Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Marnixstraat 386
HOTEL
020 62 275 11 www.hotelfreeland.com
Freeland is an unbelievably fresh and cheerful hotel, miles away in character from the crowds and grit of the nearby Leidseplein. Rooms are airy and floral, but in a pastel take on modern design that’s breezier than the cloying sweetness of your great-aunt Mildred’s living room. Book early, as this place’s charm isn’t exactly a well-kept secret.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Singles €58-70; doubles €78-120.
INTERNATIONAL BUDGET HOSTEL
Leidsegracht 76
HOSTEL
020 62 427 84 www.internationalbudgethostel.com
On the opposite side of the Leidsegracht from the Leidseplein in a classic, narrow canal house sits this student-friendly hostel. Each dorm has four single beds—no bunk beds, a boon for those prone to either hitting their heads on or rolling off the top bunk. Very welcoming and friendly staff.
Tram #7 or 10 to Raamplein. Continue walking down Marnixstraat and make a left at the canal. Dorms €20-32.
De Pijp
Though far from the city’s true center, De Pijp has character and easy transport options, making it the perfect place to see what it’s like to be the hip, young thing living in an up-and-coming ’hood.
BICYCLE HOTEL
Van Ostadestraat 123
HOTEL
020 67 934 52 www.bicyclehotel.com
A certain current of yuppie environmentalism runs through De Pijp, so it’s appropriate that this eco-conscious hotel sits within its borders. Not only does the hotel have solar panels and a “green roof” (something about plants growing on it and saving energy—the owners explain it better than we can), but the whole theme of clean freshness permeates the building. Large windows in the rooms overlooking leafy gardens let in light and air. There are even some real balconies to sit on. Plus, the per-day bicycle rental costs almost exactly equal the price of a 24hr. transport ticket, so there’s no excuse for you not to go green as well.
Tram #3, 12, or 25 to Ceinturbaan/Ferdinand Bolstraat. Continue 1 block farther and make a left onto Van Ostadestraat. Singles €35-70; doubles €40-85, with bath €60-120. Bike rental €7.50 per day.
SARPHATI HOTEL
Sarphatipark 58
HOTEL
020 67 340 83
This bright and modern hotel is just across the street from Sarphatipark and a few blocks away from Albert Cuypmarkt. Rooms have bright yellow walls and high ceilings; all are impeccably clean.
Tram #3 or 25 to 2e van der Helstraat. Walk along the park. Singles €60-90; doubles €80-140.
Jodenbuurt and Plantage
Slightly removed from the city center (though in pocket-sized Amsterdam you’re never really far from anything), these establishments will make for a more tranquil and local-feeling stay.
BRIDGE HOTEL
Amstel 107-111
HOTEL
020 62 370 68 www.thebridgehotel.nl
The massive rooms in this family-run hotel are well worth the splurge. Done up in a mod palette of black, red, and white, rooms are large enough for a table and chairs and some have a view of the Amstel outside. The location may feel remote, but you’re just across the bridge from Rembrandtplein.
Tram #9 or 14 to Waterlooplein or Mr. Visserplein. Walk down Weesperstraat; make a right onto Nieuwe Prinsengracht, then a left onto Amstel. Singles €85-115; doubles €98-140.
HERMITAGE HOTEL
Nieuwe Keizersgracht 16
HOTEL
020 62 382 59 www.hotelhermitageamsterdam.nl
A newer addition to the street, Hermitage also has a younger feel than most of the neighboring hotels.Combining two of Amsterdam’s predominant hotel aesthetics, modern minimalist and old-fashioned floral, Hermitage covers its walls in stylized silver-and-black flowered wallpaper, and the rooms continue the cozy yet urban look.
Tram #9 or 14 to Waterlooplein or Mr. Visserplein. Walk down Weesperstraat and make a right onto Nieuwe Keizersgracht. Singles €44-90; doubles €55-120.
