The Purple Land

by W. H. Hudson

  CHAPTER XII

  Before leaving the magistrate's _estancia_ I had made up my mind toreturn by the shortest route, and as quickly as possible, to Montevideo;and that morning, mounted on a well-rested horse, I covered a great dealof ground. By twelve o'clock, when I stopped to rest my horse and getsome refreshment at a wayside _pulperia_, I had got over about eightleagues. This was travelling at an imprudent pace, of course; but in theBanda Oriental it is so easy to pick up a fresh horse that one becomessomewhat reckless. My journey that morning had taken me over the easternportion of the Durazno district, and I was everywhere charmed with thebeauty of the country, though it was still very dry, the grass on thehigher lands being burnt to various shades of yellow and brown. Now,however, the summer heats were over, for the time was near the end ofFebruary; the temperature, without being oppressive, was deliciouslywarm, so that travelling on horseback was delightful. I might filldozens of pages with descriptions of pretty bits of country I passedthat day, but must plead guilty of an unconquerable aversion to thiskind of writing. After this candid confession, I hope the reader willnot quarrel with me for the omission; besides, anyone who cares forthese things, and knows how evanescent are the impressions left by wordpictures on the mind, can sail the seas and gallop round the worldto see them all for himself. It is not, however, every wanderer fromEngland--I blush while saying it--who can make himself familiar with thehome habits, the ways of thought and speech, of a distant people. Bid mediscourse of lowly valley, lofty height, of barren waste, shady wood,or cooling stream where I have drunk and been refreshed; but all theseplaces, pleasant or dreary, must be in the kingdom called the heart.

