Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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BYE BYE BABY
V. Roma 6
CLUB
081 83 75 065 www.byebyebabycapri.com
Funky furniture sits in the lounge areas of this downstairs disco, though you won’t be doing much sitting as the night wears on. The hefty price of drinks draws a sophisticated crowd, so don’t expect to get in donning beachwear.
Take V. Roma from P. Umberto and descend steps on right. Entry M-F with purchase of drink. F-Sa and special events cover €20; Includes 1 drink. Cocktails €10. Open Tu-Su 11pm-5am.
NUMBER 1/NUMBER 2
V. Vittorio Emanuele III 53/55
CLUB
081 83 77 078
Follow the blue lights down to this spectacular double-whammy of a spot—but only if you’re prepared to rub shoulders with a pretty crowd and their pretty pennies. The two adjoining rooms let guests drift seamlessly between live vocals and jazz (Number 1) and commercial and house (Number 2).
Take V. Vittorio Emanuele III from P. Umberto I. Dress to impress. M-Th entry with drink; F-Su cover €30+. Cocktails €20, at a table €40. Open daily 11pm-3am.
MEDJ PUB
V. Oratorio 9
PUB
081 83 75 148
The cheapest spot to get a cocktail or beer, even by non-resort standards. Without the hip decor or nightly DJ of nearby clubs, it attracts a younger crowd looking for good conversation loosened up by a few too many drinks.
From P. Umberto I, take V. P.S. Cimino and turn left onto V. Oratorio. Beer €2.50-4. Shots €4. Cocktails €5-6. Open in summer daily 8pm-2am; in fall, winter, and spring Tu-Su 8pm-2am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Info points can be found to the right of the dock at Marina Grande (081 83 70 634), in Piazza Umberto in Capri (081 83 70 686), and in Anacapri just off P. Vittoria at Via Giuseppe Orlandi 59 ( 081 83 71 524 www.capritourism.com, www.infocapri.molti All branches open M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm, Su 9am-3pm.)
• INTERNET: Capri Graphic offers internet and office supplies in Capri. (V. Listrieri 17 081 83 75 212 From P. Umberto I walk down V. Longano and make a right onto V. Listrieri. €2 per 10min., €6 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-1pm and 4-8pm.) In Anacapri try Hotel Due Pini. (P. Vittoria 3 081 83 71 404 €1 per 10min., €5 per hr. Open daily 8am-6pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Carabinieri have offices in Capri (V. Provinciale Marina Grande 42 081 83 70 000 By the port. Open until 8pm.) and Anacapri (V. Caprile 081 83 71 011). There is also City Police in Capri (V. Roma 70 081 83 74 211).
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: G. Capilupi in Capri. (V. Provinciale 2 081 83 81 205 At the 3-pronged fork at the end of V. Roma. 24hr. service for emergencies.)
Getting There
Capri’s main port is Marina Grande. Various companies run ferries to and from Naples and Sorrento. Caremar (89 21 23 www.caremar.it) is the cheapest option but not the most frequent, running both ferries and hydrofoils to and from Naples ( Ferries €10, hydrofoils €14.50. 50-80min.; depart Naples every 2-4hr. 5:40am-9:10pm, depart Capri every 2-4hr. 5:45am-10:20pm.) and hydrofoils to Sorrento. ( €9.80. 25min.; depart Sorrento 7:45am, 9:25am, 2:30pm, 7pm; depart Capri 7am, 8:40am, 1:40pm, 6:15pm.) SNAV (081 42 85 555 www.snav.it) runs the most frequent hydrofoils to and from Naples ( €16. 45min., every 30-80min. 6:50am-7:10pm.) and Sorrento ( €13.50. Every 20-85min. 7:35am-6:30pm.) Having arrived, you can either walk 20min. up the winding streets to Capri or take a funicular. ( €1.40. Every 15-30min. 5:25am-1:45am.)
