Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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From La Latina, walk straight west down Carrera S. Francisco. Free. Guided tours €3. Open Tu-F 11am-12:30pm and 4-6:30pm, Sa 11am-noon.
Huertas
REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE SAN FERNANDO
C. de Alcalá, 13
MUSEUM
91 524 08 64 rabasf.insde.es
The oldest permanent art institute in Madrid, the Real Academia de Bellas Artes is a short walk away from bustling Puerta del Sol. With a small collection, it can be comfortably visited in a couple of hours. If you need to blast through this museum, don’t forget to check out the Goyas in room 20.
From Puerta del Sol, walk east down C. de Alcalá. Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando will be on your left. €5; groups of 15-25 €2.50; students, under 18, and over 65 free. Open M 9am-2:30, Tu-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 9am-2:30pm.
Avenida del Arte
MUSEO NACIONAL REINA SOFÍA
C. Santa Isabel, 52
ART MUSEUM
91 774 10 00 www.museoreinasofia.es
This public collection of 20th-century art has burgeoned since Juan Carlos I declared the building a national museum in 1988 and named it after his wife. The building is a work of art in itself, with two futuristic-looking glass elevators ferrying visitors up and down the museum as they look north over the skyline. The museum’s 10,000-piece collection of paintings, sculptures, installation pieces, and film is amazing by anyone’s standards. The second and fourth floors are mazes of permanent exhibits charting the Spanish avant-garde and contemporary movements. If that’s not for you, the second-floor galleries dedicated to Juan Gris, Joan Miro, and Salvador Dalí display Spain’s vital contributions to the Surrealist movement. If you’re pressed for time, make sure not to miss Pablo Picasso’s Guernica, the highlight of the Reina Sofía’s permanent collection and the centerpiece of its knockout Gallery 206. Make sure to read about this paintings symbolic ties to the Spanish Civil War.
Atocha. €6, ages 17 and under and over 65 free Sa afternoon and Su. Temporary exhibits €3 €6, €3 temporary exhibitions. Open M 10am-9pm, W-Sa 10am-9pm, Su 10am-2:30pm.
MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA
Paseo del Prado, 8
ART MUSEUM
91 369 01 51 www.museothyssen.org
Unlike the Prado and the Reina Sofía, the Thyssen-Bornemisza covers international art from many periods: exhibits range from 14th-century canvases to 20th-century sculptures, and its collection encompasses periods of art overlooked by the other two. The museum is housed in the 19th-century Palacio de Villahermosa and contains the collection of the late Baron Henrich Thyssen-Bornemisza. Today, the museum is the world’s most extensive private showcase. Take advantage of the spread by checking out its Baroque collection that includes pieces by Caravaggio, Riber, and Claude Lorraine. Also, don’t forget to explore the Impressionist, Fauvist, and early avant-garde pieces that paved the way to modern art as we know it today. To be honest, there’s too many famous artists to namedrop—just come here to be wowed and won over by its gigantic collection.
From the Prado, walk straight north up the Paseo Del Prado. Museum is at the corner of Carrera de San Jeronimo and Paseo Del Prado. €7, children under 12 free. Open Tu-Su 10am-7pm.
MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO
C. Ruiz de Alarcón, 23
MUSEUM
91 330 28 00 www.museodelprado.es
With its Goyas and El Grecos, Rembrandts, Raphaels, and Rubens, the Prado has enough alliterative artistic awesomeness to make the Louvre look not so special after all. Organized by country, the ground floor houses Spanish (12th to 16th century), French, Dutch, and Italian (17th-19th century) works. While Let’s Go recommends that you spend a few hours here, if you’re in a rush, be sure to catch the can’t-miss works. Velázquez’s masterpiece Las Meninas, considered one of the finest paintings in the world, captures a studio scene centered on the Infanta Margarita. Velásquez himself stares out from behind his easel in the left side of the painting. It may look like just another picture of wealthy Spaniards in big dresses, but this piece has been praised as the culmination of Velázquez’s career—a meditation on reality, art, illusion, and the power of easel painting. That pouting dog in the corner looks a lot more profound now, doesn’t it? Goya’s Majas—two paintings with differing states of clothing side-by-side of a woman believed to be the Duchess of Alba—wows audiences with its intricate brushstrokes. Take a free museum map and get the English audio tour (€3.50) for background information on the museum’s 1500+ displayed paintings. To get the most masterwork for your moola, try to make it during free entrance.
