Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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OSTERIA DELL’ORSA
V. Mentana 1/F
RISTORANTE
051 23 15 76 www.osteriadellorsa.com
It’s a new day, and that means a new pasta at Osteria dell’Orso, which specializes in Bolognese cuisine at tremendously affordable prices. Sit down with friends or strike up a conversation with the next group at the long benches of the several communal tables that constitute three quarters of the restaurant’s indoor seating. The pasta menu changes daily, but a wide variety of panini (€4-5) and crostini (€4) are always available. Though “Orsa” means bear—as the osteria’s logo will show—we’re feeling bullish that this place will satisfy any eater.
From P. Nettuno, take V. dell’Indipendenza, then turn right onto V. Marsala and left onto V. Metana. Entrees €6-10. Open daily noon-1am.
SPACCA NAPOLI
V. San Vitale 45/A
PIZZERIA
051 199 80 262
Diners at this sit-down pizza joint relax surrounded by kitschy fake bricks, but fear not: they’re soon living the dream in a separate world of crisp, doughy crust and melty mozzarella (plus whatever toppings they’ve added on).
Head down V. San Vitale from the 2 towers. Pizza €3-7.50. Primi and secondi €7-10. Open M-F noon-2:30pm and 7pm-midnight, Sa-Su 7pm-midnight.
TRATTORIA ANNA MARIA
V. Belle Arti 17/A
RISTORANTE
051 26 68 94 www.trattoriaannamaria.com
Anna Maria has been instructing her chefs to use the freshest ingredients to make traditional Bolognese dishes for 20 years. No one’s complaining about taking her orders, because clearly it’s working. The restaurant’s walls are covered in letters from satisfied diners as well as articles about the cuisine.
From the 2 towers, take V. Zamboni, turning left onto V. Castagnoli at the opera house. Then make a right onto V. Belle Arti. Cover €3. Primi €13-14; secondi €11-14. Open Tu-Su noon-3pm and 7-11:30pm.
PIZZERIA TRATTORIA BELFIORE
V. Marsala 11/A
PIZZERIA
051 22 66 41
Pizza’s bargain basement—at street level, and with outdoor seating! The pizza is great and a great deal at this small, wood-paneled sit-down joint. The menu also features a number of pastas.
Just off V. Indipendenza. Cover €2. Pizza €2.60-6. Primi €6.50-7.50; secondi €7-9. Open M 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30pm-12:30am, W-Su 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30pm-12:30am.
AMBASCIATORI
V. Orefici 19
RISTORANTE
051 22 01 31 www.liberie.coop.it
Here two of Bologna’s favorite things, books and food, can be found in one place. In a quirky juxtaposition, Ambascatori places three restaurants on three floors amid shelves of Italian-language novels and memoirs. Bags of pasta for sale sit next to shelves of books on cooking pasta.
Take V. Rizzoli away from P. Nettuno and turn right onto V. Orefici. Panini €3.50-4.50. Primi €8-10; secondi €9-15. Eateries open daily 7am-midnight. Bookstore open daily 9am-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
One hundred thousand students require a lot of booze. Bologna provides generously, with a vast selection of bars, pubs, and nightclubs. Via Zamboni is student central and home to a mass of nightspots, while across town, Via del Pratello hosts a slightly older and more subdued crowd at its own multitude of watering holes. In summer, nightclubs close, and the partying moves to a number of outdoor discos, particularly in Parco Magherita, south of the city.
COLLEGE BAR
Largo Respighi 6/D
BAR
051 34 90 03 73 66
Cheap drinks and outdoor seating draw students to this small but packed watering hole. Books above the bar attempt a scholarly air, but it is fair to say that studying is on few people’s minds here. Special deals appeal to many—six shots for €5 is sure to get the night off to a fast start. Couples make increasing use of the couches in the dark back room as the night gets older.
Take V. Zamboni and turn left before the opera house. The bar is on the left. Beer €3-5. Cocktails €4. Open M-F noon-3am, Sa-Su 6pm-3am.
