timid traveler—you might be surprised by the vendors’ brusque manners—if you’re assertive, you’ll find excellent values on the freshest and most delicious produce in the city. Prices are typically posted, so you don’t have to worry about getting overcharged. Do make sure you’re paying for produce that isn’t blemished or bruised, though, since some vendors try to pass the damaged wares off on tourists who are less likely to complain.
RIALTO MARKET
San Polo
SAN POLO
Once the biggest market in the Mediterranean, the Rialto Market still does business largely the way it has for nearly the past millennium. With wholesalers, retailers, restaurateurs, local shoppers, and tourists, things can get kind of crazy, but the spectacle of the market is part of what makes it great.
On the San Polo side of the Rialto Bridge, walk toward the Grand Canal and continue west. Prices are variable but cheap. Open M-Sa 8am-noon. Fish available Tu-Sa 8am-noon.
TRADITIONAL BOAT MARKET
Campo San Barnaba
DORSODURO
A relic from Venice’s past without a fixed name or address, the boat market docked near Campo San Barnaba is the best remaining example of Venice’s answer to the supermarket. If you want to actually buy things, it’s not really worth coming here. But if you want a cool experience, this is a great choice. In theory, it’s a market run out of a boat, but it’s actually so popular that it also occupies a storefront opposite the boat’s moorings.
Exit Campo San Margherita in the southwest corner and continue west until you reach the bridge; the market is on the water. Prices are variable but quite cheap. Open M-Sa 8am-6pm. Hours may vary, especially during winter.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: APT Tourist Office provides information, maps, tours, the Rolling Venice Card, and theater and concert tickets. Outposts are located throughout the city. (Main Office: P. Roma 041 24 11 499 www.turismovenezia.it Additional offices near P. San Marco (San Marco 71) and on Lido (Gran Viale 6/A). Open daily 9:30am-1pm and 1:30-4:30pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Stazione Santa Lucia. ( 041 785 531 www.grandistazioni.it At the train station. First 5hr. €4, €0.60 per hr. up to 12, €0.20 per hr. thereafter. Open daily 6am-midnight.)
• DISABILITY SERVICES: Informahandicap provides information to physically disabled travelers in Venice, which, given the city’s crazy design, is potentially a very useful thing. (San Marco 4136 041 27 48 144 www.comune.venezia.it Nearest vaporetto stop is Rialto. On Riva del Carbon, 2-3min. southwest of Rialto Bridge. Open Th 9am-1pm.)
• POST OFFICES: Poste Venezia Centrale. (Main office at San Marco 5554, with branches all over the city 041 24 04 158 www.poste.it Nearest vaporetto stop Rialto. The post office is off of Campo San Bartolomeo, directly in front of the Rialto Bridge. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: There are police stations all over the city, but the main one is the Carabinieri office. (Campo San Zaccaria, Castello 4693/A 041 27 411 Walk straight and follow the signs from vaporetto San Zaccaria.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Ospedale Civile. (Campo Giovanni e Paolo Santissimi, Castello 6777 041 52 94 111 ww.ulss12.ve.it Walk east from vaporetto Fondamenta Nuove and turn right after 1st bridge. Be forewarned: the hospital has limited hours and is likely to redirect you elsewhere for further treatment.)
Getting There
By Plane
As many tourists are crestfallen to discover, though Aeroporto Marco Polo (VCE) (041 26 09 260 www.veniceairport.it) is billed as Venice’s airport, once you’ve made it there, the journey to Venice’s historic center has only just begun. You could opt to take a water taxi to reach the centro, which would cost about €100, but there are several more economical ways to make it to Venice from the airport. Alilaguna (041 24 01 701 www.alilaguna.it) offers transport directly from VCE to the city center at €12 per passenger, but the service isn’t necessarily the most expedient option. The ultimate
budget solution is to take any one of a number of bus lines to Piazzale Roma, located near the Calatrava Bridge just minutes away from Stazione Santa Lucia. The buses, which offer convenient transportation throughout the region, are operated by ACTV (041 24 24 www.hellovenezia.it) and cost as little as €2.50. This is comparable to the ATVO Shuttle bus, which also stops at Piazzale Roma and costs €3 for a one-way trip. Regardless of how you plan to get from Aeroporto Marco Polo to the city, be sure to get your ticket before leaving the airport—tickets for transportation services are most easily purchased at the windows there.
By Train
Most travelers who are already in Italy will reach Venice by train. Several train lines run through Stazione Santa Lucia (041 26 09 260 www.veneziasantalucia.it), in the east of the city, bringing people from Bologna ( €8.90. 2hr., 30 per day.), Florence ( €22.50. 2-3hr., 20 per day.), Milan ( €14.55. 2½-3½hr.), Rome ( €42.50. 3½-6hr., 20 per day.), and numerous local destinations.
Getting Around
By Foot
Though Venice is a wonderful city with many great things to offer visitors, convenience of transportation isn’t one of them. Within the city’s six sestiere, there are absolutely no cars, buses, or trains. While poets, musicians, and various members of the literati have waxed nostalgic about the beauty of Venice’s romantic, tangled streets, those same winding walkways are likely to provoke less lyrical outbursts from those unfamiliar with the city. Even experienced travelers will likely find themselves frustrated when navigating the city, since maps struggle to provide adequate detailing of the city’s smaller thoroughfares. Additionally, streets are often nameless or change names unexpectedly, and street numbers organized by neighborhood give only a general indication of where particular addresses are to be found. Your best bet is to memorize a few major landmarks, know the vaporetto stop nearest your hotel, know at least one campo near your hotel or hostel, and keep the cardinal directions in mind.
