Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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020 55 671 00 www.annefrank.nl
From July 6, 1942, until they were betrayed by a still unknown informant and arrested on August 4, 1944, Anne Frank and her family, along with four others, lived in a “secret annex” above the warehouse of her father’s company in this building. Since its publication in 1950, the diary Frank kept during her stay in the annex has become one of the world’s most-read books; it stands as one of the most moving accounts of war and persecution to date as well as a testament to the strength and depth of the human spirit. This wonderfully presented museum illustrates the story of Frank and her fellow annex inhabitants and accompanies their tale with more information about the fate of Jews in the Netherlands and throughout Europe under Nazi oppression. Many traces of the annex’s clandestine residents have been preserved, including the pictures Anne glued to the walls in hopes of cheering up the place and the pencil marks that tracked the growth of the children throughout their years in hiding. The rooms are no longer furnished, but models of their earlier setup (as well as blacked-out windows and the size of the rooms themselves) give some idea of the close quarters Anne struggled with in her diary. An exhibit near the end brings forth one of Otto Frank’s main motives for establishing the museum: not just to remember the victims of the Holocaust, but to use that memory to work for a future in which such atrocities remain a thing of the past.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Lines are shortest before 10am and after 6pm. €8.50, ages 10-17 €4, under 10 free. Open daily July-Aug 9am-10pm; Sept 1-14 9am-9pm; Sept 15-March 14 9am-7pm; March 15-June 9am-9pm.
WESTERKERK
Prinsengracht 281
CHURCH
020 62 477 66 www.westerkerk.nl
The 85m tower of the Westerkerk stands out starkly amid the relative height uniformity of central Amsterdam’s buildings. This church was completed in 1631 according to a design by Hendrik de Keyser. On the top of the tower is the symbol of the crown of Maximilian of Austria, a gift he gave to the city in thanks for Amsterdam’s support of the Austro-Burgundian princes. Despite the apparent narcissism of the gesture, Maximilian’s crown and the tower it caps have become an enduring symbol of the city. On the outside, the church’s brick-and-stone exterior is a fine example of Dutch late Renaissance style. Inside, its plain white walls and clear glass windows are an example of the clean Calvinist aesthetic. Nevertheless, the church is by no means restricted to perpetual austerity: Queen Beatrix and Prince Claus were married here in 1966, which must have been quite the event. Rembrandt is buried somewhere within the church, although no one seems to know exactly where. (Yeah, we don’t know how they forgot where they put one of the most famous painters of all time either.)
A trip up the Westerkerkstoren (part of a 30min. guided tour) is a must, affording phenomenal views of the surrounding city. Also up in the tower’s heights is an astounding set of 47 bells, one of which weighs in at an astonishing 7509kg, making it Amsterdam’s heaviest. On Tuesdays, the carillon plays from noon to 1pm. Free organ concerts are held every Friday at 1pm, and the church hosts many other concerts throughout the year.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Free. Tower tour €5. Open Apr-Oct 11am-3pm. Tower tours every 30min.
HOMOMONUMENT
Westermarkt
MONUMENT
www.homomonument.nl
Designed by Karin Daan and officially opened in 1987, the Homomonument was the culmination of a movement to erect a memorial dedicated to those who were persecuted by the Nazis for their sexuality, but it is also meant to stand for all homosexual men and women who have been and are being oppressed because of their sexual orientation. The monument is constructed of three pink granite triangles (in remembrance of the symbol the Nazis forced homosexuals to wear) that are connected by thin lines of pink granite to form a larger triangle. Built so that it would merge seamlessly with the daily life of the city, the Homomonument can, in fact, be hard to discern under picnicking tourists and whizzing bikes. One triangle is set down into the water of the Keizergracht and points toward the National War Monument in Dam square, representing the present. The raised triangle stands for the future and points toward the headquarters of the COC, a Dutch gay rights group that was founded in 1946, and, as such, is the oldest continuously operating gay and lesbian organization in the world. The third triangle points toward the Anne Frank House, symbolizing the past; it is engraved with the words “Naar Vriendschap Zulk een Mateloos Verlangen” (“such an endless desire for friendship”) from the poem To a Young Fisherman by Jacob Israel de Haan (1881-1924), a gay Dutch Jewish poet.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. The Homomonument is between Westerkerk and the Keizersgracht. Free.
