Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Located within the Centro Comercial de Plaza de Armas, in the portion closest to Av. de la Expiración. Bottles of beer €4. Cocktails €7.50. Open in summer daily 3pm-6am; in winter M-W 3pm-4am (only lounge open), Th-Sa 3pm-6am, Su 3pm-4am (only lounge open).
ISBILIYYA
Paseo de Cristobal Colon, 2
BAR, CLUB
954 210 460
With a canalfront terrace absolutely packed on any summer night and a booming dance floor all year round, Isbiliyya may be Sevilla’s greatest hotspot for GLBT nightlife. Cross the Puente de Triana and be welcomed by the friendly staff, as open and congenial as the crowds of locals (young and old) ready to meet and mingle. Enjoy the cafe during the evening, the bar a bit later (discounted drinks until 1am—beers are just €2 and mixed drinks €4), and the party until the early mornings. The combo of ‘80s dance and pop house music can’t be beat. Did we mention the pride of Isbiliyya—every night at 1:30am the bar holds a drag show on its main stage, bringing out some of the most colorful and creative costumes that this city has ever seen. Grab a caipirina or mojito (€3.50) and enjoy the music, dance, and maybe even return that wink you get from the guy singing in the spotlight.
Located on Paseo de Colon, right at the base of Puente de Triana. Beer €3. Cocktails €3.50. Open daily 8pm-4am. Drag show daily 1:30am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
As the capital of Andalucia, Sevilla attracts the best and brightest on the artisic and cultural scene. Sevilla’s got the money, the motivation, and the spirit of possibility flowing through the streets. Don’t just think you’re gonna find macarenas and castanets—Sevilla provides traditional flamenco, opera, dance, and performance, as well as a slew of avant-garde theaters and smaller concert halls to be enjoyed by young and old alike. The arts are by no means limited to velvet chairs and golf claps, though—scream your lungs out from the sidelines of a soccer match and try not to cover your eyes at the Plaza de Toros.
Theater
Theater culture in Sevilla caters to those looking for big, extravagant performances as well as smaller, private experiences. Apart from the listings below you can find indie and alternative concerts at Sala Fun Club (Alameda de Hercules, 86 954 218 064 www.funclubsevilla.com Th-Sa 9:30-10pm), or folk and blues shows at Cafe Lisboa (Alhóndiga 983 291 615 M-Sa 3pm-3am, Su 1pm-3am.) or El Hobbit. (C. Regina, 20 Shows around 10pm, Th Jazz, Sa Folk) If you want to catch a flick, Avenida 5 Cines (C. Marques de Paradas 15) shows international films with Spanish subtitles for €5.50, while Cinesa (Plaza de la Legion, 8 902 333 231) in the mall at Plaza de Armas, shows flicks dubbed in Spanish (€6.50) and even 3D movies (€9.50).
TEATRO LOPE DE VEGA
Av. María Luisa s/n
SANTA CRUZ
955 472 828 www.teatrolopedevega.org
Teatro Lope de Vega is the main theatrical stage in all of Sevilla, and it fits any stereotype you’d hold of a classic theater—red velvet chairs and curtains with golden trim. Run and orchestrated by the city government, this theater is located just behind the Universidad de Sevilla. Shows usually start around 9pm; depending on the performance, tickets can range from €4 to €45.
Located off Parque Maria Luisa near the Universidad and the Plaza de España. Tickets €4-45. Box office open Tu-Sa 11am-2pm and 6-9pm, Su 11am-2pm.
TEATRO DE LA MAESTRANZA
Paseo de Colon 22
ARENAL
954 223 344 www.teatromaestranza.com
Teatro de la Mestranza holds operas, flamenco shows, and dance and piano recitals for a classier, more formal crowd. Don’t be troubled by the statue of the non-Spanish Mozart out front—the theater is merely thanking him for including the city of Sevilla in his Marriage of Figueroa through the character Barbaro.
Located right next to the Plaza de Torros on Paseo de Colon. Tickets €17-39. Open Th-F 8:30pm.
