Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Liceu. Walk on Las Ramblas toward Plaça Catalonia. Betlem Church is on the left after the Boqueria. Free. Open daily 8:30am-1:40pm and 6-9pm. Masses in Catalan and Castellano.
La Ribera
DISSENY HUB BARCELONA (DHUB)
C. Montcada, 12; Av. Diagonal, 686
DESIGN, ART
93 256 23 00 www.dhub-bcn.cat
Ever dream of making a chair simply with a beam of light? Chances are you haven’t, but just in case you have (or you’re curious how it’s even possible), Disseny Hub Barcelona will show you said chair, let you touch it, and even explain every single step of its magical creation. Split over two buildings nearly a town apart, Disseny Hub Barcelona focuses on showcasing Barcelona’s cutting edge contemporary art with a commercial edge through amazing historical displays, video supplements, and a creative laboratory that fosters the budding designer in even the least creative visitor. The Montcada branch, located across from the Museu Picasso, houses temporary exhibitions and study galleries that test the limits of the imagination, including everything from heat sensitive wallpaper to an automated dessert printer. Just across town, the Palau de Pedralbes hosts the Museu de les Arts Decoratives and the Museu Tèxtil i d’Indumentària, both highlighting the evolution of art objects and fashion from the Romanesque to the Industrial Revolution with enough quirky artifacts and period dress to make it worth the trek. Currently, the price of admission provides access to both museums, but look for both to be housed under the same roof in the upcoming year as the primary home of the Disseny Hub Barcelona is finished in Plaça de les Gloriès Catalanes in 2011.
Montcada: Jaume I. From Metro, walk down C. de la Princesa and turn right onto C. de Montacada. Pedralbes: Palau Reial. New combined museum to be opened in 2011 in Plaça de les Glories. Admission to both centers €5. Free Su 3-8pm. Montcada open Tu-Sa 11am-7pm, Su 11am-8pm. Pedralbes open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
PICASSO MUSEUM
C. Montcada, 15-23
ARCHITECTURE, ART
93 256 30 00 www.museupicasso.bcn.es
Tucked away amongst the bodegas and medieval charms of Ribera is the Museu Picasso—five connected mansions dedicated to showcasing what Picasso’s work was like before he was cool. His early years’ collection is organized chronologically, providing insight into his development into the international star of Cubism. However, the collection is not completely Barça-centric. Paintings from after his time in Paris show the influence of the Impressionists he encountered, while several works from his Blue and Rose periods help to literally paint a picture of his past. The most sweeping gesture of influence is easily the room of the artist’s 58 renditions of Velázquez’s Las Meninas, where the iconic Spanish painter’s work is spiked and contorted into a nightmare landscape of Cubist forms. Temporary exhibits highlight the work of Picasso’s contemporaries, though the museum would easily attract the same droves of visitors without them. Expect a long wait along the crowded street of Montcada during any day of the week, especially on Sundays when the museum is free. To beat the throngs of people, try hitting up the museum early or waiting until the later hours.
Jaume I. From the Metro, walk down C. de la Princesa and turn right onto C. de Montacada. Free entrance on first Su of each month. €8.50 (valid for 2 days, only for permanent exhibits). Annual subscription (permanent and temporary exhibits included) €14. Open Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-2:30pm.
PARC DE LA CIUTADELLA
Between Psg. de Picasso, C. Pujades, and C. Wellington
PARK, MUSEUMS
Once the site of the Spanish fortress built by King Felipe V in the 18th century, the park was transformed into its current state after the citadel was destroyed in preparation for the Universal Exhibition of 1888. This sprawling complex designed by Josep Fontserè includes copious green space as well as various modernista buildings from the period. Points of architectural interest span from two areas: the antique fort holds the governor’s palace, arsenal, and capilla, and the Exhibition in 1888 area showcases century-old gems, many of which are still in use today. The steel and glass Hivernacle, a greenhouse-turned-civic-space near the Pujades entrance, maintains its original function as well as its newer one as a concert venue. The Natural History Museum (93 319 69 12) continues educating crowds and completing conservation work between its two locations. The Museu Martorell functions as a geology museum, and the Castillo de los Tres Dragones, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner (of Palau de Música Catalana and Hospital de Santa Creu fame) comprises the Zoological Museum building and the entrance to the Barcelona Zoo (90 245 75 45 www.zoobarcelona.cat). The extravagant Cascada Monumental fountain located in the center of the park, designed in part by Antoni Gaudí, still provides a spectacle for any visitor. Though a newer addition, the mastodon near the entrance of the zoo makes for an excellent photo opportunity.