Central Canal Ring and Rembrandtplein
The grand buildings in the center of the canal ring, architectural landmarks themselves, house some excellent historical museums as well as galleries highlighting more cutting-edge culture.
FOAM PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM
Keizersgracht 609
MUSEUM
020 55 165 00 www.foam.nl
Foam—the Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam—showcases photography exhibits on pretty much every topic imaginable, from ultramodern, gritty documentary shots to glossy fashion photos. Both renowned and up-and-coming photographers are shown here in a sparse wood-and-metal space. A place for study as well as exhibition, the cafe reading room has books and magazines for your perusal. No need to feel ashamed for simply grabbing a coffee and feeling like one of the artsy Dutch students who hang out here though.
Tram #4, 16, 24, or 25 to Keizersgracht. FOAM is about 50m east of the stop. €8, students and seniors €5.50, under 12 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th-F 10am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. Cafe open daily 11am-5pm.
MUSEUM VAN LOON
Keizersgracht 672
MUSEUM
020 62 452 55 www.museumvanloon.nl
The Van Loons have been so integral to the city’s history, their family tree might as well be drawn on a map of Amsterdam. One of the family’s earlier members was a founder of the Dutch East India Company, and since then many have been mayors, political advisors, and the like. However, this house was not originally owned by this powerful lineage. Its first resident, Ferdinand Bol, was Rembrandt’s most famous student. The house as you see it now, though, is clearly of the Van Loon tenure, with family portraits lining the walls. Indeed, while here, it’s easy to feel as if you’re creeping around someone’s house (which, really, you are). Set up to look like the elegant, upper-class home it was when the Van Loons still lived here, the museum preserves a record of what traditional wealthy Dutch life was like, as per the intentions of the family when they donated their residence to the city. Weird last name or no, you’ll wish that you had grown up a Van Loon after seeing this place—everything is stunningly beautiful.
Tram #4, 16, 24, or 25 to Keizersgracht. The museum is about 50m east of the stop. €7, students €5, with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M 11am-5pm, W-Su 11am-5pm.
REMBRANDTPLEIN
Rembrandtplein
SQUARE
Once upon a time (a.k.a. the late 17th century), the area now known as Rembrandtplein was home to Amsterdam’s butter market (Botermarkt). Unless there are things we don’t know about the dairy trade, we suspect that the neighborhood was quite a bit tamer then than it is today. Around the end of the 19th century, hotels and cafes began to spring up around the square, which led to more tourists visiting the area, which led to people trying to figure out how to get more money from the tourists, which meant trying to get tourists drunk: thus, the explosion of bars and clubs nearby. Rembrandtplein is now home to Amsterdam’s largest club, Escape, underneath Europe’s largest LCD TV screen. From the middle of the square, Rembrandt van Rijn looks benevolently down at the madness.
Tram #9 or 14 to (surprise!) Rembrandtplein.
GOLDEN BEND
Herengracht, between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat
ARCHITECTURE
If the tiny, teeterin
g canal houses of Amsterdam are beginning to make you feel a bit claustrophobic, head to this scenic stretch of the Canal Ring. In the 17th century, the ring canals were extended all the way to the Amstel. This required a fair bit of cash, so in order to encourage investment, the city decided to loosen restrictions on house width and allow Amsterdam’s rich to build homes that were twice as wide as had been previously allowed. Termed the “Golden Bend” for the wealth that subsequently flocked here, this is a grand and beautiful stretch of former residences, all featuring Neoclassical facades and glimpses of sparkling chandeliers through latticed windows. Today, most are inhabited by banks, life insurance agencies, and the occasional philanthropic organization. For a few days in June, it’s possible to tour many of the houses’ gardens on the Open Garden Days. For more information, check out www.opentuinendagen.nl.
