Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 147
P. Duomo
CHURCH
045 59 28 13 www.chieseverona.it
An architecturally fascinating cathedral, the Complesso del Duomo was originally consecrated in the fourth century as a small and relatively simple church and was rebuilt several times over the next few centuries due to natural disasters. The cathedral’s structure suffered during the 1177 earthquake that sparked Verona’s Romanesque movement, a period which profoundly shaped the development of the modern cathedral.
Bus line #72. €2.50, free with Verona Card. Open Mar-Oct M-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 1:30-5:30pm; Nov-Feb Tu-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 1:30-5pm.
CASA DI GIULIETTA
V. Cappello 23
PALAZZO, MUSEUM
045 80 34 303 www.comune.verona.it
This building is purported to be the home of Juliet Capulet—and is a rare exception to the classiness you’ll find all over Verona. The house is of dubious historical significance at best, given that it has yet to be proven that the Juliet featured in Shakepeare’s work was even a real person, but that doesn’t deter hundreds of thousands of visitors from flocking to the house each year.
Bus #72 or 73. €4. Open M 1:30-7:30pm, Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm.
FOOD
Verona is one of the Veneto’s top culinary cities and is famous above all else for its excellent wines. While visitors to Verona expect great vino, many are also surprised by the number of fantastic cafes and restaurants.
TIGELLA BELLA
V. Sottoriva 24
RISTORANTE
045 80 13 098 www.tigellabella.it
Tigella Bella is an unconventional restaurant featuring small plates rather than full entrees, but it serves up delicious fried dumplings and tigella bread, a unique regional delight.
From the southeast corner of P. Bra, exit onto V. Pallone; take the last left before the bridge onto V. Marcello and continue until the street ends; turn left then immediately right. Entrees €8.90. Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7pm-12:30am.
CANGRANDE OSTERIA AND ENOTECA
V. Dietro Listone 19/D
RISTORANTE
045 59 50 22 www.enotecacangrande.it
A popular restaurant among locals and visitors, Cangrande has garnered resoundingly positive reviews for its Veronese specialities, which range from exceptional meat and cheese plates to more unique regional delicacies.
From the southwest corner of P. Bra, exit west onto V. Roma and take the 1st right onto V. Listone; the restaurant is shortly ahead on the left. Entrees €7-21. Open M-Sa 10am-1pm and 5pm-1am.
LA TAVERNA DI VIA STELLA
V. Stella 5/C
RISTORANTE
045 80 08 008 www.trovaristorantiverona.com
La Taverna di Via Stella is a true tavern, featuring a cozy, welcoming ambience and excellent, hearty portions of local specialties. You’ll find several innovative preparations of duck, some of the best polenta you’ll ever eat, and numerous vegetable side dishes that complement any meal on their well-rounded menu.
From the Arena, exit northeast onto V. Anfiteatro and continue for 3-5min.; the restaurant is shortly ahead after V. Anfiteatro becomes V. Stella. Entrees €7.80-19.50. Open daily 12:15-2pm and 7:15-11pm.
CREPERIA CUOVE AND AVANZI
V. Marconi 58
CREPERIE
32 91 69 98 34
After a long night out, crepes may be one of the few foods that rival kebabs on the list of crave-worthy foods available in Italy. This place takes it to the next level.with an astonishing menu of sweet and savory crepes for next to nothing.
From the southwest corner of P. Bra, exit west onto V. Roma, make the 1st left onto V. Daniele Manin, and continue for 6-8min.; the creperie is on the right. Crepes €2.60-3.60. Open Tu-Th noon-2:30pm and 6pm-1am, F noon-2:30pm and 6pm-3am, Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-midnight.
TRATTORIA AL SOLITO POSTO
V. Santa Maria in Chiavica 5
RISTORANTE
045 80 14 220 www.alsolitoposto.verona.it
A restaurant that is among the city’s best according to locals, Trattoria al Solito Posto tends to keep it simple with top-quality Veronese cuisine prepared with fresh, local ingredients.
