Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Located across Avenida de Constitución from the Cathedral down Plaza Cristo de Burgos. Plates €1.55-€3.55. Tablas €5.05-10.75 Open daily 1:30-4:30pm and 8:30pm-12:15am.
El Centro
CONFITERIA LA CAMPAÑA
C. Sierpes, 1-3
BAKERY
954 223 570
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, we’ve found your kryptonite. La Campaña has been serving up desserts since 1885 and has definitely mastered the task. The staff, dressed in parlor-esque aprons with headbands for the women and striped vests and bowties for the men, welcomes you and indulges your cravings. Served since the restaurant’s opening, the cervantinas and ingleses are classics you’ve got to try. The ingleses (€2.20), their most popular dessert, provides a sweet flan-like flavor without the gooey texture. Not feeling so adventurous? La Campaña also sells meringues, éclairs, truffles, cakes, and tarts (€1.80-2.20). If you’re looking for a real meal (although we can’t imagine why you’d turn down a couple different courses of dessert), La Campaña also serves some fancier savory items such as smoked salmon and fresh cheese sandwiches—in short, you’re gonna want to use your get-out-of-diet free card to go loco.
If walking from the Ayuntamiento down C. Sierpes, it will be on the right. All desserts €1.80-2. 20. Open daily in summer 8am-11pm; in fall, winter, and spring 8am-10pm.
LA BODEGA DE LA ALFALFA
C. Alfalfa, 4
TRADITIONAL, TAPAS
954 227 362
For those who want their food fast but also want to hang out, La Bodega offers the tastiest, most traditional tapas around, serving it before you can even pick out which barrel along the wall you’ll use as a table. The restaurant, centered around a bar that serves up all its food and drinks, has some of the friendliest, most enthusiastic waiters around, ready to gush about their favorite traditional dishes. The mambru carmelo (€2.10), made of a brie-like cheese topped with sugar and honey and then baked to carmelize the sugar, combines sweet and savory like you’ve never experienced before. The bacaloa al estilo la viuda (€2.20), a house specialty seafood, will have you licking your plate to get every drop of the tomato sauce garnish (maybe use some bread to scoop it up for the sake of looking less savage). The regulars tend to order a side of olives and one of the beers on tap, so maybe try that if you’re trying to live like the locals.
Located right off Plaza de Alfalfa at the base of C. Alfalfa. Tapas €1.80-2.20. Entrees €5-9. Open daily 2:30-4pm and 8pm-midnight.
EL RINCONCILLO
C. Gerona 40-Alhóndiga, 2
TRADITIONAL, TAPAS
954 223 183 www.elrinconcillo.es
Opened in 1670, El Rinconcillo is the oldest tapas bar in Sevilla, and the tiled walls and warm lighting are clear relics of this historic past. Rinconcillo has definitely used its experience to get its staff in perfect working order—they serve so many people that they manage to keep tabs chalked on the bar without getting even a speck of white powder on their dressy uniforms. This place is even swanky enough for your senior prom (well, maybe a prom 25 years ago). Ask anyone for the house special and they’ll tell you to try the Pavia—deep fried bacaloa served straight from the frier.
Located on a tiny street behind Iglesia Santa Catalina if coming from the Plaza de Ponce de Leon. Tapas €1.80-2.80. Open daily 1pm-1:30am.
HABANITA
C. Golfo 3
INTERNATIONAL, VEGETARIAN
606 716 456 www.habanita.es
Habanita represents the antithesis of typical Sevillian eating. While the secluded courtyard and mellow atmosphere could be a relaxing break from the party scene booming in nearby Plaza Alfalfa, the service is frustratingly slow and the prices continue to add up from the expensive courses and extra “service and bread” charge. We’ve yet to decide whether the combination of yucca, bolognese, cous cous, and ratatouille on one menu is a case of healthy variety or an identity crisis. While we’d suggest you save this option until you just can’t even look at another tapa, we also recognize that the vegetarian and vegan distinctions on the menu will be extremely helpful to our more diet-specific travelers.
Off the far right corner of Plaza Alfalfa when entering the plaza from C. Alfalfa. Half-portions €4.15-8.25. Cocktails €4.50-5.75. Open daily 12:30-4:30pm and 8pm-12:30am.