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Koningsplein.
MUSEUM WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN
Herengracht 605
MUSEUM
020 52 318 70 www.willetholthuysen.nl
Not technically on the “Golden Bend” but still an extremely elegant canal house, this building has been preserved by the Amsterdams Historisch Museum to demonstrate what wealthy Dutch life was like in the 19th century as seen through the eyes of Abraham Willet and Louisa Willet-Holthuysen, the house’s last inhabitants. Three opulently decorated floors feature many of the pieces acquired by this couple of avid art collectors. Painted by Jacob de Wit, the ceiling in the Blue Room was poached from a house on Keizersgracht. Throughout the museum, small paragraphs detail the culture and customs of life in the Willets’ time. It makes a striking contrast to some of the other historic house museums such as het Rembrandt due to its grandeur and scale. A lovely garden in the back is open to museum visitors.
Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Walk down Utrechtsestraat and make a left. €7, students and ages 6-18 €3.50, under 6 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
West Of Town
ELECTRIC LADYLAND
2e Leliedwarsstraat 5
MUSEUM
020 42 037 76 www.electric-lady-land.com
The “First Museum of Fluorescent Art” and a sight unlike any other, Electric Ladyland deserves a good chunk of your sightseeing time. The endearingly eccentric and passionate owner, Nick Padalino, will happily spend hours explaining the history, science, and culture of fluorescence and fluorescent art to each and every visitor who walks through the door. He’s collected a spectacular assortment of rocks and minerals, many exceedingly rare, that hail from New Jersey to the Himalayas and glow all kinds of colors under the different light Padalino expertly shines upon them. Other artifacts tell the history of fluorescence and its popularity in the early part of the century: paintings made from fluorescent paint or ground mineral pigments, some dating to as early as the 1940s, hang on the walls. Most intriguing, though, is the fluorescent cave-like sculpture that Padalino terms “participatory art”—don a pair of foam slippers and poke around the glowing grottoes and stalactites, flick the buttons on and off to see different fluorescent and phosphorescent stones, and look for the tiny, hidden Hindu sculptures. Completing the psychedelic trip is a quiet soundtrack of classic rock from Hendrix to The Beatles. Upstairs, you can buy your own fluorescent art or blacklight kits to take home a part of the experience.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Cross Prinsengracht and walk 1 block down Rozengracht, then make a right and walk a few blocks—the museum is just before you reach Egelantiersgracht. €5. Open Tu-Sa 1-6pm.
MUSEUM HET SCHIP
Spaarndammerplantsoen 140
MUSEUM
020 41 828 85 www.hetschip.nl
As Amsterdam expanded at the turn of the 20th century, its workers lived in increasingly cramped and squalid conditions. Socialist movements led to laws regulating housing (requiring, for example, that apartments have windows) and to the construction of affordable, higher-quality living spaces. Het Schip (“The Ship”) was one such housing project, built in 1919 and designed by Michel de Klerk. Its unusual design makes it a leading example of the Amsterdam School, an expressionist movement in architecture and design. You can get a feel for the characteristics of the Amsterdam School just by walking around the large building: notice the unusual curves inspired by organic shapes, the creative use of different kinds of brick and roof tiles, and the intricate sculptural decorations lurking in various corners. A visit to the museum, however, is worth the extra time, as it provides you with the opportunity to explore inside the remarkable post office nestled in one corner as well as an example of one of the building’s original apartments (the rest are still in use).
Tram #3 to Haarlemmerplein. Walk across the canal toward Westerpark, up Spaarndammerstraat, and left onto Zaanstraat; the building will be a few blocks down the street. €7.50, students €5, with Museumjaarkaart free. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm. Tours every hr. 11am-4pm.
