Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 180
Chueca and Malasaña
Madrid’s famous gay neighborhood Chueca is centered on Chueca and encompasses Hortaleza, Infantas, Barquillo, and San Lucas streets. Packed with modern restaurants, a wide variety of bars, and some of the best nightlife in Madrid, the district is a go-to neighborhood for anyone—regardless of orientation. The Malasaña area is named after Manuela Malasaña, a seamstress who became an unwilling martyr for Spain in the Peninsula War when she was executed by French forces for holding scissors that were interpreted as a weapon. Today, Malasaña is home to the city’s hipster crowd and attracts hard-rock and grunge fans to its many venues. Both neighborhoods are funky and colorful and maintain a paddle-your-own-canoe mentality.
Argüelles and Moncloa
Just north of Plaza España is Argüelles, a series of crisscrossing streets centered on shopping-filled Calle de la Princesa. The neighborhood is highly residential and not really geared toward tourists, but the beautiful Templo de Debod is worth any traveler’s time. The lookout points behind this temple present a scenic view of western Madrid. The Paseo del Pinto Rosales on the border of the beautiful Parque del Oeste offers excellent cafes and a quiet atmosphere in which to enjoy lunch. To the north of Argüelles is Moncloa, which is right beside the university area. Although not as touristy as the center, Moncloa has some worthwhile stops, including the Arco de La Victoria and the Museo de America.
ACCOMMODATIONS
El Centro
HOSTEL IVOR
C. Arenal, 24, 2nd fl.
HOSTEL
91 547 10 54 www.hostal-ivor.com
This beautiful hostel, located between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, home to many of El Centro’s most prominent restaurants, cafes, clubs, and bars, is more like a mid-range hotel in terms of accommodations and service. Bright, clean, and well-decorated, Ivor’s 25 rooms are comfortable but pricey. Extremely friendly service sets Hostel Ivor apart from its competition, with free Wi-Fi, ensuite bathrooms, and a cozy room make for a pleasant stay.
From Puerta del Sol, walk down C. del Arenal a little bit past C. de las Hileras. Singles €44; doubles €65. Reception 24hr.
For details on Madrid map, click here
LOS AMIGOS HOSTEL
C. Arenal, 26, 4th fl.
HOSTEL
91 559 24 72 www.losamigoshostel.com
Located a short walk away from Puerta del Sol, Los Amigos Hostel is smack dab in the center of C. Arenal. Rooms are shared, but unbunked beds provide a nice alternative to usually cramped hostel living, especially for those with grande neighbors and fears of even the smallest heights. Amenities include Wi-Fi, a communal kitchen, and complimentary continental breakfast.
From Puerta del Sol walk down C. del Arenal until you pass C. de las Hilerias; Los Amigos will be on your right. Breakfast included. Linens included. Extra large lockers and towels available for rent. Free Wi-Fi. Dorms €17, with private bath €19; doubles €45-50. Multilingual reception 8am-midnight.
Huertas
WAY HOSTEL
C. Relatores, 17
HOSTEL
91 420 05 83 www.wayhostel.com
This new, modern-but-homey hostel charges the same prices as youth and backpackers’ hostels without the cramped bunk beds. Each of these 6- to 10-bed dorms is clean, spacious, and well decorated. The relaxed and friendly kitchen and the large TV room feel like upscale college common areas—perfect for your next beer.
Tirso de Molina. From the station, walk toward the museum district and make a left up C. Relatores. The hostel will be on your right. Breakfast included. Book online. Dorms €18-24. Reception 24hr.
CAT’S HOSTEL
C. Cañizares, 6
HOSTEL
91 369 28 07 www.catshostel.com
This popular hostel is mostly comprised of basic dorms (2-14 beds) with shared bathrooms. There are some doubles with private baths, but availability is decided upon arrival. A colorful bar area with beer barrel tables, the “Cat’s cave” social basement, and a restored Moorish patio provide travelers with spaces to mingle. Organized tapas tours and pub crawls often meet here. The staff is friendly, but you might have to wait a while to check in during peak hours. Reserve a room ahead of time as it often fills up quickly.