From the Arena, exit northeast onto V. Anfiteatro, continue for 4-6min., turn left onto V. al Cristo, and make the 3rd right onto V. Santa Maria in Chiavica; the restaurant is shortly ahead Entrees €7.50-14. Open M noon-2:30pm, W-Th noon-2:30pm, F-Su noon-2:30pm and 7:30-10pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Verona acquits itself surprisingly well for a quiet town mainly famous for an Elizabethan tragedy—several bars and clubs stay packed well into the night, even on weekdays.
PASION ESPAÑOLA
V. Marconi 4
BAR
045 59 60 38
The best late-night bar in the city, Pasion Española is the place to go for drinks, music, and a great Spanish-infused atmosphere after 1am.
From the southwest corner of P. Bra, exit west onto V. Roma and make the 1st left onto V. Daniele Manin. Drinks €2-6. Open M-Th 10pm-3am, F-Sa 10pm-4am, Su 10pm-3am.
BLOOM CAFE
P. Erbe 24
CAFE
045 20 68 160
Bloom Cafe is distinguished by its excellent patio, attentive service, selection of high-end liquors, and great lounge music.
Northwest corner of P. Erbe. Drinks €3.20-6.70. Open daily 9:30am-2am.
CASA MAZZANTI CAFFÉ
P. Erbe 32
CAFE
045 80 03 217 www.casamazzanticaffe.it
Casa Mazzanti Caffé might be the most sophisticated bar in the city, but it avoids taking itself too seriously. Sit on the patio to relax and make small talk.
Northwest corner of P. Erbe. Drinks €3-8. Open daily 8am-2am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The central tourist office is at V. degli Alpini 9. (045 80 68 680 Accessible by bus #13, 51, 61, 62 70, 71, or 73. Walk south from Arena di Verona into P. Brà. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-3pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: (V. Salvo D’Acquisto 6 045 80 561 Bus #72. From city center, continue along C. Porta Nuova and turn right onto V. Antonio Locatelli.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Ospedale Civile Maggiore provides emergency and non-emergency medical care. (Piazzale Aristide Stefani 1 045 81 21 111 www.ospedaleuniverona.it Bus #41, 62, 7, or 71.)
Getting There
By Plane
Verona has a small international airport, Aeroporto Valerio Catullo (VRN) (Valerio Catullo 045 80 95 666 www.aeroportoverona.it). A shuttle from the airport to the train station runs every 20min.
By Train
Verona Porta Nuova station (045 89 20 21 www.grandistazioni.it) is where most travelers arrive. It offers service to and from: Bologna ( €7.20. 50-90min., 1-2 trains per hr.); Milan ( €9. 1hr. 20min.-2hr., 2-3 per hr.); Rome ($ €45-85. 3hr., about 1 per hr.); Venice. ( €6.15. 1-2 hr., 2-4 per hr.)
bologna
051
Bologna la grassa, la dotta, la rossa. It’s a common refrain among locals trying to describe their city’s greatest attributes. Fat, learned, and red—in these terms, the city sounds kind of like an obese Commie professor, but, really, they sum up the place quite nicely. First, la grassa. The people of Bologna love their food, and they’re famous for it. Stuffed pastas like tortellini are among the local creations, and lasagna alla Bolognese has of course gathered popularity far from Emilia-Romagna’s dark, fertile soil. The town’s other primary exports are caps and gowns—la dotta. Bologna is home to the Western hemisphere’s oldest university, the very first “Alma Mater,” whose 100,000 students swamp the city while classes are in session and leave it feeling decidedly roomy come summertime. With youthful exuberance (and livers), these students lend the city hopping nightlife and plenty of inexpensive booze. What Bologna hasn’t been so successful at spreading around Italy these days are the works of the national Communist Party, la rossa, which is headquartered in the city and has the sympathies of a number of it
s citizens.
