Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Baixador de Vallvidrera (S1, S2), exit Barri of the Rectoret. Follow road to right, Mare is a few minutes up the mountain. Breakfast included. All rooms have fridge and lockers. Pool and restaurant. Dorms €14-22. Blankets €2. towels €2. Food €7-16.
SIGHTS
Barri Gòtic and Las Ramblas
COLUMBUS MONUMENT
Portal de la Pau
TOWER
93 302 52 24
Located where Las Ramblas meets the water, the Columbus Monument offers an unbeatable view of the city and a certain heart attack for those afraid of heights for just €3. The 60m statue was constructed from 1882-1888 in time for Barcelona’s World’s Fair in order to commemorate Barcelona’s role when Christopher Columbus met with King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella upon his return from the New World. Though it is said that the 7.2m statue at the top of the tower points west to the Americas, it actually points east, supposedly to his hometown of Genoa. Around the base of the column are reliefs depicting the journey, as well as bronze lions that are guaranteed to be mounted by tourists on any given hour.
Drassanes. Entrance located in base facing water. €3, seniors and children €2. Open daily May-Oct 9am-7:30pm, Nov-Apr 9am-6:30pm.
MUSEU D’HISTORIA DE LA CIUTAT
Pl. del Rei
HISTORY
93 256 21 00 www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
If you thought the winding streets of the Barri Gotíc were old school, check out the Museu d’Historia de la Ciutat nestled 20m underneath Pl. de Reial. Underneath this unassuming plaza lies the excavation site of archaeological remains of ancient Barcino, the Roman city from which Barcelona sprouted. One thing has remained the same—the people of this area love their booze, and huge ceramic wine flasks can be seen dotting the site, as well as intricate floor mosaics and strikingly well-preserved ruins ranging from the first to 6th centuries AD. The second part of the museum in the area features the comparatively new Palacio Reial Major, a 14th-century palace for Catalan-Aragonese monarchs that was built in part using the fourth-century Roman walls. Inside the palace, the expansive and impressively empty Gothic Saló de Tinell (Throne Room) is the seat of legend: here Columbus was received by Fernando and Isabel after his journey to the New World, while the Capilla de Santa Àgata avoids the fame of kitschy tales and goes right for the goods, hosting rotating exhibits about modern and contemporary Barcelona.
Jaume I. Free multilingual audio guides. Museum and exhibition €7, students and under 25 €5, under 16 free. Museum €6, students €4. Exhibition €1.80/1.10. Open Apr-Sept Tu-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-3pm; Oct-Mar Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-7pm, Su 10am-3pm.
CITY HALL
P. de Sant Jaume—Ciutat, 2
GOVERNMENT
93 402 70 00 www.bcn.es
The government-appropriate 18th century Neoclassical facade facing the Plaça hides a more interesting 15th century Gothic facade located at the old entrance to the left of the building (which is now also the tourist entrance). Inside City Hall are a myriad of treasures, both fantastical and more somber—the lower level is home to many pieces of sculpture from the Catalan masters (many of these same artists have work in the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalonia), while the upper level boasts impressively lavish architecture and interiors such as the Saló de Cent, where the Consell de Cent (Council of One Hundred) ruled the city from 1372-1714. Around certain holidays, the Giants of the Old City may be seen lurking the halls, towering figurines representing past kings and queens, horses, indecipherable monsters, and dragons.
Jaume I. Take a right onto C. de Jaume I after exiting the station. Once in Plaça de Jaume I, City Hall is on your left. Tourist info available at entrance. To enter, take alley to the left of City Hall and take a right onto C. Sant Miquel. Free. Tourist info open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 10am-8pm, Su and holidays 10am-2pm. City Hall open to public Su 10am-2pm.