La Macarena
ESLAVA
C. Eslava, 5
TAPAS
954 906 568 rb@restauranteeslava.es
Although the restaurant’s pricier options will probably burn a hole in your wallet before you finish your meal, you should definitely try the deliciious food at Eslava—even if it’s only one plate of tapas. While it’s filled to the brim in both the late afternoon and evening, try to squeeze your way through the crowd to place an order. All the ingredients are totally fresh, from the wide selection of raw shellfish (half €6-8, full €12-17) to the produce brought in straight from the owner’s farm between June and October. Get your hands on those veggies by ordering the strudel de verduras (€2.20). You’d be crazy to skip the over-easy egg served on top of a mushroom cake with mushroom sauce and honey (€2.20)—it won first prize for Sevilla’s best tapa in 2010. Eslava is by no means a touristy establishment, but it rakes in locals and tourists alike.
Take C. Santa Ana from the Alameda and turn left once you see C. Santa Clara. Bar and restaurant separate. Tapas €2.20. Drinks €1-2. Bar open daily 12:30-4:30pm and 8pm-midnight. Restaurant open daily 1-4pm and 9-11pm.
CASA PACO
Alameda de Hércules, 23
TRADITIONAL
663 959 266
While Casa Paco serves an array of classic Sevillian dishes from salmorejo (€2.50), a chilled soup similar to gazpacho, to carrillada (€3.50), pig’s cheek, its general ambience is a nice break from the typical dark, divey Sevillian tapas bar. The prices are a little higher than the competition nearby, but it’s clearly worth it—the place is packed on any summer night starting at 9pm. Even the pharmacist next door promotes Casa Paco to her customers (after bagging your prescription, of course). Her favorite revuelto de papas (€2.50), a Spanish-style egg and potato omelette, is a unique version of the classic Spanish tortilla.
If coming from the Torneo, turn right off C. Santa Ana at the Alameda. Tapas €2.50-4. Entrees €7-12. Wine and beer €1.50-2.50. Open daily 1:30-4:30pm and 8:30pm-midnight.
El Arenal and Triana
FARO DE TRIANA
Puente Isabel II (Puente de Triana)
TRADITIONAL, SEAFOOD, VIEWS
954 336 192
You may get a bit discouraged walking down C. Betis and seeing restaurant after restaurant offering fresh seafood at painfully expensive prices. What’s the backpacker to do? Faro de Triana may be your solution. While not cheap, Faro provides slightly lower prices without any loss of quality. You can keep it casual and still get the freshest fish around. Like most of the restaurants along the canal, Faro specializes in its fried (½ portion €9, full €15) and whole grilled (€15-18) fish options. The heaping half portions are large enough to fill you up and maybe even take you out of commission for your next meal. Even the location and seating options can’t be beat: for great views and some A/C, eat at the bar; for a classier dining experience, try the lower dining room; and for some snacking along the canal, take your meal to the outdoor patio.
Immediately to the left once you cross Puente de Triana. Half portions €9, full €15-18. Open M-Sa 8am-midnight. Open later on the weekends.
BLANCA PALOMA
San Jacinto, 49
TAPAS, TRADITIONAL, SEAFOOD
605 816 187
Upon entering Blanca Paloma, you’ll be immediately impressed by this clean, classy restuarant with a stunning wooden bar and charming red curtains. While Trianans love their larger fish platters, Blanca Paloma proves that they haven’t neglected the tapas culture. You can still get top seafood—their eggplant stuffed with shrimp (€2.10) and shrimp with garlic (½ portion €6, full €12) are highly recommended—but you’ve also got the op
tion to enjoy more classic tapas and meat dishes. While the staff will be happy to recommend their favorite dishes, just grab one of the many local regulars sitting at the bar, and they’ll pour their hearts out on the best way to fill your belly.
At the intersection of San Jacinto and C. Pajes del Corro. On the farther right corner if coming from Puente de Triana. Tapas €1.80-3, ½ portions €5.40-9, full €9-15. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm and 7pm-midnight, Sa 12:30-4:30pm and 8:30pm-12:30am, Su 8:30am-4:30pm and 7pm-midnight.