Flamenco
TARDES DE FLAMENCO EN LA CASA DE LA MEMORIA
C. Ximenez de Enciso 28
SANTA CRUZ
954 560 670 www.casadelamemoria.es
Hidden away in a small, tented garden plaza, Tardes de Flamenco knows how to set the scene and pack the house. The show is performed by four artists, all of whom couldn’t be older than 25. Try not to scrape your chin on the floor when your jaw drops—these kids know their stuff. Running through two centuries of flamenco, they layer on the components, starting with just a guitar before adding in the male and female dancers one at a time. The dancers aren’t the only ones getting their heart rate up—you’ll get so sucked into the drama that you’ll feel your chest pounding. Hands down the best deal for classic flamenco around. Buy tickets in advance and arrive at least 30min. early, as every show tends to sell out.
C. Ximenez crosses C. Santa Maria la Blanca and extends into Plaza Alianza, right in between the Alcazar and Convento de la Encarnacion. €15, students €13. Daily shows at 9pm and 10:30pm. Arrive at least 30min. early to get a seat.
TABLAO EL ARENAL
C. Rono, 7
ARENAL
954 216 492 www.tablaoarenal.com
Tablao de Arenal requires an investment of time and money but has been rumored to host the very best classic Flamenco in town. If you don’t want to take our word for it, even the New York Times called it the best place in the world to experience flamenco. The show goes for about two hours and the prices range from €37-€72 depending on how much you want to be eating and drinking with the performance.
Between the bullring and Hospital de Caridad. Show and 1 drink €37. Show with tapas, drink, and dessert €59. Show with full dinner €72. Shows daily 8pm and 10pm.
EL PATIO SEVILLANO
Paseo de Cristobal Colón, 11A
ARENAL
954 214 120 www.elpatiosevillano.com
One of the oldest flamenco bars in town, El Patio Sevillano provides another classic Flamenco performance with a meal included at a steep price. Compared to Tablao de Arenal (whose prices are about the same), you’re getting a shorter show (1½hr.) at a less famous establishment. That said, the colorful, cool, underground tiled dining room does set the tone for some traditional Spanish culture.
On Cristobal Colón, only meters from the bull ring. Show €37. Show with tapas €59. Show with full dinner €70. Shows daily at 7pm and 9:30pm.
Festivals
SEMANA SANTA
SPRING
www.semana-santa.org
Semana Santa, or Holy Week, is the annual period between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday, and thus the last week of Lent. During these seven days, all 57 religious brotherhoods of the city adorn hooded robes and guide two candlelit floats honoring Jesus and the Virgin Mary along the tiny, winding Sevillian streets.
the botellón
The al fresco method of Spanish socializing, the botellón has lately gotten a lot of negative attention from older generations of Spaniards. The word basically means a giant, public pregame, in which the youths of Spain buy cheap alcohol, bags of ice, and plastic cups and then drink in the street. Many people believe the tradition arose because of the steep drink prices in bars and the former lack of real open container laws in Spain. However, another possible cause is the Spanish custom of not inviting guests over to the home just to get wasted, which does seem to make pregaming a necessarily public activity. However, the botellón’s noisiness and (some would say) moral questionability have led the government to take extreme measures: some cities have considered passing laws forbidding any drink to be consumed in the street.