Antón Martín. Walk 1 block down C. de la Magdalena and make a right onto C. Cañizares. Cat’s will be on your left. Breakfast included. Laundry €5. Dorms €17-22; doubles €38-42 Reception 24hr.
INTERNATIONAL YOUTH HOSTEL
C. de las Huertas, 21
HOSTEL
91 429 55 26 www.posadadehuertas.com
Located right on the drinking hub of C. de Huertas, this brightly painted, social hostel is ideal for groups of backpackers looking for other people to join their wolf-pack. With various food and sights tours as well as pub crawls that leave from IYH, you won’t have any trouble meeting people—even your bedroom can have up to 10 people in bunk-bed-style accommodations complete with shared bathrooms.
Antón Martín. Walk north up C. de Leon, make a right on Huertas. Breakfast included. Luggage storage. Free Wi-Fi. Dorms €16-22. Reception 24hr.
MAD HOSTEL
C. de la Cabeza, 24
HOSTAL
91 506 48 40 www.madhostel.com
Mere minutes from the party people at Plaza Santa Ana, this hostal is great for travelers on a budget. Standard but clean rooms vary with 4-6 bunk beds that may or may not be single-sex. Bottom bunkers should beware of smacking their heads on the relatively low top bunks. Pick up a drink and play a game of pool in Mad’s social space to meet fellow travelers.
Antón Martín. From the station, walk forward down C. Magdalena then take C. Olivar, the 2nd street on the left. Walk until you see C. Cabeza and turn right. Look for the Mad Hostal signboards on the left side of the street. Breakfast, safe, and linens included. Towels available for €5 deposit. Laundry machines available. Small 4-piece gym and rooftop terrace. €10 key deposit. Reserve ahead. Dorms €16-23. 24 hours.
Gran Vía
LA PLATA
Gran Vía, 15
HOSTAL
91 521 17 25 www.hostal-laplata.com
Owned and operated by the Garrido brothers, this hostel exudes quirky charm, from its brightly painted lobby to the unnecessary chandeliers in every room. Thanks to this place’s incredibly helpful and friendly staff, Let’s Go recommends this hostal out of all the options in this building.
Gran Vía. Walk straight east; building will be on your right. Singles €45; doubles €60. Reception 24hr.
HOSTAL FELIPE V
Gran Vía, 15, 4th fl.
HOSTAL
91 522 61 43 www.hostalfelipev.com
Felipe V runs itself like a hotel with spacious rooms and friendly service. Family owned and operated, this hostal has been recently renovated and offers guests a daily newspaper and concierge-like services in its lobby.
Gran Vía. Walk east; building will be on your right. Breakfast €4.50. Offers travel agency service and reservations for airport shuttles Singles €46; doubles €64; triples €78. Reception 24hr.
HOSTAL A. NEBRIJA
Gran Vía, 67, 8th fl.
HOSTAL
91 547 73 19 www.hostalanebrija.com
The best part of this hostal is its spectacular views of the Palacio Real, the cathedral, and the nearby gardens. The second-best part is the eclectic collection of religious paintings and porcelain decorations in its lobby. With attractive prices in this neighborhood of expensive hostels, Hostal A. Nebrija is hard to turn down.
Plaza de España. Singles €28; doubles €36; triples €55. Reception 24hr.
Chueca and Malasaña
HOSTAL LOS ALPES
C. de Fuencarral, 17, 3rd and 4th fl.
HOSTAL
91 531 70 71 www.hostallosalpes.com
Located on one of the best shopping streets in Madrid, Hostal Los Alpes is a great place for you and your wallet to rest after a day of shopping. You’ll breathe easy large rooms, spacious bathrooms, and nic
e common area with leather seating and a community computer. Your wallet will stay pleasantly plump, as the prices here are remarkably reasonable for the service provided.
