Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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By Public Transportation
Carris (213 61 30 00 www.carris.pt) is Lisboa’s extensive, efficient, and relatively inexpensive transportation system that is the easiest way to get around the city of Lisboa. The city is covered by an elaborate grid of subways, buses, trams, and elevadores (funiculars, useful for getting up the steep hills). Fares purchased on board buses, trams, or elevadores cost €1.45; the subway costs €0.85 but you must first purchase a rechargable viva viagem card ( €0.50). The easiest and most cost- and time-effective option for those who will use a lot of public transportation is the unlimited 24hr. bilhete combinado ( €3.75), which can be used on any Carris transport and means you don’t have to go into a Metro station to recharge your card before getting on a bus or tram.
By Taxi
Taxis in Lisbon can be hailed on the street throughout the center of town. Good places to find cabs include the train stations and main plazas. Bouncers will be happy to call you a cab after dark. Rádio Táxis de Lisboa (217 93 27 56) and Teletáxis (218 11 11 00) are the main companies.
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Portugal is on Greenwich Mean Time (and is thus one hour behind Spain) and observes Daylight Savings Time. During the summer, from the end of March until the end of October, time is shifted forward one hour (GMT +1).This means that it is 5 hours ahead of New York City, 8 hours ahead of Los Angeles, the same time as the British Isles, 9 hours behind Sydney, and 11 hours behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Native Portuguese rarely tip more than their spare change, even at expensive restaurants. However, if you make it clear that you’re a tourist—especially an American one—they might expect you to tip more. Don’t feel like you have to tip; the servers’ pay is almost never based on tips. No one will refuse your money, but you’re a poor student so don’t play the fool.
Bargaining is common and necessary in open-air and street markets. Especially if you are buying a number of things, like produce, you can probably get a better deal if you haggle. However, do not barter in malls or established shops.
Taxes
Portugal has a 7-8% value added tax (IVA) on all meals and accommodations. The prices listed in Let’s Go include IVA unless otherwise mentioned. Retail goods bear a much higher 16% IVA, although the listed prices generally include this tax. Non-EU citizens who have stayed in the EU fewer than 180 days can claim back the tax paid on purchases at the airport. Ask the shop where you have made the purchase to supply you with a tax return form, but stores will only provide them for purchases of more than €50-100. Taxes, presently 21%, are included in all prices in Portugal. Request a refund form, an Insenção de IVA, and present it to customs upon departure.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
Travelers are not likely to break major laws unintentionally while visiting Portugal. You can contact your embassy if arrested, although they often cannot do much to assist you beyond finding legal counsel. You should feel comfortable approaching the police, although few officers speak English. In Portugal, the Policía de Segurança Pública is the police force in all major cities and towns. The Guarda Nacional Repub-Ilcana polices more rural areas, while the Brigada de Trânsito is the traffic police, that sport red armbands. All three branches wear light blue uniforms.
Drugs and Alcohol
Recreational drugs are illegal in Portugal, and police take these laws seriously. The legal minimum drinking age is 16. Portugal has one of the highest road mortality rates in Europe. Do not drive while intoxicated, and be cautious on the road.
SPECIFIC CONCERNS
Natural Disasters
Apart from the occasional mild earthquake evey 200 years, there is little to fear from nature in Portugal. However, it is worth noting that if more than an inch of snow falls, many cities will shut down totally and driving will be incredibly slow, as Portuguese drivers will be freaked from the weather conditions.
PRE-DEPARTURE HEALTH
Matching a prescription to a foreign equivalent is not always easy, safe, or possible, so if you take prescription drugs, carry up-to-date prescriptions or a statement from your doctor stating the medications’ trade names, manufacturers, chemical names, and dosages. Be sure to keep all medication with you in your carry-on luggage. Pharmacists in Portugal often speak very good English and can help you find common over-the-counter drugs.
portugal 101
facts and figures
• OFFICIAL NAME: Portuguese Republic
• POPULATION: 10.7 million
• MOST FAMOUS INVENTION: The Hot Air Balloon (1709)
• AGE: 872 in 2011
• NUMBER OF CASTLES: 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
The Portuguese are generally friendly, easygoing, and receptive to foreigners. Any attempt on your part to speak in the native tongue will be appreciated.
