Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 149
Turn right out of the train station onto Lungomare Fegina. Free.
Vernazza
CASTELLO DORIA
V. G. Guidoni
CASTLE
The Cinque Terre and its seas were a playground for the powerful families of Vernazza early in the last millennium, and from this castle, they observed and manipulated their domain...with the help of a strategic location and some artillery. (And thank goodness someone was protecting this harbor: at one point in the 13th and 14th centuries it was the primary port exporting the region’s wine.) The power may be gone, but the view from the castle, the commanding and description-defying view, remains for all to see.
Turn left onto V. G. Guidoni and walk up many steps, following the signs for “Castello.” €1.50. All proceeds benefit local charity. Open daily 10am-7pm.
VERNAZZA PORT
P. Marconi
BEACH
Once upon a time, this minuscule inlet was home to much of the wine shipping on the Italian Riviera. Now it sees a lot of toddlers in swim diapers taking their first dip with mom and dad. The small strip of sand located right in the heart of Vernazza has no services or lifeguard, but its small size and protected water mean it remains very family friendly.
At the end of P. Marconi. Free. Open daily sunrise-sunset.
Manarola
ROCKY BEACH
At the end of V. Birolli
BEACH
A boat putters by, a swimmer uses it to screen the defender, and—he scores! Yes indeed, water polo is one of the primary pastimes—after fishing from small, enthusiastically colored boats, of course—practiced in Manarola’s compact cove. The rock face leading down from the town doesn’t dissuade swimmers from nearby homes or from two continents away, and neither does the occasional marine traffic. Sunbathers populate the hard surfaces, both slanted and flat, along the boat ramp, while more adventuresome types jump 15 ft. from the central outcropping.
Turn left from the tunnel and head down to the water on V. Birolli. Free.
MUSEO DI SCIACCHETRÀ
V. Discovolo 203
MUSEUM
This one-room museum showcases the history of the Cinque Terre region, a story very intertwined with wine. The now-famous trail linking the towns was once a trade route through which grapes, lemons, and thyme were brought to the wider world. Also, see the tools used to harvest the tens of kilos of delicate grapes needed to produce just one liter of sciacchetrà. A 15min. video on the process (available in English) is played on request.
Turn right from the tunnel; the museum is up the hill on the right. Free with Cinque Terre Card, which is required for admisison. Open daily 9:30am-1pm and 1:30-7pm.
Riomaggiore
ARTWORK OF SILVIO BENEDETTO
In P. Rio Finale, the tunnel, and all over town
PUBLIC ART
www.silviobenedetto.it
Buenos Aires native Silvio Benedetto has made it his mission to beautify Riomaggiore through monumental works of art, and all visitors to the town are beneficiaries of his project. Exploring the town, visitors will unexpectedly find Benedetto’s murals glorifying the area’s history in many places, including in the tunnel from the train station and on Riomaggiore’s municipal building.
First admire the mural outside the train station. Then proceed through the tunnel to town, focusing on the mosaic to the right, and don’t miss the tile installation outside the tunnel’s end. Above town, the municipal building on V. T. Signori also has a mural. Free.
FOOD
Monterosso
Monterosso’s food offerings are as broad and varied as can be found in the Cinque Terre. This means nothing exotic, but a selection of Italian-style restaurants from several pizzerias and Ligurian seafood shops as well as focaccerias and gelaterie lining the waterfront streets. To make a picnic, visit SuperConad Margherita. (P. Matteotti 9 Open June-Sept M-Sa 8am-1pm and 4:30-8pm, Su 8am-1pm.)
CANTINA DI SCIACCHETRÀ
V. Roma 7
WINE SHOP
0187 81 78 28
The one stop on V. Roma required for wine connoisseurs and thirsty students alike, this bottle-filled shop offers regional wines including its namesake, the world-renowned sweet wine, at dirt-cheap prices. Plus, samples are available at the lowest price of all: zero. The enthusiastic and kind English-speaking staff are always eager to pour something but will also help customers navigate the selection of marmalades and sauces (€5-10). For many backpackers, this place’s outdoor seating is the beach (just ask the staff to open the bottle before you leave).
On the left before the first underpass over V. Roma. Cinque Terre wine €5-20. Sciacchetrà €27. Open daily 9am-11pm.
RISTORANTE L’ALTAMAREA
V. Roma 54
SEAFOOD
0187 81 71 70
Fresh fish and even fresher homemade pasta are the hallmarks of this well-loved restaurant’s traditional Ligurian menu. Most locals already know the chef and his scrumptious creations, but tourists just discovering them for the first time come away equally satisfied. Fish ravioli is among the unique dishes recommended by diners and the staff alike.
On the right after the 1st underpass on V. Roma. Primi €10; secondi €14-18. Open M-Tu noon-3pm and 6-10pm, Th-Su noon-3pm and 6-10pm.
PIZZERIA LA SMORFIA
V. Vittorio Emanuele 73
PIZZERIA
0187 81 83 95
A huge selection of 50 different pizzas (and 16 white pizzas, plus 10 calzones) draws locals, including workers from other nearby restaurants, to this crowded joint. Three employees frantically wait tables, cut pizzas, and make change to keep up with the rush and calls for beer that flow from the groups of young people under the awnings. The large pizzas will feed an army. The calzones shaped like bloated croissants are filled with deliciously melty cheese and sauces.