Chueca. Make a right onto C. de Gravina and a right onto C. de Hortaleza. Singles €28; doubles €50. Reception 24hr.
HOSTAL MARIA LUISA
C. de Hortaleza, 19, 2nd fl.
HOSTAL
91 521 16 30 www.hostalmarialuisa.com
This well-kept hostal has all the amenities of a small hotel at a much lower price. Nightstands, patterned bed coverings, and wooden wardrobes make the rooms look like they belong in someone’s house, and the common area includes living-room-style couches with a TV and pictures on the wall. All it’s missing is a mom and some meatloaf.
Chueca. Make a right on C. de Gravina and a right on C. de Hortaleza. Singles €39; doubles €50; triples €69; quads €85. Reception 24hr.
Argüelles and Moncloa
HOSTAL ANGELINES
Hilarion Eslava, 12
HOSTAL
91 543 21 52
This well-kept hostal puts you near Madrid’s university district. Although several metro stops away from the city center, it’s a better value than closer hostals and will save you some money. Big, sparkling white bathrooms and huge beds make it an excellent place to take refuge after a long day exploring the city.
Moncloa. Walk south down C. de la Princesa and make a left on C. de Romero Robledo. Keep walking until you reach Hilarion Eslava, then make a left. Singles €40; doubles €45. Reception 24hr.
tooth mouse
Most countries have some tradition involving children’s baby teeth. In America, we’re used to a tooth fairy replacing them with coins as we sleep. However, in Spain (and other Spanish-speaking countries like Argentina), the agent of tooth-to-coin transformation is actually a mouse! His name, in the legend, is Ratoncito Pérez. Ratoncito translates to “cute little mouse,” and Pérez is a generic last name (think Smith). The tooth-mouse story came into being—allegedly—when the royal Prince Alfonso XIII lost one of his first baby teeth.The royal parents, in an effort to reassure him, asked a certain priest to formulate some sort of nice story for the toothless prince. So, as he didn’t have much of a choice, the priest wrote a book about a boy, Bubi (the prince’s nickname), who loses a tooth but is later rewarded by a mouse. It probably had a bunch of priestly morals thrown in there as well, but what really stuck was the idea of a mouse swapping teeth for presents. You might think it’s a bit of a one-sided deal, but rumor has it that Ratoncito Pérez is actually building a modernista mansion out of all the baby teeth.
Outside the City Center
CAMPING ALPHA
12.4km down Ctra. de Andalicia in Getafe
CAMPING
916 958 069 www.campingalpha.com
This clean and welcoming campground features paved roads, pool, tennis courts, showers, laundry, and an internet center. Outside, it might get uncomfortable in the middle of Madrid’s infamously hot summers.
Walk down Vada Santa Catalina, cross the bridge, and bear right. Take bus #447, which stops across from the Museo de Jamón. Cross the footbridge and walk 1½km back toward Madrid along the busy highway following the signs. Apr-Sept €7 per person; €7.10 per tent. Oct-Mar €5.56 per person; €5.68 per tent. 2- to 5-person bungalows €51-100.
SIGHTS
El Centro
PALACIO REAL
C. de Baillén
MONUMENT
34 91 454 87 00 www.patrimonionacional.es
After the previous Muslim fortress was destroyed in a fire, Philip V began building the almost entirely marble Palacio Real. Its size and opulence are overwhelming, with each displayed room filled with vast collections of priceless furniture, tapestries, paintings, porcelain, and other things you’d expect to find in a house made of marble. Go on the 1hr. tour (in English or Spanish) that takes you through the palace’s most richly decorated and renovated rooms and gives you behind-the-scenes stories about palace quirks. One can’t-miss room is the Salón del Trono, where the king and queen used to greet visitors (today the palace is only used by the royal family on official state occasions). Still want more after the palace tour? Check out the Real Armeria (Armory) with an awesome collection of knights’ armor and the Oficina de Farmacia (Royal Pharmacy), which features crystal and porcelain medicine receptacles. If you’re in town on the first Wednesday of the month between September and May, check out the changing of the guard at noon.