LA BOQUERIA (MERCAT DE SANT JOSEP)
La Rambla, 89
MARKET
If you’re looking for the freshest tomatoes, leeks the size of a well-fed child’s arm, fruit prickly enough that it could second as a shirukin, sheep’s head (eyes included), or maybe just some nuts, the Boqueria has you covered in the most strikingly beautiful way. Though each neighborhood in Barcelona lays claim to its own mercado, Mercat de Sant Josep is not only the biggest and impressive in the city, but it also claims the title of largest-open air market in all of Spain. As a consequence, expect to have to fight your way through wildebeest-like hordes of locals and tourists alike to get those cherished lychee for your picnic on the beach. If filling your stomach from the glowing rows of perfectly arranged, perfectly ripe produce doesn’t satisfy your famished gut, restaurants surrounding the market offer meals made of fresh produce straight from the nearby vendors. For the frustrated vegans in the city, the market will be your godsend—just turn a blind eye to the ham legs hanging on the outskirts.
Liceu. Walk on Las Ramblas toward Plaça Catalonia and take a left onto Plaça de Sant Josep. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, though some individual stands stay open after 9pm.
CATEDRAL DE CANTA CRUZ Y SANTA EULALIA DE BARCELONA
P. de la Seu
CATHEDRAL
93 315 15 54 www.catedralbcn.org
Behold: the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Santa Eulalia (La Seu, for short) and its ever-present construction-related accoutrements, Barcelona’s only cathedral and a marvel of beauty and perserverance. The impressive scaffolding rig and skeletal spire drawing attention away from the Gothic facade are actually signs of what you’ll see advertised with the “Sponsor a Stone” campaign in the interior—costly renovations that began in 2005. The cathedral is no stranger to drawn out projects, however. Although construction on the cathedral began in 1298, the main building wasn’t finished until 1460, the front facade until 1889, and the central spire until 1913.
Once you’ve been funneled through the scaffolding and into the main building’s interior, almost all signs of construction disappear. Soaring vaulted ceilings mark the nave, and decadently decorated chapels—28 in all—line the central space. Most important, however, is the cathedra (bishop’s throne) that designates this building as a cathedral and is found on the altar. Don’t miss the crypt of Saint Eulalia, located at the bottom of the stairs in front of the altar.
To the right of the altar (through a door marked “Exit”) is the entrance to the cloister, a chapel-laden courtyard enclosing palm trees and thirteen white ducks that are intended to remind visitors of Saint Eulalia’s age at the time of her martyrdom. Here you will find the cathedral’s museum, which hides various religious paintings and altarpieces in various stages of needing to be cleaned, a very gold monstrance (used during communion), and, in the Sala Capitular, Bartolomé Bermejo’s Pietà. If you only have €2 to spend, pay to take the lift instead—you’ll get up close and personal with one of the church’s spirals and find yourself with a breathtaking view of the city.
Jaume I. Left onto Via Laietana and then left onto Av. de la Catedral. Catedral free. Museum €2. Elevator €2.50. Tours €5. Free admission M-F 8am-12:45pm and 5:15-7:30pm, Sa 8am-12:45pm and 5:15-8pm, Su 8am-1:45pm and 5:15-8pm. Visitor admission M-Sa 1-4:30pm. Inquire about guided visit to museum, choir, rooftop terraces, and towers.
PALAU DE LA GENERALITAT
GOVERNMENT
90 240 00 12 www.gencat.cat/generalitat/eng/guia/palau/index.htm
Facing the Plaça Sant Jaume I and the Ajuntament, the Palau de la Generalitat provides a second reason this plaza is incredibly popular with protestors and petitioners. The Renaissance facade dates from the early 17th century, hiding a Gothic structure that was obtained by the Catalan government in 1400. Although the majority of visitors will be stuck admiring its wonderfully authoritative feel from the exterior, with a bit of magic in the way of good timing it is possible to see the interior. Inside, visitors will find a Gothic gallery, an orange tree courtyard, St. George’s Chapel, a bridge to the house of the President, many historic sculptures and paintings, and the Palau�
��s carillon, a 4898 kg instrument consisting of 49 bells that is played on holidays and for special events.
Jaume. Take a right onto C. de Jaume I after exiting the station. Once in Plaça de Jaume I, Palau is on your right. Free. Open to the public on Apr 23, Sep 11, and Sep 24, and on 2nd and 4th Su of each month from 10am-2pm.
GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU
La Rambla, 51-59
THEATER
934 85 99 00 www.liceubarcelona.com
Along the sometimes dirty paths, animal cages, and peddlers of Las Ramblas is one of the Europe’s grandest stages that specializes in opera and classical performances. The Baroque interior of the auditorium will leave you gawking at the fact that it dates back only to 1999 when the interior was reconstructed after a 1995 fire (though, to be fair, it is an exact reconstruction of the previous auditorium). A 20min. tour provides a glimpse of the ornate Sala de Espejos (Room of Mirrors), where Apollo and the Muses look down upon opera-goers during intermission, and the five-layered bedazzled auditorium, where you may catch a director yelling furiously during a rehearsal if you are lucky. For a more in-depth tour that won’t leave you spending half of your time looking at stackable chairs in the foyer or being told about the donors list (though it does include Placido Domingo), be sure to either come for the 1hr. tour at 10am, arrange a behind-the-scenes tour with the box office, or attend a performance in person.
Liceu. Discount tickets available. 20min. tour €4, 1hr. tour €8. Box office open M-F 10am-2pm and 2-6pm. 20min. tours start every 30min. daily 11:30am-1pm; 1hr. tour daily at 10am.
P. DE L’ÀNGEL
Corner of Via Laietana and C. de la Princessa
HISTORY
The square immediately surrounding the Jaume I may now seem like nothing but a place to grab a good pastry, but in the days of Roman Barcino this spot was the main gate into the city. To revel in some of this seemingly absent history, simply walk parallel to Via Laietana, the busy street forming one side of the square’s border. For a more contemporary piece of history (though sitll dating from the triple digits CE), look no further than the the angel statue facing the street that happens to be pointing to her toe. This sculpture commemorates the event from which the plaza got its name—reportedly when carrying the remains of Saint Eulalia to the cathedral from Santa Maria del Mar, the caravan came to the plaça. Suddenly, the remains became to heavy to carry, and upon setting down the remains, an angel appeared and pointed to her own toe, alerting the carriers that one of the church officials had stolen Santa Eulalia’s little digit.
Jaume I. Free.
ROMAN WALLS
HISTORY
Scattered throughout the Ciutat Vella, portions of the Roman remains are marked clearly with orange and black info plaques by the city, and it’s hard not to run into at least one of them. For those history buffs looking for the most bang for their buck, walk down C. Tapineria (it’s to your back as you exit the metro station), a narrow street connecting Plaça de l’Angel and Plaça Ramon Berenguer. This street holds the most concentrated number of fourth-century wall remains, though they may be hard to spot, as they are entirely incorporated into the base of the 14th-century Palau Reial Major. The second area of interest is the Plaça Seu in front of the Cathedral, which may be reached by following C. Tapineria and taking a left onto Av. de la Catedral. To the left of the Cathedral is the only remaining octagonal tower, and to the right are a reconstruction of the Roman aqueduct and other smaller remains. For those hankering for more, a map listing all visible Roman remains in the city may be found on the information placards near each site.
Jamue I. Free.
Las Ramblas
Beginning along the sea and cutting straight through to Plaça Catalonia, Las Ramblas is Barcelona’s world-famous main pedestrian throughfare that attracts flocks of visitors and flocks of people attempting to draw money from said visitors. Lined with trees, cafes, tourist traps, human statues, beautiful buildings, and pickpockets, the five distinct promenades combine seamlessly to create the most lively and exciting pedestrian area in the city. The Ramblas, in order from Plaça Catalonia to the Columbus Monument are: La Rambla de les Canaletes, La Rambla dels Estudis, La Rambla de Sant Josep, La Rambla dels Cataputxins, and La Rambla de Santa Monica.
LA RAMBLA DELS ESTUDIS
Las Ramblas
PROMENADE
Named for the university that was once located here (estudis means “studies” in Catalan), the path is now closer to a lesson in animal taxonomy than scholarly topics. Known as “Las Ramblas dels Ocells” (literally, of the birds), the shops along this stretch of pavement sell everything from rabbits to guinea pigs, iguanas to turtles, ducks to parrots, and much more. Here is your place to pick up a pigeon, and with some good training, you may soon be able to sidestep Spain’s postal service. This area justifiably becomes the target of Barcelona’s active and outraged animal rights proponents, but there seems to be no indication that Las Ramblas will be any less furry, fluffy, or feathery anytime soon.
