Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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By Taxi
A number of companies operate the city’s white taxis (081 88 88; 081 570 70 70; 081 55 60 202; 081 55 15 151). Only take official, licensed taxis with meters and always ask about prices upfront.
pompeii pompei
Sailing around the Bay of Naples, you’ll see Mt. Vesuvius from nearly all vistas. It lurks formidably as though to say, “Don’t forget about me.” Well, given the crowds that stream to Pompeii annually, we hardly think the massive volcano is being forgotten (even if it has been dormant more than half a century.) On August 24, 79 CE, it earned its infamy, erupting and blanketing the nearby city of Pompeii in a cloud of ash. Tragic though the eruption was for the residents of this ancient metropolis, the preservation of its streets, artifacts, and even people is unparalleled, making this frozen snippet of life nearly two millennia ago a gold mine for archaeologists and a sort of morbid historical “playground” for tourists.
SIGHTS
For the price of one ticket at Pompeii, you’ll have the run of an entire ancient city, but that doesn’t mean touring the ruins is a simple undertaking. Pompeii was a true metropolis, complete with basilicas, bars, and brothels, and that kind of scope can be intimidating. Rather than taking any kind of tour, one of the most fun ways to experience Pompeii is to navigate its maze-like streets solo—you’ll likely get lost even with a map. Before heading out, pick up a free map and guidebook at the info office by showing your ticket. (€11, EU citizens age 18-24 €5.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Valid 1 day; no re-entry. Ruins open daily Apr-Oct 8:30am-7:30pm; Nov-Mar 8:30am-5pm.) Of course, the pleasure of going it alone can be mitigated when the city is packed, and at times it’s hard to walk down one of Pompeii’s cobbled streets without running into another visitor. Come in the early summer or fall for slightly less crowded circumstances.
Near the Forum
Entering from Porta Marina, you first hit the Basilica, the remains of a building originally used for legal purposes and business matters. Now an open space occupied by columns that resemble tree stumps, it’s a small taste of the many columned structures to come. To the left is the grassy Forum, the first-century city’s political, religious, and economic center. Head to the Granai del Foro on the left for a startling peek at four body casts created by pouring plaster into air pockets in the ash that were formed by disintegrated bodies. You may not be able to tell that one of them is a dog, but the three human figures, one of whom is a pregnant woman, are contorted in heart-wrenching positions of fear. As this area is closest to the main entrance and the cafeteria, it is predictably the most crowded. Head elsewhere for a quieter walk.
Near the House of the Faun
The wide V. delle Terme and V. della Fortuna surround the area around the stunning Casa del Fauno, the biggest and perhaps best preserved residence in the ruins. Your attention will undoubtedly be drawn to the bronze faun statue at the house’s center, but don’t miss the mosaic-covered surrounding rooms—unfortunately, these mosaics can only partially make up for the absent Alexander mosaic now displayed at the Naples Museo Archeologico Nazionale. At the time of its discovery, that tiled decoration suggested some relation between the house’s wealthy owner and Alexander the Great.
Near the Brothel
While all of Pompeii’s ruins are full of strolling tourists, none are as packed as the Lupanare, the ancient city’s brothel. Looks like it’s just as popular now as it was centuries ago. If you can squeak past the tourist groups, take notice of the explicit frescoes lining the walls, which show popular bedroom positions as a source of “inspiration” for the men who frequented the place. Nearby, the large Stabian Baths feature a body cast and a wall of impressive mosaics.
Near the Amphitheater
That big green block on your map indicates the amphitheater, a massive structure that could hold 20,000 spectators and hosted Colosseum-like gladiator battles in its day. Much quieter now, the arena stands as another vivid reminder of what this city used to be. The adjacent Great Palaestra provides a nice break from the hard-to-navigate stone blocks scattered about the rest of the city and some shade under its trees. Less serene is the Garden of the Fugitives, where you’ll find more plaster casts of the bodies of individuals who didn’t flee the city in time.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Tourist Offices (www.pompeiturismo.it Open daily 8:30am-6:30pm.) are located at the Circumvesuviana station (081 85 07 255) and at V. Sacra 1 (081 536 32 93).