MERCADO DE TRIANA
Intersection of San Jorge and Altozano
MARKETPLACE
The cleanest, best organized, air-conditioned marketplace you’ll find in Sevilla. Hop between vendors, checking out the freshest produce, meats, and pastries, and stop at the souveneir shop on your way out. Bar La Muralla (Mercado de Triana 72 954 344 302 Open M-Sa 6:30am-3pm.) in the back of the Mercado uses all the products offered in the marketplace to serve lunch and breakfast to its enthusiastic local customers. You’ll get laughed at if you ask for a menu—they don’t even have one! Just ask for a recommendation and they’ll tell you about all the fresh products that have come in that day (tapas €2.20-3, ½ portions €6). La Muralla is a particularly perfect place to grab a breakfast of churros con chocolate or a lunch to go.
On the right-hand side at the base of the Puente de Triana. Open M-Sa 7:30am-3pm. Hours for specific vendors vary.
NIGHTLIFE
Santa Cruz
Not necessarily the party capital of Sevilla, Santa Cruz still has some nice spots to get your drink on, see a show, and enjoy some late-night tapas. Most of the hotspots retain their local flair despite the loads of tourists frequently this district. If you’re looking for where the locals are spending their nights in the Santa Cruz area, make your way to Plaza de Alfalfa and the small surrounding streets. You’ll find Sevillians dominating the outdoor patios of the bars and restaurants, snacking on caracoles, snails, and enjoying an inexpensive pitcher of sangria or tall glass of beer.
BAR ALFALFA
C. Candilejo, 1
BAR
954 222 344 baralfalfa@hotmail.com
When traveling to the locals’ hotspot in Sevilla, Plaza de Alfalfa, you might as well go to the Plaza’s namesake. While this small, wooden tavern keeps things traditional, offering only Spanish and Italian wines and liquors (sorry Tom Cruise, no cocktails) and specializing in classic brusquettas (locally made bread topped with different meat, seasoning, and vegetable combinations), it’s by no means outdated. If you’re willing to get adventurous and step out of the backpacker bubble to see what Sevilla’s 20-somethings are up to (or maybe use this for an early pregame), get ready to test out your Spanish, listen to the local music, and chat over a glass of vino.
Located right at the tip of Plaza Alfalfa, off C. Alfalfa. Drinks €1.60-€2.80, brusquetta €2.30-€2. 90. Open daily 9am-2:30am.
ANTIGUEDADES
Argote de Molina, 40
BAR
www.tapearensevilla.com
Stepping into Antiguedades, you may be a little confused as to whether you’re in a bar or a Halloween shop. With mannequins dressed as clowns draping the walls and fake bloodied hands and feet adorning the ceiling, let’s hope you’re a happy drunk who can get through the night without freaking out. And if the decor isn’t enough to get you on your toes, maybe the Spanish covers of ’80s American hits (Video le Mató la Estrella del Radio, anyone?), or mashups between classic Spanish songs and American hip hop will freak you out. The bar itself caters to a mix of mostly locals and some tourists, mostly popular for pre-dinner drinks around 5-9pm. While the cocktails are a bit pricey, they offer all the classics from mojitos to caipiriñas (a Barcelonian lemony, sweet drink). The pitcher of Sangria has a special splash of coconut rum and the perfect refreshing treat for 3-4 people to split.
From Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, take Placentines to Argote de Molina and the bar will be on your left. Drinks discounted from 5-9pm. Wine and beer €2. Cocktails €6. Pitchers €12. Open daily 5pm-3am.
La Macarena and West
La Macarena and the area further west may be the best place to set out for an evening in Sevilla. You’ll find everything from open patio dining to relaxed bars and classy clubs.
THEATRO ANTIQUE
C. Matematicas Rey Pastor y Castro s/n
CLUB
954 462 207 www.antiquetheatro.com
1200 square meters, a 1400 person capacity, 3 outdoor bars, and a swimming pool? We don’t want to get you all flustered with the math, but the full magnitude of Theatro Antique can’t even be comprehended without a visit. This upscale club is the place to see and be seen, catering to a few famous faces and thousands of trendsters looking for the snazziest evening around. You’ll hear the booming music from all the way across the river, putting some of the smaller clubs along the Torneo to shame. In the summer, take relaxation to a whole new level by sitting around the pool on the Aqua Antique patio in your personal cabana, hanging with friends and sipping your overpriced caipiriña (€8). Antique continues to outperform even with it’s schedule: it stays open so late that, upon leaving, you could stumble right over to a nearby breakfast joint for some churros con chocolate...and a giant cup of coffee.