  After getting some information about the country I had to traverse fromthe _pulpero_, who told me that I would probably reach the RiverYi before evening, I resumed my journey. About four o'clock in theafternoon I came to an extensive wood of thorn-trees, of which the_pulpero_ had spoken, and, in accordance with his instructions, Iskirted it on the eastern side. The trees were not large, but there wasan engaging wildness about this forest, full of the musical chatter ofbirds, which tempted me to alight from my horse and rest for an hour inthe shade. Taking the bit from his mouth to let him feed, I threw myselfdown on the dry grass under a clump of shady thorns, and for halfan hour watched the sparkling sunlight falling through the foliageoverhead, and listened to the feathered people that came about me,loudly chirping, apparently curious to know what object had brought meto their haunts. Then I began to think of all the people I had recentlymixed with: the angry magistrate and his fat wife--horrid woman!--andMarcos Marco, that shabby rascal, rose up before me to pass quicklyaway, and once more I was face to face with that lovely mysteryMargarita. In imagination I put forth my hands to take hers, anddrew her towards me so as to look more closely into her eyes, vainlyquestioning them as to their pure sapphire hue. Then I imagined ordreamt that with trembling fingers I unbraided her hair to let it falllike a splendid golden mantle over her mean dress, and asked her howshe came to possess that garment of glory. The sweet, grave, child lipssmiled, but returned no answer. Then a shadowy face seemed to shapeitself dimly against the green curtain of foliage, and, looking overthe fair girl's shoulder, gaze sadly into my eyes. It was the face ofPaquita. Ah, sweet wife, never let the green-eyed monster trouble thepeace of your heart! Know that the practical Saxon mind of yourhusband is puzzling itself over a purely scientific problem, that thissurpassingly fair child interests me only because her fairness seems toupset all physiological laws. I was, in fact, just sinking to sleepat this moment when the shrill note of a trumpet blown close by andfollowed by loud shouts from several voices made me spring instantly tomy feet. A storm of answering shouts came from another quarter of thewood, then followed profound silence. Presently the trumpet soundedagain, making me feel very much alarmed. My first impulse was to springon to my horse and ride away for dear life; but, on second thoughts, Iconcluded that it would be safer to remain concealed amongst the trees,as by leaving them I should only reveal myself to the robbers or rebels,or whatever they were. I bridled my horse so as to be ready to run, thendrew him into a close thicket of dark-foliaged bushes and fastened himthere. The silence that had fallen on the wood continued, and at last,unable to bear the suspense longer, I began to make my way cautiously,revolver in hand, towards the point the sounds had proceeded from.Stealing softly through the bushes and trees where they grew neartogether, I came at length in sight of an open piece of ground, abouttwo or three hundred yards wide, and overgrown with grass. Near itsborder on one side I was amazed to see a group of about a dozen boys,their ages ranging from about ten to fifteen, all standing perfectlymotionless. One of them held a trumpet in his hand, and they all worered handkerchiefs or rags tied round their heads. Suddenly, while Icrouched amongst the leafage watching them, a shrill note sounded fromthe opposite side of the open space, and another troop of boys wearingwhite on their heads burst from the trees and advanced with loud shoutsof _vivas_ and _mueras_ towards the middle of the ground. Again the redheads sounded their trumpet, and went out boldly to meet the new-comers.As the two bands approached each other, each led by a big boy, whoturned at intervals and with many wild gestures addressed his followers,apparently to encourage them, I was amazed to see them all suddenlydraw out long knives, such as the native horsemen usually wear, andrush furiously together. In a moment they were mingled together in adesperate fight, uttering the most horrible yells, their long weaponsglittering in the sunshine as they brandished them about. With such furydid they fight that in a few moments all the combatants lay stretchedout on the grass, excepting three boys wearing the red badges. One ofthese bloodthirsty young miscreants then snatched up the trumpet andblew a victorious blast, while the other two shrieked an accompanimentof _vivas_ and _mueras_. While they were thus occupied one of thewhite-headed boys struggled to his feet, and, snatching up a knife,charged the three reds with desperate courage. Had I not been perfectlyparalysed with amazement at what I had witnessed, I should then haverushed out to aid this boy in his forlorn attempt; but in an instant histhree foes were on him and dragged him down to the ground. Two of themthen held him fast by the legs and arms, the other raised his longknife, and was just about to plunge it in the struggling captive'sbreast, when, uttering a loud yell, I sprang up and rushed at them.Instantly they started up and fled screaming towards the trees in thegreatest terror; and then, most wonderful thing of all, the dead boysall came to life, and, springing to their feet, fled from me after theothers. This brought me to a stand, when, seeing that one of the boyslimped painfully after his companions, hopping on one leg, I made asudden dash and captured him before he could reach the shelter of thetrees.

  "Oh, senor, do not kill me!" he pleaded, bursting into tears.

  "I have no wish to kill you, you unspeakable young miscreant, but Ithink I ought to thrash you," I answered, for, though greatly relievedat the turn things had taken, I was excessively annoyed at havingexperienced all those sensations of blood-curdling horror for nothing.

  "We were only playing at Whites and Reds," he pleaded.

  I then made him sit down and tell me all about this singular game.

  None of the boys lived very near, he said; some of them came a distanceof several leagues, and they had selected this locality for their sportson account of its seclusion, for they did not like to be found out.Their game was a mimic war of Whites and Reds, manoeuvres, surprises,skirmishes, throat-cutting, and all.

  I pitied the young patriot at the last, for he had sprained his anklebadly and could scarcely walk, and so assisted him to the spot wherehis horse was hidden; then, having helped him to mount and given him acigarette, for which he had the impudence to ask me, I laughingly badehim good-bye. I went back to look for my own horse after that, beginningto feel very much amused at the whole thing; but, alas! my steed wasgone. The young scoundrels had stolen him, to revenge themselves on me,I suppose, for disturbing them; and to relieve me from all doubt in thematter they left two bits of rag, one white and the othe
r red, attachedto the branch I had fastened the bridle to. For some time I wanderedabout the wood, and even shouted aloud in the wild hope that the youngfiends were not going to carry things so far as to leave me withouta horse in that solitary place. Nothing could I see or hear of them,however, and as it was getting late and I wasbecoming desperately hungryand thirsty, I resolved to go in search of some habitation.