Banco de España and Atocha. From Atocha, walk north up Paseo del Prado; the museum will be on your right just past the gardens. Free entry Tu-Sa 6-8pm, Su 5-8pm. Consult website for up-to-date schedule. €8, students €4, under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 9am-8pm.
REAL JARDÍN BOTÁNICO
Plaza de Murillo, 2
GARDEN
91 420 30 17 www.rjb.csic.es/jardinbotanico/jardin
The perfect place to rest after a visit to the Prado, this small garden is full of well-kept flowers and exotic collections. Sit in the shade on one of the many benches of this oasis in the middle of Madrid’s museum district as you ruminate on the countless pieces of art you just cranially ingested.
Next door to the Prado. . €2.50, students €1.25, groups €0.50. Open daily Jan-Feb 10am-6pm; Mar 10am-7pm; Apr 10am-8pm; May-Aug 10am-9pm; Sept 10am-8pm; Oct 10am-7pm; Nov-Dec 10am-6pm.
Chueca and Malasaña
CONVENTO DE LAS SALESAS REALES
C. Barbara de Braganza
CATHEDRAL
91 319 48 11
This mostly empty church is a calm getaway from the hustle and bustle of Chueca. Next door to some of the district’s classiest shopping, its beautiful monastery was designed by Francois Carlier and is worth a pit-stop and a photo. Go inside to see the dome, which features painted biblical scenes and the tombs of Fernando VI and Barbara de Braganza, constructed by Francesco Sabatini and Francisco Gutierrez.
Colon. From Pl. Colon, go down Po. de Recoletos and take a right onto C. de Barbara de Braganza. Free. Open M-F 9:30am-1pm and 5:30-8pm, Sa 9:30am-2pm and 5-9pm, Su 9:30am-2pm and 6-9pm. Closed to tourists during mass.
MUSEO DE HISTORIA
C. Fuencarral, 78
MUSEUM
91 588 86 72 www.munimadrid.es/museodehistoria
This renovated 18th-century building built during the reign of Felipe V now holds a collection of sketches, models, paintings, drawings, and documents that showcase the history of Madrid. Saved from destruction in 1919 by the Spanish Society of Friends of Art, the museum is now considered one of Madrid’s historical-artistic monuments. Come for a cultural break from all the shopping on C. Fuencarral. Closed for renovation until early 2010.
Tribunal. Walk straight north up C. Fuencarral. Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-9pm, Su 11am-2:30pm.
Gran Vía
PLAZA DE ESPAÑA
PLAZA
On a sunny day the Plaza de España is filled with street performers, vendors, sunbathers, and Spanish couples showcasing some serious PDA. In the middle of the plaza, look for the statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, and then head west to scope out the statue of celebrated wordsmith Cervantes.
The western end of Gran Vía. Free.
Argüelles and Moncloa
TEMPLO DE DEBOD
C. de Ferraz, 1
TEMPLE, PARK
91 366 74 15 www.munimadrid.es/templodebod
On a nice day, this is one of the most beautiful spots in Madrid. In the ’60s, when massive flooding threatened to destroy the ancient temple complex at Au Simbel, Egypt, a team of Spanish archaeologists helped to rescue these national treasures. In appreciation, the Egyptian government shipped the Templo de Debod to Madrid’s Parque de la Montana, where you can now see the small archaeology exhibit housed inside. Outside of the temple is a series of original archways that are even more impressive at night, lit up and reflected in the adjacent
pool. The park surrounding the temple teems with families, runners, tourists, and locals lounging in the afternoon sun. Go to the lookout point behind the temple for one of the most beautiful views of Madrid.
Pl. de Espana. Walk to the far side of Pl. de Espana, cross the street, walk a couple of blocks right, and it will be on the left. Free. Open Apr-Sept Tu-F 10am-2pm and 6-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm; Oct-Mar Tu-F 9:45am-1:45pm and 4:15-6:15pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm. Rose garden open daily 10am-8pm.