Take the 1st left on the piazza after the tunnel onto V. Vittorio Emanuelle. The pizzeria is up on the left. Pizzas €4.50-7, large €9-14. Calzones €8. Open daily 10:30am-3pm and 6-11pm.
Vernazza
BAIA SARACENA
P. Marconi 16
PIZZERIA
0187 81 21 13 www.baiasaracena.com
The location—in an arcade next to Vernazza’s quaint fishing port—is special, and so is the pesto pizza. For just €5 (€4.50 for margherita), patrons can get a large and amazingly filling slice as well as a soda. Even when it’s raining, dozens of visitors gather with their slices to eat on the rocky sea wall as waves crash at their back. For table service (when it’s sunny), sit on the patio and savor the majestic view from a table.
Far down on the left side of the piazza, right before the seawall. Whole pizzas €6.50-8.50. Bruschetta €5-6. Salads €5-8. Open M-Th 10:30am-10:30pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-10:30pm.
BLUE MARLIN BAR
V. Roma 43
CAFE
0187 82 11 49 bluemarlin2@lycos.it
Here’s something many travelers haven’t seen in a while: eggs and bacon. And what a relief it can be to find those two staples on one’s breakfast plate, as is possible here in the heart of Vernazza. And if eggs (€4) keep Americans happy, adding sausage or bacon (€2) should really put them in hog heaven. Despite a cuisine that seems particularly suited to Uncle Sam, this bar fills with patrons of all nationalities by mid-morning and tends not to empty out until just before closing, when the day’s first meal is a distant memory.
Down the hill from the train station; on the right. Pastries €1. Bruschetta €3-4. Pizza €5-7. Espresso drinks €1-2. Open daily 7am-6:30pm. Hot breakfast served 8:40-11:30am.
Corniglia
As a waypoint for backpackers, Corniglia offers a number of simple but satisfying dining options as well as several sit-down restaurants catering to those staying in town.
LA GATA FLORA
V. Fieschi 109
PIZZERIA
0187 82 12 18
Once the trail-fatigued backpacker realizes it’s not vertigo that’s making her see pots and pans hanging from
the ceiling—they’ve been recycled as lights—she must deal with another sight quite uncommon in these parts: a rectangular pizza. Yes, with corners. The thick crust makes a filling meal, while the focaccia, also square, with toppings including tomato and olives can hold you over as a tasty snack.
From centro storico, turn right onto V. Fieschi; the pizzeria will be on the left. Whole pizzas €4.50-7, slices €2.50-3.50. Focaccia €1.80-3. Open M 10am-3pm and 6-8pm, W-Su 10am-3pm and 6-8pm.
CANTINA DI MANANAN
V. Fieschi 117
RISTORANTE
0187 82 11 66
Whether it’s a desire to create exclusivity or a European dislike of working that keeps this restaurant open for just over 4hr. per day doesn’t really matter: make time to visit the small stone-walled restaurant during its operating hours. The front entrance is covered in chalkboards scrawled with the dishes of the day, including the popular stuffed pastas.
From centro storico, turn right onto V. Fieschi; the restaurant will be on the left. Cover €1.80. Primi €10-12; secondi €12-18. Open M 12:45-2:30pm and 7:45-9:15pm, W-Su 12:45-2:30pm and 7:45-9:15pm.
Manarola
TRATTORIA DAL BILLY
V. Rollandi 122
RISTORANTE
0187 92 06 28
The long hike up the steep road to reach this place is worth it—locals love the fresh seafood (caught by a fisherman whose gleaming mug adorns the walls) and homemade Ligurian pastas.
Turn right from the tunnel, then follow the road uphill 300m to the church piazza. Then turn right up the steps at the far side of the piazza and follow the small street to the trattoria. Cover €2. Primi €6-10; secondi €9-17. Open M-F noon-2:30 and 6-10:30pm, Th 6-10:30pm, F-Su noon-2: 30pm and 6-10:30pm.
LA CAMBUSA
V. Birolli 110
PIZZERIA
0187 92 10 29
The display case is always full. Maybe that’s because there are so many choices that no customer can bear to pick just one dish. Beneath the hand-painted sign and fake ivy of this seatless establishment (not counting a few benches outside) every bread product and delicacy known to humanity awaits, from cannoli (€1) and pastries to focaccia with tons of different toppings.
Turn left from the tunnel and cross the piazza. The pizzeria is on the right. Focaccia €1.80-2. 50. Panini €3. Pizza slices €2. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Riomaggiore
TE LA DO IO LA MERENDA
V. Colombo 161
PIZZERIA, TAKEOUT
0187 92 01 48
Can the menu at this tiny hole-in-the-wall takeout joint get any bigger? Sure it can: the staff hangs handwritten pages of new dishes and specials all over the outside and from the clotheslines inside. Serving more than typical pizza and pasta, this quick and scrumptious spot draws patrons all day with local specialities including crispy farinata and vegetarian Ligurian pastas, even without giving their hungry guests a single place to sit down.