CLURICAUNE
V. Zamboni 18/B
IRISH PUB
051 26 34 19
The best Irish pub in Bologna—just ask an Irishman. (And there are only—only!—six of them. Pubs that is, not Irishmen.) Students and groups of expats gather to watch every soccer game and converse over their choice of one of the eight beers (€4.50; Guinness €5) on tap.
Take V. Zamboni from the 2 towers. Cocktails €5.50. Open June-Aug M-Th noon-2am, F-Sa noon-2:30am; Sept-May daily 4pm-2am.
ALTO TASSO
P. San Franceso 6/D
ENOTECA
051 40 88 06 79 www.altotasso.com
As well as providing for thirsty students—a task this bar carries out well—Alto Tasso puts a lot of effort into showcasing the art on its walls. It’s a bright display that rotates among young, local artists every two weeks.
Take V. Ugo Bassi and make a slight left onto V. Pratello, then the first left to V. San Francesco. Wine €2-5. Beer €2.50-5. Cocktails €5. Open M-Th 4:30pm-2:30am, F-Sa 4:30pm-3am, Su 4:30pm-2:30am.
CASSERO
V. Don Minzoni 18
CLUB
051 649 4416 www.cassero.it
A cavernous dance floor and thumping beat inside plus a vast, sunken piazza for dancing, carousing, and occasional live music outside add up to plenty of space for the locals and students who frequent this popular party spot, Bologna’s best-known gay and lesbian club.
Take V. Marconi to P. dei Martiri and turn left onto V. Don Minzoni. Cover M-Tu €10, W €3, Th-Su €10. Beer €3. Cocktails €7. €15 ARCI-GAY card required for entrance. Open daily in summer 7pm-6am; in fall, winter, and spring 9pm-6am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: IAT provides information on sights and the city. Walking and bus tours start here. (P. Maggiore 1/E 051 23 96 60 In Palazzo di Podesta. Open daily 9am-7pm.) Bolognaincoming books hotels, but not hostels. (P. Maggiore 1/E 800 85 60 65 www.bolognaincoming.it Located inside the tourist office. Open daily 9am-7pm.)
• INTERNET: Sportello Iperbole provides free Wi-Fi, limited rather generously to 3hr. per day, and internet access limited a little less generously to 2hr. per week on non-personal computers. (P. Maggiore 6 051 20 31 84 In Palazzo Comunale. Reserve ahead for Wi-Fi. Open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-2pm and 3-7pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: (P. Galileo 7 051 16 40 11 11).
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACY: Farmacia Communali. (P. Maggiore 6 051 23 85 09 In Palazzo Communale. Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Policlinco San Orsala Malpighi. (V. Pietro Albertoni 15 051 63 61 111 www.aosp.bo.it Follow V. San Vitale to V. Massereti and turn left.)
Getting There
By Plane
Aeroporto Guglielmo Marconi (BLQ) (051 647 9615 www.bologna-airport.it) is northwest of the city center. ATC operates the Aerobus (051 29 02 90), which runs from the airport to the train station’s track D, with several stops in the centro along V. Ugo Bassi. ( €5. Every 15min. 6am-12:15am.)
By Train
Stazione Centrale, in the north of the centro, is the main point of arrival. Trains arrive from Milan ( From €19. 2-3hr., 2 per hr. 5:15am-11am.), Florence ( €24. 90min., 2 per hr. 7:15am-10:30pm.), Rome ( From €36. 3hr., 2 per hr. 7:15am-10:30pm.), and Venice ( €15. 2hr., every 30min.-1hr. 5:57am-11:11pm.)
cinque terre
0187
Once an undiscovered paradise, the Cinque Terre now offers a break to backpackers tired of city-hopping through Europe. Frequent train service makes the five charming cliffside villages that dot this stretch of the Italian Riviera easily accessible, yet the region’s unique landscape, characterized by terraces built up over thousands of years of grape and citrus farming, prevents this Italian Shangri-La from becoming a tourism-fueled playground-by-the-sea. Yes, out-of-town visitors now account for a large majority of the summertime population
, and English at times feels like the area’s first language. But visitors willing to trek along the trails that connect the region’s five towns find that a number of unrivaled vistas and secluded beaches remain.