Getting There
The best way to get to Pompeii’s archaeological site is by the Circumvesuviana train from Naples’s Stazione Centrale ( €2.40. 20-30min., every 15min.) or from Sorrento.
( €1.90. 20-30min., every 20min.) Get off at Pompei Scavi. From the train, the ruins’ main entrance, Porta Marina, is to the right. If you proceed onward down V. Villa dei Misteri, you can enter at the less crowded entrance at Piazza Esedra.
herculaneum ercolano
Once you’ve gotten over Herculaneum’s hard-to-pronounce name, there’s very little to begrudge this delightful ancient Roman town. A smaller archaeological site than the more famous Pompeii, Herculaneum is much easier on the sightseer than its big sib—you can cover its grounds in an afternoon without fatigue or boredom ever setting in. Not only is it better preserved and less crowded than good old Pompy, but it’s also situated in a beautiful natural enclave. Sparkling water less than 1 mi. away and lush green trees surrounding the ruins make Herculaneum worth a daytrip even if you’re not an archaeological fanatic. Best of all, the modern city that cradles the ancient one has not become a tourist trap, meaning you’ll find plenty of residential life, shops, and cheap restaurants if you want to spend the afternoon. Slow down and gear up for this undiscovered lost city.
SIGHTS
HERCULANEUM (ERCOLANO SCAVI)
At the intersection of C. Resina and V. IV Novembre
ANCIENT ROME
081 732 4338 www.pompeiisites.org
Herculaneum is a city upon a city. You’ll know you’ve reached the ancient Ercolano when cotton-candy pink houses suddenly cede to dusty, copper-colored ones. Even before buying a ticket to enter the ruins, take a moment to look around. The public walkway leading to the information desk provides one of the best views of the city in its entirety. To the right is the 4.5 hectare region open to the public. (Another 16 or so hectares are not visible.) From this elevation, you get the best sense of how deeply the city was buried by the explosion and of how much was vertically preserved. About 16m of pyroclastic rock covered the region, making its second-story structures even better preserved than those of Pompeii.
Though this city is smaller than Pompeii, you could easily spend hours exploring its nooks and crannies. Make sure not to miss the Casa del Tramezzo di Legno, one of the site’s largest and most detailed complexes: large frescoes, a marble table at its center, and wooden dividers give the room its name. The Casa della Cervi (House of the Deers) is a bit like a museum: still-life frescoes (now covered in Plexiglas) line the walkway, while the central courtyard was once home to life-size statues depicting dogs destroying deers. (No evidence that Herculaneum’s citizens were alliteration authorities.) Not only were they artistically inclined, but the people of Herculaneum knew how to live: the Larga Taberna contains a series of holes that were used for serving food and wine. They cleaned themselves in style too—the Terme Suburbane (Suburban Baths) is a three-room complex whose middle area contains an intricate black-and-white mosaic on its floor.
Appreciate the age of this sight, but allow the modernity that rubs up against old Herculaneum to enrich your experience of the ancient town. Rooftops of modern dwellings peek out beyond the ruins’ perimeter, and the sounds of city residents penetrate the otherwise silent streets of the remains. Like a remarkable mini-Rome, where rubble and modern brick live side by side, Herculaneum is maybe not as much a city upon a city, as it is two cities in one.
€11, EU citizens ages 18-24 €5.50, EU citizens under 1
8 or over 65 free. Audio tour €6.50, 2 for €10. Open daily Apr- Oct 8:30am-7pm; Nov-Mar 8:30am-5pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: (V. IV Novembre 82 081 78 81 243 www.comune.ercolano.na.it 3min. down the hill from the train station. Open M-Sa 8am-6pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Carabinieri (V. Nicolo Marcello Venuti 30 081 77 76 022). Local Police (081 78 81 400). State Police (081 78 87 111).