ORIENTATION
Welcome to Bologna, a pedestrian’s town. Almost everything happens inside the centro walls, and a walk straight across takes less than 40min., meaning anywhere worth going is easily reached on foot. Most travelers arrive at Stazione Centrale, in the north of the city. Just left of the station exit, Via dell’Indipendenza, which runs south to the centro at Piazza Nettuno, begins. The larger Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s medieval center, connects to P. Nettuno. From here, streets branch off and lead to the city’s many museums. Via Rizzoli runs east from P. Nettuno to the Two Towers of Bologna, one leaning, and to Via Zamboni, hub of the city’s university and a major student gathering spot. Via Ugo Bassi runs west from the piazze to Via del Pratello’s numerous bars. Via Archiginnasio heads south alongside the basilica to Bologna’s classiest quarter, where the entrances to designer shops gleam beneath elaborately patterned portico ceilings.
ACCOMMODATIONS
For a place with so many students, Bologna is woefully lacking in hostels—there’s just one, and it’s several kilometers from the centro. Other accommodations can be pricey and fill up quickly, especially at the beginning and end of the school year in September and May. Though no other hotels are too far apart, the most affordable properties can be found near Via Marconi and Via Ugo Bassi.
ALBERGO ATLANTIC
V. Galleria 46
HOTEL
051 24 84 88 www.albergoatlantic.net
This new, immaculate hotel near Stazione Centrale can, in places, resemble a surrealist maze of stairs, but its rooms and public areas are flooded with light, its wooden decor is classy, and the amenities are plentiful.
From the train station, head straight down V. Galleria. Singles €50-130; doubles €80-190; triples €100-250.
ALBERGO GARISENDA
V. Rizzoli 9/Galleria Leone 1
HOTEL
051 22 43 69 www.albergogarisenda.com
The beds and bathrooms may be modern, but that’s about it—and at Albergo Garisenda, that’s a good thing. The owners have decorated the halls and guest-rooms of this third-floor hotel with an electic collection of antiques ranging from carved armoires and a piano to turn-of-the-century sewing machines.
Take V. Rizzoli and turn right up the steps into Galleria Leone, where the door is on the left. Singles with shared bath €45-55; doubles €60-85, with bath €75-110.
ALBERGO CENTRALE
V. Della Zecca 2, 3rd fl.
HOTEL
051 22 51 14 www.albergocentralebologna.it
With two separate sitting rooms in which to relax and sweeping views of Bologna’s rooftops (ask for a room on the hotel’s upper floor), Albergo Centrale has some features more befitting of a luxury hotel than one with two stars (and one that’s located one the third floor of an office building to boot).
Just off V. Ugo Bassi. Singles €65-80; doubles €85-120; triples €105-150.
HOTEL DUE TORRI
V. degli Usberti 4
HOTEL
051 26 98 26 www.hotelduetorri.net
Travelers bothered by flowers, pastel colors, or frilly white tablecloths best steer way clear of this one. Those who can handle baby-blue fabric draped above their bed will be pleased with Hotel Due Torri’s nicely sized, comfortable rooms.
From P. Maggiore, take V. degli Usberti and turn left onto V. Gessi; then make the 1st left and 1st right. Singles €55-130; doubles €60-160; triples €80-200.
ALBERGO PANORAMA
V. Livraghi 1, 4th fl.
HOTEL
051 22 18 02 www.hotelpanoramabologna.it
The flowers welcoming guests outside the elevator, and at the front desk, and in the hall may be fake, but the benefits of staying in this great location sure aren’t. In addition to its proximity to most of Bologna’s sights, the very well-appointed singles make this hotel an excellent choice for solo travelers.
Just off V. Ugo Bassi. Only credit card accepted is Visa. Singles €40; doubles €60, with bath €80; triples €80-90; quads €90-100.
OSTELLO DUE TORRE SAN SISTO (HI)
V. Viadagola 5
HOSTEL
051 50 18 10 www.ostellodibologna.com
This quiet spot is 4km outside Bologna’s center and surrounded by farmland. Though the large dorm rooms are bunk-bed-free and the comfortable common room is full of student travelers, the hostel’s remote location is a major drawback.