SIGHTS
Walking around Amsterdam, you’ll come across more than enough sights to fill your visit. Between old churches, quaint houses, and peaceful canals, this is one of the prettiest modern cities around. Behind those picturesque walls, however, there’s a whole lot more waiting to be explored. The large, famous galleries on Museumplein are rightly celebrated for their collections of new and old Dutch art; modern photography exhibitions are held in 17th-century canal houses or 14th-century churches; and a whole host of excellent museums and monuments are reflections upon the Netherlands’s tribulations during WWII. Most historical museums focus on Dutch or colonial topics, while the newer art exhibitions have an international bent. Of course, there are also a few less highbrow options like the Sex Museum and the Hash, Marijuana, and Hemp Museum. Plus the First Museum of Fluorescent Art, which is just too awesome to be sufficiently honored by mere prose.
If you’re planning on visiting a number of museums, it’s strongly recommended to invest in the Museumjaarkaart (www.museumjaarkaart.nl). For €40, or €20 if you’re under 26, you get free entrance to most museums in Amsterdam and the Netherlands for a whole year. Though only a few museums have admission fees of more than €10, the little €5 and €7 tickets do add up. With the Museumjaarkaart, there’s nothing to stop you from popping into one of the smaller or weirder museums and then skipping right out if it’s not up to snuff. You cannot get the card at the tourist office, but instead should go to one of the participating museums, such as the Bijbels Museum, the Rijksmuseum, or the Van Gogh museum. If, on the other hand, you’re only in town for a few days, consider getting the I Amsterdam card (www.iamsterdam.com) at the tourist office, which is more expensive and only valid for 24-72hr. but also gives you access to public transport.
Oude Zijd
The Oude Zijd doesn’t have many traditional sights or museums, but it is home to a number of interesting architectural landmarks.
NIEUWMARKT
Nieuwmarkt
SQUARE
Dominated by the largest still-standing medieval building in Amsterdam, Nieuwmarkt is a calm square lined with diverse cafes and bars, making it one of the best places in the city for some relaxed people-watching. De Waag, the 15th-century castle-like structure in Nieuwmarkt’s center, was originally a fortress gate. When the walls surrounding the city were demolished to enable Amsterdam’s expansion, the fortress became a weighing house. In later centuries it housed a gallery for surgical dissections (Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp depicts one such event), the Jewish Historical Museum, and, now, a restaurant and cafe. Nieuwmarkt is beloved by tourists and locals alike: in the 1970s, a plan to build a Metro and highway going through the neighborhood triggered the demolition of many surrounding buildings, which in turn prompted heavy rioting here in 1975. The highway idea was scrapped, but the Metro plan persisted, the product of which you can see in the corner of the square. Daily markets selling everything from souvenirs to organic food take place daily here and are at their largest on the weekends.
Nieuwmarkt or from Centraal Station walk 10min. down Zeedijk.
FO GUANG SHAN HE HUA TEMPLE
Zeedijk 106-118
TEMPLE
020 42 023 57 www.ibps.nl
You can’t miss this brightly painted, gabled building along Zeedijk. It’s Europe’s largest palace-style Buddhist temple. Queen Beatrix herself officially opened the temple, associated with the Taiwan-based Fo Guang Shan Buddhist order, in 2000. The goals of the temple include both spiritual development and cultural exchange. Most travelers come to peek inside the temple at the ornate Buddha statues, but the building also hosts lectures on Buddhism and Chinese as well as holiday and festival celebrations.
Nieuwmarkt. Free. Open Tu-Sa noon-5pm, Su 10am-5pm. Services Su 10:30am; open to the public.
Red Light District
No one comes to the Red Light District to go museum-hopping. However, if you decide
to take a break from pretending not to look at the window prostitutes, there are a few sights here that you can examine without feeling nearly as embarrassed.