Opera. Walk west down C. de Arrieta. Palacio Real will be at the end of the road. Come early to avoid long lines. €8, with tour €10; students, seniors, and children 5-16 €3.50. Open Apr-Sept M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-3pm; Oct-Mar M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 9am-2pm.
PLAZA MAYOR
Plaza Mayor
PLAZA
Built in the 15th century as a market square and home to important members of the court during the 17th century, the Plaza Mayor is steeped in history and architectural beauty. Today, it keeps the flavor of both its historic uses. By day, its hundreds of restaurants, shops, and street performers function as a modern-day market square. By night, live flamenco and music performances provide entertainment fit for a king’s court. During the week-long Fiesta de San Isidro that begins on May 15, the plaza comes alive in celebration to honor Madrid’s patron saint. The tourist office located in the plaza is quite helpful for free maps and suggestions for activities and other sights.
Sol or Opera. From Puerta del Sol, walk 2min. down C. Mayor toward the Palacio Real. It will be on your left.
PUERTA DEL SOL
C. de Cedaceros, 10
PLAZA
Located in Puerta Del Sol is Spain’s Kilometre Zero, the point from which all distances in Spain are measured. The Esquilache mutiny of 1766 began here in 1808, when madrileños took up arms against French troops in a historic resistance captured in Goya’s Dos de Mayo and Tres de Mayo. Today, it is the headquarters of Madrid’s regional government, hundreds of restaurants and cafes, and some of the best shopping in the city. This common meeting spot for fútbol game celebrations, protests, and celebrations is the true “soul” of the city.
Sol.
CATEDRAL DE LA ALMUDENA
C. Bailen
CATHEDRAL
91 542 22 00
Located right next to the Palacio Real, this cathedral has an incredible cavernous marble interior. Walk in for free and take in the 66ft. diameter dome and featured statues and artwork. In the 11th century, the image of the Virgin over the entrance was hidden by Mozarabs. When Madrid was reconquered by King Alfonso VI of Castile, the soldiers endeavored to find the statue to no avail. According to legend, after days of prayer, the spot on the wall hiding the icon crumbled to reveal this magnificent statue.
Right next to Palacio Real. Free. Open daily 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.
PLAZA DE ORIENTE
Plaza de Oriente, 2
PLAZA
This beautiful plaza is filled with perfectly manicured hedges, fountains, and statues in honor of former Spanish kings and queens that surround the equestrian statue of Philip IV by Montañes. Lovers, tourists, sunbathers, and sunbathing tourist-lovers all lounge around the plaza.
Across from the Palacio Real. Free.
JARDINES DE SABATINI
C. de Baillen, 9
GARDEN
91 588 53 42
Jardines de Sabatini is an outdoor reflection of the wealth and opulence of the royal palace. Immaculately kept trees, hedges, and fountains create a relaxing atmosphere, and tourists with children stroll through this soccer-mom haven during the day. Buy a gelato at one of the many cafes across the street and come here for a mid-afternoon break from reality.
Right next to the Palacio Real. Free. Open until dusk.
La Latina and Lavapiés
BASILICA DE SAN FRANCISCO EL GRANDE
C. de San Buenaventura, 1
CATHEDRAL
91 365 38 00
This Roman Catholic Church is one of the most distinctive
structures in La Latina. The basilica was designed in a Neoclassical style in the second half of the 18th century and comes to life when lit up at night. The cathedral has three chapels, including the Chapel of San Bernardino de Siena, where Goya’s magnificent painting of the chapel’s namesake rests. Pay close attention to the picture and you will see that the figure on the right not looking up is Goya himself. Don’t forget to check out the adjacent gardens outside that hold spectacular views of western Madrid.