Catalonia. Walk toward the water.
LA RAMBLA DE SANT JOSEP
Las Ramblas
PROMENADE
If you’re looking for a bouquet for that special someone, or you’ve just decided that your hostel bathroom could really benefit from a few rose petals, La Rambla de Sant Josep is your place. Flower shops line this stretch of the pedestrian avenue, giving it the nickname “La Rambla de les Flors.” Following the theme of living things now dead, the impressive Boqueria is found along this stretch, along with the once-grand and now practically gutted Betlem Church. The end of this promenade is marked classily by Joan Miró’s mosaic in the pavement at Plaça Boqueria.
Liceu. Walk toward Plaça Catalonia.
LA RAMBLA DELS CATAPUTXINS
Las Ramblas
PROMENADE
La Rambla dels Cataputxins boasts access to Liceu and a straight shot to Plaça Sant Jaume I via C. Ferran, which runs directly through the center of the Gothic Quarter. Cafes and restaurants line this portion of Las Ramblas, and eager business owners will try desperately to pull you into their lair—if “tapas” and specials listed in English don’t do it first. Littered with eye candy such as the Casa Bruno Cuadros (corner of C. Boqueria and Las Ramblas, the one with the dragon in front), Teatre Liceu, and a mosaic by Joan Miró, this portion of Las Ramblas is often the busiest.
Liceu. Walk toward the sea.
LA RAMBLA DE SANTA MÒNICA
Las Ramblas
PROMENADE
Ending at the feet of Christopher Columbus himself, La Rambla de Santa Monica leads the boulevard to the waterfront. This portion of the path is the widest and, unlike its saintly name would suggest, the most packed with vices and temptation. Though filled with artists peddling their takes on Miró, your face, or dolphins in the shape of letters during the day, at night the area becomes thick with prostitutes agressively looking for confused potential clients. In the same debaucherous spirit, Santa Mònica is also the only place on Las Ramblas home to peep shows.
Drassanes.
LA RAMBLA DE LES CANALETES
Las Ramblas
PROMENADE
The head of Las Ramblas when walking from Plaça Catalonia to the water, this rambla is named after the fountain that marks its start—Font de les Canaletes. Surprisingly unceremonious, the fountain is not a spewing spectacle of lights and water jets but instead a fancy drinking fountain with four spouts, rumored to make those who drink its water fall in love with the city. These days the fountain has amusingly run dry, however, so be sure to fill your Nalgene elsewhere, sans love potion.
Catalonia.
BETLEM CHURCH
La Rambla, 89
CHURCH
Upon its construction in 1680-1729 on the site of an earlier church dating from 1553, the ”Our Lady of Bethlehem” Church served as an important nucleus for the Jesuit school in Barcelona until their explusion from Spain in 1767. Today, Betlem Church’s fortification-like facade running along Las Ramblas is hard
to miss. The church does have a softer side, however—facing the C. Carme is a Baroque facade flanked by sculptures of Jesuit saints Ignacio de Loyola and Francisco de Borja, both completed by Catalan sculptor Andreu Sala. Also stretching over the entrance is a representation of the Nativity by Francesc Santacruz.
With such an intriguing exterior, the interior of the church is bound to disappoint. Once considered one of the most beautiful churches in Spain, the unadorned single nave and sparsely populated surrounding chapels leave knowledgeable visitors wondering just what happened to its former glory. Though the edifice itself has been largely restored, the Church’s simple interior remains a victim of the Spanish Civil War, when Leftist fire caused the entire vaulting system to collapse and destroyed the interior. Some chapels have been refurbished using altarpieces from other churches and private collections with some of the more beautiful and elaborate pieces located in the chapels along the left side of the nave. Betlem currently functions as a parish church and offers daily mass in both Spanish and Catalan.