Taboos
Though dress in Portugal is more casual in the hot summer months than in the cold of winter, strapless tops on women and collarless t-shirts on men are generally unacceptable; shorts and flip-flops may be seen as disrespectful in some public establishments and rural areas even during a heat wave. Skimpy clothes are always a taboo in churches, as are tourist visits during masses or services. Do not automatically assume that those you meet will understand Spanish; one of the best ways to offend a local is to tacitly suggest that Portugal is part of Spain.
Public Behavior
Politeness is key in Portuguese society. Be sure to address a Portuguese as senhor (Mr.), senhora (Ms.), senhora dona (Mrs.), followed by their first name. To blend in, it’s a good idea to be as formal as possible at first impression. Introduce yourself in detail; you’ll be welcomed openly if you mention who you are, where you’re from, and what you’re doing in Portugal. Don’t be surprised if you get pecked on both cheeks by younger Portuguese, but handshakes are generally the standard introductory gesture by most of the population.
FOOD AND DRINK
Portugal is a paradise for fresh seafood. Whether you’re a seasoned fan of nautical fare or a shellfish skeptic, the Portuguese offer up an enticing selection of marine cuisine. While bacalhau (cod) is by far the fish of choice for most in Portugal, peixe espada (swordfish) is also a popular option. When it comes to cephalopods, choco grelhado (grilled cuttlefish), polvo (boiled or grilled octopus), and lulas grelhadas (grilled squid) should not be missed. For those less enamored of seafood, don’t fear—the Holy Trinity of Portuguese fare remains pork, potatoes, and pastries.
Many Portuguese pastry names have a distinctly religious air, from barriga de friera (nun’s belly) to papos de anjo (angel’s chins) to toucinho do céu (bacon from heaven). Despite its name, no pigs are harmed in the making of toucinho do céu; while the name derives from a time when bacon lard was used in its preparation, today all three of these divine treats are reliant upon egg yolks and sugar for their rich taste, providing a PETA-friendly pastry for the Portuguese.
SPAIN
madrid
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
barcelona
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
granada
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
pamplona iruña
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
FIESTA DE SAN FERMÍN
ESSENTIALS
logroño
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
majorca mallorca
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
ibiza
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
BEACHES
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
sevilla
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
burgos
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
carrión de los condes
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
león
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
astorga
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ESSENTIALS
santiago de compostela
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
MONEY
SAFETY AND HEALTH
spain 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
FOOD AND DRINK
Despite being fiercely proud of their individuality, Spain’s regions share a common rhythm. From the lull of afternoon siestas to the riotous tapas bars and discotecas , Spain harbors an invigorating lifestyle that galvanizes any traveler. For daring backpackers looking to elevate their adventures, hiking the Camino in the north can provide history lessons laced with continental views. If the flatlands are more your cup of tea, check out the beaches of Sitges in Catalonia or the chic northern city of San Sebastian to soak up rays and see local birthday suits. If the only buff part of your body is your brain, head north to Madrid’s Museo del Prado: with almost 10,000 pieces of art, they don’t have enough room to display their entire collection.
greatest hits
• SEE GUERNICA AT THE REINA SOFIA : This piece of modern art by Picasso immortalized the atrocities of the Franco regime (MUSEO NACIONAL REINA SOFÍA).
• CITY AT YOUR FEET: Climb up the Columbus Monument ( COLUMBUS MONUMENT) at the end of La Rambla and gaze out over the entirety of Barcelona.
• RAGE: Go to Ibiza. Go to Sevilla . Go to Granada. Seriously, pretty much any town with more than 1000 people will be poppin’ at 3am.