As they make their way to the Catedral, they grab the attention of around one million spectators year after year. You don’t need to be a religious person to be awed by the history and picturesque spectacle that is Semana Santa. Hotels and hostels fill far in advance but are slightly less busy if you come during the first portion of the week, as Semana Santa culminates on Good Friday. If you’re going to stay for the end of the week, you may also consider extending your trip until Feria de Abril (below)—you may be due for the shift from pious patron to
partier. The tourist offices of the city are well-equipped to answer any questions about accommodations and dining during this busy time in Sevilla. You can also visit the museum at the Basílica La Macarena to learn more about the history of Semana Santa. (C. Becker 1, 3 954 901 800 www.hermandaddelamacarena.es)
FERIA DE ABRIL
Los Remedios District of Sevilla
www.feriadesevilla.andalunet.com
Following the holy week of Semana Santa each year, Feria de Abril is the time for Sevilla to let its hair down and celebrate its rich culture and history. Started in 1847 as a cattle-trade expo in the Prado de San Sebastian, this week of festivities has made great strides ever since—the Feria today takes up one million sq. m of Sevillian territory! The celebrations take place in three main parts: the 15-block Real de la Feria, the colorful amusement park at Calle de Infierno, and the main entrance, or Posada. The Real is the heart of the Feria—the asphalt is covered in golden sand to match the bull ring, the sidewalks are lined with casetas, (canvas houses where you can spend the week drinking and eating with friends and family), and horse-drawn carriages and flamenco dancers pass through the streets. Each day, six bulls are set into the ring at Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza to face off against the most famous matadors Spain has to offer. Tickets go way in advance, so call the office for reservations. (954 210 315)
From the moment thousands of Chinese-style lanters light up the city in unison at midnight of the first night to when Sevilla cuts to black at the closing of the festivities at midnight on the last night, you are in for quite the treat. As far as suggestions for rooms, turn to the information offices throughout the city or the kiosks located on the Feria grounds. Special, direct buses run from the Prado and Charco de la Pava to the Real, and the C1, C2, and 41 bus lines stay running throughout the day (€1.50). Both ends of Metro Line 1 are located smack in the middle of the excitement.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The Centro de Información de Sevilla Laredo has extensive information for tourists in Sevilla. (Pl. de San Francisco, 19 954 595 288 www.sevilla.org/turismo Open M-F 9am-7:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm.) Turnismo de la Provincia also has tourist information and gives out special discounts at some of the newer and more popular restaurants in the area. (Pl. del Turinfo, 1-3 954 210 005 www.tourismosevilla.org Open daily 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm.)
• LAUNDROMAT: Vera Tintoreria provides self-service wash and dry at two different locations. (954 534 495 for Aceituna 6; 954 541 148 for Menendez Pelayo, 11. Wash and dry €10. Open M-F 9:30am-2pm and 5:30-8pm, Sa 10am-1:30pm.)
• INTERNET: Internetia internet cafes offer Wi-Fi and computers. (Menendez Pelayo 43-45 954 534 003 €2.20 per hr.)
• POST OFFICE: The main post office has a bank and also helps with international cell phones. (Av. de la Constitución 32 902 197 197 www.correos.es.)
Getting There
By Train
To get to Sevilla, your best option is to hop on a train. The main train station, Estación Santa Justa (Av. de Kansas City 902 240 202) offers luggage storage, car rentals, and an ATM. You can catch a train from the airport in Madrid to Sevilla via the AVE train ( €80.70. 2½hr., every 30min. daily 6:15am-11pm.) or the Alvia train ( €63.30. 2hr. 45 min., 2 per day).
By Bus
Take the C-1 bus to Prado de San Sebastian to get to the city center. If traveling by bus from the Estación Prado de San Sebastian, there are three major lines from which to choose: Los Amarillos (902 210 317 www.touristbuses.es), Alsina Graells (902 422 242 www.alsa.es), and Transportes Comes (902 199 208 www.tgcomes.es).Estación Prado de San Sebastian also happens to be a stop on the city metro, a major local bus stop, and a tram stop. To purchase tickets to leave the city from the Estacion Prado, look for salesmen under yellow archways, behind the hustle and bustle of all the local buses on the street. The other major bus station in the southern part of the city, the Estación Plaza de Armas, receives every bus from Portugal and sends buses going to Valencia, Salamanca, Leon, and Asturias.
Getting Around
As far as getting around Sevilla goes, the only major restriction to walking is the temperature. The region itself is not very large and is easily manageable on foot. That being said, the city is well-equipped with buses, trams, a Metro line, and bike rentals. If you’re not willing to withstand the heat (especially in those summer months), grab yourself a cold Fanta and hop on some public transit.
By Train
For booking regional travel by train, contact Alsa (902 422 242 www.alsa.es) or Damas (954 907 737 www.damas-sa.es).