Getting There
Take the Circumvesuviana train from Naples’s Stazione Centrale to Ercolano Scavi ( €1.80. 17min., every 15min.) or head to the same destination from Sorrento. ( €1.90. 45min.) From the station, head downhill 500m to the main gate.
capri
081
Capri certainly qualifies as an oasis. Before even landing at its dock, visitors have their cameras going, snapping postcard shots of the aquamarine water and pastel houses dotting the island’s cliffs. Pebble beaches, stunning vistas, and rocky hikes add to this escape’s at times unbelievable beauty. Yet walking around the narrow streets of the isle’s residential area, you may feel as though you’re in a Disneyland for the Bill Gateses of this world.
ORIENTATION
The Isle of Capri consists of two towns: Capri, closer to the port, and Anacapri, higher up and further west. Capri centers on Piazza Umberto I. Radiating from here, the main streets are Via Roma (mostly practical stores), Via Vittorio Emanuele (designer shops), Via Botteghe, and Via Longano (mostly restaurants). Take the bus uphill to get to Anacapri, it will drop you off in Piazza Vittoria, the town’s center. Most of the action is down the long Via Giuseppe Orlandi, which is full of restaurants, merchants, and most of the interesting places to visit.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Rooms in both Capri and Anacapri are pricey year-round, thanks to the popularity of the lovely island they call home. The most conveniently located hotels also tend to be the most expensive, making any stay here at least a bit of a splurge.
HOTEL QUATTRO STAGIONI
V. Marina Piccola 1
HOTEL
081 83 70 041 www.hotel4stagionicapri.com
The humorous and hospitable staff make this one of the sunniest spots on the island, even if its look isn’t as refined as other options. Simple furnishings, a removed location, and quiet but sunny rooms make Quattro Stagioni a break from the glitz of the centro.
Bus to V. Marina Piccola. Singles €40-70; doubles €70-130. 10% Let’s Go discount.
VILLA PALOMBA
V. Mulo 3
B AND B
081 83 77 322
Possibly the best deal on the island if you can manage the slight trek to get here. A vine-covered patio with great views gives you plenty of relaxing space, while the wicker furniture and flower-decorated sheets’ old-fashioned feel matches the motherly attention paid to you by the hostess.
From V. Marina Piccola, walk down stairs on the right onto V. Mulo; walk through tunnel and slightly downhill, following signs. A/C €10 per day. Singles €45-65; doubles €80-130.
VILLA MIMOSA BED AND BREAKFAST
V. Nuova del Faro 48/A
B AND B
081 83 71 752 www.mimosacapri.com
Anacapri might already resemble a fairy-tale land, but if you had any doubts, Villa Mimosa’s hanging bird cages and antique sculptures adorning the garden will do the trick. Rooms are equipped with private terraces.
100m down the hill on the right from the last stop of the Marina Grande-Anacapri bus. Doubles €70-100.
HOTEL IL PORTICO
V. Truglio 1/C
HOTEL
338 18 28 700 www.ilporticocapri.com
Ideally located between the port and Capri’s centro, this spot offers the reliability of a hotel and the feel of a bed and breakfast. Sparkling clean rooms (and since they’re white, you can tell) smell like flowers and, if you step out onto the balcony, the sea.
Off V. Marina Grande on the way to Capri’s centro. Doubles €80-160; triples €140-190.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Beyond Capri’s rampant commercialism lies its stunning natural beauty—and that’s the best reason to come. Most hikes are hilly but not terribly rugged, making a pair of sneakers enough for hitting the paths. The Arco Naturale, a triumphant stone arch, can be reached by starting in P. Umberto I, heading down V. le Botteghe, and finally veering right onto V. Matermania. Head down a steep staircase, and you’ll hit the spot. Turn back around and make your way left, passing the Grotta di Matermania and the Villa Malaparte, a rare work of modern architecture. When the road opens out onto V. Pizzolungo, the Faraglione, Capri’s famous three rocks, is around the way. The walk is about 1½hr. Head to the tourist office for detailed maps of other suggested hikes.
GROTTA AZZURRA
On the island’s northwest coast, below Anacapri
CAVE
081 83 70 973
Despite being blue, this is Capri’s golden star—and when we say blue, we mean swimming-pool aquamarine. The walls of this water-filled cave shimmer almost artificially when sunlight beams through from beneath the water’s surface. Roman statues were discovered here and legend has it that spirits reside in the caves—if the authorities don’t catch you taking a prohibited swim, maybe the ghosts will.