At the bend in V. Colombo, on the right. Medium pizzas €5-7, slices €2-3. Ligurian dishes to go €5-8. Open daily 8am-8pm.
DAU CILA
V. San Giacomo 65
SEAFOOD
0187 76 00 32
Some townspeople say that this is not only their favorite restaurant in town, but it is also the only restaurant that serves fresh fish brought into the town’s harbor. While that’s probably not true, great fresh fish is certainly to be had.
From the tunnel, take the steps down toward “Marina.” Once outside, Dau Cila is on the left. Salads and primi €9-12; secondi €12-18. Open daily noon-3pm and 6-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Don’t expect to find much of anything going on after sundown in the smaller villages of Vernazza and Corniglia. But in the bigger towns there are quite a few bars populated by more than quite a few backpackers.
Monterosso
FAST BAR
V. Roma 13
BAR
0187 81 71 64
It’s fast times at Cinque Terre in this all-American bar, where it is the rare customer who speaks Italian rather than English. Visiting students chat at tables and mingle by the bar over draft beers and colorful cocktails sipped from long neon straws (apparently they weren’t flashy enough already).
After exiting the tunnel, pass under the railroad bridge and head left onto V. Roma. The bar will be on the left. Shots €3. Beer €4-4.50. Cocktails €5-6. Open daily 10am-2am. Aperitivo 6:30-8pm. Closed 2 weeks in Dec and all of Jan.
CA DI SCIENSA
P. Garibaldi 17
BAR
0187 81 82 33
Don’t worry about missing any of the action of the sporting world at Ca di Sciensa. TVs are everywhere you go and every way they come—outside, upstairs, flatscreen, big-screen, and even vintage versions with knobs. Join your friends in the extensive but frequently full outdoor seating for once-a-week live music.
From the tunnel, walk along the opposite side of the railroad bridge to P. Garibaldi. Beer €2-4. Cocktails €5. Sandwiches €5. Open May-Sept daily 10:30am-2am; Oct-Apr M 10:30am-2am, + W-Su 10:30am-2am. Aperitivo 7-8:30pm.
Manarola
The Cinque Terre’s undiscovered hotspot is here in Manarola, but it’s close to the only game in town.
LA CANTINA DA ZIO BRAMANTE
V. Birolli 110
BAR
0187 76 20 61
How much more fun would elementary school music class have been with a few bottles of wine? Ignore the flagrant illegality of that proposal for a moment, then look to this cantina for the answers. The owner and friends jam on the guitar (or didgeridoo) nightly at the front of the room cluttered with microphones, amps, and songbooks.
Turn left from the tunnel and cross the piazza; it is on the right. Wine €2.50-4.50. Cocktails €5-6. Open M-W 9:30am-1am, F-Su 9:30am-1am.
Riomaggiore
Not to be confused with that other Rio (look a few thousand miles west), this Cinque Terre town certainly lacks a hard-partying club scene, but has a couple of nice bars.
BAR CENTRALE
V. Colombo 144
BAR
0187 92 02 08
The central gathering point for Riomaggiore’s visiting international crowd isn’t much to see on its own (except for caffeine-junkies itching to see its high-tech espresso machine). When the people start flowing in and the backpacker crowd begins to swap travel tales, however, it becomes easy to see why visitors return night after night.
Up V. Colombo on the left. Beer €3.50-5. Cocktails €5.50-7. Open daily 7am-1am.
A PIE DE MA, BAR AND VINI
V. dell’Amore
BAR
0187 92 10 37
Who knows how many lovers have taken a break from smooching on the path above for a cocktail overlooking the sea—a pretty romantic location in itself? The A Pie de Ma drinks can’t hurt the relationship either.
From the train station, take the steps up to V. dell’Amore. Turn right at the sign just before the ticket booth. Live music most F-Sa at 9pm or 9:30pm. Wine €2-6. Beer €2.50-4.50. Cocktails €5-6. Open daily 10am-midnight.
HIKING
The trails connecting the five villages were once used to carry grapes and wine from the vineyards that fill the hilltops. Today they offer the chance for a spectactularly beautiful and not especially difficult hike. The tourist office says it should take five hours, experienced hikers say four hours or less.
Monterosso To Vernazza
The hike from Monterosso to Vernazza (90min.) is the most challenging of the four town-linking hikes, but without question, the pain is worth the gain: breathtaking vistas of the towns and spectacular panoramas of the sea crown the uphill journey. There are rocky and uneven steps at both ends of the trail, but in between the trail becomes a relatively flat track notable for its wildflowers, butterflies, and gorgeous views over terraced vineyards back to Monterosso.
Vernazza To Corniglia
The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia (75min.), while still difficult due to a significant
number of steps throughout, is more open than the previous walk. It begins along a wide trail with continuous views of the ocean over a brush-covered hill. With less shade comes more cacti (in Italy, who knew?). The hike’s most impressive point is near Marker 15, over 200m up, where the trail overlooks Corniglia—itself a city on a hill—with Manarola’s orange and pink hues standing out against the many azure inlets in the distance.