It would be a lie and a cliché to say that, in the Cinque Terre, there’s not a car in sight. They’re here, along with scooters and motorboats too. But in the face of all the beachfront hustle and tourist bustle, it’s still possible to slip away into the vineyards, look down on the towns, and witness the beauty and majesty that make the Cinque Terre seem too perfect to be real.
ORIENTATION
Part of the pleasure of exploring the five towns that give Cinque Terre its name comes from getting to know each of the five coastal towns’ distinct personalities. Furthest north, Monterosso is blessed with a welcoming expanse of sand, making it a perfect modern beach town. Vernazza is the quieter but more beautiful sister by the sea. Hilltop Corniglia is tiny and withdrawn from the tourist circuit but offers the most stunning vistas of all five towns, but no beach and few practical services. Manarola has the best (and wackiest) swim spot. Finally, Riomaggiore is larger and beachless, but sees backpackers trying, successfully or not, to find last-minute rooms.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Most hotels can be found in the large towns at either end of the Cinque Terre: Monterosso and Riomaggiore, with a few options dotted in between. Across the five villages you’ll easily find affittacamere, apartments let out by locals on a short term basis. They often offer cheap and extremely pleasant living quarters.
Monterosso
Monterosso contains most of the Cinque Terre’s hotels—probably as many as fill all the other villages combined.
HOTEL SOUVENIR
V. Gioberti 24
HOTEL
0187 81 75 95
Though the owners urge their guests to party on the beach, the groups of backpack-lugging students who stay at Souvenir seem content to hang out in the in the hotel’s large and comfortable rooms, many with bunk beds to accommodate bigger groups.
Head up V. Roma from the waterfront; turn right onto V. Gioberti, and walk to the end. Dorms €25-35; singles €45.
HOTEL AMICI
V. Buranco 36
HOTEL
0187 81 75 44 www.hotelamici.it
Far, far away from the touristed world of Monterosso, there is a secret garden of terraces, citrus trees, and bright flowers. That garden just happens to be this hotel’s roof. After going up five floors in the elevator, guests can keep going up and up through the foliage if the lounge chairs and patio tables aren’t good enough. The hotel also has spacious rooms with large bathrooms to match.
From the waterfront, take V. Emanuele to P. Matteotti, turning left onto V. Buranco. Hotel has a large sign on the right. Breakfast included. Wi-Fi €2.50 per hr., €3.50 per 2hr. Bed in doubles or triples €50-70; singles €60-80. €5 surcharge per night for stays under 3 nights.
Vernazza
With a few exceptions, Vernazza’s accommodations are almost all rental rooms owned by private citizens. Look for signs advertising camere in front of stores, restaurants, and doorways all over town.
ALBERGO BARBARA
P. Marconi 30, top fl.
HOTEL
0187 81 23 98 www.albergobarbara.it
Ahoy there! Lifting that giant suitcase up a spiral staircase with only a rope to cling to may not be fun (though it really makes the nautical theme work), but it’s worth it to get to the rooms above. Many have sea views and wooden rafters, and even those that look out the back are bright and airy.
To the right when coming from V. Roma. No elevator. Several flights up. Doubles €50, with bath €60-65, with sea view €100. Closed Dec-Feb. Check-in until 5pm; later, call ahead.
Corniglia
Although Corniglia is best as a daytrip because of its small size and inconvenient hilltop location, there are a number of affittacamere that tend to be more affordable than those in other towns.
OSTELLO CORNIGLIA
V. alla Stazione 3
HOSTEL
0187 81 25 59 www.ostellocorniglia.com
Among a sea of signs advertising rooms, the bright yellow ostello stands out, and for good reason. This two-year-old, 24-bed hostel offers the most affordable accommodations in town, with colorful common spaces to match.
In the yellow building to the right before the centro storico. Breakfast €3. Single-sex 8-person dorms €24; doubles €55. Extra bed €20.