From the Alameda, take C. Calatrava and cross the bridge; the club is on the left. Beer €4. Sangria €6. Mojitos and caipirinas €8. Open in summer Tu-Su midnight-7am; in winter Th-Sa midnight-7am.
BODEGA VIZCAÍNO
C. Feria 27
BAR, LOCALS
954 386 057
Even with only two guys behind the counter, Bodega Vizcaíno manages to cater to its overflowing, riotous clientele. Busiest with locals in their 20s and 30s around 9:30 pm, it’s still completely packed for an afternoon drink. Grab a cold beer (€1.10) or local wine (€1-1.30) served straight out of the barrels resting behind the bar, or try a local specialty, the Tinto de Verano, a fruity drink offered with your choice of white, organge, or lemon liqueur (€1.10). If you’re feeling really adventurous, don’t just snack on the complimentary green olives but order up some fresh, chilled bacalao like a local. Maybe you’ll impress a Sevillian or two.
Located near the intersection of C.Feria and C. Correduría. Beer €1.10. Wine €1-1.30. Open M-Sa 8am-11:30pm.
JACKSON
C. Relator 21
CLUB
From the front door, Jackson may not look like much—it lurks in a dark corner with a cheesy icon as a sign—but don’t pass judgement just yet. Walk down the slim hallway on any night of the week around 2am and you’ll find a packed dance floor lined with colorful, patterned walls (which change multiple times a year for the sake of variety) booming with ’80s funk. The bartenders joke about how the standard patron is what they describe as “pijippie,” a combination of pijos, or trendy fashionistas, and a free spirited hippie youth, between the ages of 20 and 35. While they must advertise that they close at 3am, locals describe their schedule as “11pm through the rest of the week.” So grab a beer (€2-3), and rely on that next morning’s latte to wake you up after a night of hip-shaking heaven.
Off to the far left corner of the Alameda from El Centro; the bar is on the left. Beer €2-3. Mixed drinks €6-7. Open daily 11:30pm-3am.
BOSQUE ANIMADO
Arias Montaro, 5
BAR
954 916 862
Escape the noisy, crowded patios of the Alameda and experience the relief of entering into this fairy-tale cave setting—and it’s GLBT-friendly to boot. The earth-toned walls, brass bar, and woody seating will provide you with a comfort and sense of secrecy that you haven’t experienced since you built pillow forts out of your living room cushions. With your cubata (€6) in hand, grab any seat at the bar aside from the one at the corner—it’s permanently occupied by a gnome statue, signature to Bosque Animado. Surrounded by a mix of 20- and 30-something tourists and locals, enjoy the mellow music early in the early evening, and hear the playlist shift to prep for the party around midnight. If you�
��re in town at the right time, definitely don’t miss Halloween in October and Carnivales in February.
Located on the left-hand side of a small street branching off the Alameda between C. Recreo and C. Santa Ana. Beer €1.50-2.50. Cocktails €6. Open daily 4pm-2am.
El Arenal and Triana
KUDÉTA CAFE CHILLOUT DISCOTECA (AKA BUDDHA)
Plaza de la Legión
CLUB
954 089 095 www.kudetasevilla.es
If you ask a local how to get to Kudéta, they’ll likely shrug their shoulders. But if you drop the name Buddha, you’ll get an immediate sly smirk—they’ve probably been there, and they’ve probably had some crazy nights. Kudéta is one of the largest clubs in all of Sevilla, packing its three stories so full that they even expand into the Centro Commercial during their busiest weekend hours. They know they’ll fill up, so they have no problem offering prices far higher than much of their competition. While the 1st floor remains pretty mellow (how can you not be mellow with pictures of Siddhartha on every wall and silky pillows and drapes everywhere?), offering hookah and a selection of wines and beers, things get rowdy on the upstairs dance floor and outdoor terrace. Thursday nights are reserved for enormous study-abroad student parties of about 1000 visitors, so you’ll probably fit in quite easily.