Getting Around
Once in Capri and Anacapri’s town centers, navigating the narrow and steep streets is only practical on foot. To get between major points, take buses or the funicular (€1.40 per ride). You can buy a €1 rechargable card and fill it with €2.20 for 1hr. (includes one bus and one funicular ride) or €6.90 for the week. Rechargable cards are rarely worth it for daytrips but are practical if you’re here for a while and planning to bus around the island a lot. From Capri centro, ATC buses run to Anacapri. ( Every 10min. during the day, 20min. early and late, 6am-2am.) All buses depart from the start of V. Roma in Capri. From Anacapri centro, buses head to other island destinations like Grotta Azzurra and Faro. All buses stop in P. Vittoria in Anacapri. For a taxi, head to the hubs at the Marina Grande port, P. Umberto I in Capri (081 83 70 543), or P. Vittoria in Anacapri (081 83 71 175).
sorrento
081
Sorrento is the practical traveler’s paradise. Located on a train, bus, and ferry route that connects it with the Amalfi Coast’s other cities, Sorrento makes dazzling, highcliffed Bay of Naples beauty easily accessible. While many travelers use Sorrento as a springboard for daytrips, its mix of paved streets and urban grit with shopping and beach bumming—the epitome of leisure—make it worth exploring in its own right. Before hopping on that train to more serene destinations, kick back with a glass of limoncello (as common as water here) and a cono of mint gelato for some daytime relaxation. Don’t forget your heels, though—staying out into the wee hours of the morning is as popular with Sorrento’s young crowds.
ORIENTATION
With its flat layout and paved sidewalks, Sorrento is very easy to navigate. Circumvesuviana trains and SITA buses pull into Piazza de Curtis. From there, head up the steps to Via degli Aranci, which has plenty of cheap accommodations and stores along its sidewalks, or down the hill to Corso Italia, which leads into the centro. A short walk will take you to the palm-tree-filled Piazza Tasso and the parallel Via San Cesareo, which is cluttered with souvenir and limoncello shops. From the piazza, steep stairs lead to the waterfront, a small public beach, and the port.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Being a beach town, Sorrento has its fair share of hotels—sometimes it feels as though they make up a third of the buildings here. With so many cheap hostels and one-star hotels only a few minutes from the centro, Sorrento is a great base for hopping around the Amalfi coast.
ULISSE DELUXE HOSTEL
V. del Mare 22
HOSTEL
081 87 74 753 www.ulissedeluxe.com
With its air-conditioned rooms, marble foyer, and discounted access to its private fitness center, Ulisse Deluxe is not easily reconciled with conventional expectations about hostel living. Doubles are more like those of a hotel.
Walk down C. Italia nearly to its end and then head downstairs just before the hospital. Walk 3min. toward the right down V. del Mare. Dorms €18-25; doubles €60-80; triples €90-120; quads €120-160.
BED AND BED DIANA CITY
C. Italia 5
HOTEL
081 80 74 392 www.dianacity.com
You don’t have to veer out of central Sorrento or resort to dormitory living to find an affordable room: this newly opened spot is as convenient as it is cheery. Colorful rooms decorated with bright paintings and linens remind you of the beach, and the sand is only 10min. away.
From P. Tasso, head 10min. down C. Italia, away from the train station. Doubles €59-79.
OSTELLO LE SIRENE
V. degli Aranci 160
HOSTEL
081 80 72 925 www.hostellesirene.com
The bunk beds in the small rooms at this hostel don’t allow for much wiggle room, but le Sirene’s proximity to the beach and train is convenient. Rooms have ensuite baths, which would be a plus if the floors weren’t wet and a bit dirty.
From train station, follow signs down V. degli Aranci and walk 5min. 8-10 bed unisex dorms €16; 6- to 7-bed (co-ed) €18; 4-bed (co-ed) €19-20. Doubles €45-60.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Sorrento doesn’t offer much in the way of religious and artistic must-sees, but its location on the coast makes it a great starting point for scenic hikes and leisurely days on the sand. Most visitors hit the beach, head up Corso Italia for shopping, or hop on a SITA bus to hit nearby cities on the Amalfi coast. Sorrento’s main beach is the Marina Grande, easily accessible by walking down V. de Maio and climbing down 100 steps to the winding road. From there, the port is to the right and a
sizeable stretch of private beach is to the left. The tiny public area, which will undoubtedly be crowded, is just beyond. For a break from crowded beaches head west on C. Italia and then V. Capo for about 30min. to the Capo di Sorrento, a small protrusion of beach and cliff off the otherwise flat coast. When you reach Calata di Punta del Capo, head right down the steep cobblestone road which eventually becomes soil and winds to the coast. Near the base, you’ll pass a small sign marking the Ruins of Villa di Pollio Felice. They truly are ruins—without the post, you would barely know they existed. Continue on past the few crumbling arches and make the steep descent to an aquamarine pool of water which will most likely be occupied by swimmers, though far fewer than fill Sorrento’s main beaches.