  On emerging from the forest I found the adjacent plain covered withcattle quietly grazing. Any attempt to pass through the herd would havebeen almost certain death, as these more than half-wild beasts willalways take revenge on their master man when they catch him dismountedin the open. As they were coming up from the direction of the river, andwere slowly grazing past the wood, I resolved to wait for them to passon before leaving my concealment. I sat down and tried to be patient,but the brutes were in no hurry, and went on skirting the wood at asnail's pace. It was about six o'clock before the last stragglers hadleft, and then I ventured out from my hiding-place, hungry as a wolf andafraid of being overtaken by night before finding any human habitation.I had left the trees half a mile behind me, and was walking hurriedlyalong towards the valley of the Yi, when, passing over a hillock,I suddenly found myself in sight of a bull resting on the grass andquietly chewing his cud. Unfortunately the brute saw me at the samemoment and immediately stood up. He was, I think, about three or fouryears old, and a bull of that age is even more dangerous than an olderone; for he is quite as truculent as the other and far more active.There was no refuge of any kind near, and I knew very well that toattempt to escape by running would only increase my danger, so aftergazing at him for a few moments I assumed an easy, unconcerned mannerand walked on; but he was not going to be taken in that way, and beganto follow me. Then for the first, and I devoutly hope for the last, timein my life I was compelled to resort to the gaucho plan, and, castingmyself face downwards on the earth, lay there simulating death. It isa miserable, dangerous expedient, but, in the circumstances I foundmyself, the only one offering a chance of escape from a very terribledeath. In a few moments I heard his heavy tramp, then felt him sniffingme all over. After that he tried unsuccessfully to roll me over, inorder to study my face, I suppose. It was horrible to endure theprods he gave me and lie still, but after a while he grew quieter, andcontented himself by simply keeping guard over me; occasionally smellingat my head, then turning round to smell at my heels. Probably his theorywas, if he had one, that I had fainted with fear at the sight of him andwould recover presently, but he was not quite sure at which end of mereturning life would first show itself. About once in every five or sixminutes he seemed to get impatient, and then he would paw me with hisheavy hoof, uttering a low, hoarse moaning, spattering me with frothfrom his mouth; but as he showed no disposition to leave, I at lastresolved to try a very bold experiment, for my position was becomingunendurable. I waited till the brute's head was turned from me, thenworked my hand cautiously down to my revolver; but before I had quitedrawn it, he noticed the movement and wheeled swiftly round, kicking mylegs as he did so. Just as he brought his head round close to mine, Idischarged the weapon in his face, and the sudden explosion so terrifiedhim that he turned tail and fled, never pausing in his lumbering galloptill he was out of sight. It was a glorious victory; and though I couldscarcely stand on my legs at first, so stiff and bruised did I feel allover, I laughed with joy, and even sent another bullet whizzing afterthe retreating monster, accompanying the discharge with a wild yell oftriumph.

  After that I proceeded without further interruption on my walk, and, hadI not felt so ravenously hungry and so sore where the bull had trodon me or prodded me with his horns, the walk would have been veryenjoyable, for I was now approaching the Yi. The ground grew moist andgreen, and flowers abounded, many of them new to me, and so lovely andfragrant that in my admiration for them I almost forgot my pain. Thesun went down, but no house appeared in sight. Over the western heavensflamed the brilliant hues of the afterglow, and from the long grass camethe sad, monotonous trill of some night insect. Troops of hoodedgulls flew by me on their way from their feeding grounds to the water,uttering their long, hoarse, laughter-like cries. How buoyant and happythey seemed, flying with their stomachs full to their rest; while I,dismounted and supperless, dragged painfully on like a gull that hadbeen left behind with a broken wing. Presently, through the purple andsaffron-hued vapours in the western sky, the evening star appeared,large and luminous, the herald of swift-coming darkness; andthen--weary, bruised, hungry, baffled, and despondent--I sat down tomeditate on my forlorn position.