Manarola
OSTELLO CINQUE TERRE
V. Riccobaldi 21
HOSTEL
0187 92 02 15 www.hostel5terre.com
It may have a summer camp atmosphere, but this is no wood-board bunkhouse. All rooms look out over Manarola and the sea beyond, and an airy restaurant with terrace serves as a gathering spot. What’s more, an extensive board game collection and snorkel equipment for rent keep patrons entertained.
From the train station tunnel, turn right and walk 300m uphill to the church, where the hostel will be to the left. Wi-Fi €1 per 15min. 6-bed dorms €23; doubles €65; quads €100. Reception 7am-1pm and 4pm-1am. Lockout 10am-5pm. Closed Nov-Feb.
CAPELLINI AFFITICAMERE
V. Birolli 88
AFFITTACAMERE
0187 92 04 10
Although she doesn’t own a computer, the kind, motherly keeper of these simple but comfortable rooms literally goes out of her way to make guests feel at home, as she has to descend from the fourth floor for every request. The rooms, on Manarola’s main street, each have a few pieces of antique furniture like leather armchairs, plus a table, chairs, and fridge: perfect for a quiet night in.
Turn left from the tunnel, over the piazza; the property is on the right. Doubles €60; triples €75.
Riomaggiore
At the extreme end of Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore has more than its fair share of room rentals and locande (inns), meaning that this is the best place to look for last-minute lodging (though that doesn’t guarantee anything will be available if you arrive in mid- to late summer). Most hotels and room rentals are on Via Colombo, but looking on a few back streets and above the town center can yield rewards.
MAR-MAR
V. Malborghetto 4
AFFITTACAMERE
0187 92 09 32 www.5terre-marmar.com
Talk about assorted flavors—from student dorms to vast apartments, this room rental company seems to have it all. Each room includes an ensuite bath, but beyond that, little is shared by the 30 different properties. Some have TV, others balconies, and prices vary accordingly. Those who choose to spend less can still benefit from the community terrace, a space for all renters that overlooks the water.
After the tunnel, turn left up V. Colombo. Mar-Mar is ahead on the left. Dorms €15-20; doubles and apartments €60-120. Office open daily 9am-1pm and 2-5pm.
EDI
V. Colombo 111
AFFITTACAMERE
0187 92 03 25
With many boasting full kitchens and terraces, Edi’s apartments are dressed to impress and priced to please. (One-bedroom apartments with living room and bathtub for €60?! It’s a real possibility.) The best deals, however, are on the couple of rooms reserved for young people, which include many of the same amenities—minus the sea view, but you can find that at the beach—for even lower rates.
From the tunnel, head about halfway up V. Colombo, where Edi is on the right. Student rooms for 2-3 people €50-75; doubles €60-100; apartments €60-180.
LOCANDA DALLA COMPAGNIA
V. del Santaurio 32
B AND B
0187 76 00 50 www.dallacompagnia.it
The most popular accessory at this cheery bed and breakfast should probably be a skateboard for guests to zoom down the steep hill of V. Colombo. Though perched at the top of the road, this locanda is still only minutes (perhaps seconds for those on wheels) from the water and restaurants in the lower end of the town. It features five brightly colored rooms and an open breakfast area as well as a few “mini-apart
ments” farther from the main building but with similar amenities.
At the top of V. Colombo, in the small piazza on the right. Breakfast included in most rates. Doubles outside the hotel €30-50, in main building €60-100. Small discount for payment in cash. Check-in noon-6pm.
SIGHTS
Beaches and hike routes are the most important sights to be found in the Cinque Terre. You’ll also find a few charming spots with great views, and the odd remnant of the area’s history as an important trading post.
Monterosso
IL GIGANTE
V. Mollina, near V. Fegina
MONUMENT, BEACH
He’s the best-looking lifeguard on the beach. Too bad he’s so hard to get into bed. That’s because he’s a stone giant carved from a cliff, watching over one of Monterosso’s free beaches. Beyond the giant’s gaze, you’ll be able to view more of the town’s public shores, the most of any of the Cinque Terre towns. The uncontrolled stretches tend to be mixed in with roped-off private areas for hotel guests and paying customers. Look for the ingresso libero signs by the stairs or beach access to be sure that no cabana boys will come chasing you down with a bill.