For those just looking to use the park as, well, a park, bike trails run around the exterior walls, and dirt pedestrian paths break up the lush grass and tree-shaded pockets. Expect to see nearly every corner covered in picnickers during the summer months, and be sure to stop by and join the locals for a bath in the fountain.
Arc de Triomf. Walk through the arch and down the boulevard to enter the park. Free Wi-Fi available at the Geological Museum, Parliament building, and Zoological Museum. Park free. Museum €4.10-5.60, Su 3-8pm free. Zoo €16. Park open daily 10am-dusk. Natural History Museum open Tu-Sa 10am-6:30pm, Su 10am-8pm. Zoo open May 16-Sep 15 10am-7pm; Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-Dec 10am-5pm; Jan-Feb 10am-5pm; Mar-May 15 10am-6pm.
PALAU DE LA MÚSICA CATALANA
C. Sant Francesc de Paula, 2
MUSIC HALL
902 47 54 85 www.palaumusic.com
Serving as a home to both Barcelona’s Orfeo Choir and the Catalan musical spirit, the Palau is a one-stop shop for every kind of music—from flamenco to blues to classical to pop. Even if you can’t find a concert to fit your fancy (or budget), the guided tour of the building (the only other way possible to see the interior) is a must-see. In this 1908 modernista masterpiece, Lluís Domènech i Montaner, architect of the Hospital de Sant Pau, Casa Fuster, and the Castell dels Tres Dragons, shaped an awe-inspiring building from brick, stone, iron, and glass. The frustrating impossibility of getting a good view of the exterior is due to Montaner assuming a plaza would be constructed in the front; unfortunately, this never happened, and now tourist pictures are taken from the windows of neighboring buildings facing the facade. Luckily, the exquisite interior more than makes up for this visual tease. The breathtaking stained-glass dome and long, tall stained glass windows shed light on the seating-turned-garden, complete with intricate ceramic flowers decorating the ceiling. Above and around the stage, angels representing musical instruments interact with musicians such as Wagner and Beethoven, trees, and stampeding horses. Back in commission after a 30 year hiatus, the Palau’s 3000-tube organ stands front and center on the upper portion of the hall. Although they offer reduced admission concerts regularly, if you’re dying to hear what it sounds like, just ask your tour guide—chances are they’ll play a pre-programmed song just for your group.
Jaume I. Walk on Via Laietana toward the Cathedral. Walk for about 5min. and take a right onto C. Sant Pere Mas Alt. Palau will be on your left. Schedule of events and ticketing info available on website. Guided tours €12, students €10. 50 min. guided tours daily 10am-3:30pm, with English on the hour and Catalan and Spanish on the half hours. Aug and Easter week tours 10am-6pm. Box office open 9am-9pm.
El Raval
CENTRE DE CULTURA CONTEMPORÀNIA DE BARCELONA (CCCB)
C. de Montalegre, 5
ART
93 306 41 00 www.cccb.org
A literal hub for anything involving the more contemplative ideas of the city, the Centre de Cultural Contemporània de Barcelona boasts everything from art exhibitions to lectures on Gilles Deleuze to theater to literature to help trying to figure out what the hell public and private space really means. Three exhibition galleries, two lecture halls, an aud
itorium, and a bookstore fill the striking architectural complex, consisting of an early 20th-century theater-turned-supersleek glass-expansion-wing. Paired with the thought-provoking collections of nearby MACBA, the CCCB offers everything you’ll need to inspire that next existential crisis.