By Bus
The Tussam buses blanket the city. ( €1.20.) The C-3 and C-4 buses, running every 10 min., are particularly helpful, as they circle the border of the city clockwise and counterclockwise, respectively.
By Metro
The Metro is also extremely useful. Metro Line 1 ( One-way €1.30, day pass €4.50. M-Th 6:30am-11pm, F 6:30am-2am, Sa 7:30am-2am, Su 7:30am-11pm.) ends in Ciudad Expo and Olivar de Quintos, making stops in Prado de San Sebastian, San Bernardo, Gran Plaza, and Parque de los Principales.
By Bike
As far as biking goes, you’ll quickly notice that the locals are all about this mode of transport. You’ll find lines of Sevici (www.sevici.es) bicycles around the city. Set up a year-long ( €10.) or week-long ( €5.) subscription at any kiosk with your credit card.
By Taxi
If you do decide to call a cab, Radio Taxi (954 580 000) and Tele Taxi (954 622 222) are the two lines recommended by city officials.
burgos
947
Burgos (pop. 180,000) has one of the most spectacular city entrances anywhere, and this breathtaking first impression accurately introduces this northern gem. After walking through the large and ornate Arco de Santa María to the mind-bogglingly massive Catedral on the Pl. del Rey San Fernando, it doesn’t take much imagination to understand why this was a favorite seat and burial place of Castilian and Leonese royalty. Though the Catedral is undoubtedly Burgos’s centerpiece, the city is filled with dozens of other churches, from the 9th-century Castillo up the hill to the medieval monasteries on the city’s outskirts. In the evening, plazas fill with friends and families enjoying their paseos, and as the clock strikes midnight they buzz with partiers on their way to the bars along the Camino de Santiago and the discotecas in the shadow of the Catedral.
ORIENTATION
Burgos is a simple city, but the streets run in ridiculously complicated directions. Before traversing this area, pick up a map from the tourist office. The bus station, post office, Museo de Burgos, and Monasterio de las Huelgas are pretty much the only important things south of the east-west-running Río Arlanzón. Most of the centro histórico is to the north of the river, with the Catedral on the west end, the Castillo up the hill to the north, and various winding streets and magnificent, open plazas throughout the city. The Plaza de España, a hub for most city buses, is east of the centro, and the train station is outside of the city to the northeast.
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOSTAL CARRALES
C. Puente Gasset, 4
HOSTAL
947 20 59 16 www.hostalcarrales.com
A couple of blocks from the centro histórico and about 15min. on foot from the bus station, this quiet hostal has basic rooms, full baths, and a very affectionate cat who lives in the reception (on a different floor from the rooms, allergy sufferers).
Just on the north side of the river, between C. de Vitoria and Av. del Arlanzón, 4 blocks east of Pl. del Cid. Private baths available. Singles €25-40; doubles €35-50. Reception 8am-11pm.
CAMPING FUENTES BLANCAS
Ctra. Burgos-Cartuja de Miraflores, Km. 3.5
CAMPING
947 48 60 16 www.campingburgos.com
Located in the Fuentes Blancas park a 10min. bus ride from the centro, Camping Fuentes Blancas is a beautiful municipal campsite. Campers can save money with this cheaper overnight option, and outdoorsy backpackers can expl
ore the many hiking trails—they can even walk here along a scenic river from Burgos itself.
#27 bus leaves from northwest side of Pl. de España and runs to Fuentes Blancas (“Camping” stop). 4 per day 9:30am-7:15pm, returns to Pl. de España 4 per day 9:45am-7:30pm. #26 bus runs Jun 29-Aug 31 and leaves from the same stop, 10 per day 11am-9pm, returns to Pl. de España 10 per day 11:15am-9:15pm. Shop, restaurant, bar, lounge, pool, beach, mini-golf (€4), common showers. €4.65 per person, ages 2-10 €3.20, €3.72-7.55 per tent, €4.65 per car. Electricity €4. Bungalows with private bath €35-85. Open in summer daily 7am-midnight; in winter 8am-11pm.