OUDE KERK
Oudekerksplein 23
CHURCH
020 62 582 84 www.oudekerk.nl
Since its foundation in 1306, Oude Kerk, the oldest church in Amsterdam, has endured everything from the Protestant Reformation to the growth of the Red Light District which today encroaches naughtily on its very square. Oude Kerk didn’t escape all this history unscathed: during the Alteration of the 16th century, the church lost much of its artwork and religious figures. However, it remains a strikingly beautiful structure, with massive vaulted ceilings and gorgeous stained glass that betray the building’s Catholic, pre-Calvinist roots. Oude Kerk is now largely used for art and photography exhibitions, including the display of the prestigious World Press Photo prizewinners.
From Centraal Station, walk down Damrak, take a left onto Oudebrugsteeg, and turn right onto Warmoesstraat; the next left leads to the church. €7.50; students, seniors, and under 13 €5.50; with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 1-5:30pm.
HASH MARIJUANA HEMP MUSEUM
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148
MUSEUM
020 62 359 61 www.hashmuseum.com
No matter how much weed you’ve encountered in Amsterdam, this place probably has something you haven’t seen before. More valuable for the kitsch factor than for actual information (if you want that, go a few doors down to Cannabis College), this museum explores the history and myriad uses of the cannabis plant. Displays detail ancient mentions of smoking marijuana, the importance of the hemp industry in the 17th and 18th centuries, the science of THC, and the costs of America’s war on drugs—among much other ganga-related information. You can see a collection of pipes from around the world and a copy of the Declaration of Independence printed on hemp paper. Scattered somewhat incongruously throughout are Bible verses that could be liberally interpreted as support for the freedom to toke up.
From Dam Square, walk east on Dam and make a left onto Oudezijds Achterburgwal. €9, groups of 10 or more €7 per person. Open daily 10am-11pm.
CANNABIS COLLEGE
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 124
INFORMATION CENTER
020 42 344 20 www.cannabiscollege.com
Get your druggie “diploma” (a bachelor’s in blunts? a master’s in marijuana? a doctorate in doobies?) by taking a short quiz on all things cannabis-related. Don’t just come to pad your credentials, though: this is a repository of any and all information you could ever want about the funny stuff. Friendly volunteers on staff are happy to answer any questions visitors may have about the history, science, and usage of the drug. They’re so knowledgeable that they run training programs for coffeeshop staffers, and they’re hoping to expand with even more educational opportunities in the future. Downstairs, a wide variety of plants grow in a lovingly tended organic garden.
From Dam Square, walk east on Dam and make a left onto Oudezijds Achterburgwal. Free. Garden €2.50. Open daily 11am-7pm.
Nieuwe Zijd
The Nieuwe Zijd (despite the name) is one of the oldest parts of the city. Both important historical architecture and museums dedicated to the past can be found within its borders. Some of the more recent and gimmicky museums, such as Madame Tussaud’s and the Amsterdam Dungeon, are located here as well.
NIEUWE KERK
Dam Sq.
CHURCH, MUSEUM
020 63 869 09 www.nieuwekerk.nl
Built in 1408 when the Oude Kerk became too small for the city’s growing population, the Nieuwe Kerk is a commanding Gothic building that manages to hold its own amid the architectural extravaganza that is Dam Sq. Inside, the church is all vaulted ceilings and massive windows. Don’t miss the intricate organ case designed by Jacob van Campen, Koninklijk Palace’s architect. Today, the church is no longer used for religious purposes but is the site of royal inaugurations (the last one being that of Queen Beatrix in 1980) and some royal weddings (Prince Willem-Alexander, the heir to the Dutch throne, was married here in 2002). Most of the year, however, the space serves as a museum. Each winter, the church holds exhibits on foreign cultures, with a specific focus on world religions, and recent topics have included Islam and Ancient Egypt. Organ concerts are held here every Sunday, while shorter and more informal organ recitals are performed on Thursday afternoons.
Any tram to Dam. Nieuwe Kerk is on the northeastern edge of the square. €5, students €4, with Museumjaarkaart free. Organ concerts €8.50, recitals €5. Open daily 10am-5pm. Recitals Th 12:30pm. Concerts Su 8pm.