Universitat. Walk down C. Pelai and take the 1st right and then a left onto C. Tallers. Take a right onto C. Valldonzella and a left onto C. Montalegre, which will place you in front of the Museum complex. Guided visits in Spanish Th 6pm, Sa 11:30am. One exhibition €4.50. Two or more exhibitions €6, under 25 €3.40, under 15 free. €3.40 on W; free on 1st W of month, Th from 8-10pm and Su 3-8pm. Open Tu-W 11am-8pm, Th 11am-8pm, F-Su 11am-8pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
MUSEU D’ART CONTEMPORANI DE BARCELONA (MACBA)
P. dels Angels, 1
ART
93 412 08 10 www.macba.cat
If the teeny art galleries and student-studded eateries around El Raval have struck your fancy, consider checking out the culture hub that helped to spawn them all. Bursting out of the narrow streets and into its own spacious plaza, the bright white geometries of American architect Richard Meier’s 1995 building have made an indelible mark on the land, both architecturally and culturally, by almost single-handedly turning the area into a regional cultural and artistic center. The stark, simple interior plays host to an impressive collection of contemporary art, with particular emphasis on Spanish and Catalan artists, including a world-renowned collection of interwar avant-garde art. Due to its prime location near the Universitat and its undeniable appeal to local youth, MACBA prides itself on hip happenings. During the summer, “Nits de MACBA” keeps the doors open until midnight on Thursday and Friday nights, with free guided tours and reduced admission. Students and art afficionados alike flock to the popular hangout to catch one of the more experimental rotating exhibits, exciting complements to the static permanent collection. As if this weren’t enough, the museum completely transforms during Barcelona’s Sonar music festival every year, magically converting into the Sonar Complex stage and denying admittance to all those without a festival ticket.
Universitat. Walk down C. Pelai and take the 1st right and then a left onto C. Tallers. Take a right onto C. Valldonzella and a left onto C. Montalegre, which will place you in front of the Museum complex. Guided tours in English included in ticket purchase. Entrance to all exhibits €7.50, students €6; temporary exhibits €6/4.50. One-year pass €12. Open June 24-Sept 24 M 11am-8pm, W 11am-8pm, Th-F 11am-midnight, Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-3pm; Sept 25-June 23 M 11am-7:30pm, W-F 11am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-3pm.
RIERA BAIXA
C. de la Riera Baixa
FLEA MARKET, SECONDHAND
www.facebook.com/pages/Riera-Baixa
A street lined entirely with secondhand shops, Riera Baixa is a mecca for any bargain or vintage shopper. The main attraction happens on Saturdays when clothes, records, trinkets, cameras, and an unfathomable amount of other stuff combine with Raval’s largely student population, giving birth to the most exciting flea market in the city.
Liceu. Walk down C. de l’Hospital and take a slight right onto C. de la Riera Baixa. Fleamarket Sa 11am-9pm. Shops open daily.
PALAU GÜELL
C. Nou de la Rambla, 3
ARCHITECTURE
933 17 39 74 www.palauguell.cat
Commissioned by Eusebi Güell, a wealthy textile industrialist of Parc Güell fame, Güell Palace was designed by renowned architect Antoni Gaudí and completed in 1888. The Palace holds the distinction of being the only building that Gaudí completed, and it hasn’t been significantly altered since. The building is currently closed for restoration and renovation, but it will be open for public visits beginning in April 2011.
Liceu. Walk toward the water on Las Ramblas and take a right onto C. Nou de la Rambla. Closed until April 2011. No tourist information available until reopening.
L’Eixample
FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TAPIES
C. Aragó, 255
ARCHITECTURE, ART
93 487 03 15 www.fundaciotapies.org
Housed in a building by modernista architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner, the Fundació Antoni Tapies is made unmissable by its mess of wire and steel atop a low brick roofline, a sculpture by its namesake Antoni Tapies entitled “Núvol i Cadira,” or “Cloud and Chair” (1990) that supposedly shows a chair jutting out of a large cloud. Once inside, the lower two levels are dedicated to temporary exhibitions on incredible modern and contemporary artists and themes, recently holding work by Eva Hesse and Steve McQueen. Ascend to the top floor to find the gallery space dedicated to famous Catalan artists, including Antoni Tapies himself. Paintings and sculpture using found materials shed new light on Catalonia’s turbulent past, while summer nights light up with DJ nights, free drinks, and after-hours galleries.