By Boat
In some cases, particularly when bridges are scarce, travelers will find it more convenient to get to their destination by boat. Before you spend a lot of money on an expensive vaporetto ticket, consider whether a traghetto might get you to your destination more quickly. There are several major stops in the city where you can catch these small ferries, essentially gondolas without the kitsch, that will take you across the Grand Canal for only €0.50. Signs toward traghetti stops tend to be clearly indicated, and odds are, wherever you are, there will be one nearby. Traghetti hours vary and are limited during the winter, but in general, they remain an excellent means of transport around Venice. The vaporetti offer more extensive service throughout the city and operate 24hr. per day but are also more expensive. A single vaporetto ride costs €6.50 and longer-term passes which offer unlimited service are also available ( 12hr. pass €16; 24hr. €18; 3-day €21; 4-day €28; 7-day €50), but the best option for students visiting in the short-term may be to purchase a three-day pass (€22) that includes unlimited transport via vaporetti and mainland-connecting buses as well as the benefits of the Rolling Venice Card.
verona
045
Fair Verona, best known to most English-speakers as the site of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, has come a long way since the days when the Houses of Montague and Capulet fought in its streets. (OK, maybe the Bard embellished the history a bit, but a real-life Capello family did live here long ago.) Currently home to a thriving population of over 260,000 people, Verona is one of the liveliest and most economically important cities in northern Italy. Its ability to reconcile this modernity with its storied history through the preservation of numerous historic buildings and architecturally significant works from the Middle Ages has earned it a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
ORIENTATION
Verona is a sprawling city with over 700,000 people in its greater metropolitan area, but the good news for visitors is that it’s actually fairly manageable. Getting around requires a fair amount of biking or walking, which is the best means of transit since car travel will likely leave out-of-towners frustrated, but pretty much everything of interest is within a 15-20min. walk of the Arena. Given the incredible number of well-preserved historic sights and buildings, the journey can be even more interesting than the ultimate destination.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Verona is one of the most difficult places in Italy to find budget accommodations. Often the city’s visitors are older opera aficionados, so most hotels cater to a wealthier clientele.
HOTEL SAN LUCA
Vicolo Volto San Luca 8
HOTEL
045 59 13 33 www.sanlucahotel.com
Hotel San Luca might be beyond the price range of many budget travelers, but anyone willing to shell out for a top-quality hotel should seriously consider this one since you get what you pay for and then some.
From the southwest corner of P. Bra, continue south on C. Porta Nuova and turn right onto Volto San Luca. Singles €78-181; doubles €116-208; triples €146-258.
B AND B ALLE ERBE
Corte Sgarzarie 5
B AND B
39 29 15 50 00 www.alleerbe.it
By far our favorite bed and breakfast in Verona, B and B Alle Erbe sits in a picturesque courtyard no more than 10min. from any of the city’s major sights.
From P. Bra, go northwest on V. Fratta, turn right onto C. Cavour, and continue straight for about 5min. Singles €45-60; doubles €60-180.
HOTEL SIENA
V. Marconi 41
HOTEL
045 80 03 074 www.hotelsiena-verona.it
Complementing its lovely enclosed garden and excellent-value rooms with unparalleled service, Hotel Siena is small but nonetheless very accommodating of international travelers, although quite far from the centro.
From P. Bra, exit west onto V. Roma, turn left onto V. Daniele Manin, and continue straight for 3-5min. Singles €50-90; doubles €65-135.
HOTEL ARENA
Strada Porta Palio 2
HOTEL
045 80 32 440 www.albergoarena.it
A great value hotel, Hotel Arena has some of the cheapest rooms on offer, particularly for travelers booking singles or doubles. Central location.
From Castelvecchio, continue south along Strada Porta Palio for about 2min.; the hotel is on the right. Singles €35-75; doubles €60-115.
SIGHTS
If you invest in a Verona Card (1-day pass €10; 3-day €15), you’ll get free access to 12 sights, plus four more at a reduced charge. The card is available at most major sights and local tabaccherie. If you’re tempted by the many Romeo-and-Juliet attractions, do bear in mind that they tend to be overcrowded and of relatively little historic signficance. A more interesting time can be found visiting Piazza delle Erbe, the hub of Verona’s political and cultural life since Roman times.
ARENA DI VERONA
P. Bra
ANCIENT ROME
045 80 03 204 www.arena.it
The Verona Arena, one of the best preserved and maintained Roman ampitheaters in the world, is both the city’s most prominent Roman edifice and its top venue for theatrical and musical performances. Used in antiquity for less refined (i.e. brutal) spectacles, the arena was lauded in modernity for its remarkable history as well as its excellent acoustics, and the summer operas here are one of the biggest reasons visitors come to Verona.
From Stazione FS, bus #11, 12, 13, or 72 on M-Sa or #90, 92, 93, 96, or 97 on Su. Entry €3, free with Verona Card. Opera tickets €23-198. Open M 1:30-7:30pm, Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm. Most performances at 9pm.
MUSEO DI CASTELVECCHIO
C. Castelvecchio 2
CASTLE, MUSEUM
045 80 62 611 www.comune.verona.it
The castle of Castelvecchio itself is as much of an attraction for many visitors as the museum to which it’s home. Built by the Scaliger dynasty of Verona in the 14th century on the site of a defunct Roman fortress, the castle is the city’s most notable medieval building for both architectural a
nd historical reasons. The interior, however, has been completely renovated to accommodate an extensive collection of medieval and Renaissance artwork from the region.
From Stazione FS, take bus #21, 22, 23, 24, or 41 on M-Sa or #91, 93, 94, or 95 on Su. €6, students and over 60 €4.50, ages 8-14 €1, free with Verona Card. Open M 1:30-7:30pm, Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm.
COMPLESSO DEL DUOMO