BEGIJNHOF
Begijnhof
COURTYARD, CHURCH
www.begijnhofamsterdam.nl
The Beguines were medieval groups of Roman Catholic laywomen who took vows of chastity and chose to serve the Church without retreating from the world and formally joining a convent. After seeing this beautiful 14th-century courtyard (the Beguines lived in the houses surrounding it), you’ll agree that they made a good call: this is a pretty sweet crib.
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Spui/Niuewezijds Voorburgwal. Walk down Gedempte Begijnsloot; the gardens are on the left. Free. Open daily 9am-5pm.
AMSTERDAM HISTORICAL MUSEUM
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357, Kalverstraat 92
MUSEUM
020 52 318 22 www.amh.nl
People, schmeople. This place is about Amsterdam, the city. Watch the introductory video that shows how this northern powerhouse has grown from a tiny settlement by the Amstel to a familiar horseshoe ring of canals to the recognizable urban destination of the past century. Don’t miss the room dedicated to Golden Age art, with some stomach-churningly gruesome paintings of the anatomy lessons that were fashionable during the 17th century. Also fascinating is the corner that shows various city planning designs from the past century, driving home the fact that Amsterdam is an entirely manmade city and that building more housing today entails building more land.
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Spui/Niuewezijds Voorburgwal. Head up Niuwezijds Voorburgwal; the museum is on the right. €10, seniors €7.50, students and ages 6-18 €5, under 6 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
DAM SQUARE
Dam Sq.
SQUARE
Once upon a time, lively Amsterdam was just two small settlements on either side of the Amstel River. Then one day, the settlers decided to connect their encampments with a dam. Three guesses where that dam was built. Since then, Dam Square has been the heart of the city, home to markets, a church, the town hall, and a weigh house (until Napoleon’s brother had it torn down because it blocked his view). The obelisk on one end is the National Monument, inside of which soil from all twelve Dutch provinces and the Dutch East Indies is stored. The monument was erected in 1956 to honor the Dutch victims of WWII. Across from the monument, next to the Nieuwe Kerk, you’ll find the Koninklijk Palace, which is currently closed for restoration. Louis Napoleon took it over in 1808, deciding that the building, constructed in the 17th century as Amsterdam’s town hall, would make an excellent fixer-upper. Since then, it has been an official royal palace of the Netherlands, though Queen Beatrix only uses it for official functions and actually lives elsewhere. Too bad—she’s wasting a unique view of the crowds, street performers, and occasional concert-type events that take place in the square.
Tram #1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 24, or 25 to Dam. Yeah, it’s pretty easy to get here.
AMSTERDAM SEX MUSEUM
Damrak 18
MUSEUM
020 62 283 76 www.sexmuseumamsterdam.nl
Unless you were previously unaware that people have been having sex since the species’s origin, there is not much information about sex or sexuality to be had at this museum. (The brief “Sex Through the Ages” presentation is hilariously simplistic, though the elegant British accent narrating it is priceless.) Instead, there’s a lot of pornographic paintings, photographs, books, and statues
, mainly from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, though most historical periods are represented in some form or another. Scattered throughout are models of various sexual icons: there’s Marilyn Monroe with her skirt fluttering over the subway vent, a 1980s pimp, and even a flasher who thrills the audience like clockwork every few seconds. If you really want to see a parade of pictures of people having sex, you could just walk through the Red Light District and get it for free. At least this place charges a low rate for the high kitsch factor.
From Centraal Station, walk straight down Damrak. Must be 16+ to enter. €4. Open daily 9:30am-11:30pm.
Canal Ring West and Scheepvaartbuurt
The Canal Ring West has none of the city’s large art museums, but it is where you’ll find some of Amsterdam’s quirkiest spots as well as the notable Anne Frank House and nearby Westerkerk.
ANNE FRANK HOUSE
Prinsengracht 267
MUSEUM