Take the bus from Anacapri to Grotta Azzurra leaving from Vle. de Tommaso (15min., every 10-20min. 6:30am-10:30pm). Once there, catch a Cooperativa Battellieri rowboat to the entrance. Cooperativa Battellieri boat €7.50. Entry €4. Last boat at 5pm.
MONTE SOLARO
V. Caposcuro 10
PANORAMIC VIEWS
081 83 71 428 www.capriseggiovia.it
It might be nearly as expensive as the ferry to Capri, but the ascent 589m above the island is worth it. For 13min., titillate or tremble as your chairlift climbs up to the summit. From the island’s highest point, you can enjoy an unrivaled panorama of land and sea: Ischia, Naples, and the Appenines loom in the distance, though standing there you wouldn’t wish yourself anywhere else.
The chair lift leaves from V. Caposcuro 10, just off P. Vittoria in Anacapri. Round-trip €9. Ticket office open 9:30am-5pm. Last ride to Monte Solaro at 5pm; last ride back at 5:30pm.
FOOD
Capri is famous for the Caprese salad—rich mozzarella balls tossed with sweet red tomatoes and fresh basil. Limoncello, a lemon-flavored yellow liqueur, seems to epitomize the island’s sweetness and bright feel. It’s hard to find a budget meal here, but cafes often have decently priced panini to tide you over. Anacapri is generally more budget-friendly.
PASTICCERIA GELATERIA SAN NICOLA
V. San Nicola 7
BAKERY, GELATERIA
081 83 72 199
Size does matter. What this shop lacks in square footage, it makes up for in the size of its pastries. Unlike more glamorous spots, this closet-sized bakery makes treats that are actually fresh and well-priced.
In Anacapri. Take V. Giuseppe Orlandi away from P. Vittoria and turn right onto V. San Nicola. Pastries €0.80-3. Cannoli €1.50. Gelato €2.50-3. Open daily 7am-9pm.
TRATTORIA IL SOLITARIO
V. Giuseppe Orlandi 96
PIZZERIA
081 83 71 382 www.trattoriailsolitario.it
Tucked away behind a garden and with its own garden inside, this pizzeria feels miles away from the commerical flare of Anacapri. It has probably the best prices on the island for a sit-down pizza, yet it isn’t lacking in flavor or creativity.
A short walk down V. Giuseppe Orlandi from P. Vittoria. Cover €1.50. Pizza €3.50-8. Primi €5.50-15. Caprese salad €6. Open in summer daily noon-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm; in fall, winter, and spring M noon-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm, W-Su noon-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm
TINELLO
V. L’Abate 3
SEAFOOD
081 83 76 578
Finally, a restaurant without a photo-supplemented (dear Italy: we know what pasta carbonara is; we don’t need a picture), touristic, or pages-long menu: this tiny spot feels like it co
uld be in an old city center rather than ritzy Capri. The only thing reminding you of the water is the exquisite seafood menu.
From Chiesa Santo Stefano, walk up stairs to the covered V. L’Abate. Primi €7-15; secondi €10-15; dolci €5-7. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7:30-11pm.
VERGINIELLO
V. Lo Palazzo 25
RISTORANTE
081 83 70 944
The whole package: terrace seating for a view, straw covering for some shade, and great value for some help re-padding that dented wallet. Despite its central location and amazing panorama, this large restaurant retains the feel of a family-run trattoria, with its light-hearted staff generous portions.
Take V. Roma from P. Umberto I and walk down the stairs on the right past the post office. Cover €2. Primi €7-14; secondi €12-22. Open daily noon-3pm and 7:30pm-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
With ferry and hotel costs what they are, the Isle of Capri is not the young traveler’s party town that other beach locales sometimes are. People who can afford to stay here head to expensive lounges and discos. The economically minded might consider the ridiculously early 5:40am ferry back to Naples, which means you can “stay the night” partying in Capri instead of booking a hotel room. Given the cost of most spots however, sleeping in Naples or living it up in Capri will probably end up costing about the same.