Take bus #93 from V. Mille at P. dei Martiri to San Sisto. At night, take bus #21B from the train station. Dorms €17; singles €23-25; doubles €38. Lockout 10am-2pm.
SIGHTS
Bologna’s academic heritage has given it dozens of free museums. The University Museums, too many to count on one hand (or two hands and two feet, for that matter), cover every imaginable discipline and are clustered at the far end of V. Zamboni while the Civic Museums are more spread out. Plazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nuttuno are the city’s main squares featuring Romanesque architecture, countless monuments, and, in the latter, the surprisingly sexual stone and bronze fountain of Neptune and Attendants. In P. di Porta Ravegnana you can see The Two Towers, one of which is leaning at an angle that would make Pisa proud.
BASILICA MADONNA DI SAN LUCA
34 V. San Luca
CHURCH, PANORAMIC VIEW
051 61 42 339 www.sanlucabo.org
On a hilltop high above Bologna, this basilica holds a mysterious and prized icon of the Virgin Mary. The current church (not the first on the site) was constructed in 1723. Outside, views over the rolling countryside of Emilia-Romagna testify to the fertility of this region’s land, though there are no stunning vistas of the city from here.
Bus #20 to Villa Strada. Then take tourist bus or a 40min. hike to the church. Free. Open Mar-Oct M-Sa 6:30am-7pm, Su 7am-7pm; Nov-Feb M-F 6:30am-5pm, Su 7am-5pm.
PALAZZO ARCHIGINNASIO
P. Galvani 1
PALAZZO
051 27 68 11 www.archiginnasio.it
Built in 1563, the first permanent seat of Bologna’s famous university has a lot of grafitti to show for its age, though maybe not the kind you have in mind. The coats of arms of over 5000 instructors and students cover the walls and ceilings of the palace’s courtyard and hallways. Today, the building houses the 800,000-volume Biblioteca dell’Archginnasio, arguably Italy’s most important public library.
Walk down V. Archiginnasio alongside the basilica from P. Maggiore. Free. Open M-F 9am-6:45pm, Sa 9am-1:45pm. Closed 1st 2 weeks of Aug.
PINACOTECA NAZIONALE
V. delle Belle Arti 56
MUSEUM
051 42 09 411 www.pinacotecabologna.it
The focus on religious artwork at this pinacoteca (art gallery) can be staid, but the brushwork is astounding. God seems to pop right out of the frame in many of these pieces, especially the more Realist ones, which are the youngest works in this collection spanning from Ancient Rome era to the 18th century. Artists include Raphael and Vasari.
From the 2 towers, take V. Zamboni. Turn left at the opera house and then right onto V. delle Belle Arti. €4, students and seniors €2. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm.
PALAZZO COMMUNALE
P. Maggiore 6
MUSEUM
Collezioni Communali 051 21 93 526 www.comune.bologna.it/culture
Museo Morandi 051 21 93 332 www.museomorandi.it
Two museums for the price of one—and that price is zero! The Collezioni Communali d’Arte showcases art of the area around Bologna dating from the 13th through 20th centuries, while the Museo Morandi pays tribute to Bologna’s own master, Giorgio Morandi. Though acclaimed by critics, Morandi may be less appreciated by artistic neophytes encountering the numerous beige still-lifes covering these walls.
On the west side of P. Maggiore. Free. Open Tu-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm.
MUSEO CIVICO MEDIOEVALE
V. Manzoni 4
MUSEUM
051 21 93 930 www.comune.bologna.it/iperbole/museicivici
A medieval city has to store al
l its history somewhere. For Bologna, that place is here. From images and busts of the city’s patron saints to wax seals and weaponry of local nobility, this museum offers an insight into the city’s past.
Off V. dell’Indipendenza. Free. Audio tour €4. Open M-F 9am-3pm, Sa-Su 10am-6:30pm.
FOOD
Whatever locals list as Bologna’s claims to fame (admittedly, quite a lot), this city is known internationally for one thing: its food. Heard of lasagna alla bolognese? How about tortellini? Yep, both were invented here. In the centro, restaurants galore pack the side streets.