STEDELIJK MUSEUM BUREAU AMSTERDAM
Rozenstraat 59
MUSEUM
020 42 204 71 www.smba.nl
As the Stedelijk Museum’s project space, the Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam (SMBA) seeks to promote cutting-edge contemporary art, primarily from the Netherlands. The bright white room hosts around six exhibitions a year, with everything from sculpture to painting to performance art represented. Lectures and discussions are also organized by the gallery. Check the website to see what’s currently running. Given the free admission, there’s no reason not to drop by.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Cross Prinsengracht, make a left, and walk 1 block. Free. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm.
HOFJES
Located in the northern third of the Jordaan
GARDENS, DUTCH HISTORY
One theory regarding the origin of the Jordaan’s name speculates that the moniker is derived from the French word jardin (garden), as a number of French Huguenots immigrated here in the 17th century. Such a hypothesis may provoke skepticism, however, since Jordaan is one of Amsterdam’s few areas that doesn’t have a park—it all starts to make sense, though, once you’ve stepped behind some of the neighborhood’s closed doors. Here, you will find a number of hofjes, courtyards surrounded by almshouses that were originally designed to provide housing for poor older women. Nowadays, the buildings have been turned into private houses, but many of the gardens are still open to the public. In the northern part of the Jordaan, at Palmgracht 28-38, you can find the Raepenhofje, named after the founder (Pieter Raepe) who had it built in 1648 for orphans and widows to enjoy. A few blocks down is the Karthuizerhof, at Karthuizersstraat 21-131. This larger hofje has two flowering gardens dotted with benches and a pair of old-fashioned water pumps. Finally, head to Egelantiersgracht 107-145 for the Sint-Andrieshof ( Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.), another oasis of tranquility. These gardens are surrounded by residences, so be quiet and respectful.
To start off at the Raepenhofje, take tram #3 to Nieuwe Willemstraat, cross Lijnbaansgracht, make a left, and then a right onto Palmgracht. Free.
WESTERPARK
PARK
The park that gives the neighborhood west of the Jordaan its name is small but worth a visit on a sunny day. Along the Haarlemmerweg grassy slopes roll down to the water and invite lounging; dirt paths around the park are great for biking, walking, or jogging. In the middle, a duck-filled pond accompanied by some very curious statues, including a headless woman in fancy dress, presides.
Tram #10 to Van Limburg Stirumstraat. Walk up V. L. Stirumstraat, cross the Haarlemmerweg, and enter the park on the right. Main entrance on Spaarndammerstraat, across from the Naussauplein (buses #22 and 348). Free.
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM
Prinsengracht, facing #296
MUSEUM
020 42 707 50 www.houseboatmuseum.nl
You can’t avoid seeing houseboats floating in the canals as you wander through Amsterdam, and this museum is designed to answer the inevitable questions that arise when landlubbers contemplate living on the water. The museum is a houseboat, a
nd it appears deceptively large—it’s actually the same size as the average Amsterdam apartment. It’s cozily set up to look like a real home, too, but it’s more than just a model: the informative guide available in dozens of languages, slideshows, and photos tell you all about the history, construction, and maintenance of the boats. If you’re inspired to get on the water yourself, you can always rent a houseboat from Frederic Rent-a-Bike.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt; cross Prinsengracht, make a left, and walk to the intersection with Elandsgracht. €3.50, with Museumjaarkaart €2.75. Open Mar-Oct Tu-Su 11am-5pm; Nov-Jan 3 F-Su 11am-5pm; Jan 30-Feb F-Su 11am-5pm.
Museumplein and Leidseplein
Surprise! The Museumplein is filled with museums. Good ones, at that, with two of the city’s best and most famous just a few steps away from each other. Besides the listings below, the beautiful Concertgebouw at the southern end of Museumplein is a concert hall worth visiting even when the music isn’t playing.
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
Paulus Potterstraat 7