ARCO DE LA VICTORIA
Near Parque Del Oeste
ARCH
If you’re getting off at the Moncloa stop, be sure to snap a picture by the Arco de la Victoria, a monument built in 1956 by order of General Franco to commemorate the rebel army’s victory in the Spanish Civil War. Of course, judging by the monument, you’d think that Franco and his friends came to power stomping through the country Julius-Caesar-style, but that glorious horse and chariot at the top of the arco is unfortunately just a few centuries too anachronistic. Surrounded by traffic, it looks almost like Madrid’s version of the Arc de Triomphe.
Moncloa.
PARQUE DEL OESTE
C. de Francisco y Jacinto Alcântara
PARK
A nice shaded place to come exercise during hot summer months, the Parque del Oeste is popular with families and tourists looking to take a nice stroll after a day of museum-hopping. Less crowded than the popular Retiro Park, Parque del Oeste is a lush break from the concrete jungle of western Madrid. If you’re parched, plenty of tiny cafes line Paseo del Pinto Rosales near the park. However, exercise caution as nighttime approaches, as the park gets a lot less charming and a lot more alarming after sunset.
Moncloa. Do not walk here after dark. Free. Open 24hr.
CASA DE CAMPO
Avenida de Portugal
PARK
Madrid’s biggest park, the sprawling Casa de Campo is a popular sight for locals and tourists alike. The park offers various exercise options, including long running and biking trails as well as kayak and rowboat rentals in its lake. For another type of heartrate booster, the amusement park Parque de Atracciones has roller coasters and more cotton candy than you could ever eat.(Batan or bus #33 or 65. From the metro station, turn right and walk up the paved street away from the lake. 914 63 29 00 www.parquedeatracciones.es Open M-Sa 9am-7pm.) To hang out with some new feathered friends, look no further than the park’s zoo and aquarium. (915 12 37 70 www.zoomadrid.com. Open daily, but check website for hours as schedule changes.)
Lago, Batan, and Casa de Campo are all within the park. Let’s Go does not advise walking here after dark. Free. Open 24hr.
Outside the City Center
EL PRADO
Paseo del Prado
PALACE
91 376 15 00
Originally built in the 15th century as a hunting lodge for Enrique IV, El Prado was also the permanent residence of Franco, who remained there until his death in 1975. On display are Franco’s bathroom, private prayer room, and bedroom cabinet where he kept Saint Teresa’s silver-encrusted petrified arm, one of his most treasured possessions. The palace also holds a Velázquez painting and Ribera’s Techo de los Hombres Ilustres (Ceiling of the Illustrious Men).
Moncloa. Take bus #601 from the underground bus station adjacent to Moncloa. €4, students and over 65 €2.30. Open Apr.-Sept M-Sa 10:30am-5:45pm, Su 9:30am-1:30pm; Oct-Mar. M-Sa 10:30am-4:45pm, Su 10am-1:30pm. Mandatory 45min. guided tour in Spanish; last tour leaves 45min. before closing.
FOOD
El Centro
Food in El Centro tends to be on the pricey side, as the area is rampant with tourists. If you’re sitting outside on the terrace, just grab a seat and the waiter will come to you. Many places will charge you for table bread, so don’t touch it if you don’t want to pinch pennies. Most restaurants in El Centro don’t provide free water, either, but will instead bring you their most expensive bottled mineral water with a fine vintage year—so stick to the house wine or explicitly ask for beverage prices. If you go down a winding cobblestone street, you’re bound to find a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with more reasonable prices. For those on an even tighter food budget, a nice alternative to eating out is to go to a local grocery store such as Dia or Carrefour or a small shop labeled alimentaciones to buy sandwich fixings and fruit for a bargain. You’ll find even better bargains at the Plaza de San Miguel marketplace.
EL ANCIANO REY DE LOS VINOS
C. de Bailén, 19
SPANISH
91 559 53 32 www.elancianoreydelosvinos.es
Right across the street from the Catedral de la Almudena, this is the perfect place to relax after a tour of the cathedral or Palacio Real. Sit outside on the terrace and sip an afternoon drink (€3.50). Try the Tinto de Verano, a refreshing wine-based drink similar to Sangria. El Anciano offers canapés (€6.50), salads (€10-15), a variety of tapas (€6-13), and sandwiches (€6) that all can be topped off with dessert (€5).