FOOD
Eating good food and staying cool in Sorrento is easy—gelaterie and limoncello merchants seem to come in pairs. If you’ve never tasted the sweet yellow drink, pop into Limonoro for a free sample and a piece of limoncello-filled chocolate. (V. San Cesareo 49/53 081 807 2782 www.limonoro.it. Open daily 8am-9pm.) Sit-down restaurants line the touristy C. d’Italia, and while they’re not as expensive as those in most beach towns, better spots can definitely be found on peripheral streets.
PRIMAVERA GELATERIA
C. Italia 142
GELATERIA, PASTICCERIA
081 80 73 252 www.primaverasorrento.it
When the Pope and bikini-clad supermodels can agree on something, you know it’s good: photos of each line the walls of this famed gelateria, where proud owner Antonio Cafiero dishes up over 70 flavors of gelato and sweets.
5min. down C. Italia from P. Tasso. Pastries €1.50-3. Cones €2.50-12. The €12 cone is unimaginably large. Open daily summer 9am-1am; fall, winter, and spring 9am-midnight.
IL GIARDINIELLO
V. dell’Accademia 7/9
RISTORANTE
081 87 84 616 www.giardiniellosorrento.com
Retreat from the sun and crowds to this leaf-covered restaurant while watching Nonna Luisa mix dough for her namesake torta di nonna. Classic Sorrentina dishes, like gnocchi with tomatoes and basil, are accompanied by a large selection of wine and often served by the owners themselves.
From P. Tasso, head down V. de Maio, turn left onto V. Santa Maria Grazie, and continue as the street becomes V. Accademia. Cover €1. Pizza €4.50-7. Primi €4-7. Fish and meat €6-14. 50. Open in summer daily 10:30am-midnight; in winter M-W 10:30am-midnight, F-Su 10:30am-midnight.
SALTO
V. degli Aranci 147
PIZZERIA
334 31 22 016
Portions and menu sizes are rarely this gigantic, even in Naples. Drop by Salto’s miniscule shop before hitting the beach or the train for a pizza, made any way you like it.
From the train station, head down V. degli Aranci away from the centro. Across the street from hostel. Pizza €2.50-4, slices €0.80. Panini €3-3.50. Primi €3.50. Open daily 9am-1am.
NIGHTLIFE
For such a small town, Sorrento is home to a surprising number of hopping evening spots. Head down Corso Italia for a lively array of bars and cafes. Though this town doesn’t boast the beach discos of other coastal cities, you can still break it down at spots like Daniele’s Club, which has a small dance area and caters to a distinctly tourist crowd. (P. Tasso 10 081 877 3992 www.bagattelle.net Open daily 9pm-4am.)
ENGLISH INN
C. Italia 55
CLUB, BAR, RISTORANTE
081 807 4357 www.englishinn.it
English keeps the crowd hustling every night and well into the morning. The real action happens upstairs in the vine-covered rooftop garden. A nightly DJ, plenty of TVs, and a cheap bar (with bartender’s choice happy hours) give rowdy guests their choice between dancing, drinking, or watching it all unfold.
5min. from P. Tasso. Shots €2. Beer €3-3.50. Cocktails €5. Pizza, pasta, and panini €5-9. Open daily 8am-4am. Upstairs garden open 7:30pm onward. Happy hour 10pm.
INSOLITO
C. Italia 38/E
BAR, CLUB
081 87 72 409 www.insolitosorrento.it
If you want to disguise your foreign status and slip in with a sleeker Italian crowd, Insolito’s glass bar and modern mini-disco will fit the bill. Despite its “prettierthan-thou” look, the place stays down-to-earth thanks to its cheap happy hours. Just don’t expect the raucous crowd that can be found at other touristy spots.