Passeig de Gràcia. Walk toward the mountain on Psg. de Gràcia and take a left onto C. Aragó. The museum has a funky mess of wire on top. €7, reduced €5.60. Free May 18 and Sept. 24. Open Tu-Su 10am-8pm.
SAGRADA FAMILIA
C. Mallorca, 401
ARCHITECTURE
93 208 04 14 www.sagradafamilia.cat
If you know Barcelona, you know Sagrada Familia—its eight completed towers and fanciful forms befitting of its Gaudí nametag have been plastered on tourist magazines, highlighted in movie advertisements, and featured in every panorama of the city ever photographed in the modern era. And with over 120 years of construction, the cranes surrounding the Sagrada Familia complex have become as iconic as the temple itself.
Although still a work in progress, Sagrada Familia’s construction began way back in 1882. The super-pious, super-conservative Spiritual Association for Devotion to St. Joseph (or the Josephines) commissioned the building as a reaction to the liberal ideas spreading through Europe in the decades prior. It was intended as an Expiatory Temple for Barcelona in commemoration of the Sacred Family—Mary, Jesus, and Joseph. When searching for an architect, the Josephines looked in-house and picked Diocesan architect Francisco de Paula del Villar as their main man, but the relationship quickly turned sour, and one year later the church replaced him with Gaudí after only the Gothic foundations had been laid.
At the time of employment, Gaudí was just 30 years of age, and he would continue to work on the building until his death over forty years later. Modest private donations founded the construction of the church in the beginning, but after the completion of the crypt in 1889, the church received an incredibly generous private donation allowing Gaudí to step up his game. This extra cash gave birth to the design that would make the building both the most ambitious and the most impossible to complete in the city. After building the Nativity Facade, a drop in private donations slowed construction, and in 1909 temporary schools were built next to the church for workers’ children. Gaudí set up shop on-site a few years later, living next to his incomplete masterpiece until his brutal death by tram just outside of the church’s walls in 1926. Fittingly, he was buried inside the Carmen Chapel of the crypt.
Gaudí’s bizarre demise marked the start of a tragic period for the temple. The Civil War brought construction entirely to a hault, and in 1936 arsonists raided Gaudí’s tomb, mashed the plaster models of the site, and burned every document in the workshop, effectively destroying all artifacts of the architect’s original intention. Since then, plans for the construction have been based off of the remaining reconstructed plaster models, with computers only recently being used to help understand their complex mathematics.
Currently, the building remains under the auspices of the Josephines, and architect Jordi Bonet, whose father worked directly with Gaudí, remains in charge of the overall direction. The Cubist Passion Facade (Passion being the crucifixion, death, and resurrection of Christ) faces Pl. de la Sagrada Família, and was completed by Josep Marià Subirachs in 1998. Its angular and abstracted forms are a far cry from Gaudí’s original plans for the facade in 1911 and provide a stark contrast to his own more tra
ditional Nativity Facade on the opposite face. The first mass was held inside the gutted church in 2000 for celebration of the milennium, and the church’s apse is projected for completion in the upcoming year thanks to a continuous stream of popular donations (read: your ticket price).
If all goes well, the projected completion date is 2026, coincidentally both the 100th anniversary of Gaudí’s death and the date that hell is predicted to freeze over. Until then, paintings of the completed building line the adjacent Casa Museu Gaudí, and an exhibition dedicated to the mathematical models let you imagine the completed building that you’ll probably never get to experience.
Sagrada Familia. Guided tours in English May-Oct at 11am, 1pm, 3pm, and 4pm; Nov-Apr at 11am and 1pm. €11, students €9, under 10 free. Elevator €2.50. Combined ticket with Casa-Museu Gaudí €13, students €11. Open daily Apr-Sept 9am-8pm, Oct-Mar 9am-6pm. Last elevator to the tower 15min. before close.
CASA BATTLÓ
Pg. de Gràcia, 43