Walk across the C. de Bailén from the Catedral de la Almudena. Canapés €6.50. Tapas €6-13. Salads €10-15. Sandwiches €6. Open daily 10am-midnight.
CHOCOLATERÍA SAN GINÉS
Plaza de San Ginés, 5
CHOCOLATERÍA
91 366 54 31
An absolute late-night must for clubbers and early risers, this chocolatería is famous for its classic chocolate con churros (€4). After dancing off just as many calories, come here around 5 or 6am to cap your night off with a sweet treat.
From Puerta Del Sol, walk down C. Arenal until you get to Joy nightclub. It will be tucked in the tiny Plaza de San Ginés. Chocolates from €4. Open 24hr.
CERVECERÍA LA PLAZA
Plaza de San Miguel, 3
TAPAS
91 548 41 11
Locals and tourists come here to get relatively cheap tapas and entrees (under €10) to go with their cerveza. Hugely popular, Cervecería la Plaza has two locations, one in the Plaza de San Miguel and one in Plaza de Santa Ana. Both with packed outdoor terraces shaded by large umbrellas to protect against intense sun, they offer lively atmospheres with generous portions.
From the Palacio Real, walk down C. Mayor toward Puerta del Sol. Plaza de San Miguel will be on your right. Beers €3. Entrees and tapas under €10.
La Latina and Lavapiés
MANO A MANO
C.Lavapiés, 16
SPANISH
91 468 70 42
This small restaurant in Lavapiés cooks up authentic Spanish favorites in family-style portions. Bringing a family or a few friends who can seriously chow down? Go splitsies on one of their gigantic rice dishes packed with seafood and vegetables, or order solo and try one of their raciones like the Iberian ham (€12).
Lavapiés. Walk straight uphill up C. Lavapiés. Raciones €7-12. Rice dishes for 4 to 6 people €28. Open daily 2-5pm and 9pm-1am.
MARIMBA
C. de Lavapiés, 11
CAFE, BAR
Marimba is one of the more modern cafes in the Lavapiés district, offering beverages accompanied by tapas during the day and cocktails at night. You might have to stand with your drink next to Marimba’s sparse seating, but super attentive service makes up for the lack of space.
Lavapiés. Walk uphill on C. Lavapiés. Tapas €3.50. Coffee and tea €2. Cocktails €6. Open daily 11am-2am.
EL PALADAR
C. Argumosa, 5
CAFE
91 467 85 35
This tiny place only offers outdoor seating, but it’s a local favorite and a nice place to sit and relax in Lavapiés. Get a small snack (€3.50) or a larger racion (€6.50) of one of their regional specialities. If you’ve never had it, be sure to try horchata, a sweet refreshing summertime milk-like drink made from tigernuts.
Lavapiés. Walk east down C. Argumosa. Tapas €2-5. Raciones €5-10. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Huertas
DIBOCCA RESTAURANTE ITALIANO
Paseo de los Olmos, 28
ITALIAN
91 517 22 19 www.dibocca.com
If you’re sick of tapas and craving some Italian in the middle of Espagne, look no further than DiBocca, upscale environment without the pricetag. Try one of their regular or stuffed pastas (€10), salads (€8), meats and fish (€11), or desserts (€4.65) to get a taste even Snookie would enjoy.
From Puerta del Sol walk straight south down Pasea de los Olmos (tiny street). English menus available. Entrees €5-12.
LA NEGRA TOMASA
C. de Cádiz, 9
CUBAN
91 523 58 30 www.lanegratomasa.es/
Come to this fun Cuban restaurant for big portions, big drinks, and a raucous good time. Waitresses in Cuban garb serve up traditional Cuban fare in a restaurant with walls lined floor to ceiling with memorabilia. Try one of the main dishes like the Ropa Vieja Habanera (€8-12). Order para picar, tiny appetizers to share (€3-7), and while you’re there be sure to get a cocktails (€6-7).