5min. down C. Italia from P. Tasso. Cocktails €5-8. Open daily 8am-5am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Info Points are the most convenient sources of information and are scattered throughout the town. Locations at the Marina Piccola (near the port), in Piazza de Curtis (outside the train station), in Piazza Tasso, and in Piazza Andrea Veniero (near the end of C. Italia). ( All open daily at 10am; some close at 8pm, others at 9pm.) The main Tourist Office is at V. Luigi de Maio 35. ( 081 807 4033 www.sorrentotourism.com Open M-Sa 8:30am-4pm.)
• INTERNET: Insolito. (C. Italia 38/E 081 877 2409 www.insolitosorrento.it Wi-Fi €4 per hr. Open daily 8am-5am.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Carabinieri (Vicolo III Rota 081 80 73 111). Police (Vicolo III Rota 081 80 75 311) right off C. Italia heading toward St. Agnello.
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Santa Maria della Misericordia keeps miserable hours. (C. Italia 129 081 533 1112 Open to public for appointments M-Sa 1-3pm and 7-8:30pm, Su 1-4pm and 7-8:30pm.)
Getting There
By Train
Circumvesuviana trains roll into the station in P. de Curtis 6. (800 05 39 39 Every 15-30min. 5:01am-11:26pm.) The train runs to Naples ( €3.40. 1hr.) and makes stops along the way in Pompeii ( €1.90. 20-30min.) and Herculaneum. ( €1.90. 45min.)
By Ferry
Ferries arrive at the port on the Bay. Linee Marittime Partenopee (081 80 71 812 www.consorziolmp.it) runs hydrofoils from Naples ( €10. Every 2hr. from Naples 9am-6:25pm, from Sorrento 7:20am-4:25pm.) and Capri. ( €14. Roughly every hr. from Capri 8am-7pm, from Sorrento 7:20am-6:20pm.) Metro del Mare (199 60 07 00 www.metrodelmare.net) runs ferries from Amalfi. ( €11. 1hr.; 4-5 per day from Amalfi 8:35am, noon, 1:50, 5, 5:40pm; from Sorrento 9:30am-1:15pm and 6:05pm.)
By Bus
SITA buses (089 405 145 www.sitabus.it) stop in P. de Curtis in front of the Circumvesuviana train station and are the best way to travel to Sorrento from the Amalfi Coast. Buy tickets from Unicocampania bus drivers or the kiosk in P. de Curtis. For prices and logistics see the box “bay of buses.” Buses run to and from Amalfi. ( 90min., every 30min. 6:30am-midnight.)
amalfi
089
Amalfi is the cool kid on the block—universally known, the subject of wild rumors, the one everyone else wants to be. Not surprising, as it’s the perfect marriage of waterfront and commercial centro yet somehow escapes becoming either fully urban or completely beach resort. More than any other coastal spot, Amalfi walks the line between artificial and natural beauty.
ORIENTATION
Amalfi is shaped like an upside-down “T”: its base lying on the waterfront and its thin center extending slightly uphill. It’s all easily walkable in an hour. Piazza Flavio Gioia (the bus and boat hub) leads into Piazza Duomo, which funnels into the narrow Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi and Via Pietro Capuano. Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare runs along the coast and becomes Via Pantaleone Comite. Follow this road to get to neighboring Atrani, a 10min. walk around the large cliff.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Cheap accommodations in Amalfi are few and far between. For better prices, head to Atrani. If you do want to shell out your euros, you’ll likely get good services and great views of the water, though you’ll still have to pay to step on the sand.
HOTEL LA CONCHIGLIA
Piazzale dei Protontini
HOTEL
089 87 18 56 www.amalfihotelconchiglia.it
The bright aquamarine shutters and decorative tiling of this hotel match Amalfi’s beautiful water. This family-run place 10min. from the centro is
secluded from crowds but still provides guests with beach proximity and plenty of relaxing space on the terraces and garden.
Facing the water from the bus stop, walk right on the waterfront along Lungomare dei Cavalleri for 10min. Look for hotel sign when you reach Salita S. Caterina. Singles €55; doubles €80-90; triples €110-120. Beach access, 2 chairs, and umbrella €18.
A SCALINATELLA HOSTEL
P. Umberto I