For details on Spain map, click here
student life
Ever since dictator Franco’s death in 1975, the madrileños have been going out like it’s going out of style. La movida, the youth countercultural movement post-1975, broke all those pesky Franco-era taboos by over-indulging in everything from alcohol to fornication. While few places are as countercultural as they were in the ’70s, the student nightlife scene is just as jammin’—but maybe with fewer drugs. Start your night off at Kiyo in Chueca and sip a kiwi, vodka, and sake concoction in the heart of Madrid’s gay nightlife. Next, head to Kapital, a classic huge disco that will please any clubgoer with four levels of themed dance floors, go-go dancers of both genders, and enough fog to give you asthma. Don’t stop grinding until sunrise, and then cap off the evening with chocolate con churros, fried dough dipped in thick, molten hot chocolate at Chocolateria San Ginés.
madrid
91
ORIENTATION
El Centro
Bordered by the beautiful Palacio Real in the west and the relaxing Parque del Retiro in the east, El Centro, the heart of Madrid, encompasses the city’s most famous historical sites and modern venues. Ancient churches, plazas, and winding cobblestone streets are set beside hip clubs and lively bars. In the middle is Puerta del Sol, the “soul of Madrid,” where thousands descend to ring in each New Year. By day it is filled with tourists and locals checking out the restaurants and shopping that fill the eight streets meeting at Sol, and by night clubbers continue the party until 6am or later. Also in El Centro is Plaza Mayor, a vibrant square bordered by restaurants and filled with street performers and vendors. Finally, Plaza Santa Ana provides a popular meeting place where locals and tourists can escape for lunch and pre-club drinks. If you only have a few days in Madrid, El Centro gives a great taste of Madrid’s culture and people. You can get around quickly with the Metro, but the area is also easily walkable, as the main sights are close to one another. When in doubt, stick to the main streets: Calle de Alcalá, Calle Mayor, Calle de las Huertas, and Calle de Atocha for great restaurants, nightlife, hostels, and cafes.
La Latina and Lavapiés
Known as the multicultural center of Madrid, La Latina and Lavapiés burst at the seams with international restaurants, bars, and cafes. Less frequented than the Sol or Plaza Mayor areas, these districts are where the locals go to drink and eat before heading out to enjoy more popular nightlife in other quarters. If you find yourself in La Latina, be sure to barhop on Cava Baja, a narrow street packed with enough cocktail bars, beer stops, restaurants, and tapas bars to suit any taste. With a relatively recent influx of immigrants from North Africa, the Middle East, and India, Lavapiés is a great place to eat if you’re looking for an alternative to Spanish tapas. Calle de Lavapiés is filled with Indian restaurants, many of which specialize in tasty tandoori dishes.
Huertas
Huertas street’s walls are etched with quotes from writers like Cervantes and Calderón de la Barca who lived in this historically literary neighborhood during its Golden Age. Today, the neighborhood centers itself on Plaza Santa Ana and Calle de las Huertas and is bordered by C. Alcalá (north), Pasea del Prado (east), and C. Atocha (south). Get rid of your writer’s block with Huertas’ many tapas bars, lively nightlife, and delicious food along Plaza Santa Ana, C. del Principe, and C. de Echegaray.
Avenida del Arte and Retiro
Once reserved for royalty, the beautiful Parque del Buen Retiro is a peaceful gem in the middle of hectic Madrid—much like a Spanish Central Park. Full of wide walkways, gardens, cafes, and entertainers, this is the perfect place to exercise or take a load off and people-watch. Rent a rowboat for 45min. for €5 and paddle around the lovely man-made lake near the northern entrance to the park. Next door to these grounds is the Paseo del Prado, home to some of the world’s best art museums including the Museo Nacional del Prado and the Reina Sophia modern art museum. Walk along this tree-lined boulevard to get shade and see some of the best sights that Madrid has to offer.
Gran Vía
Though it celebrated its centennial in 2010, Gran Vía isn’t ready for retirement yet. The bustling “Broadway Madrileño” has evolved from a musical mecca to a bustling thoroughfare full of theaters, fast-food restaurants, shopping, and nightlife. Indeed, Gran Vía has just gotten younger with age. It may once have been where grandma came to see the opera, but now it’s where the young and the trendy come for international shopping and clubbing.